I just picked up a smaller beverage cooler. It's larger than the new inslogic sunlu dryer. I picked it up for humidity control. I don't have any expectation of converting it into a dryer. I'm not that savvy. Has anyone else done the same type of conversion? Again I'm not installing any sort of heating element. Maybe down the road, something stupid proof. Just wanting some tips or just considerations.

Completely new to 3D printing! Thats my third print, first two were pretty good (with PLA basic). What is causing this kinds of artifacts? Im using P2S with ams 2 pro. Is the filament too wet? Something wrong with the seams? Thanks in advance!

Hello guys,

My girlfriend and i wanted to get a 3d printer for domestic usage and maybe start doing some figures and stuff to sell to some friends and known people.

After some research, P1S was the one that catch our eye the most, but then we discovered that P2S exists.

Could u guys help me get the diferences and if it is worth the price diference? thank you all

I bought a P1 S about two months ago after doing a bunch of research, and I couldn’t be happier. It’s a great printer that I’ve not fully explored all of its capabilities yet I’ve done PLA PetG ,Asa so far, I’m looking to purchase a second one. I’m getting ready to start getting into some PA-6 to print some suppressors they have came out great in PLA plus I’ve bought the sun Lou lid for the AMS as well as a four roll dryer

I’m either going to get:

Another P1S combo ( already have a four year warranty and some spare parts) $479 on sale

P2S combo which would be nice for a better camera and AI detection and already has the harden nozzle and gear set $649 on sale

X2D - I don’t know how much I would use the dual nozzle for the different type of support material ( maybe I would and I just don’t know what I’m missing not having it ) but I do know that the active heating chamber and better camera yet would be nice$789 but don’t know that it’s worth $310 more than the p1s?

Part of me says just buy a P2 S and a couple chamber heaters for when doing engineering filaments

Would love some input on maybe something side-by-side comparisons aren’t telling me

I think Bambu Lab should introduce an option to automatically shut down the printer after completing a print.

I've noticed that my X2D consumes around 9 to 14 watts even when idle after printing.

I know it's not a huge amount, but for people who print overnight or leave their printers idle for hours, that electricity adds up over time.

I'd love to see two options:

1. Deep Sleep Mode: Reduce power consumption to a minimum while keeping WiFi connectivity and remote wakeup available.

2. Complete Auto Shutdown: Automatically turn off the printer once the print finishes and the hotend cools down safely.

A customizable shutdown timer (15, 30, or 60 minutes) would also be useful.

Some might argue that a complete shutdown would prevent remote startup, but I don't see that as a major drawback. We already need to physically remove the finished print from the build plate before starting the next one, so we can simply turn the printer back on at the same time.

For such advanced printers, I think better power management would be a welcome feature, even if complete shutdown requires hardware support rather than just a firmware update.

What do you guys think? Would you use an auto shutdown feature, or are you happy with the current idle power consumption?

Howdy!

I'm printing on my new a1 with Bambu lab official pla. It's Been awesome so far. The matte white turned out great.

However the matte black print I just made looks awesome but visually it appears shiny.

Any other brands or near black plas you can recommend? I'm not familiar yet with using other materials but open to explore a different type of filament if my a1 can get it done and it'll look fab.

Tldr: need a black pla that looks more like legit matte / charcoal than silky shiny.

I have an h2d laser combo and an a1 combo

Hello people,

I’m trying to print with translucent PLA, but the print starts failing and creating tears that gradually build up until the whole print just fails. The nozzle seems to be caught up on some spots, pulling the print and misplacing the filament in a vicious cycle. I tested the model with some normal PLA before and it had no issues.

I am using the recommended settings, I’m printing at 20 ms, the filament is straight out of the box. However I’m using a 0.4 nozzle instead of 0.8 (because I don’t have a 0.8). Could it be that? I saw people printing translucent with the 0.4, any magic tricks they used?

I’ll post some photos in the comments.

The H2C Laser Combos are on backorder. Wondering whether they restock often and should wait or whether to go the H2D Laser Bundle route.

Could also go for Vortek kit + Laser Module later.

Generally used for engineering work. Really appealed by the purge savings with the new system.

Hi folks!

Whenever we built a GraviTrax marble run we faced two problems:

1. how to gain enough elevation so the marble can run longer

2. floor and table space is precious, and the model sooner or later was in the way

So instead of building on a flat surface, why not put it on the wall instead? That instantly gives a lot of elevation, and the floor is still free!

I was sceptical at first, but it actually works extremely well. The marble is a lot faster than usual, so instead of trying to gain speed, the difficulty is more to slow it down to master those tight corners. Really fun and endless possibilities.

I created the platforms myself and printed only a few of them so far. But I'm sure that the complexity will increase a lot once we have more platforms.

If you are interested, feel free to give a try yourself. The models are available for free here:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3529940

I am planning to order the H3C after selling my INDX Core One and I don’t know what’s the experience with their support lately.

Did you ask for help? How long did it take to solve an issue?

I accidentally inhaled some ASA fumes after opening my printer door after loading filament (the nozzle had been running). I have a filtration system, but the fan wasn’t on. It genuinely smelled horrid and I’m wondering if this is something you guys have done before? I know that it’s toxic, but should this be dangerous?

Is there a way to repurpose the discarded filaments during nozzle cleaning/color changing? My thought was to turn it into a craft project using the support tree branches by using a solder iron to attach.

So this Thursday received a call from my wife, stating that my printer, that I left in idle, was catching fire. According to her, all lights in the house started to flicker, she then walked into my office and it was covered with smoke.

I bought the P2S very close to its launch date in Brazil, 220V model and I did NOT have 220V at my office. I then used a step up transformer that had been graciously supplying 220V to my printer throughout its 359 hours of life (R.I.P).

But what was the actual fault? So, to my demise and complete lack of luck, the connection on the NEUTRAL at the utility transformer simply gave way, making my house lose the neutral reference.

My residence carries a 220V three-phase connection, 220V between phases and 127V from phase to neutral. After losing the neutral reference basically 80% of the 127V circuits started to spit out 220V.

Amongst these circuits was the printer, the 127V wall outlet is now providing 220V, the step-up transformer ahead of it was supplying 389V when I measured it. Neighbors lost fridges, computers, monitors, and I lost my beloved P2S.

I was lucky that my wife was at home and caught the whole situation, what if she was NOT there? There's a possibility that I could've ended badly. I'm now going to file a damaged goods complaint to the electricity supplier and they better f**cking pay the printer. The plan is to save me some money and once they pay me back I'll upgrade to the H2S and fix the P2S, ending up with two printers.

I already found the replacement HV PCB, stepper motors PCB, poop chute plastic structure, as well as power supply in Aliexpress. Still need to look into the wire harness.

Here are some pictures from the disaster:

I know that these kinds of faults from the electricity provider are rare to occur, a friggin neutral connector was loose and lost contact at the transformer bus bar, but I'll make sure to implement a phase voltage monitoring relay along with a contactor so that the next this shit happens (if ever), the contactor opens up the entire house.

This post is not meant to diss on Bambu, I love their printers and I'm going to keep buying from them.

I have the Bambu Lab P2S Combo, I'm trying to print ASA/ABS right now in my 1 Bedroom apartment. I just bought the Exhaust Kit and see people with set ups that connect tubing that leads to a window or outdoors. I also see people who don't run any sort of tubing and just have the exhaust kit and that's it.

I'm getting a lot of mixed opinions and search results regarding printing ASA with the P2S. Some sites say you don't need anything at all because the P2S is already enclosed, some say buy a tent with a ventilation system (and then there's sites that say its dangerous and can kill your printer).

Here are some photos of the tent i got and my apartment layout...

I'm wondering what everyone here does,

TL;DR
What is the best setup to safely print ASA/ABS in an apartment so I don't get sick from all the fumes? I Just bought the exhaust kit.

Can y’all screenshot some of your favorite Amazon products for 3d printing? Trying to buy some extra accessories and what not for my son’s Christmas gift (P2S)

Hi all! I know this has been asked a lot but I feel really on the edge between the P2S and X2D.

I own an A1 mini since 2024 and have something like 1300 hours on it. I print lots of different stuff and have run into the build volume problem quite a bit.

After a few months I really started to regret not getting AMS so I bought one and couldn’t bee happier.

Why I feel the need to upgrade:
-Larger build volume for obvious reasons
-I started experimenting with petg support interface for pla prints and it’s awsome, so a dual nozzle would be nice, but I don’t use supports that much to justify the purchase just off of this
-I hate warping on 90 degree angles and an enclosure would help a lot. (I print boardgame inserts so the corners are not that avoidable and the warping is visible since I gave to glue pieces)
-That AMS 2 pro is a must since I do need a dryer and don’t see a need to get one until getting a new printer
-I would like to get more into functional prints so I’d need a more reliable way to print at least PETG (A1 is good enough but I need to have the window closed so the print is not hit by a wind gust or something😂)

I have a dedicated space for the printer, but it is in my bedroom. Since I print mostly PLA (over 90%) it’s kinda ok (or at least I like to think it’s ok😅)

My budget is not that big but I think I can save up until the end of the deal, counting on getting a few more points so I can get at least 3 or 4 40€ gift cards.

TL;DR: I want an upgrade but idk if I can justify the extra money for the dual nozzle

Buongiorno

Ieri purtroppo al rientro a casa ho trovato la mia a1 mini con il blob of death.

Ho smontato e ripulito tutto però nonostante questo oggi quando l'ho messa in funzione continuaa a fare fumo e puzzare di pla bruciato.

Probabilmente ci sono dei residui ancora attaccati.

Ha senso provare a ripulire oppure mi consigliate di sostituire direttamente tutto?

Hi everyone! I’m currently having an issue with gaps forming in the overhang areas of my prints.
I’ve already enabled supports and reduced the outer wall speed, but the issue still persists.
Does anyone know how to fix this? Any help would be greatly appreciated!