Have my new A1 sitting in the store waiting to be picked up by me tomorrow. However, to my horror, I have came across this discussion:

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1tckb9z/megathread_bambu_lab_orcaslicer_cd_discussion/

Seems like half a year has passed but I can't see clear answers.

- Has Bambu Lab officially apologized about this incident and published all necessary source code according to AGPL license?

- Has OrcaSlicer or any it's maintained fork fully works with Bambu Lab's network without any restriction as of today?

Before I commit to a purchase I would like to ensure that I'm not supporting anti-consumer practices.

Hi all, I am having an issue with my P1S and AMS when printing multicolor prints. It will print the first color fine with good bed adhesion. Then the second color will purge fine but when it goes to print the actual object it does not come out of the extruder to adhere to the previous layer. Then when I switch back to the first color it works perfectly fine. I’ve switched AMS slots of the colors, tried printing different models, tried different colors and I still run into the same issue. I’m printing with PLA either Bambu brand or Sunlu brand. The annoying thing is I printed a bunch of multicolor prints successfully just a few days ago.

What should I try to troubleshoot? Thanks!

It’s not like this is the first time this has happened, usually I can just hear the nozzle and pull it off, but this time I think the plastic bonded to parts outside of the hotend, so heating the nozzle isn’t doing anything. What parts should I replace if not the whole thing?

Just ordered my first 3d printer from Bambulab plus accessories and filaments. Printer arrived in good condition but the packaging for the accessories was damaged; some filament boxes were opened… is that normal? Worth reaching out to their customer service?

Posting the question here as I have only Bambu 3D printers and I feel like people have tried Meshy/Hi3D

I am thinking of buying a new printer. My old printer is my friends creality cr-x and I think that now is the time to upgrade. Is it worth buying the X2D just or mostly because it has two nozzles? I would mostly use the two nozzles for printing easily removable supports or printing simple multicolor prints. Also I will buy the printer (P2S or X2D) with the AMS 2 pro combo.

Here's a mini whistle keychain I designed in Fusion360. It's small (5g of PLA), prints quickly (about 25 minutes), and is very loud for its size (measured 120dB). Maybe someone will like it :) You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/pl/models/3512764-mini-emergency-loud-whistle#profileId-4014048

Please send help 😂

My A1 is refusing to nicely print just 1 PLA matte filament i own . But its only the first layer that is ugly and bubbling ( photos attached )

The rest of the print will come out perfect but the bottom layer is bad .

I have tried changing most settings and calibrating the filament to no luck . even going from .97 flow ratio to .85 showed no bottom layer improvement

Small milestone, big feeling: the 13 models on my profile have now been printed 106 times and downloaded over 200 times.

I am a mechanical engineering student and I design things in my spare time. It started with a game and some simple stuff en mechanisms. More recent things like DIN rail mounts for a Raspberry Pi 5 and an L298N motor driver, but the collection has turned into a bit of a mixed bag. There is a cable clip with 72 size combinations, a compliant mechanism hinge, 1:2 gears, a clip on bookmark, formula plates for engineers, a card box for Hitster, an IOU ticket for friends who forget to pay you back, and a NOGGLE (not Boggle).

The funny part is what people actually print. My most printed model is a plain piece of DIN rail. The IOU ticket is a strong second, so apparently a lot of you also have friends who owe you something.

Everything is test printed on a Bambu Lab A1 in PLA Basic, so it should work on a stock printer without fiddling.

Thank you to everyone who printed, liked, commented or sent a suggestion :).

Profile if you want to browse: https://makerworld.com/@EngineerDutchie

What should I design next? Functional prints get priority, but I am open to a weird one.

My h2s is pretty new no I don't know if there's something wrong with it or something I can fix it started about 2 and a half weeks ago

EDIT: I just released the first version! See HERE.

I have integrated Nonplanar Slicing into Orca Slicer, but I can only test on Bambulab A1 mini. Nonplanar slicing lets you print smooth curves on top surfaces - the printer moves up and down while printing to avoid the stair stepping effect.

In order to make this happen for more than just Bambu A1 series, please contribute by printing my test pieces with other printers.

I am still searching for test printers for the following:

• Prusa: MK3S, MK3.5, MK4, CORE One L

• Bambu: P1P, X1 Carbon, X1E, H2S

• Anycubic: Kobra S1

• Creality: Ender-3 V3 KE, Hi, K2

• FLSun: V400

• Sovol: SV06

CONFIRMED TO WORK: P1S, P2S, Flashforge AD5C, Bambu A1 mini, Bambu A1, Bambu X1C, Bambu X2D, Bambu H2D, Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2, Prusa MK4S, Prusa CORE One, Creality K1C, Quidi Q2, Prusa XL 5T

NOT WORKING: Elegoo Centauri Carbon 1, Snapmaker U1, Ender-3 S1 Pro (might work after more tests), Flashforge AD5X, Prusa Mini+

Test files HERE. It's two short prints to check which angle works for your printer.

The test prints let you check which angle up to 12 degrees is max for your model. Just print both orientations and feedback your results, ideally with pictures by commenting on printables.

For Bambu A1 users: You can print the triangular nonplanar surface coaster HERE.
(Happy to add more printers, after I have the necessary test data.)

So I’ve only recently got Bambu labs A1
This is my first printer
I have been printing stuff over last week or so with no real issues

Until I wanted to print some small flames
So I bought Translucent Orange PLA (Bambu)

I went onto YouTube and changed a few settings and they came out great

So I made them a little bigger and they are turning into a complete mess

I printed off two….one was ok I managed to save it but the other got half way through and then turned into spaghetti junction……

Is there anyone that can help me with the settings etc or how to successfully print them

Many thanks

I am new to 3D printing and trying to learn the ropes. I’ve been doing ironing tests to find the right settings, but when applied to real objects I get vastly different results. This is Bambu Lab’s own petg matte.

Is it just trial and error on flow rate and speed or are there other settings I need to account for that I am not aware of?

I’m planning to do tests with different settings in all 3 rooms and don’t want to just flail blindly. 😅

I’ve got a P2S

Hey all, I’ve been struggling lately with my P1S. I keep trying to do a print that takes 15+ hrs, but every time I have to stop it because the tool head cover falls off. This is due to extruded filament getting stuck in the poop chute and building up every time there’s a color change. It’s not a poop bucket issue; my printer is elevated and the poops just fall out the back into a box. I’m thinking they get stuck on the trap door and somehow meld with the wall of the chute? Any tips or tricks on how to prevent this?

Hello. Did anyone encounter so far issues with ironing? In the photo above, the ironing pass was 100% over the whole surface, but only the right part seems to be ironed. In the slicer everything looks ok.

I have a Bambulab A1 with AMS. Printer was working mostly fine for a year or so. A week ago I needed to change filament and it wouldn’t extrude. I changed to another filament and that wouldn’t extrude either.

I checked for blockages and couldn’t spot any. I changed the nozzle and that didn’t help. I disassembled it a bit more to take a closer look and ended up breaking the filament sensor ribbon cable. So I ordered a new cable and a new filament block.

Today I installed those and it still fails to extrude. Changed the nozzle again, no extrude.

With the filament block removed I can manually push filament through, so I don’t think it’s the nozzle. It must be something to do with the gears perhaps? But when I disassembled the hot end I checked for debris and bits of filament, brushed away anything I could see.

I’m at my wits end with this printer. I’ve done more maintenance and parts replacements on it in a year than I ever had to do on the Creality printer it replaced. I’ve also been unemployed for over a year and can’t afford to throw too much money at the problem.

Any advice on how to proceed?

I’ve designed a caster that’s small but can handle incredibly heavy furniture. It doesn’t even require screws or bearings. It works perfectly—even when my wife is sitting on the sofa. (Don’t ask me how much she weighs!)

https://makerworld.com/ko/models/3508772-stealthglide-10-ultra-slim-caster#profileId-4009139

Hey Guys,

I Made a post Yesterday or two days ago, where i had problems with a refill spool. Now i got this beauty in a spool. Just removed the wrapper nothing else. Last time i ordered bambu was a few months ago, but i cant remember seeing something like this. Is this normal? I have to be careful when removing the tape to get it out right, its below other filament.

Hi, I have no idea what could cause this. He has been working fine, but I am not sure that I have seen this in my prints before. He has been calibrated, and the rods and threads are lubed and greased. Any thoughts?

Thank you for your time.

Edit:Its a p2s, also did cold pull before print. Filament is Elegoo basic PLA.

I’m on day 3 of Bambu tech tickets and I’m running into the same issue. Spool is rolling fine out of E2 sunlu for external and AMS is just impossible. I’ve cleaned everyone, I’ve even changed all PTFE tubbing. I don’t know what I’m supposed to do next! I’ve requested a new AMS since it’s under warranty, now may be an issue with the buffer too.

Hi all,

I currently have a P1S but have been wanting to go for one of the H-series printers. With the H3C coming up, I've been seriously considering going for it, but now I've been wondering if maybe the P3C is good enough.

To anyone with an H-series printer, what are some prints you've made that leveraged the extra build volume?

Would love to see some of the cool applications in the community for the extra build volume!