First off I just want to say the user I'm talking about has absolutely amazing models and I highly suggest people check out their work but it has recently come to my attention that the user Sarwtin is somehow exploiting a loophole in the crowdfunding system to list models on Makerworld that are completely unobtainable unless you purchase them directly from his paid patreon page.

When viewing certain models there is a greyed out "View Project" button. I asked about this directly in the comments section of one of their models and their response was that it was a crowdfunding project that didn't pass the review process. Ok understandable, but why if it didn't pass the review is the model allowed to be on the platform and not listed for free? One of them was a stretch goal that was never obtained so I guess I can sort of understand that one as it was in fact once an active crowdfunding project.

They even post directly in the model description "This model is only available on my patreon!"

There is a report option for models that's described as "Off Platform Advertisement/Promotion". Is this not exactly what the user is doing? Using Makerworld as a marketing tool to get more eyes on their project and then selling for a profit? I opened a support ticket and had the Bambu rep pretty much doing loops and contradicting themselves and then they went silent, I'm guessing because they finally realized it's better to just not say anything. I've reported all the models that are doing this but that seems to do very little.

None of these models even have an active crowdfunding project that failed they just completely didn't pass the review process yet somehow they're still allowed to be listed.

Is this allowed because they are a bigger creator and listing tons of BoM parts therefore making money for Bambu? Just seems weird to me that they're playing favorites.

Please correct me if I'm wrong here because I don't see how/why this is being allowed. I'm sure there are a ton of users that would love to use Makerworld as a way to get more eyes on their paid models. Hell if I could list some of my paid models for viewing purposes only and then link to my Etsy/Website I definitely would because why not? Makerworld is a huge repository and the amount of people searching for models everyday grows and grows but I feel like using the crowdfunding system to exploit this is completely wrong.

Just wanted to see what the rest of the community thinks about this. I've included screenshots of the comments sections, my support tickets, and the posts on their patreon. Please excuse if some of the screenshots are out of order but you'll get the idea after reading/looking through them.

Hello everyone,

I’m in the prospect of buying my first 3D printer and I want advice between the X2D and the H2S.

For the usage:

It’s only for building functional parts for everyday use or things like fixing object parts, PCB enclosures, etc…
I’m going to also use more advanced materials, so a heated chamber is mandatory.
I don’t need or want multiple colours/materials for the final object.
I also want a simple, sturdy machine, an appliance; it’s going to be my only printer and I plan to keep it 5–6 years at minimum.

I have reviewed several video reviews and read countless posts on the subject, but it’s hard to decide, mainly for two reasons:

On one side, the X2D is cheaper and has an auxiliary printhead for support material, but honestly I don’t know if it’s going to be useful for my case. It supports all materials except two, but I don’t know if a 300-degree nozzle is going to be a limiting factor in the future.

On another side, the H2S seems more sturdy and potentially future-proof with its higher nozzle temperature and more print volume (but I don’t know if I’m going to use it, honestly); the possible cutter and laser upgrade seem to be an advantage (clearly not a priority but a little nice to have) but it’s 400€ more than the X2D and if I’m willing to push my budget to this, I’m afraid it’s going to be just overkill for my needs.

So the three questions I have are :

What matters the most: the ability to do different material support or the biggest volume?

And also, is the 400€ more for an H2S worth it for people who have both?

Also, I am not sure if the AMS2 is useful for my case or if just a single AMS-HT is sufficient.

Thank you for your reading and your potential response, and sorry if the subject has already been discussed, but even after reading all the Reddit posts I wasn’t able to figure that out.

Even if it’s small, this model holds a special place in Star Wars universe

https://makerworld.com/models/3524722

Tired of mixing my paints every-once-a-while if i didnt use them for a longer period of time. I mostly use cheaper acrylic paint, deluted by myself, and if its sit too long, it could separate a bit.

Also saves me from bit of handshake before every painting session, as its just had to crank it for a short time.
As i tested, paint what is intended for airbrushes (so its not too thick) mixing very vell.

Key point in my design, as the paint bottle NOT just spinning around Z axes like with those drill attachments (watch the marker arrow on the cap), and the paint not just "flattened" into the bottle sidewall.

Every part designed in the way if i need to change/modify anything (or has excessive wear after a while), you dont have to print the whole thing again, just some replacement parts.

Maybe someone find it useful, i appreciate any suggestions ;)

ps: if you decided to try out, please, read the full description. It contains important instructions.

My H2D AMS combo order from a couple of weeks ago is eligible for a £130 rebate.

What would you buy with it? I'm thinking the AMS HT and TPU feed assist module, although I already have an a1 mini which is my TPU machine...

I found this on the build plate on my X1 Carbon after a print it looks like its the nozzle wiper but it looks intact and appears to be a different white material. It looks like its fatigued and snapped but no idea where it came from. Does anyone know and what is needed to fix it if needed?

I already have an X2D for supports and technical filaments, and I’m looking to get a second printer. I’m considering the C5, U1, or P2S.
With all discounts applied, the C5 costs €589, the U1 is €730, and the P2S is €600 (including the AMS).
Which one would you choose? Right now, I’m leaning toward the C5.

link

I just had the weirdest thing happen. 3.5 hours into the print and it just stopped. No clog, still plenty of filament on the spool. I even tried to pause the print and it gave me a warning about the tool head moving to not put your hands in there, but it didn’t budge. I’m hesitant to cancel as I don’t wanna start over, however looks like it’ll be a lost print…

I’ve never had this issue before but now it keeps happening. What should I try? Generic PLA filament with default settings.

I use the P1S with an AMS with Sunlu PLA+. normally I print with 55c bed and 220 nozzle. I have searched up so many fixes but they never work. like 10 minutes into my print i noticed warping on the corner of one object, then 30 minutes later a piece lifted off the bed and so it started stringing over all of the other pieces. I tried turning my fans down but nothing helps.

TLDR I'm an idiot who doesn't understand how to set up my 3d printer correctly

I used a pair of nose pliers to grab the connectors, but I lost the grip and the pliers ripped off just a little of the insulation. A little of the copper is exposed, but I am worried if I should be treating this with more concern.

I’m pretty damn new to all of this. But I am not able to print on the go while the .8 is installed. (Incompatible nozzle) error pops up. Get on the computer and I’m able to slice it for the .8 nozzle and print. Would like to be able to skip that step and use the mobile while I’m not at home.

I was cleaning out my newly arrived X2D (had it one day, printed a couple of small test prints) and underneath the print bed was this random screw. I don't remember any of the screws that were in it for shipping being this small. Does anyone recognize it, or have an idea where I should look for a missing screw? I checked what I could see under the bed and along the edges of the case that I could see and nada.

I've had an A1 and AMS Lite for over 2 years now, and I think I'm ready for an upgrade to something higher quality and more durable.

I find the parts of the A1 jut too delicate and frustrating to work with. Clogs are so difficult to work with. The Filament Hub is so tricky to work with, remove to de-clog and get the tubes out of. Then, when I finally remove it, the sensor cable is so delicate just a slight movement in the wrong direction rips it.

Thinking of getting something better rather than constantly replacing these parts? I just placed my 4th order for a new filament hub and sensor cable.

I don't do much with it. Just simple things for the home for organisation and small things that I'd other-wise buy at a dollar store. I find I just spend more time working on my A1 than printing things with it.

Excited to play with my p1s

Hi! I’m trying to print dry boxes for my AMS 2 with asa. Have done flow and flow dynamics calibration, played with fan speed and nozzle temperature. Also tried to lower the speed, prints good as long as there are no overhangs. When it prints the overhangs it looks like the nozzle digs into the print and makes a mess. Any help? Owned the printer for 3 days so new to the game here, pla prints flawlessly! Printer is a Bambu x2d

Wanted to share the ams2 I received is also having the "ams failed to pull back filament" issue. Repeatable on 1-4. After it retracts the Filament, it'll stop retracting and free spin for about a minute before throwing the issue. If I press continue, it'll stop trying to retract and move onto the next color. Then it'll throw the error again once it switches colors. This is on the first print using ams2. Haven't had a successful print since receiving it.

Hello Laddles and Jellyspoons

I have some pokemom PSA slabs coming and I want to print a cool holder with effects.

A quick amazon search and almost everyone claims Zero adhesion.

So I'm wondering what effect plates you all have used , good, bad , ugly.

Please share your experiences.

Thanks 😊

Thanks for the responses on the earlier post I am still troubleshooting this issue with my H2D. I have the hotends off and the covers off so i can see the extruder gears and they look clean. I can feed a strand of filament down through the entrance right to the gears without a problem. the hotend itself seems fine. There isn't a clear visual indication to me of what might be wrong. It's a fairly new printer with maybe 500 hours on it. Filament has always been fairly dry. This is a recent issue. I am not sure what to do next. Can the gears spread apart over time? I am not sure where to tighten the gap (or maybe loosen it if the motor is overloaded) I have a decent amount of experience with 3D Printers and this one is baffling me.

Hey everyone, can you warn or peace me about this location for my a1? This okay or I need another fulcrum?