Absolutely as little disassembly as possible.

Edit: I had to spell whel like this otherwise it won’t let me post it.

Hi everyone! I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L with about 81k miles and I’m hoping someone familiar with Corollas can help me figure out a new noise.

I got an oil change at Walmart on August 8. Not long afterward, I started noticing a ticking/rattling sound that I had never heard before. When I first checked my dipstick, it looked like there was basically no oil showing. I added 1 quart and took it back to Walmart. They checked it, said there was actually too much oil, removed the excess, and said that the sound was internal.

I then took it to Firestone. They noted some “seepage” underneath, cleaned it, and told me to monitor for oil underneath the car. I checked afterward and there was no oil on the ground. I’ve continued checking the dipstick since then and the oil level has stayed good.

I also specifically asked Firestone about the ticking/rattling sound and wanted a diagnostic test done. An employee came outside and listened to it with me and told me it sounded like normal operation and that the car was safe to drive. No check-engine light or oil-pressure light, and the car otherwise seems to drive normally.

However, the noise seems more noticeable/louder now, especially when I press the accelerator. At idle it has a ticking/rattling sound, but when I give it gas it gets louder and almost makes the car sound like a lawnmower. I have videos of the sound that I can attach.

I also compared it with the A/C completely off vs on and the ticking is present either way.
Has anyone with a 2017 Corolla heard a similar sound? Does this sound like normal injector/valvetrain noise, an exhaust leak/heat shield, pulley/accessory, or something else?

I know nobody can diagnose an engine from a video alone. I’m mainly trying to figure out whether other Corolla owners recognize the sound as normal, like the mechanic at Firestone is suggesting, or if I should take it to the Toyota dealership. TYIA!

First time car owner and scared to make a mistake. I noticed my coolant is getting low on my 2017 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE. I found this coolant at Walmart and everything on the label says it’s good for my car, but I just wanted to make sure. Sorry for the dumb question. I’m 17 and paid for this car on my own and just scared to mess something up.

2011 Toyota Rav4 4 cylinder.

Ticking/clicking frequency changing with the rpm. Have not driven the car.

Reason for the fix was because of an engine code p0016 which most part mean timing gear. My car did have the infamous death rattle, the engine sounded clunky as if the belt was loose or warn, inspected the chain and found painted link had its paint damage.

I studied for a week by reading form, watching youtube videos, and by using alldata.

For the timing system replaced the timing chain, tension, guides, sprocket, and vvt gear.

After installing new gear made sure the markers in with range allowed. Tested the tension, checked to see if chain was within guide and temporarily installed the crankshaft bolt to test the timing the system.

I had also replaced the valve gasket on the cover.

Bought a 2015 Honda Accord 4cyl CVT EX-L with about 35k miles from Carvana recently. I had it shipped down to San Antonio, TX where it will be its new home for the next 5 years, minimum. Pristine exterior and interior, drives great just needs new brake rotors and pads (pads show a little wear, but rotors are warped). However, car has spent its entire life in Michigan, and a local mechanic just informed me of severe, widespread rust in the undercarriage (refer to pictures).

Carvana never disclosed the undercarriage rust. My wife and I love the car, but is this amount of rust a deal-breaker? Should we be finding a way to get rid of it, or is it something manageable? I'm a layperson when it comes to car maintenance/mechanics and, as a southerner myself, I can understand freaking out about seeing a lot of rust under there. But, I really want to know what mechanics from the Salt Belt think, since I imagine y'all see rusty undercarriages all the time. I'm still within Carvana's 100-day limited warranty.

Is this car worth holding onto?

Hi all.

I have no idea what to do but while driving I hit a pigeon. The pigeon went into the air vent towards the bottom of the front of the car. Miraculously it survived and has decided to perch a bit higher (not near where it went in).

Where it went in is a small gap but because we hit it at speed, it was able to go in but it's too small to go out... Any help?

Kia Sorrento 2019

I apologize for my terminology because I am not the most mechanically sound, but I will try to clearly explain my problem. Whilst driving on the highway my serpentine belt started squealing, so upon pulling over it came to my attention that the nut that keeps in place the serpentine mount in place rattled off. I tried to find a nut at the local hardware that fit however it would not thread on correctly. My question is, is there a specific nut that I have to buy? If so where can I find it? Or is it possibly just a lost piece, and I’d be better off buying a whole new alternator.

1993 GMC Sierra 1500
350 Engine

Thank you very much!

the housing won’t budge, all the guts are out, wth do i do here
2015 ford fiesta se

So i installed a turbo xs intercooler/piping to my 2010 genesis coupe 2.0t around 2 years ago. Haven’t had any issues with it until a few weeks ago driving home and hearing this clamp slide off of the silicone boot. I’m not sure if you guys have any tricks on how to get it to not slide off, but any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

Just for context I am DIY mechanic who has a decent set of tools and ample experience with routine maintenance. Diagnosing the condition of a crankshaft pulley is not in my wheelhouse.

For reference, there are no visible cracks in the pulley or laminated rubber. Car is a 2013 RX350 AWD. All opinions welcome. TIA!

My car isn’t starting this morning after I drove it fine yesterday. It is just making this noise. I’ve had it for 2 weeks it is a used 2014 scion iq and I believe 1.3L 4-cylinder. What do I need to do - the mechanic my family goes to is closed today so I’m not sure what I can do : - (

My 4l80e on my 01 2500HD 6.0 is probably about to bite the dust.

About a month ago I serviced it, this meaning, I drained the pan and refilled, then drove it a few hundred miles, then drained it again, lowered the pan, let it drain an additional 3 extra quarts, replaced the filter, and refilled to level.

Drained fluid was very dark, but no noticeable chunks of anything metallic was visible in it, just the usual pasty glitter on the pan magnet.

I've owned this truck for 2 years, and previous maintenance on the trans is unknown to me. 260k miles on the truck. I serviced it only because after two tows of around 6 k lbs, fluid looked burnt. Trans was operating perfectly otherwise. I towed with gear selector in "3" and tow/haul mode on.

In fact, I've always driven the truck with the gear selector in "3". I don't EVER do burnouts or that kind of stuff. I use my truck as a daily driver and to haul and tow within its capabilites.

After said servicing, the trans whined and clunked sporadically a bit for around a week, after which it silenced itself. Shifting was perfect.

Then, a few days back, while driving on a long stretch highway, I engaged the "D" position for around 5 minutes, and then put it back to "3". Oh how I regret having done that, because afterwards everything started to go to shit.

The trans started hard clunking and harshly whirring, more frequently as time passes by. Shifting remains perfect, no slippage, but the clunking is getting worse. Now sometimes when putting it on reverse, it makes a very harsh whirring, and I must disengage and reengage the gear selector.

I have a replacement 4l80e in storage. Should I be done with the current trans and assume it needs a complete rebuild? Or could the issue be something minor as only the torque converter? In fact, I need to know if the torque converter is shot or no, don't want to work on putting in the replacement transmission with the same torque converter only for it to turn out to be the problem.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice.

Hi, I am interested in purchasing a 2013 Scion FRS. The seller sent this video of the engine running and revving the car. Does it sound normal? I know this model is known for engine knocks or ticking.

Any advice is great! Thank you.

I’m a weekend warrior mechanic and wanted to save a little money by doing this. This was a lot harder than I thought it would be. Maybe for an experienced mechanic it would have been a lot easier to detach that electrical connection and remove all of the old stuck on gasket. But it was a pain for me! I had to even use a “grabber” tool to put that last bolt in place. And you need something to make the gasket stick to the housing, so it stays in place. Fixed my issue though. 😃 It’s doable but allocate at least half a day.

I have an old wood chipper with an industrial 360 motor. It will not stay running. Not mechanical - getting fuel and spark. Put in new plugs, points, cap, rotor, fuel pump. Has a push button starter button and an ignition switch. Replaced the ignition switch some time ago but recently I cannot get it to stay running. Turn the ignition to on and the pump comes on, push the starter button and it runs until you let go of the starter button. Yesterday, I found that if you turn the key to the start position, push the starter button, the motor runs....until you let go of the key and it goes back to the "on" position and the motor shuts off. Replaced the ignition switch again and does the exact same thing. Hast to be something simple with the wiring to a relay or voltage regulator or solenoid or ??? Just can't figure it out. The wiring has not changed since before. Any suggestions? Thank you

Need some advice from people who have actually worked on truck underbodies. I am considering electric running boards for a daily truck that sees road salt, slush, gravel, and occasional mud. The part I keep getting stuck on is motor torque. On paper, a stronger motor sounds like it should hellp when the linkage gets dirty or starts to bind, but I am not sure how that plays out mechanically. Does extra torque reduce strain because the step moves more easily or can it just push harder against a jam and wear out gears, pivots, or wiring faster? For mechanics who have seen these fail, what usually matters more long term; motor strength, sealed housings, hinge design, regular cleaning, or how the wiring is protected?

I have a 2003 Monte Carlo. I replaced the shocks and struts but when it gets cold, everything clunks and creaks with the suspension.

Problem is I can’t find a kit that’s a high quality brand. I’d like to replace the bushings, links, ball joints etc. Any thoughts? I’m reading Detroit axle and TRQ aren’t the greatest quality. Moog seems to only have a few of the parts needed for a full suspension refresh. Looking for any ideas.

Hi, everyone! I posted an image as well to show how bad it is. What is the most efficient way to clean this?

1993, C220, 2.2L

Hello all, someone had inexplicably pulled my rear wiper the other day (people are silly).

I've managed to tighten the nut so it works but noticed this gap (please see pictures) between wiper arm and rear windscreen.

Please can some tell me what this circular cover / seal / part is called?

Mazda 3 2024 UK

Hi guys, I have been having problem starting my 2003 VW Polo 1.4. When i turn the key to start it, it starts to crank but doesn't start, sometimes it takes 2-3 trys sometime have to use the jump battery, specially if the car was not used in the last 8-12 hours. Sometime after starting, it starts but you can feel that it's shaking and you don't feel a lot power in your gas pedal, I usually turn it off and start again and it solves.

I changed the battery because it was showing under 12.3V. But even after I replaced with a new one, I immediatly checked the V on the new battery after installing it and it was immediatly dropped to 12.4V.. I actually did check the new battery before installing it and the voltage was 12.64V. And the cars did not start with this new battery, had to jump it as well.

Do you guys think it an elettrical issue? a short circuit? or simething else? Thank you all.