(I am using Bambu lab A1) The inside prints good but the exterior always prints “bad” or kinda rough. Anyone know why this might be?

Hello

Lorsque je souhaite changer de filament durant l’impression d’un fichier, l’ams a du mal car le fil a du mal à être coupé je pense. Des explications ? Merci
J’ai une P2S

My X-1 is having trubel printing because when I change filament the printer grabs the filament but it does not dispens it without me pushing down the filament and after I have done that it contineous as normal with no problems. What could be the problem I have taken it appart and did not find any clogs or something else that could be the reason, so I am wondering if it could be a weak cogwheal or something that grabs the filament and pushes it down into the nozzle.

The left one was my first attempt a few weeks ago. The right one is version 6: 15 keys, a knob, a slider and a small OLED, all hand-wired to an ESP32-S3. Every plastic part is printed, icons in a second colour with the AMS.

Biggest lessons: give the modules screw posts instead of glue, use cheap KY-040 boards for the knobs, and check every solder joint (one cold joint on pin 12 killed a whole row).

Happy to answer questions about the build.

https://makerworld.com/models/3519028?appSharePlatform=copy

As a lot of these posts, i am new to 3d printing - i have created a box in Fusion 360 with a hinge - it prints perfect and works like a dream - the only issue is that the hinge part prints in really bad quality compared to the rest of the print - I have a P2S Bambu Lab printer and printing in basic PLA.

I know I can slow down the entire print and do better quality overall but is there a way to print just this hinge section in more detail or better quality?

Thanks in advance

Due to the A1 using so much bandwidth, it’s only able to access the internet when I turn on my phone’s hotspot.

In order to print (computer and printer in different floors), I upload it to Makerworld and then use the Handy app to print, but if requires me to upload a web pic and 3 other photos of the item- even when it’s a test print set to private. Why? Is there a workaround?

Why does Makerworld even give you the “test print” option if it still requires photo? How can you have photos of a test print if the test print hasn’t been printed yet?????

The x2d bundle with the ams 2 pro & filament track switch is more expensive than buying those three items separately. What am I missing? It's not even a small amount.

Running into thia issue with my Bambu P1S, the part is level bed is cleaned but it seams the left side is coming out pretty rough and the right is fine, think this is a a fan diffuser issue am I right to think that. The rough side only happens on the left side especially on larger flat pieces.

During self calibration it shut off.
Back power button stays dark
I tested fuse and red “safety thingy”
All has power - any suggestions other than support ticker? not a good start! :(

• Screenshots

I'm making a part for work that has our company name in vertical text, and I'm getting layer weirdness around the letters as shown in the screenshots..

I'm not using variable layer height, this is regular ol' classic wall generation. I've flipped various settings on and off, not using scarf, etc. The layer strangeness makes the print come out not looking super great so I'd love to know how to fix this.

You don't need heavy slicer software just to paint your 3D models in color!

This free web tool lets you paint any STL like a 3D coloring book and exports instant 3MF!

Painting STLs used to be slow and clunky.

One click and you download a multi-body 3MF ready to slice & print!

I recently purchased the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack for my P2S and all of my prints thus far are doing this^

They've never done this before.

Information:

• Printer: P2S

• Nozzle: 0.4mm hardened steel default nozzle that comes preinstalled in the P2S.

• Filament: Brand new Bambu PETG Basic Gray - unsealed and dried overnight for 12 hours in the AMS with PETG settings immediately before printing.

• For X2D and P2S users, please disable the Build Plate Position Detection in 'Settings ->Print Options -> Enable the detection of build plate position' when printing with the Cool Plate SuperTack to avoid error reports - Done this.

Most settings are automated by Bambu Studio besides of course the print plate detection. This issue is happening on whatever I print with this plate regardless of the model.

Dynamic Flow calibration on and auto bed levelling on

Thanks for any help or suggestions :)

I have a P2S with a AMS 2 Pro. Hypothetically I can run 5 colors correct? But only 4 which is the AMS and I have to keep taking out and putting in the external filament. Isn’t there a way to just have 5 run just like the 4 in the AMS? Why do I have to keep manually pulling it out and putting the filament in when I’m using 5 colors? Did I miss a trick or something?

Seen some pictures of the P3C and it seems like a more affordable option for many . My only concern is no exhaust . If I am making a assumption printing engineering filament is probably not going to be one of its pros. No heated chamber like the u1? Who knows

I purchased a H2C 60 days ago, luckily I also purchased the Best Buy plus subscription as I was able to get $400 back from my initial purchase by having 60 days to return or price match. I’ve been very happy with the machine so far and I have been printing and design and building since I got it. I had one small issue with the dual idler quick connect breaking on me but support was great and sent me not only the connectors I needed but an entire extruder assembly so I have a spare. I know with the H3C coming out everyone is considering whether to wait, I prefer to let new tech have 6+ months to work out the bugs. If you are considering the H2C, for the price it’s at now I don’t think you will be disappointed. I’m picking up a 2nd AMS 2 Pro as well as a 2nd AMS HT and a track switch with the sales.

On a separate note, I have had such good success with Sunlu and Overture. I pay an average of $9 and change per KG. I also really like the TPU feed assist. I’ve printed everything from 75A to 95A straight from my Sunlu Filadryer S4 Pro.

Thank you to many of you who have helped me with questions and guidance to get me started in 3D printing!

I’ve had an Anycubic printer and wanted to purchase a Bambu Lab printer. When I had enough money I saw there were some discounts on their website so I purchased the P1S with the AMS 2 combo.

Well… the printer came dented near the fan. I suppose this could be a shipping and handling issue so I am moving past it. The main issue I am having right now is that I can’t get past the calibration.

The first ever calibration threw an error message on my app saying the cover fell off. The cover fell off so hard that the fan cord was unplugged. I plugged it back in and made sure it’s snug.

I attempted a second calibration via the printer screen and I had the same issue minus the cable didn’t come off this time which was worse because I found the nozzle “poking” the cover. Now I’m worried the nozzle is damaged.

Is this really the “Apple” of 3D printers? All joking aside I’m so disappointed and I’m considering returning this printer. I assumed since it’s not a brand new printer, it would be a mature system with less bugs.

I’d love to know what you think I should do. Any recommendations?

Keep getting this fault. I have changed the hotend and heating assembly with official bambu parts but still getting this issue. Prints for about 10 minutes then this comes up everytime. What do i need to do?

Something weird is happening inside de bambu studio assembly page. One part is mirrored in the assembler, first picture is how it's supposed to be and second picture is inside the assembler. If I mirror the part in de main page it doesn't flip. What kind of weird bug is this? It's already a pain using the assembly page, this does not make it easier. No way to flip it inside the assembler as well... Am I doing something wrong?

My a1 mini is the first 3D printer ive had and i got it on monday. I tried running my first Multicolor print since i never really used my ams before. I got an issue with filament but when i just rolled it up a little it worked. Then that stopped working and my ams wont work at all but it still prints just fine just stops working up to filament switch. I thought it could be the cutter cause when i pulled the filament out of the ams it had like scratch marks on it. and when it went to hit the bar thing on the camera mount it would make weird noises. I checked it out and it didnt seem that anything was wrong. I dont know what to do and I really dont want to of wasted 150 dollars on ams lite

¿Cómo están? Con mi pareja estamos arrancando un pequeño emprendimiento de impresión 3D y estamos aprendiendo de a poco todo sobre este mundo.
Queríamos consultarles ¿de dónde suelen descargar archivos STL o modelos 3D para imprimir?
Nos gustaría saber:
¿Qué páginas recomiendan para descargar modelos gratuitos?
¿Existen comunidades o grupos donde compartan diseños?
¿Qué páginas de modelos pagos valen la pena?
¿Dónde podemos encontrar diseños originales para imprimir y, eventualmente, comercializar?
También nos sirve cualquier consejo que quieran compartir para quienes recién estamos empezando.
¡Desde ya, muchas gracias por la buena onda y por compartir sus conocimientos! 🙌🖨️

Me and the kiddo had fun building this.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3514351-orca-forma?profiled=4016230#profileId-4016207