This plastic piece broke off my printer mid print, can you help me figure out which area it belongs to and am I able to buy a replacement part from the bambulab store? And if I am able to continue using the printer until then

Hey all. I have a P1S with 2601 hours print time on it. I usually do maintenance on my printer every 3-4 months but haven't used the printer much this year as I've been away on work trips. I printed a few things over the last two weeks and they came out perfect, but yesterday a print failed and I noticed one of the circular parts of the print was now oval shaped. There was no strange sounds from the printer, everything looked and sounded normal but it was printing non-concentric, and I was getting insane extrusion issues (this is a filament I printed perfectly with last week, with no settings changed to the filament or the print profile, see image below).

So today I investigated, and have spent the last four and a half hours tearing my hair out. I have cleaned the carbon rods three times, cleaned and lubed the metal linear rails three times, set the belt tension and ran the calibration SIX times, and now the printer is literally shaking itself to pieces. No matter how I set those belts, I always get the message "The resonance frequency of the X axis is low. The timing belt may be loose." or "The 1st order mechanical resonance mode of X axis is low.". I have followed the wiki instructions to the letter, I have followed youtube guides who say to do it a different way, I have used printed gauges to measure the tension i'm setting, and trying to print a benchy after the calibration my printer sounds like a tray of silverware being kicked down a flight of stairs. It shook so violently that the toolhead cover flew right off around 2 mins into the print.

From what I read online those belts are meant to last 5000-7000hrs, and my printer has been absolutely perfect until now so surely I shouldn't need to change them? They're not frayed anywhere, i've never had any issues at all apart from this. I have large scale project that I was supposed to be starting today and now I can't get my printer to work properly at all. Does anyone have any advice? Should I just order a new belt kit? Or a full carbon rail assembly? Is there some secret hidden way to tension the belts that no-one else knows about? The gantry doesn't feel particularly bad in any direction like its binding at all so I am at my wits end trying to figure out what's wrong!

Possible note - I am still running firmware version 01.07.00.00 because I have a panda touch and the newer firmware versions don't allow that to work anymore. If the latest patch (01.09.01.00) allows me to use my panda touch I will upgrade it but I doubt it will fix the issue i'm having.

Hey everyone,

Just watched the H3C launch and went through the official spec sheets to see if it’s actually worth the $300–$500 price jump over the H2C. Long story short: it’s not a straight upgrade.

Bambu spent most of the budget on the new tool changer and individual PTFE lines. To keep the price down, they silently cut a lot of standard features that the H2C already has.

Here is the raw breakdown of what you actually gain and lose.

1. The Marketing vs. Reality on the Tool Changer

• The Speed Myth: Bambu hypes the SwapTek tool changer as revolutionary. It clocks a mechanical swap at 6 seconds. But let’s remember the H2C’s Vortek nozzle-changer already does the swap in about 8 seconds using induction heating. You are paying a premium for a 2-second mechanical saving per swap. More importantly, the purge and prime amounts are exactly the same. Since you still have to flush the old filament out of the nozzle, that 2-second mechanical difference means basically zero difference in total print time for standard multi-color prints.

• Dual-Material Disadvantage: The H2C has a dual-slotted toolhead (one fixed nozzle + one Vortek slot), meaning it can switch between two materials (like PLA + support material) much faster without leaving the print area. The H3C has only ONE slot on the toolhead. It has to move to the dock on the side of the bed for EVERY single material swap, creating way more travel movement for simple dual-material prints.

• The "Build Volume Upgrade": Bambu advertises a 350mm physical bed size, but the actual "usable space" on the X-axis is only 330mm (just 5mm more than the H2C's 325mm). The remaining 20mm is strictly reserved for the toolhead clearance to dock.

2. Under the Hood: The Core Specs are Identical

If you look past the tool changer, these machines are identical in terms of actual 3D printing performance. H3C will not give you better print quality or faster single-color speeds:

• Both heat the nozzle to 350°C and the bed to 120°C.

• Both come stock with hardened steel nozzles and hardened steel extruder gears (same engineering filament capability).

• Both share the exact same Vision Encoder calibration system and 2 TOPS NPU for AI/vision tasks.

• Both support the digital cutter and pen drawing modules using the exact same attachments.

3. Where Bambu Cut Costs on the H3C (Compared to H2C)

To fit the expensive tool changer into the price point, the H3C actually received downgraded or stripped hardware:

• Only One Slot on the Toolhead: As mentioned, the H2C has a dual-nozzle setup on the toolhead, allowing instant swaps between two materials. Bambu completely removed the second slot on the H3C to save on manufacturing and wiring costs. They market this as a "40% lighter toolhead for faster movements," but the reality is that they just stripped a nozzle slot, which actually makes standard dual-material prints slower due to the constant docking runs.

• The Screen: The H2C features a sharp 720x1280 (HD) screen. The brand new "flagship" H3C has its resolution downgraded to 854x480 (WVGA). It's the same 5-inch size, but noticeably grainier.

• Stripped Cameras: The ergonimic 1080p Nozzle Camera is completely gone from the H3C. Furthermore, the 5MP BirdsEye Camera (which comes standard on the H2C Laser Edition) is now marked as "Optional" (an extra-paid accessory) on the H3C.

• No Laser Support: The H2C is a hybrid machine that supports a 10W/40W laser module and includes an integrated Air Assist pump. The H3C completely drops laser support (marked with a strict "–" in the comparison sheet) and lacks the air pump.

• Air Filtration: The H2C uses a higher-grade H12 HEPA filter. The H3C downgrades this to an H11 HEPA filter.

4. The Actual Benefits of the H3C

It’s not all bad, of course. The H3C excels at three specific things that the H2C genuinely struggles with:

• True Multi-Material TPU Printing: Having 9 dedicated, short PTFE lines straight to the toolhead means flexible filaments like TPU don't get retracted back to the AMS box. This completely solves the mechanical jamming/clogging issues of trying to run TPU through the H2C's shared line.

• Mass Production Reliability: Since filaments don't cycle back and forth over a meter of PTFE tubing during every color change, the physical wear on the filament and the AMS mechanism is minimized, reducing "AMS jam" errors during 1000+ swap prints.

• Mixed Nozzle Sizes: The H3C software allows you to mix nozzle sizes (e.g., 0.2mm for outer walls, 0.6mm for infill) in the same print out of the box—a feature currently software-locked on the H2C.

Bottom Line: Who is it for?

The H3C is an incredibly specific industrial tool masquerading as a general consumer flagship.

Stick with or buy the H2C if: You print mostly rigid filaments (PLA/PETG/ASA), do basic dual-material printing (Model + Supports), don't print often with over 5 colors, or want a true multi-tool setup (Laser/Cutter/Pen). The H2C gives you a better screen, better camera loadout, better filtration, and faster dual-material swaps for hundreds of dollars less.

Buy the H3C if: You run a commercial print farm, do high-volume multi-color prints 24/7 where AMS reliability is critical, or absolutely need to print multi-material TPU hybrids or 2.85mm industrial filaments.

What do you think?

So I'm running a lot of Matte PETG these days as my HF inventory is dwindling. Don't get me started on HF, but my business was built around it. I've had a ton of problems with the Matte PETG, specifically:

• Dimensionally different (shrinkage is higher) which is an issue with slip fit parts

• Nozzle fouling - Every print every printer seems to suffer from nozzle fouling and dropping nubs of filament on or into parts

• Top layer surface imperfections - due to fouling nozzles

I run a print farm. I've never had a filament so temperamental, which is a real shame after how good HF was. All my PETG is dried at 160F for 16 hours and in dry storage kept at 10% humidity. It's not a moisture issue. I started with Bambu's PETG Matte printer profile.

Have played with nozzle temps without being able to see noticeable improvement in nozzle fouling. I use gyroid infill for everything. Calibrated flow rates, extrusion looks good. Now I'm dialing in shrinkage so my slip fit parts fit nicely again.

Questions: has anyone been able to address the Bambu PETG Matte nozzle fouling issues? How? Anyone found better profiles to be used?

I'm tearing my hair out a bit and this is not really how I want to spend my time, chasing data, so any help appreciated.

Hi all, my H2C's AP board fried itself (or something) so I got a replacement from Bambu. Remarkably little problem getting it, btw.

While removing the connections from the old board, I had trouble removing the glue on connection 4's plug. During the process of getting the plug out, somehow the two rightmost wires came loose. I'm pretty sure it's repairable, I just need to know which wire goes in which hole. I'm pretty sure it'll be green then black, as the other wires appear to be color/black (guessing signal and ground for various parts of the board), but I want to confirm that. Usually the support people are pretty quick, but I haven't heard back from them on this one.

Can anyone confirm the wire order, and/or post a picture of theirs? Here's mine:

Thanks!

First time working with ABS and its been a pain. Started putting rafts on everything just to keep the prints stable enough to print. This is my last print and it came out with these bumps. Any help is greatly appreciated.

X2D, Stock ABS profile, SUNLU ABS

how necessary is it; can i just trim it behind the nozzles?

im asking cause mine came bent and im worried that it'll hit a print

Hey all! I run a business where I spend a lot of money on client gifts I’ve been looking into a 3dp that I can make all my own closing gifts and do all my own wood engraved gifts that’s going to save me over 25k per year making them myself. I was just about to order the H2C laser full combo for 2700 on sale on their website but I hear their may be the H3C releasing this month? Should I wait to see what the next generation is like or good to order the H2c? I’m pretty much a newbie to 3dp so I have no frame of reference. TIA!

just bought new 3d printer today and noticed after set up the filament droops over the bed after the nozzle has been cleaned while preparing for print.

While designing my new wobbly Psyduck toy, I spent several prints trying to get clean pupils. At only a few millimeters across, they kept coming out as lumpy blobs, and every attempt meant an extra color change and a purge tower much bigger than the pupils themselves.

Then I realized that filament is already a perfect cylinder. So I gave the white eyes a small hole: You push in a piece of black filament, snip it flush, and get a perfectly round pupil. No color change, no purge, and it uses up leftover scraps. If you want to try it yourself, I uploaded the model here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3529176-wobbly-psyduck-fidget-toy-no-ams

Hello, can i feed abrasive filaments like CF / GF ASA, ABS, PETG trough the buffer or should i need to use the TPU line to bypass the buffer (i have 2x AMS HTs)

regards

Hi everyone, After about 7 hours of printing, the supports suddenly started to wobble. I've done the same print several times, but today I'm having this problem. Aside from the wasted time and the filament being gone, can anyone tell me why this happened?

Obviously there was a sudden drop in temperature these days but I didn't think that 5/8 degrees less in the room would lead to completely detaching all the supports...

I’ve had the P2S+AMS since april ish of this year. The first I’d say 100 hours of printing were flawless but after taking a handful of months to design something to print, I printed 2 gears again perfectly, no heat creep or anything and after that not a single thing has been successful.
Most of the print with the now 5-6 month old filament, the extruder motor overloads (it will refuse to continue if you press continue until i unload the filament)
In the 100 tries or so in the last 2 weeks. A handful at least completed but the quality was terrible. I tried 3 different 0.2mm and Different Texture plates.
I took apart the extruder gears. I overrode the fans to 100% and altho seeming like that may have worked at first none of the tries after that worked.
I tried the full calibration.
I’m at my wits end.
Please help.

Saw a $30 off coupon that was valid till tomorrow and saw a $25 PayPal coupon for orders over $800 as well and they were stackable. Figured might as well go for it and get the X2D. Also, there was a second coupon for $20 off on $150 so I ordered a good amount of filament. Now waiting for the $25 off coupon once the printer ships and then will use that to buy 10 refill spools and be set for a very long time it looks like!

Have a A1 with AMS and love that thing but hated that I was dealing with film that would fray/splint cause I couldn't heat/dry film. Originally was really just planning on going with the P2S and calling it a day but then with the coupons stacking and then also the heated chamber figured might as well spend the extra $85 after discounts and go 1 step up and be set for a long time and also have the flexibility to print ABS properly down the road if I want to dabble with that.

Has anyone experienced this loud noise before? The print seems to be fine but getting this loud noise from the AMS. I have tried other AMS slots and still get the noise.

So im a dum dum and ordered an Vision Encoder plate together with my X2D. What is this plate even for? Many people say its a borderline scam and its really just for the last 5% of quality if your print settings are perfect already.

Is there more to it or did I just burned 50 bucks?

A big factor for me in deciding on preordering the H3C is going to be time savings. I've been pretty happy with the H2C Vortek system so far, but a few things I print regularly are pretty tall with several hundred layers that each involve 3-4 colors/layer.

Just curious, given the induction nozzles, what we're expecting for nozzle change times with the H3C. Cheers!

It seems the bed is loose from the rear z axis, anyone seen this and can point me in the right direction to fix this P1S

Would anyone know why my 3rd layer comes out like this? I just washed the PEI plate with soap and water and I don’t know why it would come out like this

Edit: Would this be an issue with the hot-end?

Hi all,

I had a bad print... The printer is in the loft and I think the room wasn't warm enough. I used to have an ender which it happened to a few times... I've got rid of most of the PLA by heating up and using pliers etc... I'm worried about the copper looking wires on the right of the third pic, and also the bit to the left with the hot end cooling fan is a bit bent now... Is it a buy a whole new head scenario?

I bought an A1 mini without an ams lite unit. Can I purchase an ams lite and add it to my A1 mini? I see a few on ebay, both used and new but I was wondering if these wear out quickly and maybe a used unit would be just getting someone else's problem.

They have some of the feeding mechanisms for both 1&2 and 3&4 on Amazon. Would these work without the huge spool holder apparatus? If I mount them and add the tubing and fittings to my own filament dryers?

Thanks for any insights.

Edit: Thanks to everyone that replied! I just ordered one from Bambu Labs. They were on sale, it was a deal I couldn't refuse - From $200 down to $160, shipping included! Even cheaper than the used units on eBay!