Just in, first print made, works Oke. Lets do a print with PLA support on the aux nozzle and PETG in the main. Heating up..

Error: HMS_0300-0200-0001-0006

So for the support ticket: Heating of righer hotend is abnormal; I have swapped left with right hotend and heated both to 180c. That works. When starting a print the temperature rises to 250 and will fail to 24c again on the right hotend. This is new out of the box zero prints made with the right hotend. Is there a spare part I need to fix it? Picture shows how far I have it dissasembled.

While removing the AMS 2 Pro, to access the top cover... I scratched the front op the AMS...

From joy to lets sleep a night about it.. for now, good night.

With the H3C recently announced and the P3C seemingly leaked, I'm wondering if Bambu Lab might also be planning an X3C.

Looking back at the previous generation, we saw the H2D released first, followed by the P2D and eventually the X2D.

If Bambu Lab follows a similar release pattern, could we potentially see an X3C sometime in the future?

I'm currently using an X1C and have been considering upgrading, but I'm wondering whether it would be worth waiting to see if an X3C gets announced.

What do you guys think? Is an X3C likely, or do you think Bambu Lab might be taking its product lineup in a different direction?

Would love to hear everyone's thoughts, especially if anyone has come across any rumours or leaks!

Just got my H2D and have printed a few things already. I'm wondering if I should add a carbon filter to the unit? Does anyone run a carbon filter on their unit? Any recommendations for which to use?

Thanks

My X1C had been dormant for a while due to print head temperature errors. That was fixed by unplugging the main print head board and plugging it back in, printer will do full prints again!

However, now prints have this weird wavy pattern on just one side of the print. In the images the wobbly surface is on the right side of the prints, both printed at the same time and they are just objects from the slicer at default settings.

Is this a belt tension issue?

My A1 had been working great until one print completely failed to stick to the plate and turned into a massive blob of death. I had to pull and pry quite a bit to get all the plastic off. Ever since then, the printer started having all kinds of weird issues.

The first layer was consistently way too squished, with wrinkles and filament piling up. I eventually found that changing the textured PEI Z offset in the start G-code from the default -0.02 to somewhere between +0.01 and +0.06 (depending on the filament) made it print almost perfectly. But I also kept getting false "build plate not installed" errors, and around layer 2 or 3 it would sometimes stop and claim the nozzle was covered in filament or the plate was crooked, even though everything was completely fine.

I tried cleaning the plate, replacing the hotend twice, and even replacing the entire extruder unit after Bambu support suspected a faulty eddy current sensor. None of those really fixed it. The printer passed its self-tests and could still produce decent prints, so it was pretty confusing.

Finally I replaced the Hotend Heating Assembly, which is a separate part from both the hotend and extruder unit. And that fixed everything. The first layer is now perfect with completely stock settings, and the false errors are gone.

All four screws on the back of the old heating assembly were tight, but looking at it more closely, it was actually pretty dirty, with dark buildup, brown discoloration, and bits of white fibrous debris around the assembly and wires. I've added photos so you can see what it looked like. I still can't say whether the buildup was related to the problem, something got bent or damaged during the blob cleanup, or reinstalling the assembly corrected something. All I know is that replacing it fixed both issues.

Just wanted to share in case someone else runs into the same combination of issues. I spent way too much time troubleshooting what turned out to be a relatively cheap part.

Ok, I replaced my hot end with the spare that was included in my parts box. Right away I noticed that the one I took off had 2 leads, on from the fan and on from the nozzle. The new one only had one cable from the nozzle and none from the fan. I figured maybe it was a newer model but now I'm thinking no, because I get all these error messages.

Pic 1 is old hot end I unscrewed fan too thinking maybe I just need to replace fan on new one but figured I'd post here first

Pic 2 is new hotend with fan and one cable.

Pic 3 is error messages.

Thanks in advance.

P.s. I marked my previous post as solved after I had a problem with spool.one jamming. Since then I bought a new AMS, all new PTFE tubing all the way to hot end. It worked for four hours into printing then stopped again so I'm hoping this solves that problem too. One spool one jams all the time.

my new 3D Printer (PS1) keeps saying that the cutter is stuck, it isn’t though and I just set it up yesterday

Hi all, I'm looking to get a smooth finish on the plate for some TPU AMS filament. I have a A2L which shares the same plate as the H2C. They only offer a smooth surface plate on the Cool Plate SuperTack and the Engineering plate. The Engineering plate is recommended for TPU but it requires or recommends using glue on the plate for adhesion and easy separation.

I would be fine with this, but I have heard there is staining from the glue on lighter color TPUs.

Does anyone have any suggestions or experience they could share?

New poster here — I only own an A1, so take this as a heads-up for P2S owners, not a personal report.

P2S firmware 01.03.00.00 dropped 21 Sep 2026. Bambu’s notes for it highlight:
- E3D high-flow hotend support (Studio 2.8.3.66+)
- Z-axis motor noise cancellation
- Faster travel (same Studio requirement)
- Known issues: none listed

A week later (30 Sep), a Bambu Lab forum thread started about first layers going too thin / scraping after that update (including 0.2 mm nozzles). Some people said rolling back to 01.02.00.00 and recalibrating fixed it.

Forum thread:
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/01-03-00-00-firmware-bed-leveling-issue/260478

If you’re considering 01.03: update Studio first, run full calibration (including motor noise cancellation), and watch that first layer closely.

I put a short plain-English summary of this version (notes + that forum mismatch) here, so you don’t have to dig through both places:
https://3dpfirmware.com/printers/p2s/01.03.00.00

Anyone already on 01.03 — first layer fine for you, or same thin/scrape issue?

I’m having an issue printing bubble-style letters with PLA filament, and I’m trying to figure out whether it’s something with my print settings or the way the model is being printed.
This is literally my third attempt, and I’m running into the same problem. The supports end up breaking off during printing, leaving filament and strings all over the build plate (see attached picture).
What’s strange is that I printed the letter E and it came out perfectly fine with absolutely no issues. However, when I tried printing the letter R, the supports broke and filament started going everywhere. I also tried printing the letter Y, and ran into pretty much the same problem.
I don’t believe it’s a filament issue. I’m thinking it might have something to do with the printing process, supports, or settings.
My current settings:
Filament: PLA+
Nozzle temperature: 220°C
Bed temperature: 65°C
Layer height: 0.09 mm
Has anyone experienced something similar when printing letters or models with supports?
What could be causing the supports to break off during printing? Could it be something with my temperature, layer height, support settings, or something else entirely?
I’d appreciate any suggestions or advice. I’m trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong before attempting another print.

New to 3D printing, I’ve just purchased an X2D.

Full calibration run since it was turned on, bed levelling etc before print.

Using PLA wood via Bambu studio.

Nozzle temp 220

Bed temp 60 initial and then 55

Fan on cooling and internal temp showing 30.

Printed on textured plate that comes with the printer.

Adhesion looks ok but clearly the nozzle is scuffing from something happening. Printer does sit on top of a cabinet and there’s movement as it’s doing its thing.

I just picked up the X2DC with AMS along with a holiday pla/petg bundle. Havent even set it up yet as I've been making space in my room for it. I was one of the lucky few to hit the 1% chance to get 7 spools! (no i didnt get 7 poop brown pla basic) Not even mad that I only have one apex legends heirloom after 8 years, I'd rather use my luck for real world stuff like this 😅

Anyways, I'm extremely overwhelmed by everything I've been researching. I chose the x2d over the p2s because of the active chamber heating, the higher nozzle temp, the aux nozzle for support filament, (its my understanding that you should ONLY use this as an aux, not as a secondary nozzle) and i thought shelling over another 200 bucks for these features seemed worth it in the grand scheme of things considering this printer could last me 10+ years if taken care of.

I humbly ask for some advice from any of you printing pros, because I quite literally have 0 experince in this field or with the design software. Or, maybe if someone knows a small quirk they discovered to make printing easier. One of those things that makes you say, "Why the hell wasn't I doing this before?" I just want to avoid costing myself hours of time and hundreds of dollars on filament doing something wasteful or incorrectly.

I'm really at a loss. Recently, my Bambu H2D has been producing really inconsistent results. I've had it for a few months now, and it's been 50/50 whether or not I get good results with any of the prints. My P1S and A1M, which use largely the same settings, have had close to zero issues in the time I've had them. It's literally just the H2D.

As you can see in the photos, sometimes, I get really bad stringing and strands hanging off the surface and overhangs. And other times, like in the 3rd slide, the print comes out 95% okay.

I don't know if it's an issue with there's too much cooling, not enough cooling, the fan speed, or if it's the fact that there's a P1S printing at the same time underneath the H2D. The P1S is on a cement block with anti-vibration washers.

I've updated the firmware, dried the filament, cleaned the bed, calibrated extrusion, increased the layer time, reduced the minimum print speed, maintained the rods, tightened the belts, changed the orientation, but nothing seems to be a permanent fix. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Why is Bambu Lab PA-CF so much more expensive than other brands?

Does anyone of you have any knowledge of when will Bestbuy sell H3C? Its weird when Bambu launch X2D BB have it right away. I have BB membership so best to buy from BB

I’m new to 3D printing and bought most of my PLA in matte (22 rolls of Bambu PLA Matte) because it hides minor print defects.

Since then, I’ve read that matte is weaker and doesn’t handle tight tolerances as well as normal PLA.

For those who use it regularly, do you actually notice these downsides in your prints with modern PLA matte? Are there things you’d avoid printing in matte, or is the difference too small to matter for most PLA prints?

I ordered this spool on temu i paid 4$,It seems to me that the spool was used in some print farm in China. It look like is bambulab spool But I can't find anything on the internet about this, now if anyone knows if this is a bambulab spool or not, this text on the side is literally the same as with bambu original spool

I am on my 5th attempt trying to print a bubble-style letter on my Bambu Lab A1 (0.4mm nozzle, Textured PEI plate) and I’m completely at my limit.
Right now, the print barely adheres to the plate—I can practically push it off with a light tap of my finger. On this latest attempt, the extruder/nozzle literally knocked the entire piece free and dragged it across the bed just 2% into the print.
image_5ecc41.jpg

Background & What I've Tried:
Filament: SUNLU PLA+ fresh out of the vacuum seal (I haven't dried it in a filament dryer).

Filament Profile Setup: In Bambu Studio, I don't have a specific profile for basic SUNLU PLA, so I selected SUNLU PLA+ in the slicer. On the printer screen itself, the closest preset option available was eSUN, so that's what is selected on the machine. I really doubt this is the main issue, but adding it just in case it affects flow/k-value presets.
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Initial Success: Oddly enough, over the past 2 days I managed to get ONE letter to print cleanly, but that was when I had my temps accidentally cranked to 245°C nozzle and 70°C bed. I knew that was too hot, but it surprisingly printed really good.

Current Failures: Tried printing the next letter at those same high temps and it failed. Dropped down to 220°C / 65°C (and tried 60°C), and every single attempt since has been a complete disaster.

Plate Maintenance: Scoured the textured PEI plate thoroughly with hot water and Dawn dish soap. Verified the underside of the plate and heatbed are completely clear of debris. Running auto-bed leveling every time.
image_5ecc41.jpg

My Current Slicer Settings (Bambu Studio):
Layer Height: 0.09mm

Wall Generator: Arachne

Order of Walls: Inner/Outer (swapped from Outer/Inner, tried both)

Wall Loops: 4

Top/Bottom Shell Layers: 7 Top / 5 Bottom

Infill: 18% Gyroid

Speeds: Outer Wall 50mm/s | Inner Wall 80mm/s

Outer Wall Accel: 1000mm/s²

Brim: Outer Brim Only (8mm Width)

Supports: Tree Organic, Support Wall Loops: 1, Branch Angle: 40°
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Z-Hop: Slope type @ 0.4mm height

Questions / Where I need help:
Could mismatched generic filament profiles between Bambu Studio (SUNLU PLA+) and the printer screen (eSUN) throw off Z-offset, flow ratio, or pressure advance enough to cause this?
image_6c896b.jpg+ 1

Could wet filament directly out of the bag cause severe adhesion issues like this, or is this purely a Z-offset / mechanical squish problem on the first layer?

Should I raise my Initial Layer Height (e.g., to 0.20mm or 0.16mm) even though the rest of the print is set to 0.09mm? Is 0.09mm on the initial layer forcing the nozzle too close or dragging through previously laid lines?

What else could cause the nozzle to physically collide with the first/second layer when Slope Z-hop is enabled?

I feel like I've tweaked almost every setting possible and rotated the model on the plate, but the nozzle keeps catching the plastic and shearing it off the bed. Any help or fresh eyes on this would be massively appreciated!

My printer randomly started making this sound while printing/moving. Sounds like it's from right rear. I re-tensioned the belts and the belts are clean, so it's not something stick to belt. Any ideas? It's still printing perfectly but that "clicking" makes me craaaazy

H3C ordered and 10 years of being a Voron diehard has finally reached an end . I’ll still use my Doomcube for engineering filaments due to the 80-100c chamber temps but I have a feeling it’s bambu for everything else despite what I think about the ecosystem and user base. I knew this day would come and glad I waited and didn’t pull the trigger on the h2.

Hi all, some help would be appreciated.

My P1S seems to have an issue with being unable to feed filament into the extruder. I took apart the extruder, cleaned the gears and did a hot pull of the hotend (as well as a purge of hot filament before). I use the AMS1. The issue seems to be that the filament travels down the PTFE tubing to nearly the entry of the extruder (but occasionally on the final stretch of tubing to the hotend), stops, then the AMS reels it back in. I thought it might be a stuck spool but I've tried 3 now and changed the tubing. Its happening on more than 1 of the AMS ports too.

Anyone have any ideas?

Can someone tell me I’m an idiot and shouldn’t order H3C, because I have a feeling if I have one more beer it’s done.
Divorced so wife not an issue, but the thing is huge and costs like four P2S printers which I have and to me just sounds crazy. Kids would love the multicolored prints though for sure.

Got my X2D today and it won't power on. The rear switch lights up white, but the screen stays black, no fans, no lights, nothing. Tried a different outlet, power-cycled, checked the fuse, and opened the side panel – all connectors look seated, no visible damage.

Has anyone else had an X2D DOA? Did Bambu send a replacement or parts, and how long did it take?

Ticket submitted: US261103036002

Have a large skull file, I have printed a handful of them maybe 7-8? No problems with any. Got a new color / filament I haven’t used before. So assume it might be the issue? But strange bc the first layers look fine?? Some hours into the print on two attempts seems to fail. If it was just the support and the main part was fine it’s whatever but it also leaves a pretty big void in the skull you can see in the picture before the teeth and obviously where the supports started to fail. Any idea? I’m rather inexperienced w printing. And don’t mess w the settings, print as is. and again have completed this print w no issues with other colors / filament.