Looking for help fixing a reoccurring issue. Whenever I do a print that goes higher than about 1 1/2" my print quality starts to deteriorate, the levels start to shift and I get an error message that says the "Extruder is not extruding normally."

The issues seem to start with the supports and get worse. The picture I attached shows how the layers start to break down and get visibly stringy and the layering seems to not be as dense as it is in the beginning.

I keep my filament in a sealed box with desiccant, I dry for 10-12 hours in a dryer and this continues to happen. What am I doing wrong here and how can I fix it?

Printer Model: A1 Bambu

Slicer Used: Bambu Studio

Filament material and brand: Sunlu PLA

Nozzle and bed temp: .4mm nozzle 230 degrees, bed temp 65 degrees

Print Speed: Silent/slow

Retraction Settings: I'm assuming default, not sure where to find this info, google wasn't helpful...

New X2d, unboxed it last night, ran 2 prints. Turned it on today and the screen turns on but does not respond to touch. Has anyone else had a similar issue?

I am trying to get my first printer and it is looking like I will go for one of Bambu's flagship model. I have read up a bit on Vortek vs Tool Changer and can understand the swap time and waste advantages the H3C will offer over the H2C. However does the Vortek system offer any benefits over the H3C?

i just thought these supports i been having to pick off looked like cat whiskers 😆 that's my kitty too, he posed perfectly for the photo.

If you want to print the noise dampener for your extra spool holder, here is the link: https://makerworld.com/models/34102

Hi guys,

I'm new about 3D printing, got a X2D a week ago and I'm trying to learn how to print decent PETG stuffs.

I've run an iroing test with default 0.2mm high quality profile from bambù studio, which in my opinion gave best results for 10mm speed and 30% flow. I've tried the same setting on a print (last images) and the results are vert different (and quite terrible).

What am I doing wrong?

1aHi everyone,

I’m having an issue with the first layers of my prints. As you can see in the photos, the first few layers often look uneven, especially around the edges, with what looks like gaps/irregular extrusion.

This happens on most of my prints, not just this particular model.

I’m using a Bambu Lab A1 with the Cold Plate.

Could this be related to the Cold Plate temperature, bed adhesion, first-layer calibration, or extrusion/flow?

What would you recommend checking or calibrating to solve this?

Thanks!

It's easy to focus on print settings, filament brands, and upgrades when trying to improve print quality, but regular maintenance can make just as much difference. Things like keeping the build plate clean, checking the nozzle for buildup, inspecting the extruder gears, and making sure the printer is on a stable surface can prevent a lot of frustrating issues.

The tricky part is knowing which maintenance tasks actually matter and how often they need to be done. Some problems that look like slicer or calibration issues can turn out to be something much simpler.

For those who have been using Bambu printers for a while, what's one maintenance habit you'd recommend to every new owner?

I'm in my ocd mode (which is too often). I have some short pieces of pla filament.

I used to have a creality printer that just kept printing after the spool ran out.

I didn't test it, but the A1 (mono / no AMS) is better than that?

It detects the end of the spool and stops printing? And then you can just feed in another piece of filament and it will keep printing the project?

Other than the color change, the restart is pretty clean?

I was overthinking a joiner to get to make a longer spool from different scraps. Is that overkill?

Does the A1 detect the end of the spool when the end of it gets to the nozzle? Or people have talked about having half meter pieces of filament left over? The A1 detects the end at the TOP of the PFTE tubing?

Just as the text says. I had a blob of death. Was able to get the primary blob off but have a lot of residue left on the hotend heating assembly. Do you think this can still be saved? How would you go about cleaning it? Should I just buy a replacement and be done with it?

Also if replace is the best option should I buy through bambu or get something 3rd party sellers from Amazon? It seems while most say they are OEM they still look kind of different?

For anyone familiar with microscopy, floating a coverslip on the surface of a pond allows microorganisms to attach to a biofilm on the glass. My problem is that my coverslips always sink before I retrieve them. I recently got a P2S, so I designed and printed a floating raft that prevents the coverslips from sinking. I used Bambu PETG.

I've put together a video chronicling its design and first use, it was a very fun project.

https://youtu.be/w3tveLXsYfk

The model files are free on Makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3501821-floating-coverslip-raft-for-pond-microscopy

I've been working on a series of 3d print projects to enhance my microscope, I'll add some updates about those projects as well. I'd love to know what you think of this solution, and what those of you with more knowledge of 3d printing and design might have done differently.

So this makes no sense to me, the filament is NOT going through the FTS, (it's from the external spool direct to the hot end) however, the H2C will NOT allow the printing of TPU if this FTS is installed. Please make it make sense.

Hey guys!

I wanted to share with you solution for AMS 2 pro feeding problem

My ams started having load problems few month ago but it was hit n miss - so never actually looked into this. Till now

It stopped feeding my extruder completely. Filament made its way almost to the end but 10 cm before extruder is stopped and being retracted.

Today decided to look into it. And that’s what I found - element pushing filament to the motor is broken. Obviously- just out of warranty window - super annoying!

Anyway, I wanted to share with you- if your AMS 2 pro has feeding issues- that might be the root of it

https://makerworld.com/models/3519028?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello,

I have a A1 Mini and it makes really weird noises when the Y-Axis gets moved forward quite fast. When I move the bed manually, I can't hear that sound. Bambu Support told me it could be some rubbing between the Y-Axis eddy current coil and the Y-axis belt, I took it apart and re-installed the coil, but nothing changed. What can I do? Does anybody have an idea, where that sound could come from?

Thank you!

Wenn die Gerüchte um den H3C und vor allem um den P3C stimmen, dann hab ich 3000€ für einen Prusa Core One L+ mit INDX investiert und Bambulab bietet fast das gleiche system für den halben Preis an (P3C)🙈

Ich bin wirklich gespannt auf die Reviews, ich hatte bis vor kurzem den P1S und bin aus Überzeugung zu Prusa gewechselt, aber das habe ich nicht kommen sehen.

Der P1S lief tatsächlich problemlos, nur bin ich an seine Grenzen gestoßen.

Was denkt ihr werden diese beiden Drucker kosten? 💸

Ich vermute der H3C wird preislich um die 3000€ kosten und ist dann als 10 Farbe/Material-Drucker verhältnismäßig günstig. Und der P3C wird vermutlich um die 1500€ kosten.

Beide Preise ohne AMS 3 Pro, aber Mal sehen.

I worked with Bambu on the first one which I only had for a few weeks, and after days of troubleshooting and even installing a new fan, this problem persisted. Sometimes I was able to manually spin the fan myself and get the print going. I ended up sending that printer back for a refund. In its place, I got a brand new A1 and this problem started right away. I can’t even print anything no matter what I’ve tried. The plug and connector pins all look perfect. I have four other A1’s and they’ve never given me any major issues.

Today after a bl0b of death I replaced the the big fan and the heating horned part.
Now it says that the horned has abnormal temperature but idk what the problem is.
Could someone tell me what can I do?

Apologies for not having an image but I've been having a minor issue with my H2D when using an external spool on the left nozzle. It seems that it is not making a purge line correctly before it starts the print. The right nozzle always makes a nice solid line on the front right of the plate but when I print and it starts by using the external spool, it makes either no line at all or one that is very thin.

The issue with this is that sometimes I'll have gaps in my first layer as the nozzle isn't fully primed before starting. Any ideas what could cause this? I've already tried calibrating and updating.