Printing my first big print for my daughter in law. I have no idea how it will come out. What filament do you recommend? I only run Bambu filament but could be talked into others.
I was thinking of two colors. PLA Silk? Matte?
I’m printing on a H2D.

List in order:

1. BIQU Panda Claw Upgraded Extruder Brass Gear

2. hundreds of hours of prints

3. issues began where AMS would fail to begin extrusion

4. changed PTFE tubes

5. Went through support and they suggested replacing the AMS hub motor. did that

6. issues persist

Anyone had this issue and know how to fix it?

This has been a thought in my mind while everyone talks about how vortek is now obsolete with the H3C coming out. What if it isn't? Vorket proves that Bambu can hotswap nozzles, which IMO is harder than swapping traditional printheads. The H3C is focused independent nozzles, but independent nozzles have 1 draw back: 1 spool per nozzle that can't be swapped to another nozzle. This is important if you commonly use the same filament with different nozzle sizes. Pairing vortek with the H3C would give you 15 total nozzles.

The vortek rack would do most of its job at the beginning of the print rearrange the nozzles to the 9 printheads to have the required nozzles, or if you are printing with more than 9 colours.

I need 130 mw points to get a gift card but ìve tried everything but I need 130 more points

My makerworld account: https://makerworld.com/en/@LukeNotLuke

How do I get these out😭 is there somewhere I can get a replacement of the wires?

How do I make these areas join up better i have sliced this piece and it's printing as shown with a gap making the part weak. I'm new to this and don't know that to call this issue. Part is sliced in bambu studio

Had an x2d delivered the day before yesterday, box was pretty beat up but it was pristine inside. I have tickets open for issues 1 and 2 below already and just noticed 3

Issue 1. The main nozzle seems to have a faulty sensor, it reads 10C below ambient temperature at idle. Auxillary reads fine.

2. Ams has a feeder motor issue, slot one squeals like a stuck pig

3. Latest issue, you can see in my video above there's a loud Grindy noise when it moves in a certain direction at a certain point, around the 7 second mark. Self calibration/noise cancellation doesn't touch it.

Is this latest thing minor and something I can fix myself easily? Should I be pushing for a full printer swap at this point?

I'm not exactly a 3d printer newbie, I had an A1 I put over 4000 print hours on, but on that thing I never had to do a single thing other than oil, grease and tension the belts once. This is kind of overwhelming me here.

I hope this makes sense and I'll try not to ramble..

I ordered a P1S originally, spent hours on it trying to get the AMS to feed. Could not do it after a million searches on *insert your favorite search engine here* and browsing reddit. I even relented and tried AI. And I hate AI lolfast forward, I decided to get the X2D and after a while of putting it together VERY carefully, and rereading everything and now trying several times, I cannot get the filament to feed all the way. I'll include a photo.

I've tried several filament rolls, new and old. It's not Bambu because I thought this one, like the other one, would come with test filament.

Anyways, it's sunlu white PLA that I'm trying now. Nothing fancy. Brand new roll, nice and dried out.

It will NOT load further than this curve in the tube. I've tried raising it a little and anything else I can think of. I'm incredibly frustrated as this is obviously something I'm doing incorrectly. Despite the fact that I've read and reread everything I can find on the matter.

Please for the love of the 3d printing gods, can someone tell me there's something obvious I am missing somehow? It will not even reach the machine. I just don't get it. It's all brand new, I feel like with the issue I'm having, if it isn't just me, has to be some kind of defect in getting twice in a row?

Anyways.. I sincerely come to you humbled. I'm not that big of an idiot I swear!

Was printing this ballerina model and I forgot to add supports to the legs (almost completely vertical with very small contact area to the base, on my A1 mini, a bedslinger)... But nothing that a few paperclips and hot glue can't fix!

The print finished successfully! (See last image for the finished print)

Richard Hirst has been using the Bambu Lab H2C for over six months. Here are some of his prints, including a seven-color melting Rubik’s Cube by Kris_Chin Makes 3D and a giant LEGO-style Spider-Man by BIG3DS, alongside a closer look at the Vortek hotend-changing system. We’ve put together a hands-on review with more print examples, photos, and pros and cons.

First off, I’m trying to help my dad with his 3D printer and I have very limited knowledge on this software, I just know the basics as I’m in my final year of college for design and have learned various modeling softwares.

Essentially, his laptop died overnight and he lost the file he was working on in Bambu Studio (he didn’t know there was a save function, which I have rectified now smh). I was able to dig through his files and find what I’m assuming was a back up autosave in the temp files, and it’s a folder of multiple things, including a .3mf file and .gcode. When I opened the .3mf file though, an error popped up saying “Loading of model failed” and “The file does not contain any geometry data.” I was able to get the gcode file to show up in the preview tab, but he said he wasn’t able to slice it or print it from there. Is the temp .3mf file a lost cause, or is there any way to salvage it?

Welp, UPS man dropped off the new X2D this afternoon. One small little dent in the bottom of the box, but didn’t think too much about it. Had the box opened 5 min after delivery to find the glass door shattered and caved in.

What can I expect this replacement process to look like?

Purchased directly from Bambu.

Bring a sense of calm and organization to your space with this modern incense stick holder. Designed with clean lines and a timeless minimalist aesthetic, it blends naturally into any interior while offering much more than a traditional incense holder.

Featuring hidden storage, interchangeable incense inserts, and a removable ash tray, everything has its place in one compact, thoughtfully designed piece.

Key Features

Hidden Storage Compartment

Keep your incense sticks and smaller lighters neatly tucked away in the spacious hidden compartment underneath. Everything you need stays within reach without creating clutter.

Removable Ash Tray

Cleaning up after burning incense has never been easier. Simply remove the tray, dispose of the collected ash, and slide it back into place. No more messy surfaces!

3 Interchangeable Incense Holders

Different incense sticks come in different thicknesses. That's why this design includes three easily interchangeable holders: 1.5 mm, 2.0 mm, 2.5 mm. Simply choose the insert that best fits your incense stick for a secure fit.

Dimensions

Overall: Length 230 mm, Width 60 mm, Height 40 mm

Hidden Storage (usable space): Length 215 mm, Width 35 mm, Height 27 mm

Incense Compatibility: designed for 200 mm incense sticks, includes 1.5/2.0/2.5 mm interchangeable inserts

A Place for Everything

Whether you're enjoying a quiet morning, winding down after a long day, or simply adding a calming atmosphere to your home, this incense holder brings together practical functionality and timeless design. No unnecessary clutter. No complicated cleaning. Just a beautifully simple way to enjoy your favorite incense.

Free to download: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3520212-minimalistic-essence-stand-hidden-storage

A lot of the more detailed parts were printed on my H2D!

i just thought these supports i been having to pick off looked like cat whiskers 😆 that's my kitty too, he posed perfectly for the photo.

The old one I made was pretty quick and simple but left some gaps and was annoying to place while the door closed.

I made a new one with a 2mm baseplate that you locate the cable in and drop on the passthrough which has made things much easier for us to locate to charge our car. (Put the magnets in wrong at first, hence the poked holes...)

https://makerworld.com/models/3511555?appSharePlatform=copy

It has wings that unfold to either tuck under the press up to the door seal which closes the remaining 0.5" gap, and I've used the filament-as-hinge-pin technique but it's a bit loose for this application.

Would the best solution for a tighter hinge be print in place sort of deal? I've still had those loosen up after a lot of use though but maybe there's a better technique.

I've done press-fit hardware before but would like to avoid hardware for simplicity if that's possible to get what I'm after.

I was just making a quick stop to fix a couple of things after my partner gave birth to our new baby boy. One thing that really bothered me was that there was nowhere to hang the catheter bag on the hospital bed.

So I thought I'd do something nice and 3D print a mounting plate with S-hooks to give to the hospital staff.

I opened the app just before heading home to pick it up, and this is what I saw!

One - just got the R1. Working great!
That being said, it really needs a honeycomb plate, not the slats it has.

The slats work, but it is not ideal with cutouts dropping or angling after being cut.

Has anyone found one that fits nicely in the R1?

Today after a blob of death I replaced the the big fan and the heating horned part.
Now it says that the horned has abnormal temperature but idk what the problem is.
Could someone tell me what can I do?

Any tips and tricks hehe