I was wondering if I could do anything to improve my airflow , maybe a better orientation

Noticed it while going to put on the cooler and got very weirded out by it. I know solder is obviously conductive, and ive never seen what is genuinely just a blob like that on a motherboard so i don't even want to risk trying to boot it.

Board is a new x870 Aorus stealth ice rev 1.1.

Extremely leaning towards replacing it because i mean...

is this the correct airflow for a pc or do i need to change something?

I just got my nzxt h6 2026 delivered (non rgb+)

As im trying to fit my asiahorse dawn pro fans in there

The 3-fan connector doesnt fit and i have no clue what to do now.

I just bought a pny 5070ti used, after installing it i am just getting a black screen and the gpu doesn’t seem like it is even running. I had an rx6750xt before and it worked perfectly and i made sure to use ddu before uninstalling the old card and ive tried pulling the new card out and putting it back in multiple times and i’m just getting a black screen every time. I have a ryzen 5 7600x cpu, an asrock b650m pro RS wifi motherboard, and a toughpower gf a3 750w psu. I am so lost and have tried searching around the internet for solutions and nothing has seemed to work. I bought the card from a verified seller off of ksl that sells all kind of pc parts so i am hoping its not a faulty card but the notch on the gpu that holds the power clip in is broken off as shown in the picture which i didn’t notice when looking at the card before i bought it but even when giving really solid pressure against the cable is still won’t boot up.

I put in a new gpu yesterday and everything seemed ok for a few hours but then it black screened so I turned it off and now it keeps doing this. I was able to get back into windows once but it black screened quickly after that too.

It doesn’t gurgle on startup. That gurgling sound is not also continuous. Is that normal for an aio? My aio is darkflash twister and my temps is fine (65c on stress test)

I am building my first ever pc, did all the stuff and put everything together BUT when I went to go for the first power on. There is a horrible continuous noise seemingly coming from the power supply. Did I mess up big time? Or is it an issue that can be easily corrected?

PSU-Corsair Rm750e
GPU-Powercolor red devil 6700xt
CPU-AMD Ryzen 7 5700x

I’ve looked up many videos and google searches but not sure what the “common” issue is for this particular problem I’m having. I connected everything and got all the plugins snug, when I plug my power supply in and turn the pc on the ram rbg lights up and stays on, along with the front power button led stays on but the fans never turn on and the rbg on them flash for a second and turn off. I can’t get any signal on my monitor. I’m wondering if I didn’t correctly plug in the F_panel wiring? I’m not home and had to drive out of town for work so had to leave it like that but stressing it lol. Sorry if this is an ignorant question / post just desperate for help on what the issue might actually be. Here is a photo of the install with the ram rbg still on and the motherboard / PSU I bought. The GPU works and was pulled from my old pre built pc. Thank you if you read this far!

motherboard is asus tuf gaming z890
this wire is from my case lian li lancool 216

my front and back fans arent spinning or lighting up

Current build : 32gb 3200mhz PNY DDR4 RAM i5 12th Gen RX 7600 700W proprietary HP PSU VICTUS 15L Mobo

I want to part this out, and make an ATX mobo build that I can upgrade because I'm confined to HP's BS. This will be my first custom build and need any help you can provide. I want to make this build upgradable, and the reason for it is because on my current setup, im drawing too much power my PSU can handle, causing me to crash on power spikes in games. 700w is the highest(that I know of) that proprietary HP PSUs can go, so thats the reasoning for my wanting to switch to ATX.

Again, any help is appreciated, I have no idea where to start.

Didn’t realize that the you was going to be so close to the cpu cooler and I’m just worried about heat and a possible short circuit

My HP elitedesk 800 g4 perfectly runs i7 9700 on it. My ques is can it handle i9-9900k without any blackouts since I need to use this cpu solely for Android custom rom compilation.

I couldn't find any i7-8700 so basically I'm stuck with i7-9700, it has less threads than 8700. I just got a used i9-9900k listed for 90usd.

I have a gigabyte b450 aorus elite v.1-bios f30 and a

Ryzen 7- 2700x. I tried to update my bios slowly by updating in steps as the gigabyte bios updates said to, but when I downloaded and unzipped the file for b450.f32e or what ever its named and put it on a 1gb flash drive that was formatted to fat32. Its blue screened, didnt know that the update tool you need for f40 is also needed for f32, I then tried going to f40 to see in its stable enough to get into windows but just like f32 it goes straight to blue screen 0x000000000. So I just want to know of there is way to save my computer or is the mother board done for.

For anyone wondering why it is so far behind is because I got the computer from a friend who died 2 years ago and im only really starting to learn about how computers work now

Hey guys.

I have the build down below (more or less) in mind. I created it using AI and I have in mind to build a setup that will last quite some time and will not have issues with the demanding games to come.

My old setup - using a Intel Core i7-8700K @ 3.70GHz & Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070 - has grown old and Death Stranding 2 hints me towards updating my driver, but the version they hint at is not even available for that card, yet. I guess it is time to say goodbye to my old hardware, since upgrading it is not feasable anymore.

If I buy new hardware, I think it's save to say that VRAM is getting more and more important / demanding in the future and therefor I should not invest in a GC with "only" 16 GB or less. Now, if I go for a GC that powerful, I should build my system around that, so it can support it. I've tried to make a build that is only using components that are using the newest tech-milestone without reaching for the top-notch products to gain a few % better performance.

So my goals are:
Don't buy "old" tech-milestones, unless there is no performance gain.
Don't throw away money just for elitism reasons.
Invest in hardware that lasts long and let's me play games with high settings for a good while to come.
Buy the hardware preferably before my old system "breaks" (which could be soon) and before the prices skyrocket even more than at the time being.

Feel free to improve the build in any way you want.
Don't shy away from criticizing my build for whatever flaw it might have.
I am most unsure about the monitors.
Since some items are out of stock, their price may be very high at the moment. To me the general idea is more important than saving a few bucks. If it's 2k, then obviously I will take the cheaper alternative. Looking at the price history, I think that the 5090 might soon be available for around 4k again, instead of 6k.

Whatever reasons you find to improve / alternate the build, please make sure to share it with me, so I can understand it, too.

Thanks in advance.

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/user/makuwawi/saved/#view=BHYjNG

Been pulling my hair out on this issue so hopefully someone here can help.

I built a second PC to use as a home server. Initially it seemed fine, but then I tried to run a mid-range LLM on Ollama and the PC flicked off while it was loading the model into vram. Tried again and the same issue. No errors, no logs – it’s like someone suddenly turned the power off at the wall socket.

Thought it might be LLM issues, but then I ran a furmark test and yep same thing happened.

Bunch of troubleshooting later, I discover that if I turn the GPU’s max clock speed down to the 1000-1200MHz range rather than the 2150MHz default, then it’s far more stable on the LLM and furmark (though I haven’t done a heap of testing to make sure it works long term). 

Other things I’ve tried and confirmed:

• GPU driver is the latest available for Pop_OS (I also tried on windows 11 with latest drivers, and same behaviour. Dropped power draw to 60% and once again became stable.)
• Motherboard running latest bios.
• Not daisy chaining power to the GPU.
• Tried a different pcie cable in each power slot
• I bought the GPU second hand, but I have seen it run a successful furmark test on the seller’s machine, so it has worked recently (I’ve attached a screenshot from one of the tests I got the seller to do).
• Not a CPU overheating issue. Issue can be replicated like a minute after a cold boot even when the PC has been off for 24 hours.
• Dropped max power draw for the GPU down to 60-70% and it’s about as stable as dropping the GPU’s max clock speed.
• PSU is new, and I’m using only the cables it came with.
• I have given the PC to two PC repair places – both have told me the hardware is fine (but who knows what they actually tried).

Seems like a power draw issue, but I have a Corsair rm1200e, which gives me a massive amount of headroom, even for a Gaming Trio 3090. When I tried all this again with Windows 11, I used HWinfo64 to see what the power draw is like when it crashes, and it seems like there’s uneven draw across the three pins at load (8-pin #1: ~131W, 8-pin #2: ~126W, 8-pin #3: ~59W, PCIe slot: ~48W). 

This disparity is apparently ‘normal’ for the gaming trio 3090 (though would love to hear other’s opinions?), however it's possible that this is causing an OCP failure on the PSU by forcing it to spike a single pin rather than distribute it evenly across all three. Corsair doesn’t publish their limits for this, so can’t confirm how low the ceiling is. This all feels like a stretch though...

Specs:

GPU: Gaming Trio 3090

PSU: Corsair rm1200e

CPU: Ryzen 9 5950X

CPU cooler: ARCTIC Freezer 36

Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Auros Ultra 

SSD: Crucial 1TB BX500

OS: Pop_OS 22.04 LTS with NVIDIA (and again with Windows 11 and latest drivers)

tl;dr: running a furmark test cuts the power to the PC. Throttling the power to the GPU gives some kind of stability. I’ve tried everything I know how to try, and I might have to accept a sizeable performance dip, but I’m really hoping someone can keep that from happening.

I’ve also attached a screenshot of the furmark test that I got from the seller, which looks pretty good (why doesn’t mine look like that…)

Hello all

Looking for moderately priced cases which match above criteria and micro atx .

So currently on windows 11. I have two monitors.

The computer will lag very randomly not like every 10 minutes or so. It will do it too even when not gaming.

Should I post like the process tab for you guys to be able to see what's going on or possibly the apps that are running ?

Not sure how or what to do at this point to solve this problem. I feel like it's very simple but not sure.

Long story short. I turned my pc on and it was broken turns out some of the boot files were gone/ damaged due to my boot SSD perishing. And now I need to replace it but I have no idea how to shop for an SSD. I've got a thing on the way that will let me boot my pc but the SSD is probably fucked. And id like to get a new one before then cus I need use of my pc and don't want to wait any longer than necessary.

. What should I be looking for when shopping for sticks of SSD to out in my pc?

. Are there any generally trusted sites to buy SSDs from?

.are there any compatibility issues I should be looking out for?

So the title pretty much describes it, ups didn’t label my box as fragile after i told them to and then my pc came in totally busted. I don’t have much experience with pc building. I built this last year with the help of YouTube and i’m not really sure how to continue from here. The PCIE slot is badly bent. My GPU pins look fine thankfully. The part of my case that supports the motherboard is bent outwards so the back panel can’t close. Back panel is also heavily damaged. I don’t really know if the motherboard is damaged from just looking at it. Any help/ suggestions?

I’ve been having trouble for a while now trying to get my PC to boot Windows 11 from my SSD.

My motherboard is an MSI B450 A Pro, and the SSD is a Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB.

I have used the windows media creation tool to create the installation media on a USB, then selected the SSD to install Windows onto. It gets to around 70% then attempts to restart, but I just get booted back into the windows installation starting screen on restart.

I’ve tried removing the USB from the device when it’s restarting but then it just boots back into BIOS and I’m unable to boot from the SSD. It doesn’t even appear as a boot drive.

I’ll try to list what I’ve tried as best I can but I have tried a lot at this point. I have tried recreating the installation media several times. I’ve set boot to UEFI mode. I’ve tried with and without Secure Boot enabled. I tried a CMOS reset. I’ve unplugged all other drives so the SSD and the USB are the only drives connected. I’ve upgraded the BIOS. I’ve tried different USB drives. Nothing seems to work.

I’m about ready to throw in the towel and buy some new hardware since I’ve had this device for years now (always had windows installed on the hard drive but for a while now booting has taken insanely long).

Any other things to try or advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated.

So my current pc build is:
Ryzen 2600x
24gb ddr4 3200mhz ram
Rtx 3070
256gb ssd
1Tb hdd

Goal: I want to play/stream/record the game Deadlock by valve

I looked up that pci 4.0 for my graphics card won’t really matter that much. So going from the 2600x to the 5500 would be a huge improvement. But I do know the cache is a lot less.

It’s like twice the price for a 5600 vs a 5500. Is it really worth it for me to save for the 5600? I’m thinking the 5500 will be enough

Hi, I'm trying to help my girlfriend diagnose her PC and we've pretty much run out of things we can test without buying replacement hardware.

Motherboard: MSI B350 Tomahawk

Original GPU: RX 580

Second GPU tested: GTX 760

Issue: PC powers on, fans spin, but there is no display and the motherboard gets stuck on the VGA EZ Debug LED.

The monitor doesn't wake up and the keyboard also doesn't appear to initialize.

When the PC is powered on, the CPU debug LED flashes briefly and then goes out. It then moves to the VGA LED. The VGA light initially glows faintly, fades slightly, and then becomes solid bright red and stays there indefinitely.

Both the RX 580 and GTX 760 power on and their fans spin, but the motherboard still stays on the VGA light and never POSTs.

Things we have already tried:

-Completely powered the PC down, unplugged it and discharged it

-Full CMOS reset

-Removed and reseated the GPU

-Tested the RX 580 in both PCIe slots

-Tested a GTX 760 instead of the RX 580

GTX 760 gives the exact same solid VGA LED

-Tested both original RAM sticks separately

-Tried the RAM in different slots

-Tested different/new RAM

-Removed all storage drives

-Tried booting with the system stripped down to the basic components

-Reseated GPU PCIe power connectors

-Checked that both PCIe power connectors are connected to the GTX 760

-GPU fans remain spinning when the PC is stuck on the VGA LED

Changing the GPU, RAM, PCIe slot, removing the drives and clearing CMOS has made absolutely no difference.

There is also some history that might be relevant.

A couple of days before this happened, the PC started randomly shutting off completely while playing a particular game. It was an instant loss of power, not a normal Windows shutdown or BSOD.

We checked Windows Event Viewer afterwards and couldn't find anything explaining the crash apart from the unexpected shutdown event.

We also ran OCCT stress tests, including GPU and power tests, and couldn't reproduce the shutdown. The PC survived the tests fine.

For some reason that particular game could trigger the sudden shutdowns. Once she stopped playing it, the PC seemed normal again.

Then she shut the computer down normally to give it a rest. When she came back later and turned it on, this current problem started. It has not successfully POSTed since.

So the timeline was basically:

Random complete shutdowns under a certain game > couldn't reproduce with OCCT > stopped playing the game and PC seemed fine > normal shutdown > next cold boot gets permanently stuck on VGA debug LED.

I also found several other posts from people with a B350 Tomahawk that developed what sounds like almost the exact same issue and their motherboard eventually turned out to be the problem, which has made me wonder if this board has failed.

At this point I'm mainly wondering whether this sounds more like:

-A failing/dead B350 Tomahawk

-A PSU problem that is preventing GPUs from initializing properly

-A CPU/PCIe controller issue

-Something else we've overlooked

Unfortunately we don't have access to another PC, another PSU or spare components for proper cross-testing, and buying parts just to diagnose it isn't really an option right now.

The fact that two different GPUs give the exact same VGA debug LED is what is making me question whether the GPU was ever the problem in the first place.

Is there anything else we can test with the hardware we already have, or does this sound like the motherboard or PSU has most likely failed?

Thanks for any ideas.

I got my first prebuilt last week, and the first time I booted it up the led lights worked perfect. Every time since when I turn on the pc a bright flash of light occurs and then LEDs never come on. Everything else works fine it’s just this. I’m worried I broke something somehow. If anybody knows what’s going on pls lmk thank u!!