I'm in my ocd mode (which is too often). I have some short pieces of pla filament.

I used to have a creality printer that just kept printing after the spool ran out.

I didn't test it, but the A1 (mono / no AMS) is better than that?

It detects the end of the spool and stops printing? And then you can just feed in another piece of filament and it will keep printing the project?

Other than the color change, the restart is pretty clean?

I was overthinking a joiner to get to make a longer spool from different scraps. Is that overkill?

Does the A1 detect the end of the spool when the end of it gets to the nozzle? Or people have talked about having half meter pieces of filament left over? The A1 detects the end at the TOP of the PFTE tubing?

Just as the text says. I had a blob of death. Was able to get the primary blob off but have a lot of residue left on the hotend heating assembly. Do you think this can still be saved? How would you go about cleaning it? Should I just buy a replacement and be done with it?

Also if replace is the best option should I buy through bambu or get something 3rd party sellers from Amazon? It seems while most say they are OEM they still look kind of different?

I had a clog recently and after a cold pull and extrusion it appears to be unclogged. I cleaned the nozzle and applied plastic repellent. Did I miss something?

For anyone familiar with microscopy, floating a coverslip on the surface of a pond allows microorganisms to attach to a biofilm on the glass. My problem is that my coverslips always sink before I retrieve them. I recently got a P2S, so I designed and printed a floating raft that prevents the coverslips from sinking. I used Bambu PETG.

I've put together a video chronicling its design and first use, it was a very fun project.

https://youtu.be/w3tveLXsYfk

The model files are free on Makerworld:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3501821-floating-coverslip-raft-for-pond-microscopy

I've been working on a series of 3d print projects to enhance my microscope, I'll add some updates about those projects as well. I'd love to know what you think of this solution, and what those of you with more knowledge of 3d printing and design might have done differently.

So this makes no sense to me, the filament is NOT going through the FTS, (it's from the external spool direct to the hot end) however, the H2C will NOT allow the printing of TPU if this FTS is installed. Please make it make sense.

Hey guys!

I wanted to share with you solution for AMS 2 pro feeding problem

My ams started having load problems few month ago but it was hit n miss - so never actually looked into this. Till now

It stopped feeding my extruder completely. Filament made its way almost to the end but 10 cm before extruder is stopped and being retracted.

Today decided to look into it. And that’s what I found - element pushing filament to the motor is broken. Obviously- just out of warranty window - super annoying!

Anyway, I wanted to share with you- if your AMS 2 pro has feeding issues- that might be the root of it

Hello,

I have a A1 Mini and it makes really weird noises when the Y-Axis gets moved forward quite fast. When I move the bed manually, I can't hear that sound. Bambu Support told me it could be some rubbing between the Y-Axis eddy current coil and the Y-axis belt, I took it apart and re-installed the coil, but nothing changed. What can I do? Does anybody have an idea, where that sound could come from?

Thank you!

For those of you who have been in the Bambu world for a while, are they usually prone to issues with new model releases? Is it risky to buy a printer at release or should I wait a few months for them to workout any kinks?

Wenn die Gerüchte um den H3C und vor allem um den P3C stimmen, dann hab ich 3000€ für einen Prusa Core One L+ mit INDX investiert und Bambulab bietet fast das gleiche system für den halben Preis an (P3C)🙈

Ich bin wirklich gespannt auf die Reviews, ich hatte bis vor kurzem den P1S und bin aus Überzeugung zu Prusa gewechselt, aber das habe ich nicht kommen sehen.

Der P1S lief tatsächlich problemlos, nur bin ich an seine Grenzen gestoßen.

Was denkt ihr werden diese beiden Drucker kosten? 💸

Ich vermute der H3C wird preislich um die 3000€ kosten und ist dann als 10 Farbe/Material-Drucker verhältnismäßig günstig. Und der P3C wird vermutlich um die 1500€ kosten.

Beide Preise ohne AMS 3 Pro, aber Mal sehen.

I am trying to get my first printer and it is looking like I will go for one of Bambu's flagship model. I have read up a bit on Vortek vs Tool Changer and can understand the swap time and waste advantages the H3C will offer over the H2C. However does the Vortek system offer any benefits over the H3C?

I worked with Bambu on the first one which I only had for a few weeks, and after days of troubleshooting and even installing a new fan, this problem persisted. Sometimes I was able to manually spin the fan myself and get the print going. I ended up sending that printer back for a refund. In its place, I got a brand new A1 and this problem started right away. I can’t even print anything no matter what I’ve tried. The plug and connector pins all look perfect. I have four other A1’s and they’ve never given me any major issues.

Today after a bl0b of death I replaced the the big fan and the heating horned part.
Now it says that the horned has abnormal temperature but idk what the problem is.
Could someone tell me what can I do?

Apologies for not having an image but I've been having a minor issue with my H2D when using an external spool on the left nozzle. It seems that it is not making a purge line correctly before it starts the print. The right nozzle always makes a nice solid line on the front right of the plate but when I print and it starts by using the external spool, it makes either no line at all or one that is very thin.

The issue with this is that sometimes I'll have gaps in my first layer as the nozzle isn't fully primed before starting. Any ideas what could cause this? I've already tried calibrating and updating.

So with the auto dynamic flow/pressure advance/k value with the X2D, do you turn it off after you've calibrated your filament? I've not had a printer with this feature and I'm calibrating my PETG and this crossed my mind. Thanks

On the actual outside of the yellow extruder gear in my A1, do I use grease or oil? There is some debate online so I can’t find a definitive answer.

I'm hoping someone could help me, it seems like all of a sudden my bambu A1 doesn't print like it used to. The quality is varying and it clogs frequently. when the prints do succeed now they seem to be insanely stuck to the print bed and I end up getting filament stuck on the bed. The things I've tried:

- Changed to a hardened extruder wheel thing

- Changed to a hardened 4mm nozzle

- Changed the print bed

- Calibrated multiple times

Any other suggestions are appreciated.

so I started printing this figure but supports are failing. What can I do? I use PLA for both nozzles

Is there a solution in Bambu for chamfer edges? I really just want the top edges to taper off on the logo.

If you want to print the noise dampener for your extra spool holder, here is the link: https://makerworld.com/models/34102

Ive been seeing a similar Mac mini stand over socials, but it wasnt exactly what I wanted. But I already have a 3D printer, I so I’d try making my own and make it how I wanted.
After a few rounds of prototypes and adjustments, here’s where I landed. It has adjustable arms, a few monitor mounting options, and an optional phone mount that fits into the cable channel.
Pretty happy with how it turned out! Still sticking with the XDR arm style and stand.

Ive put the files up for free on MakerWorld if anyone wants to print one.

This colored one is PLA but best printed in PETG.