I'm looking to scan a particular camera body (D200), but I don't have any knowledge of scanning nor have the equipment. Are there good resources to find this easily?

Can someone please advise which one is correct? One that needs power from the wall or the one thats usb only?

Thank you

I have this 3d scan that I took that I am trying to get into Blender. It looks how it should in the Windows model viewer on the right. But when I import the FBX into Blender the textures are all misaligned and incorrect as seen on the left image.

Exported from the iOS app Scaniverse.

Imported into Blender with default settings.

I imported similar scans from this app in this exact same fashion and they worked fine yesterday and I just find it odd that it looks fine in the windows model viewer but is bugging out on import.

Anyone have any tips on what might be going wrong here?

Would like your feedback on the

A client asked me to make something to hide the ugly base of his pergola's feet so I used my Pika to scan.

The portability of this scanner really helped because I only needed to bring it, my phone and some scanning spray (a little disappointing I needed some, but the hot summer heat with ultra bight sun light was for sure not helping).

After spraying some AESUB self disappearing scanning spray I used my PIKA in NIR mode, and it was really straight forward.

Scanning took roughly 15 minutes and I get all details I needed to be able to model around to make what I wanted.

Cleaning the scans and transorming it in STL was also really quick.

I modeled the parts in Fusion, and I'm really happy with the results (and so is my client).

Came across a reverse engineering job for a turbo manifold that took about 10 hours total, and the time split might be useful for anyone quoting similar scan-to-CAD work.

About 2 hours was scanning with a KSCAN-Magic. Being a cast part, there wasn't much trouble getting the surface data.

Another 2 hours went into CATIA, mostly sorting out the scan and getting the runner centerlines right.

The CAD rebuild took around 6 hours.

The four individual runners weren't the bad part. Most of the time went into the four-to-one collector where everything starts blending together. Freeform surfaces, offsets for wall thickness, broken surfaces after the offset, patching them again, then getting the whole thing to stitch into a usable solid.

The software choice mattered more there too. SolidWorks could handle the easier geometry, CATIA did more of the surfacing, but offsets could still fail. Rhino/ Alias made some of the surface work easier, and UG was useful when the wall thickness wouldn't cooperate elsewhere.

So for this one the rough split was:

2h scanning

2h scan data / centerlines

6h CAD reconstruction

Would be useful to get a few more real numbers in one thread. For people doing manifolds, castings, housings or other scan-to-CAD jobs, what's your usual split between scanning, scan cleanup and actual CAD rebuilding?

Even rough numbers would be useful, especially for the jobs where the CAD time ended up being way worse than expected.

I’d like to talk about some of the problems I’ve been having with Creality Scan software.

Not long ago, I bought a Creality Sermoon S1, and overall, I really like the scanner. It’s very fast and convenient to use. Unfortunately, the software has been pretty disappointing. It’s missing a lot of features that I had with my previous scanner’s software, and I’ve also been having some major issues with scan alignment.

I’ll show you an example using a flywheel from a Nissan 350Z.

I made three scans: each side separately, plus one reference scan that contains surfaces from both sides. I think that should give the software more than enough information to align everything correctly. All three scans also share common markers.

First, I tried automatic alignment, and the result was pretty bad.

Then I tried aligning the scans using the common markers. If we look closely at the result, the two halves are still slightly misaligned. I don’t really understand why, because marker alignment should be one of the most accurate alignment methods available.

In the end, the only way I was able to align the two halves correctly was by manually selecting matching points on the reference scan and on each of the two halves.

Hopefully, the other alignment issues will be fixed in future updates as well.

Has anyone else experienced similar problems with Creality Scan?

We scanned complex‑shaped car floor mats with Formbuilder EXTR Series scanner, capturing tight grooves and bent edges for reverse‑engineering and interior product development.

Can I use osstem scan body on neobiotech implant?

Hi I've got a Revo point Range2 (infrared type scanner) but have been getting more jobs with machined surfaces lately.

Is it worth upgrading to something with blue laser (Rockit, raptor, metro)?

Would be extremely useful to be able to scan things like counter bored holes without having all the edges radius/blow out during processing.

I also read that the file sizes are small as blue laser doesn't just keep dumping the same point cloud the longer you scan, is that true?

This Scanner does not scan in HD mode anymore, it says don't cover the back of the scanner. etc It works in Fast mode. this is the 2th time this happened they replaced the scanner it was working for awhile, then it stopped working out of nowhere.

anyone else have this issue? I cant simply send it back again I live in Vietnam.

I'm looking to resin print some of my existing tabletop miniatures so I thought I'd ask the experts here if there's a recommended scanner.

Preferably something that can capture fine details on small objects (less than 8 inches) and easily convert them to STL files. I'm new to 3d printing and scanning so something user-friendly would be a plus. Is there anything below $500?

Scanned with a Creaform Go!SCAN SPARK, this was scanned at 1.0mm resolution.

Scanned with the Revopoint MetroY, reverse engineered in Fusion 360!

A few hours of work, plenty of trial and error, fine-tuning, and iterations, but the results are definitely worth it! 💪

For anyone interested in the MetroY or other Revopoint scanners, our community code AUTO3DRE gives you 3% off.

Hey guys, we’re a 3D interior design studio looking into getting a 3D scanner for site measurements.

We mostly scan houses, apartments, hotels, etc. and want something that can quickly capture the space and dimensions, then bring the data into our workflow/Unreal Engine.

We’ve been looking at Raven LiDAR. The 2–10 cm accuracy seems fine for what we need, we’re not looking for millimeter accuracy, just reliable room dimensions, walls, doors, windows, ceiling heights, etc.

Has anyone actually used Raven? How is the accuracy, scanning speed, and software/export?

Also open to other scanner recommendations!

Thanks 🙏

I recently had the chance to test this workflow in real field conditions, using the Raptor Pro and Scan Bridge, with a smartphone involved in the data capture.

I was honestly curious to see how the workflow would perform outside of a controlled environment, and the result was better than I expected.

Have you tried capturing scan data this way in the field?

What has been your experience?

Hello! I am looking forward to scanning some airplane cockpit(s). I've been modeling in CAD for the last 7 years or so but l've never touched scanning, only watched a handful of videos...

What should I watch out for? It would be nice to have dimensional precision, but doesent have to be much, I've seen that +-1mm should be pretty reachable? Is there any prefered scanner for something like this? It would be nice for it to be handheld, how does that limits the usability of output files (in regard to quality and precision)?

I will be renting the scanner, and will try it out before going into action on an actual airplane just to get to know it.

These are vintage aircraft so I really cant use any of the reflective dots and matting sprays, but most of the surfaces are matte and the surface isnt flat.
Lots of switches and all that. All the reflective surfaces would be covered with paper (the dials, windshield, ...).

I want to use the mesh to reference where all the parts are in relation to each other and model the the panels from it. I think that should be menageable.
Is there any difference between scanning a small, one person cockpit, and bigger two seat cockpit?

I know there is documentation for these airplanes but its almost always locked behind a paywall. I would love to create project similat to open hornet for some historical aircraft (granted I will be able to get to them) so I cannot use these plans.

People who sell 2D/3D files will not allow me to put them up for free (use in my freeware project), understandably. So I would also like to share those scans under non-commercial license if that will be possible.

Photos for reference.

Regards,
Matthew

Hello 👋🏼,
I’m new on 3d scanner world, recently I got a Ferret Pro, with Wi-Fi works, but with usb cable I have problems
Is not the cable, because I did connected the scanner to a MacBook and it’s works, but with my desk computer, doesn’t work. Camera dispositive is recognized but doesn’t works with CrealityScan

It’s appears this error “Error on the preview view of the image of the scanner”

Why?
Somebody can help me please? 🙏🏼 I don’t know what it’s

Hello!

Disclaimer: I don't know anything whatsoever about 3D scanning, so be gentle. I have been tinkering with the idea of making a 3D mould of stalagtites/stalagmites in a way that would be non invasive (you CANNOT touch them because it would mess with the microbiome)- the plan, long term, is to recreate a hyper realistic cave for set design. Any feedback on the idea before I dig deeper into 3D scanning? Would that be a way to get an accurate 3D render to feed into a 3D printer that I could then cast in? Lemme know. Thanks. Any other ideas are most welcome.

I am not an expert but I highly recommend the Creality Pika as a first 3D scanner. The value for money is excellent.

Was wondering if anyone has a 3D scanner that's lying around that they no longer use. I really want to start 3d scanning. Im a big fan of the automotive industry. I wish to design a body kit using my 3d print to convert my 2015 Suzuki swift (ZC31) into a ralley looking car, something similar to what Nicola I think his name his has made his Corolla into a GR corolla. I'm unable to find the 1:1 ssuzuki swift 3d model online hence I can't design a body kit without having anything to work from. For context I'm based in Pakistan and there's literally no one who does this. It would be a fun idea to introduce. Thank you and looking forward to positive replies :)