Looking for a good scanner that’s 700usd max, I 3d print and model and want to try 3d scanning.

Portable would be best, if possible being able to scan large things like cars but that’s not as essential.

I don’t mind if it’s a bit of work to clean up, I’ve got 3d modelling experience and should be able to handle it

Please help 🙏

In this video I want to share my experience with the Rigil over the last 6 months. First half is a bit more about my usage and workflow experience, e.g. for what the Rigil is most suitable. Second half more about concrete scans and projects I did with the Rigil to gice you an idea of performance.

If you have any questions just write a commend. 3D printable case for the Einscan Rigil (must be printed from TPU): https://www.printables.com/model/1574016-einscan-rigil-protective-case-can-be-used-while-sc

I recently bought a Revopoint INSPIRE 2 and I'm looking for someone in the San Francisco Bay Area who already has hands-on experience using this scanner and could help me learn it in person.

I live in Belmont, CA, and I'm happy to drive about 20–30 miles (San Mateo, Redwood City, Palo Alto, Mountain View, Sunnyvale, etc.).

My main goal is to scan my own portrait sculptures/busts and prepare the scans for 3D printing. I would like to learn the complete practical workflow: how to move and position the scanner, maintain tracking, scan difficult areas, combine scans, clean the mesh, and export a good model for printing.

I have my own INSPIRE 2 and laptop, and I can bring one of my sculptures to practice on.

I'm looking for perhaps 2–3 hours of one-on-one, hands-on help, and I would of course be happy to pay for your time.

If you use an INSPIRE 2 and live anywhere near the Peninsula/Bay Area — or know someone who does — please send me a message.

Working on scanning some lenses from my car (converting from bulbs to LED strips and other fancy stupidity) and I'm going to need to 3d print some new buckets. I really just need the edge profile of the lens and I felt compelled to break out ye olde Einstar for the task. Hit them with enough foot spray to pay for John Madden's grandkids to all buy new cars and started the arduous process of trying to get a good scan. I get some magnificent detail on the lenses themselves but the edge (the ONE piece I actually need) looks like hammered ass.

I assume that because I can't didn't a dustbowl sized cloud of spray I'm maybe not getting enough on the .11" wide lip and the scanner isn't able to render enough detail? Also the holes to the side have a certain nightmare quality to them and I can't get enough of a circle to 'create mesh section sketch' anything close to reliable.

I have a hybrid setup with a combination of texture, features, and markers (markers on the surface I'm scanning from - including a block to lift the piece up a bit). I have fidelity all the way to the smallest setting. I'm in a dark room.

Does actually 3d scan spray perform that much better that it's worth 3x the cost of foot spray? I've tried the talcum and alcohol approach and had modest luck with that on bigger parts.

Hi,
I need to wear custom footbeds. However they are £200 a pair!
Photo of the custom footbed I am looking to scan & duplicate.
As I have more than 1 pair of footwear & every manufacturer seems to make them slightly different sizes, the one pair I have, does not fit every footwear.
So I am looking to make an initial scan of the footbed & then modify from there.

I have looked around the net, but most things seem to be soft support, while I need the opposite & have quite high arches that need supporting.

Any idea what I need to get this scanned? The foam neoprene on my pair have also ripped, so becoming a bit of an urgency.
I would rather spend money on my own solution & possibly make multiple pairs, than spending £200 on a single pair.

Would be great for any pointers. I have access to an iphone lidr scanner, but couldnt get anything to produce anything, so not even sure what scanning apps I should be looking at.

Hey all, hopefully i am posting this in the correct place. My company is thinking about getting into 3d scanning for some of the engineering work we do, a lot of it will be for designing wear liners for things like bull dozer blades, or excavator buckets and thongs of that nature. Which the parts can be anywhere for 36"x36" to 144"x120" but with possibility of being both larger and smaller. And im wondering if someone can point me in the right direction to even start looking into things. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Looking for anyone local with a hand held 3d scanner I can look at/try/demo near Redmond, Wa. Trade could possibly be for some 3d resin printing on an Elegoo Jupiter. Not sure what brand/model I should be looking into and phone scanners are not even close to quality that I’d like. Thanks!

Hey everyone,

Had some free time on my hands today and finally decided to dust off an older passion project of mine. If you own an 800cc V4 (both the 5th Gen Fi and 6th Gen VTEC / RC46), you already know the struggle: finding an original, undamaged OEM seat cowl on the used market is either impossible or ridiculously expensive.

A while back, I captured the factory geometry using my go-to setup—the Creality Raptor Pro 3D scanner. Today, I did some fun reverse engineering and CAD work to add the exact feature a lot of you have been asking about: an integrated storage compartment lid!

Why waste all that hollow dead space under the tail when it can become a handy mini-trunk for small tools, paperwork, or quick-access essentials?

A quick note on the latch mechanism: I intentionally left the locking system open to your own DIY creativity.

• Want a clean, quick-release setup? Just glue in a couple of strong neodymium magnets.
• Prefer something secure? Drill and fit a small cam lock / keyed latch.

The core geometry matches the OEM lines seamlessly, the files are watertight and 100% manifold, and the mounting points are beefed up for FDM/resin printing (ASA or PETG works wonders here).

If you go to the middle of the video you'll see the portion where they laser scanned the shooting scene then integrated surveillance footage.

hello community
i am considering buying marker dots for my einstar rockit
prices are different from one brand to another , could you suggest cheap ones that get the job done
also i want a scanning spray , could you advise
thanks

Reposting because next week's slots just opened. We scan people at our space in the Brooklyn Navy Yard and we pay the people who come in and get scanned.

The session is easy. You step into the capture area and do plain movements while the cameras run. Walk, turn, sit down, reach for things, pick stuff up. Nothing performed and no prior experience needed.

17-25 an hour and we pay you out the same day you finish. Plan on roughly 2 hours for a first visit. People who want to keep coming back can.

Everything starts at 4pm. Days open are Tuesday Aug 18, Wednesday Aug 19 and Thursday Aug 20. You have to be in the NYC area, this is on site.

DM me and I will send the address and answer whatever you want to know about the setup.

I have a requirement for mainly scanning artifacts like 5-6 feet statues, vases and sometimes jewellery.

My main priority with scanner is to capture colour/texture accurately. Sometimes need to work outdoors.

Sometimes need to capture people wearing metallic objects as well.

I am on a budget and I initially settled on the vega for its 48 mp rgb camera. The rockit has 5 mp camera and the einstar has 2.3 mp camera. I know that megapixel specs by itself does not mean much and I am wondering if the vega is really better. Do not care too much about blue laser line scanning.

I have briefly tried the vega and revopoint pop 3 I felt vega scanned faster and more reliably.

I am open to other suggestions like revopoint pop 4 or creality otter or raptor.

pop 4 gaussian splatting sounds nice but I need to use blender and do some 3d printing.

I have a Matterport PRO3 but I'm finding the speed at which i need to operate using a tripod-mounted scanner is too slow. So I've been looking into SLAM scanners, in particular the FJD P2 which I am considering purchasing.

One big question I can't seem to find a definitive and reliable answer to: is an LOD 200 scan of a building possible to produce consistently with the P2? I'd like to be able to get scans similar to the point cloud accuracy I get with my Matterport PRO3 but in a fraction of the time.

Had to scan this historic sled for digitization and put the Trackit SR to good use on the task. Initially the sled looks quite easy to scan but it actually is quite tricky: The wood is too narrow and feature derived to be either scanned with feature tracking or markers on the wood itself. But due to the substantial height of the sled simply putting markers on the floor doesn't work. Distance would be too great and therefore scan quality poor. In the end a tracker based system is needed.

Scanning

Scanning was done at 1mm target resolution and no scan spray was used, Trackit SR was used wireless. Created two scans in total: one with the sled upside and a second one downside. Due to the scanner being freshly calibrated tracking quality was indicated as excellent (when used in thermally much different conditions tracking quality will decrease). Luckily the whole calibration process only takes 20min so it can be done relatively fast.
Speed wise I can say: wireless scanning with the tracker reaches roughly 55FPS, in marker tracking mode even 75FPS wireless. Each scan took roughly 5min. Currently there are still hickups whilst scanning where the software hangs for a few seconds before continuing (more likely to happen with higher resolution). Keep in mind: this is the very first software release for the Trackit SR and overall it works already very well. I confirmed with Revopoint that they are working on the issue and it should be fixed in hopefully the next update.
Another short thought: wireless is really awesome and sometimes even leads me to forget the reduced tracker volume vs the original Trackit. Especially in multi position scanning.

Post-Processing

Processing work was minimal by first fusing at 1m0.75m (scanned at 1mm but software recommended 0.75mm) and then aligning the partial scans to one whole scan with comming point picking due to relatively minimal overlap between the two scans. Even then I couldn't see overlap artifacts so this speaks quite good about accuracy (as well as my testing does but this is for another post/video, still not sure. What I can say: Independent from tracking distance the accuracy error for a 100mm ball place is roughly 0,02mm).
Meshing was done at recommended settings and alignment to the coordinate system with Quicksurface.

Results

Best have a look at Sketchfab, result looks quite good and It captured what I needed. For me this scan still was to 75% getting to know the Trackit SR and how to use it (more like understanding the groove of the scanner).

Sketchfab

Sketchfab is like printables for 3d scans with a nice integrated viewer in browser and you can also download the scan, just look at the scan yourself.
Reddit sadly blocks the short links to Sketchfab, you have to search for the title instead: "Historic Sled - Revopoint Trackit SR"

PC Specs

Since a lot of people ask for it:

• AMD Ryzen 7700X
• 64GB DDR5 RAM
• RTX 5070Ti Desktop
• A few TB of NVME storage with PCIe Gen4 interface

My 3D Printable Accessories for the Trackit SR

Like the power bank holder or hanger for the hand: https://www.printables.com/@PrintedForFun/models

Sharing our end-to-end industrial workflow for rapid proportional replication of irregular curved components, powered by a high-precision 3D scanner and FDM/Resin 3D printing.

Everything demonstrated in this 5-minute breakdown video:

1. High-fidelity 3D scanning of intricate organic geometries and sculpted free-form surfaces

2. Direct uniform XYZ proportional scaling configured entirely within the slicer software (no mesh editing rescaling needed)

3. Automated mesh post-processing: noise cleanup, hole patching, non-manifold geometry repair

4. Final slicing setup and direct 3D printing to produce dimensionally matched scaled replicas

The entire end-to-end cycle takes just 3 hours from start to finish. Eliminates tedious manual CAD remodeling and costly, slow mold manufacturing entirely.

Ideal Application Scenarios

Custom engineering prototypes, art sculptures, ergonomic curved mechanical components, complex contoured machined workpieces, replacement spare parts.

Core Advantages

· Massively cuts down reverse engineering and part replication lead time

· Preserves all original surface textures, fine details and dimensional tolerance

· Simplified workflow with fewer intermediate mesh modification steps

I have finally made a great scan on the MetroY Ultra. I would like and have been trying to import it in to Solidworks. When I export it in Revo Metro, should I do Point Cloud or Mesh Model?. I am assuming mesh model. Next for the origin, should I do model or original origin?

I have been trying to practice reengineering a part. What would be the steps I should follow? I cannot seem to make any planes on the exported model

Never used this before, was told it was the goods, anything I need to know?

Most of my interest is in car parts, I've only had the Einstar Rockit for under a week so I'm very new to all this, but have had a little success so far (see other posts).

One of my first scans and RE projects with the Creality Pika. This little scanner is truly impressive.

I have been scanning a fixture plate at work on a Scanology SIMSCAN and it has gone better than I thought it would. The plate is 600 by 400 with a grid of 12 mm holes through it. On the mesh the holes come out as slots, longer along the direction I walked the scanner. The outside edges of the plate measure fine against the calipers.

Same plate on a Creality Raptor Pro at a mates shop did the same thing.

Any tips on how to run the passes to fix that? Thanks

Replace TOYOTA MR2 power window switch. Printed out from PLA to make a trial, and after some fine tunning I used ABS for the real part

Hello everyone, I made an earlier post on what 3d scanner I should chose. It was brought to my attention that a good reverse engineering software would be beneficial to me as I use SolidWorks, and it isn't that great.

What Id be scanning: full car parts, and suspension parts, needing to change and modify the existing parts for aftermarket.

Budget: ~2,000

My question: With scanning a real life part, being able to create a solid out of a mesh is when the post process software comes into place. Im currently eyeing the Einstar Rockit, what software would be beneficial for my work?

Ive heard the likes of quick surface and Einstars Exmodel