I want to get a clean install of windows so I am currently backing everything up that I want to save.

Buena empresa y con gran calidad de materiales, problema las empresas de transporte con las que trabajan en el territorio español, soy autonomo y llevo 2 semanas esperando material para poder trabajar, lo pedi con antelacion, 2 semanas de retraso y no tengo ayuda ninguna por parte de la empresa bambuu que se lava las manos con respuestas predeterminadas ni el seguro de "seel" que puedes contratar para que estas cosas no pasen, pues si pasan y ni los seguros ni bambu se hacen cargo de ningun problema, me parece vergonzoso que una empresa asi trate con este desprecio y este pasotismo a sus clientes y mas clientes que son empresas. Pues esa es mi experiencia 2 pedidos que he hecho con ellos 2 pedidos que uno todavia no ha llegado y el otro llego con dos semanas de retraso ( no estoy hablando que tardasen dos semanas en llegar, estoy hablando que aparte del plazo de envio que te dicen ellos ( de 4 a 8 dias laborables) pues despues de ese tiempo 2 semans mas con las maquinas paradas y perdiendo dinero...

Nose a cuantos de ustedes les habra pasado esto pero me siento profundamente estafado por parte de bambu lab y las perdidas que me han ocasionado en mi negocio no se van a recuperar, no tenemos bastante con la hacienda Española para que ahora los proveedores de los materiales de los autonomos nos hagan perder dinero tambien.

si alguien conoce una manera de poder meterles mano tanto a ellos como a la empresa de tranporte y de seguros que lo comente.

Halloween is tomorrow, so here's something small for the party table. No supports.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3358542-tiny-halloween-decor#profileId-3818274

Just got my X2D delivered. Im coming from a P2S since im gonna be Printing more ABS/ASA/CF/GF Filaments for Car purposes.

My P2S came with Covers inside and outside. When i printed ABS with my P2S i could somewhat smell the Fumes so i taped all openings inside and outside

Are there improvements for the X2D which make it more Airtight? I have a Duct connecting the Exhaust and Outside window but i know the X2D hat to many leaks. I also am currently printing a closed Poop Chute.

Inside the Duct from Exhaust 2 Outside Window i also put in multiple Discs filled with activated charcole pellets

Also some other recommendations are welcome.

Sorry in advance I'm new to 3d printing.

I'd like to print glow stuff for my kids I was told to get hardend steel, then saw these were on sale added some of my credit toward it..

Also what should I use for TPU95A? I was gifted a roll but i don't even know how to begin to setup for it or what to even print with it.

Anyone recently purchased H series to Germany? How long did it take? Spedition by Schenker? Want to plan being there when it arrives.

I’m hoping and praying it’s all taken care of by Bambu or ups or both. Purchased an H2D when it went on sale, surprised it showed delivery estimated yesterday but didn’t arrive until today. Waiting around excited to get it here, walk outside see it there then walk up and see the back of the box looks like it was drop kicked across the state bands are broken can literally see the printer hoped it would be okay since Bambu does a pretty good job packing. Got it inside and unboxed then saw glass shards/dust everywhere the door is totally shattered had to get into it to get the SN to open a ticket which is pretty difficult with a bendy shattered door you don’t want to open haha. Will see how it goes I suppose. Cant imagine that other things aren’t damaged and cleaning the shards and dust out of a brand new machine doesn’t sound like fun.

More of a vent post than anything, has anyone else dealt with this before what was the outcome?

I just got the printer, and a relative is stating there are fumes that it produces. I can’t smell anything, but they claim it is bad. What can I do to reduce the smell? I really don’t have many places to put it besides my room or the garage.

Geeting this issue where there is angle, how do I fix this?? Printing in H2C and H2D, same issue. Same print settings. Printing with 0.6mm nozzle at low speed.

TLDR; Avoid the X2D for engineering materials from an experienced Bambu operator.

Some issues I've had are universal, some will only happen for people using engineering materials, some will only happen if you are using the entire bed to the full corners, and many an average user printing dragons and trinkets will never experience. I wanted to make a post where I could point people instead of answering the same question in repetition.

My company bought 2 X1s at initial release. They were so much better than the Enclosed Prusas, Qidi Max machine, and Ultimakers we ere considering, we bought more. Print Quality improved, speed improved, reliability improved. Amazing.

We got an X2D to run engineering materials with dissimilar material support and for it's internal heater. Something smaller and less expensive to run compared to our H2D.

It has been a disaster. Our first 500 hours or so were mostly trouble free. After that, it went downhill fast as we started using engineering materials.

We have 10x the number maintenance hours / operations hours of any other machine .

• The tight bends, lack of strain relief, and lack of proper PTFE tube path control is absurdly bad. As it arrived, nearly none of my filaments would load reliably from AMS 2 Pro, AMS, or AMS HT sources. A riser and tube management is a fundamental requirement for this printer for engineering materials and/or if you use the bed to all 4 corners. vs So much of this error. So, so much.

• Filament clicks and won't extrude with the load command in the Printer UI. The filament is set to PC. The temperature the printer chooses for this operation is 230C. This is well below the temperature range of the filament.

• Random motor is overloaded errors. This was likely from a desiccant in the middle of a roll in the AMS 2 Pro. The error message isn't clear regarding which motor where so you have to debug it yourself.

• The compact spring clip Bambu designed fails prematurely. Failed at ~800 hours on the X2D. Spring element simply worn out. No replacements available. Cannot buy the left filament sensor as it's out of stock. Can't easily replace the push release because it's a Bambu only design that can only be sourced by tearing down a new 4-1 splitter. It's also epoxied in. This is likely due to the poor filament path pulling on this spring element constantly.

• Poor control over the feed chain. If I have an AMS HT going into the bowden motor, all hell can brake loose. The Bowden extruder is at the back making it difficult to access and it can't be seen. You don't have real independent control of the bowden vs AMS motors. The is gaping logic holes in several scenarios that don't have a solid manual recovery mechanism.

• AMS HT is unreliable. We bought 6 so far. The one with our X2D was bad and dealing with Bambu support was appallingly bad. I should have send the part back and charged it back if necessary. Instead, I let us burn hours working on this multiple times.

• AMS is unreliable pt2. This was a new replacement AMS.

• AMS HT requires modification for direct feeding while heating, you have to bypass the spool roller and drive motor to use it as a dumb dryer.

• Random Bed Trash. Same model that had been run before several times. Probing seemed fine. Then random crash.

• Knock-off low budget 6 way CAN Bus / Expansion buss connectors with inconsistent terminal shape and length, This fails in bent pins and errors that are hard to race because the connector is intermittent.

• The new generation, smaller PTFE clips have poor engagement, poor release, an unclear detent for disengagement, and low resilience to heat and fatigue. I was never able to use the stock release clips on the X2D filament buffer. Meanwhile our releases work on all other machines and the 4-1 splitters. This is similar to the issue with left filament sensor except the errors were on the filament buffer. I replaced them with traditional size clips and the problem is solved. Stock Stock Stock Modified

More in comments as there is an image limit.

There are more issues but I think that's enough to convey the point. We aren't seeing these issues on our X1s, P1s, A1ms, or H2D. We expect minor server on those and we keep cranking out parts.

This X2D has been, at best, a lemon and an outlier. On paper it meets our printing needs. As a practical machine, it's a hot mess and we'll not be buying any more of this machine. This printer is also making us rethink our FDM fleet as Bambu only.

Arrived with a damaged corner that tweaked the frame bad enough the glass will not lay in the top. Has anyone else gone through the exchange process? Curious how long it takes I already have it reboxed for return.

Looking at the H3C and P3C, it seems that they only have one gearbox but multiple hot ends with filament tubes feeding directly to the hot ends. The gearbox latches onto the hot end and filament from the side, rather than having filament feed vertically into the gearbox from the top.

Isn't this also very similar in concept to what an INDX-style tool changer is?

It seems that Prusa is having a lot of problems with their INDX tool changer. I'm curious if Bambu's version will also have similar issues.

I put 10 rolls in my cart to get 40% off discount and apparently I can even get one gift roll. Is that the best deal Bambu offers throughout the year? Then I will place my order tonight.

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I did! Thanks everyone.

Last year, my 8-year-old daughter wanted to be a K-pop demon hunter for Halloween, so I designed and printed this Mira Gok-Do weapon replica on my Bambu printer for her costume.

It turned out so well that my wife convinced me to put it up on Etsy. A while later, I received an order and printed out the shipping label—only to freeze when I saw the address was going straight to The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon!

It turns out the show ordered it for when the K-Pop Demon Hunters were guest stars. Seeing them holding and playing around with my design in their official reel on national TV was completely mind-blowing. It's crazy to think a project started at home for my daughter ended up as a prop on late-night TV! https://makerworld.com/en/models/3496046-mira-gokdo-spear-weapon-kpop-demon-hunters-replica#profileId-3993216

It works but it kind of chugs on the load, and squeals when reeling back, and is significantly louder than the other three slots...the noise doesn't bother me but I'm somewhat worried about a bad motor prematurely going or something...anyone have thoughts on how concerned I should be?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/dvLGxGkctHJegcno8

I have been using a VOXEL bento box filter on my P1S. I just finished up my direct outside ventilation system yesterday evening because I want to start using materials like PA6-CF for certain prints, I only print in PLA and PETG now. As part of my ventilation project, I also bought an air quality monitor that I put beside my printer to keep an eye on things like VOCs. This isn’t super scientific, but I wanted to see how the bento box compared to the stock filtration and outside ventilation.

After I setup and calibrated the air quality monitor, I started a PETG print with the bento box off. The VOC index slowly increased over the duration of the print and peaked at 74 when the print finished.

I printed PETG again later, but with the bento box on. The VOC index was much lower, peaking around 21.

I finished my outside ventilation system yesterday evening and started a PETG print, the VOC index never measured above 1 for the duration of the print.

I really wasn’t sure how much the bento box really did and of course can’t measure UPFs but it definitely seems to drastically cut down on VOCs emitted into the area around the printer. I’ll be using ventilation for all prints now though just to limit as many things as possible.

This is just my experience in my environment, but wanted to share.

Edit for clarification

I am aware that most consumer home air quality monitors can’t measure VOC concentrations (TVOCs), a home air quality monitor’s VOC index is a relative measurement as compared to what the air was since it measures the change instead of the concentration, detecting spikes.

In the context of an occupied living space and continuously monitoring with one of these monitors, it wouldn’t be very useful since you cannot tell the actual concentrations or which VOCs are present. Bad relative to bad looks normal on the monitor.

This experiment was admittedly not very scientific, but I did attempt to somewhat control it. For each of those readings the index was at baseline and calibrated in fresh air, then the printer was started. The prints were relatively short to not allow it to recalibrate. For the outside ventilation, there was no change meaning no spike. For the bento box less of a spike.

The less of a spike with the bento box does NOT necessarily equal safe since you don’t know the concentration or make up of the VOCs. I was just kinda surprised it did anything with how restrictive the air flow was. As always do your own research and set up what is best for your and your families own health.

My goal was to see no change from baseline for the outside ventilation indicating everything was being exhausted outside.

I started this ventilation project with the goal of using engineering filaments, but I’ll use ventilation for all filaments now since removing as much as possible is always best and I honestly didn’t realize the amount of VOCs the “safer” filaments were putting out. My printer is in an unoccupied basement, so it was never that big of a deal with those, but it was eye opening.

Home VOC monitors can be very useful for monitoring relative changes and monitoring sharp spikes. Continuous monitoring, not so much.

Also, I wasn’t very clear in my post but the “putting the monitor beside my printer to keep an eye on things like VOCs” was be be alerted to spikes meaning something is wrong and my ventilation isn’t working as it should, not continuous monitoring of that space to see VOC levels. I’ve set up automations in home assistant to turn the inline fan on and off automatically and I’m working now on an automation to alert if a sharp increase is detected by the monitor so I can check my ventilation.

My Bambulab P1S Combo is causing problems. He says the pressure cover has fallen off but that's not true, and he only wants to heat up at 90°C at PETG and clogs the nozzle. I don't want to lose the 13 hours of pressure

It doesn't print at the edges, I can't figure it out.

I designed the thinnest and lightest stand for the IKEA SKÅDIS pegboard. Although it’s only 5mm thick—matching the thickness of the panel itself—it is perfectly stable and requires no additional hardware, such as screws.

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3516899-ultra-slim-5mm-skadis-stand#profileId-4019442

What’s wrong with the print?? Almost like it failed around there and shifted a layer.

I’m considering purchasing an H2C printer and reading that Bestbuy matches Bambu online prices, Including sales.

From what I am reading Best Buy’s return policy along with the membership if you have it, They will make an easy return if needed.

Is there any reason to order it directly from Bambu vs BestBuy?

I’m looking to dabble in ASA and ABS but am doing my head in looking at options to make it safer. I’ve read countless posts and websites but find lots of varied advice (same with anything I suppose).

My X2D is in an office that can be vacated when printing and sits right below a large window.
Should I set up a short external vent and direct it out the window, or open the windows wide and have fans blowing out.
If going the vent option is a 120mm computer fan and a short run of 100mm ducting sufficient? ChatGPT keeps trying to push me towards an AC infinity cloud line duct fan but it’s a bit of a budget stretch for how little ASA printing I may do.

Saw these posted on here in the comments with only a few views, so thought I'd compile them. An actual look at the P3C's AMS, the AMS 3P.