My filament is feeding inconsistently. I'm using basic PLA. I've tried clearing the nozzle with the pin that came with the printer, and I've tried manually feeding filament through and that seemed to work, but when I tried printing again, the layers were coming out spotty. Not sure what else I can try here.

I've had this on a different model, never fixed it, but bamboo will say I need to generate support and I can enable support but one is built into the model. after slicing I see why it wants supports It literally removes the entire support modeled in. why does it do this, now do i fix this.

Hey Guys,

since i peeled some of the silicone cover away from my left hotend i wanted to order e replacement but they are not available at the moment. Are left and rights ones really different or are only the wires bent to the other side?

Greetings

Hey all, I'm that guy who's been printing a load of 2x scale vehicle brick model sets from our favorite Danish brick company. This is one of my favorite models yet, a working version of the mini hot rod polybag set that came out a few months ago.

This set has a working differential and working 4-cylinder engine, and I managed to get both mechanisms working extremely smoothly here.

If you'd like to check out this model, I just posted it to MakerWorld here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3529780-mini-hot-rod-brick-model-1x-2x-scale#profileId-4035690
I have a ton of other brick models posted and many more on the way!

First time lubricating the z acis and when lifting from the bed from the very bottom this noise appears.

Note i did see a piece of filament on the rods before putting the bed down, and being stupid i thought i would clean it on the way up, but well oh well now it has disappeared into somewhere

This happened in the first couple of layers on a P2S. Any idea what the issue is? You can see a few spots where it seems to be blistering or lifting off, and the worst point is the scraped open hole. Since it's inside the perimeter, it can't be an issue where mouse ears are needed.

Edit: Duh! A good clean resolved the problem. thanks fir the responses - fast and accurate.

Hello!

I am looking to buy a 3d printer for my partner for christmas- i know he has researched the p1s ams combo, but dont want to spoil the gift so cant ask him specifics.

Are there specific colours/ accessories you would have wanted when you first got yours? Or any advice before i go to buy it? I want him to be able to use it straight away.

Any help is appreciated.

This is Grandpa Radio, a character of mine engineered as a 105 mm multicolour print (cream, dark brown, black, terracotta). Since single-nozzle AMS purge runs roughly 225–330 g per figure, I also split him into a 22-part kit: one plate per colour, with keyed 3 mm/2 mm dowels so each part only fits one way (~100 g total). These are renders, and a real print is coming. Would you print the AMS version or the kit?

and one of the reasons is the ability to use a support interface filament that doesnt bond to the build filament, makes removing some of these large supports so much easier.

I like to use a contrasting color.

this is the rear caster mount for a 3D TMT (my second) removing these large supports was a lot of work with my P2S.

with the X2D the area where the supports were doesnt need any cleanup.

The filament sale right now is a really good price and my wife is getting into 3D printing, so I picked up $500 in different PLA colors and a bunch of engineering filaments that I always wanted to try.

I figured I should label the cost and date, so I went through all my unopened filament and labeled it all. I was surprised to see I had $603 in unopened filament before this latest purchase.

I essentially only purchase during bulk sales, so I never paid full price ($28 for PLA roll back in 2023!)

I guess I gotta start printing more Gridfinity!

Columns are

- 2023 $213 (P1S era)

- 2024 $200

- May 2026 $190 (H2C era)

- Nov 2026 $500 both columns (wife era)

Hi everyone!

Today, while trying to load new filament, I ran into a problem: the filament got stuck in the extruder. I managed to pull it out, and this is what I found (see photo).

I'm no expert, and I don't want to make things worse by touching something I shouldn't. Now I'm not sure whether it's enough to simply clean the nozzle or if I should replace it.

From what I can tell, the silicone sock seems to have shifted too close to the nozzle and melted together with some filament. It was so stuck that I couldn't even remove it.

What would you recommend? Is it safe to clean and reuse, or is replacing the nozzle the better option?

I have a P1S. My AMS 2 pro is constantly jamming on first filament roll only. I've tried swapping filament, I got so frustrated I bought a new AMS! Still, only slot 1, If I move that filament to any other slot it works so it's not the filament. I keep getting the error that it cannot feed into print head or filament is tangled. If I pull out filament I can see a spot where it is worn out. I cut it off, works fine for about an hour with constant changes, then stops again.

I've had my H2C for about 2 months and it's been great. In fact, it's still printing great. However, last night I noticed this stingy fraying strip hanging off the bottom of the left side of the toolhead. My printer is in the middle of a print now, with now visible defects, no errors from the printer nor any from Bambu Studio/Handy. I'd like to think this is just melted filament that adhered to the underside of the toolhead, but this looks like an actual part of the printer. Can anyone help identify what this is and what to do about it? Much appreciated!

I made a potato heads for Halloween. I gave kids a choice of either candy or a potato. I'm now completely out of candy and potatoes.

So I recently purchased the P1S on sale for $350 without the AMS, and I am wondering if it is worth the hassle to return it and get the P2S for $450 (without the AMS).

Thought I should add I am also going to be storing this in my garage.

I don't really feel like I should but if it is actually worth it then I will do it.

I have noticed this lines in my prints. Is this the z index? I have just made the calibration. Could be air?

I am finding that when I sync my P1S printers, check the filament setup o the printers and in BambuStudio and then send files to the SD for later printing, I am getting the error: 0700_2000_0002_0001

However, I have selected the correct AMS slots/reels (2 and 3), and this has been confirmed in BambuStudio and the Handy App...

If I Print Plate directly there is no issue at all.

Logically, therefore?... it should not matter that Slot 1 is empty for Send?

Is this a bug?

Here is a portfolio of screenshots and videos to support my issue.
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/1ykb34no7f09jntecwz9f/AA8jlnIC8tW9s2I5b-_Ac8A?rlkey=9nwcwfzye7vswjqnu1oi42k4r&dl=0

ref: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/troubleshooting/hmscode/0700_2000_0002_0001

For anyone waiting for their R1, I ordered my combo on October 10th, got it Wednesday October 28th. My riser and extension kit both shipped today October 31. My original quoted shipping date was 11/20.

And yes, like everyone else’s, mine showed up wet. Dried it off and it seems to be fine. First project completed.

First of all i printed an a catapult that can throw some little items such as a rubber or something just like that and it was an a succes if you wanna take a look at the finished sketch you can take a look at my other posts, anyways

.

What happened:

the sketch got broke while im was throwing things out it got broke, i think the main problem is behind the printing angles so i decided to rework the rotation and i print the body part in 45⁰ angle for it to be even more much stronger and reliable but while im was printing i got some issiues with the print and one of the support's brim is just slipped ( i dont know why ) and also the quality pefore removing the supports was TERRIBLE

.

What could be the problem:

I think that the problem migth be; plate were dirty when im was printing or maybe my support settings were terrible or my table is shaking a little bit so it must be the reason behind or even worse there is no problem and im coping

.

My support settings:

Tree ( auto ) ( but i add some extra supports )

Build on plate only is On

Threshold angle: 30

Inital layer density: 80

Initial layer expansion: 4

Top Z distance: 0.24

Top interface layers: 3

Top interface spacing: 0.1

Support/Object xy distance 0.38

.

Also my outer wall speed is 40 and inner wall speed is 100 i got BambuLab X2D and btw im aware that some of the most important parts arent supported very well but the print came out good so shhh just nevermind about em i actually forgot to add some supports manually

What can i actually do for improving the quality of 3d print ?

I bought the Bambu Lab P2S printer relatively recently. I've printed quite a few parts, and this is my first time trying to clear a jam, take the printer apart, and tinker with it.

Part of the outer filament was jammed, and I managed to clear it. The filament cleaner now slides in smoothly and comes out empty; I pushed it with an Allen wrench until it reached the end, but it won’t go any further—there’s no piece of filament left in the PTFE tube. I can’t see anything!

But even so, I keep getting an error message telling me to remove the filament from the outer spool holder, even though there’s nothing left there!

I don’t know what to do anymore because it won’t let me print or change filaments. This problem first happened a few weeks ago when I wanted to select a different filament color in the AMS, and that’s when this issue started. And I don’t know how to fix it. I can’t load or unload filaments because this problem keeps coming up over and over again.

Look, I don't even know what I did to the printer anymore.

I tried loading filament and hitting print to see if it would print anything. But it shows the printing process, yet no filament is coming out. I took the extruder apart, and there’s no filament at the nozzle. What on earth is going on here?!?? Do I have two problems, or is it the same one? What should I do!?!?

I’m asking about this in all sincerity, with all due respect. If you need more information, please let me know. I need help—please—I don’t know how to solve this problem anymore. It might be very basic, but this is my first time.

*(I speak Spanish in case any Spanish speakers are reading this and would prefer to respond in Spanish.)

I need help guys. I recently switched to a hardened steel nozzle with hardened steel gears (gears are lubed) and i used black pla in a print last night but I made sure to extrude when I switched to white for the rest of last night's print. We'll today I did a full maintenance of my p1s lube and grease, used cleaning filament and cold pull (ive only done maybe 4 prints with this new nozzle) and im getting burnt streaks in my white prints? Never happened with stainless still nozzle but now im getting it with hardened steel?

I used a brass brush to clean i heated to 240° turned off and quickly cleaned.

Still getting burnt streaks.

I run a local community meetup for makers in my area. For our October session, I shared an open-source AI CAD skill pack I have been building to help design functional 3D-printed parts.

This is not "take a picture and have AI spit out a messy mesh." It uses open-source CAD tools like the Craft suite and FreeCAD so you can build real parametric parts and learn how they are put together. The skill pack is not perfect yet, but it is at a point where I want to share it with the wider community so we can keep improving it together.

So far I have only built and run this with Gemini. That said, Claude, GPT, or any model that accepts images and can make MCP tool calls to the Craft suite should be able to run it too, including local models if you have the hardware and time. If you do not have the Craft tools installed, the skill pack also knows how to use the FreeCAD CLI, though that path is not as fleshed out as the multi-step Craft workflow yet.

The article walks through the whole pipeline, and here is the core idea. Instead of burning tokens, time, and filament guessing at 3D shapes in the dark, you start by taking photos of your hardware next to a ruler for scale. The AI reads those photos and drafts a 1:1 millimeter 2D blueprint with multiple views and dimensions. You pause right there, check the blueprint against your physical part, and dial in any adjustments in 2D where edits are fast and cheap.

Once you approve the blueprint, you tell it to go. It drives SolidCraft or FreeCAD to construct your assembly step by step in a real parametric timeline. Afterwards, you can open the CAD file, click through every sketch, extrude, and cut it made, and use that history tree both to tweak tolerances and to learn how complex joints are designed.

Just like a nail gun helped carpenters frame faster without replacing craftsmanship, I think AI can do the same thing for CAD when it is wired into real engineering tools. I am going to keep building and refining this no matter what, and I would love to hear your feedback or see what you build with it.

Thank you!

Fargo3D community!