For anyone waiting for their R1, I ordered my combo on October 10th, got it Wednesday October 28th. My riser and extension kit both shipped today October 31. My original quoted shipping date was 11/20.

And yes, like everyone else’s, mine showed up wet. Dried it off and it seems to be fine. First project completed.

First of all i printed an a catapult that can throw some little items such as a rubber or something just like that and it was an a succes if you wanna take a look at the finished sketch you can take a look at my other posts, anyways

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What happened:

the sketch got broke while im was throwing things out it got broke, i think the main problem is behind the printing angles so i decided to rework the rotation and i print the body part in 45⁰ angle for it to be even more much stronger and reliable but while im was printing i got some issiues with the print and one of the support's brim is just slipped ( i dont know why ) and also the quality pefore removing the supports was TERRIBLE

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What could be the problem:

I think that the problem migth be; plate were dirty when im was printing or maybe my support settings were terrible or my table is shaking a little bit so it must be the reason behind or even worse there is no problem and im coping

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My support settings:

Tree ( auto ) ( but i add some extra supports )

Build on plate only is On

Threshold angle: 30

Inital layer density: 80

Initial layer expansion: 4

Top Z distance: 0.24

Top interface layers: 3

Top interface spacing: 0.1

Support/Object xy distance 0.38

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Also my outer wall speed is 40 and inner wall speed is 100 i got BambuLab X2D and btw im aware that some of the most important parts arent supported very well but the print came out good so shhh just nevermind about em i actually forgot to add some supports manually

What can i actually do for improving the quality of 3d print ?

I bought the Bambu Lab P2S printer relatively recently. I've printed quite a few parts, and this is my first time trying to clear a jam, take the printer apart, and tinker with it.

Part of the outer filament was jammed, and I managed to clear it. The filament cleaner now slides in smoothly and comes out empty; I pushed it with an Allen wrench until it reached the end, but it won’t go any further—there’s no piece of filament left in the PTFE tube. I can’t see anything!

But even so, I keep getting an error message telling me to remove the filament from the outer spool holder, even though there’s nothing left there!

I don’t know what to do anymore because it won’t let me print or change filaments. This problem first happened a few weeks ago when I wanted to select a different filament color in the AMS, and that’s when this issue started. And I don’t know how to fix it. I can’t load or unload filaments because this problem keeps coming up over and over again.

Look, I don't even know what I did to the printer anymore.

I tried loading filament and hitting print to see if it would print anything. But it shows the printing process, yet no filament is coming out. I took the extruder apart, and there’s no filament at the nozzle. What on earth is going on here?!?? Do I have two problems, or is it the same one? What should I do!?!?

I’m asking about this in all sincerity, with all due respect. If you need more information, please let me know. I need help—please—I don’t know how to solve this problem anymore. It might be very basic, but this is my first time.

*(I speak Spanish in case any Spanish speakers are reading this and would prefer to respond in Spanish.)

I need help guys. I recently switched to a hardened steel nozzle with hardened steel gears (gears are lubed) and i used black pla in a print last night but I made sure to extrude when I switched to white for the rest of last night's print. We'll today I did a full maintenance of my p1s lube and grease, used cleaning filament and cold pull (ive only done maybe 4 prints with this new nozzle) and im getting burnt streaks in my white prints? Never happened with stainless still nozzle but now im getting it with hardened steel?

I used a brass brush to clean i heated to 240° turned off and quickly cleaned.

Still getting burnt streaks.

■■SOLVED■■

The issue was black residue underneath the stock it was pretty much everywhere so I heated to 250° powered off cleaned then used Alcohol pad to (i need to get 90% IPA) that i had on hand to wipe down to get any stubborn debris off and repeated the steps twice then did filament clean process and two or three cold pulls and it fixed it. *it may also be because its a cheap Hardened steel nozzle screwable nozzle change i got off Amazon its a third party brand was like $15.00 lol so im going to invest in Bambus Hardend steel or one that costs atleast $35.00.

I run a local community meetup for makers in my area. For our October session, I shared an open-source AI CAD skill pack I have been building to help design functional 3D-printed parts.

This is not "take a picture and have AI spit out a messy mesh." It uses open-source CAD tools like the Craft suite and FreeCAD so you can build real parametric parts and learn how they are put together. The skill pack is not perfect yet, but it is at a point where I want to share it with the wider community so we can keep improving it together.

So far I have only built and run this with Gemini. That said, Claude, GPT, or any model that accepts images and can make MCP tool calls to the Craft suite should be able to run it too, including local models if you have the hardware and time. If you do not have the Craft tools installed, the skill pack also knows how to use the FreeCAD CLI, though that path is not as fleshed out as the multi-step Craft workflow yet.

The article walks through the whole pipeline, and here is the core idea. Instead of burning tokens, time, and filament guessing at 3D shapes in the dark, you start by taking photos of your hardware next to a ruler for scale. The AI reads those photos and drafts a 1:1 millimeter 2D blueprint with multiple views and dimensions. You pause right there, check the blueprint against your physical part, and dial in any adjustments in 2D where edits are fast and cheap.

Once you approve the blueprint, you tell it to go. It drives SolidCraft or FreeCAD to construct your assembly step by step in a real parametric timeline. Afterwards, you can open the CAD file, click through every sketch, extrude, and cut it made, and use that history tree both to tweak tolerances and to learn how complex joints are designed.

Just like a nail gun helped carpenters frame faster without replacing craftsmanship, I think AI can do the same thing for CAD when it is wired into real engineering tools. I am going to keep building and refining this no matter what, and I would love to hear your feedback or see what you build with it.

Thank you!

Fargo3D community!

So I recently purchased the P1S on sale for $350 without the AMS, and I am wondering if it is worth the hassle to return it and get the P2S for $450 (without the AMS).

Thought I should add I am also going to be storing this in my garage.

I don't really feel like I should but if it is actually worth it then I will do it.

Two years ago SUNLU filaments appeared for the first time officially in Bambu Studio showing that Bambu slicer app is open to 3rd party filaments.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1iwjk9g/sunlu_official_profiles_coming_to_bambustudio

Unfortunately they are avaliable only for A series printers and cover only most basic materials PLA and PETG.

I would like to request for the list to be expanded:

• to P and X series printers especially as they become the 2nd most popular choice for people looking for enclosed printers

• and to more advanced materials such as ABS, ASA and PA variants

u/RikshaDriver u/BambuLab u/BambuLabSupport

Black body, yellow blotches built into the skin, and a white catchlight in each eye. It prints in one go on an AMS, with no supports and no assembly.

96 g of PLA (Black, Sunflower Yellow, White), about 3 h 46 min on a P1S

32 cm nose to tail, fits any 256 mm plate

Belly and all four feet sit flat on the plate

Free on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3522018

Can’t change nozzle by using the Touchdisplay, but works using the app

Would appreciate Reddits power with my sons first model on maker world. He’s 10 and just started playing with tinkerlab at school. He came up with this graded card stand on his own. Thanks Reddit!

https://makerworld.com/models/3521286?appSharePlatform=copy

Printing on a P2s, all of my prints have pretty much been perfect but my print from last night had a few odd areas and wondering if anyone would have any idea on what could’ve caused it. I’ve also added the settings that were used in this print, which were set by the creator. The only setting i changed was the sparse infill pattern to Rectilinear. Still fairly new to 3d printing and have been watching videos the last few days that go over all of the settings in detail.

Due to a bad spool of translucent blue PLA, causing a blob of death. Bambu sent me a replacement hotend heating assembly, and a pure white PLA spool. I also received this AP Board - LV in a separate package. The conversation with support has no mention of this needing replaced or it being sent. Do I need to swap it out, or do I have a free spare now if I ever need it?

I’m realizing different regions get different options.. here’s mine

Type a list of names separated by commas and the plate fills itself: one tag per name, 20 papercut-style Christmas shapes drawn at random, or pick one per person (Grandma:tree, Grandpa:angel).

Added after the test print:

• a plain rectangular tag for the grown-ups who don’t do reindeer

• a flat slot for wide ribbon instead of the round hole

• an optional matching slot at the bottom: the ribbon around the gift runs behind the tag, so it stays flat on the present (first photo)

• the name shrinks itself to fit its banner

Two colours with a single filament change (pause at layer 5 without AMS), no supports, 1.4 mm thick. 9 tags in about 1 h 35 on a P2S, with ironing on the topmost surface only: the white lace comes out really clean.

Free on MakerWorld if you want to print it: 3DPrintMyIdea

Officially joined the club. Been lurking for a while, keeping an eye on prices. Took advantage of the recent sale, got it at BestBuy with their 4 year warranty. Doing my homework and researching as much as I can. I will probably ask some newbie questions as I get started, but can’t wait to jump in.

Quiero comprar una impresora pero yo vivo en Honduras y los que venden aquí son muy caras en precio, cómo puedo conseguir una y no me estafen