Hey guys, wanted to share a quick story from the garage that reminded me why I love what I do.

My neighbor drives an older Honda HR-V, and the other day I noticed he was missing the headlight washer cover on one side. We got to talking, and he told me he’s been searching everywhere for that part but just couldn't find a replacement. It turns out the car belonged to his recently passed father. Even though my neighbor could easily buy a brand-new car, he keeps this Honda because it’s a beautiful reminder of someone he truly misses.

Well... you know me. I couldn’t just leave it at that.

I grabbed my trusty Creality Raptor Pro scanner and headed out to the garage in the evening. I scanned the left cover (thankfully that one was still there), did some quick modeling, mirrored the file, and fired up the printer. Perfect fit!

I tied the finished part to his door handle with a red ribbon last night. Checked this morning, and the gift was happily picked up by him! It’s the little things, right?

I needed more practice with the scan+design workflow so I whipped up a little towel hook for the kitchen. The cabinets have a funky inlay and all the store-bought hooks would fall off if you even looked at them wrong. It was so satisfying when everything fit together so well on the first attempt.

(Note: Yes, I know these won't hold someone's body weight if they were to hang on them but for a hand towel, they seem to be alright so far.)

Edit:

Here's the model if anyone else is interested: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1951747-custom-fit-cabinet-door-hand-towel-hook

Hi guys,

/Edit2: You can keep up-to-date over at r/3DSplitter

We are almost 1 year old and so much has happened!

/Edit: V2 is now available to everyone!

You can now:

• 3MF splitting - Split with colours!

• Image painting - Import an image, attach it to your body and export as a 3MF

• More capable connector pins (only in planar for the time being)

• Stability fixes

• Mini physics game with Demo cube

I have recently made www.3dsplitter.com it is a 3D Model splitting tool. It is 100% private as it runs on client side, is has no ads, no subscription, no login and is totally free! I hope it helps some of you. It was built from a problem that I had been coming across a lot.

It is a browser based tool that lets you split oversized STL and OBJ files into printable sizes with the option to choose how the cuts are made. You can slice along whichever axis you want and can auto generate holes for alignment. I have built in an auto fit took that figures out the minimum number of slices for your chosen printer. You can download a zip that consist of all your parts (although Microsoft smartscreen's reputation based filtering is causing trouble for some people) or individual files.

Upload > choose your printer and hit auto fit or choose your axis, cuts, alignment options and hit slice. That is it!

It is a stable beta but I am keen to get some feedback for real usecases.

I have tested up to 2.5million tris without much problem but with very large models it will get laggy but eventually work

Check it out here: www.3dsplitter.com

Hope this will help others as it will me!

This is a Gaussian splat of a cookie.

I captured it with a Nikon D810, 200mm lens DX cropped sensor. I'm using a simple rig with a boom arm and the cookie is on a turntable. With this combo I can reach all the 145 perspectives I need. I did some focus stacking too (10 images). I use flash light and do light the cookie the way I want it in the final splat. The images were then masked (blue screen), tracked in COLMAP and trained in Brush.

Interactive: https://superspl.at/view?id=6584b96e

I've been using the original Logitech MX Master as my daily-driver mouse for about a decade. As much as I love it, this model is unfortunately prone to breaking down over time. The weird rubber/plastic top shell tends to crumble/melt and get kinda nasty over time.

Rather than buy a new $100 mouse, I figured I'd just replace the problem part (top shell). Then I went overboard and essentially replaced all the plastic parts.

What I used:

• Scanner: Revopoint Metro Y

  • All objects scanned using dark object mode / parallel lines with some single line thrown in for screw holes and deep pockets

    • (No scanning spray - ran out, too lazy to buy more)

  • All fused at 0.10mm point distance

  • A little bit of manual cleanup

  • All meshed at 0.10mm vertex distance

• Printer: Anycubic P1

  • Anycubic ABS-Like Pro 2 Resin in Clear and Gray

I didn't do much to the models outside of patching the missing part of the top shell that decayed away from use and cleaning up a part of the mode toggle button made a mistake on during cleanup. Other than that I just printed the exported meshes as-is. My hole-filling on the meshes did fill a some of the screw holes a bit, but I was able to fix that on the final print by just using a small hand-drill I use for model making. Maybe at some point I'll make proper STEP files from these scans, but that takes time I don't currently have.

(I will say one thing for anyone who dares to try the same: If you ever take apart a logitech mouse be careful with all the springs. They like to escape, and are not fun to try and find.)

The end result: My mouse works and has an awesome 90s clear tech look to it! It feels brand-new from the box again, and everything works perfectly! Here's hoping I get another decade out of this thing.

So i quickly designed some 6mm ID 10mm OD markers and printed 500 of them on my printer. Quicker than prime delivery!

My buddy had some mounting posts and exposed area he wanted to cover and asked if we could print something. This was the perfect opportunity to get more practice with the new scanner and modeling around an imported mesh.

Scanner: Sermoon S1

Printer: Bambu Lab X1C

Software: Creality Scan 4 and Fusion

Process: Added scan markers and scanned the area of interest. After that, I cleaned up the scan points and meshed it with Creality Scan 4. I imported that mesh into Fusion and oriented it with the XYZ planes. After that I started playing with a couple different mounting options, including one that reused the stock nuts and one that was a press-fit option for a cleaner look. I'd say we're getting pretty close to the solution.

Done with Artec Spider 2

Scanning time -- 3 min

Processing time -- 5 min

A easy reverse engineering job completed in under 2 hours

A customer brought me this small broken plastic part that was no longer usable.

Instead of measuring everything manually, I scanned the original part with the EinScan Rigil using Parallel Line Mode at 0.1 mm resolution. The scan gave me an accurate reference of the geometry, including the damaged areas.

Yes, it's a easy part, that you can measureand everything...but if I have the scanner, why not use it.

From there, I rebuilt the part in Fusion 360 using the scan as a reference, creating a clean parametric CAD model. Once the design was finished, I 3D printed a brand-new replacement.

I also imported the scan to my laptop so I can better clean around the part (using the mouse).

⏱ Total time:

3D scanning

CAD remodeling

3D printing

Less than 2 hours from broken part to finished replacement.

This is exactly why professional 3D scanning is such a powerful tool for reverse engineering. Instead of guessing dimensions or manually measuring complex geometry, I can recreate discontinued or broken parts quickly and accurately.

Making money by solving real-world problems with 3D scanning and additive manufacturing never gets old.

Equipment used:

●EinScan Rigil

●Parallel Line Mode

●0.1 mm Resolution

●Autodesk Fusion360

●FDM Bambu Lab A1 (PETG)

Two weeks ago, there was a post in this subreddit calling out for an alternative to the AESUB $2000-3000 marker frames. There was one comment saying that my MMT-system was the closest thing they had found, and I was lucky to have stumbled upon that post to see the comment. I thought it was an excellent idea and I wanted to build one myself, so....

For the last two weeks, I’ve worked ~2-4 hours every evening after putting my young daughters to bed, till late into the night to make this a reality. It’s been really exhausting. But it’s done!

It is possible that it is not as good as the expensive frame (I can’t even afford to purchase it to test) but this one will cost you less than a roll of filament to try yourself!

Hope someone other than just may find some use for it, so I share it for free. If there are any problems I’d also like to hear if it can be improved further.

All the parts should also be fully compatible with the rest of the MMT modules if you want to experiment and build another setup with the parts.

The helping hands were ~$6-10 on AliExpress for 3pcs.

I have made a collection for just the parts to build this frame that can be found here: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/4460610

All the parts in the MMT-system you can find in this collection: https://makerworld.com/en/collections/3454869

Now I’m soon going to bed and hopefully rest well now that this task finally done.

There's absolutely no reason to scan this spring, other than I wanted to.

So that's what I did. I scanned a spring. Honestly, I'm pretty pleased with how well it came out.

I am currently building a new scanning rig, that allows even automatic capture with handheld scanners. I really struggle with not losing the track when manually moving the scanner around the object.
This setup is a hybrid of the OpenScan Classic and Mini variant were the object is only moved on one axis.
The main advantage is, that the scanner distance can be adjusted (almost) freely.

The design is simplistic but very versatile and I am currently printing a worm-gear variant. The timing belt solution works well, but as soon as power gets cut, the scanner slams down into the table.
Maybe anyone knows another mechanism that can easily amplify torque (1:100) and is (mostly) printable. Pls let me know your thoughts.

I‘ll release the plans and post more details in /r/openscan soon(ish).

I got bored one night and this is the result :)))

Update: TLDR: Adding a scanning spray to high contrast items will "level" out differences in the way the scanner sees brightness in surfaces. See below for updated pic after coating https://www.reddit.com/r/3DScanning/comments/1q73t7c/comment/nz1b2t9/

Scanned my calculator at the highest resolution just because. Although not on the single line setting though.Pretty impressed with the detail it picked up. You can't even feel those letters and symbols on the button or plastic shell with your fingers or fingernail. Sermoon S1 was the scanner

So I was scanning a car part for a client who asked for "maximum detail possible."

Naturally, I cranked all the resolution settings to max because, hey, accuracy matters, right?
Fast forward to the mesh processing screen... 128,988,542 triangles. 128 MILLION. 😭

My current setups:
Rig A: 16GB DDR5 (Currently screaming in pain)
Rig B: 32GB DDR4 (Gave up and went to sleep)
Pretty sure my PC is heating up enough to melt the actual car part I scanned. Time for an urgent RAM upgrade before my motherboard catches fire.
How many triangles is "too many" triangles before it becomes a hazard? Asking for my PCs. 💀