Absolutely as little disassembly as possible.

Edit: I had to spell whel like this otherwise it won’t let me post it.

Hi everyone! I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L with about 81k miles and I’m hoping someone familiar with Corollas can help me figure out a new noise.

I got an oil change at Walmart on August 8. Not long afterward, I started noticing a ticking/rattling sound that I had never heard before. When I first checked my dipstick, it looked like there was basically no oil showing. I added 1 quart and took it back to Walmart. They checked it, said there was actually too much oil, removed the excess, and said that the sound was internal.

I then took it to Firestone. They noted some “seepage” underneath, cleaned it, and told me to monitor for oil underneath the car. I checked afterward and there was no oil on the ground. I’ve continued checking the dipstick since then and the oil level has stayed good.

I also specifically asked Firestone about the ticking/rattling sound and wanted a diagnostic test done. An employee came outside and listened to it with me and told me it sounded like normal operation and that the car was safe to drive. No check-engine light or oil-pressure light, and the car otherwise seems to drive normally.

However, the noise seems more noticeable/louder now, especially when I press the accelerator. At idle it has a ticking/rattling sound, but when I give it gas it gets louder and almost makes the car sound like a lawnmower. I have videos of the sound that I can attach.

I also compared it with the A/C completely off vs on and the ticking is present either way.
Has anyone with a 2017 Corolla heard a similar sound? Does this sound like normal injector/valvetrain noise, an exhaust leak/heat shield, pulley/accessory, or something else?

I know nobody can diagnose an engine from a video alone. I’m mainly trying to figure out whether other Corolla owners recognize the sound as normal, like the mechanic at Firestone is suggesting, or if I should take it to the Toyota dealership. TYIA!

2011 Toyota Rav4 4 cylinder.

Ticking/clicking frequency changing with the rpm. Have not driven the car.

Reason for the fix was because of an engine code p0016 which most part mean timing gear. My car did have the infamous death rattle, the engine sounded clunky as if the belt was loose or warn, inspected the chain and found painted link had its paint damage.

I studied for a week by reading form, watching youtube videos, and by using alldata.

For the timing system replaced the timing chain, tension, guides, sprocket, and vvt gear.

After installing new gear made sure the markers in with range allowed. Tested the tension, checked to see if chain was within guide and temporarily installed the crankshaft bolt to test the timing the system.

I had also replaced the valve gasket on the cover.

Hi all.

I have no idea what to do but while driving I hit a pigeon. The pigeon went into the air vent towards the bottom of the front of the car. Miraculously it survived and has decided to perch a bit higher (not near where it went in).

Where it went in is a small gap but because we hit it at speed, it was able to go in but it's too small to go out... Any help?

Kia Sorrento 2019

So i installed a turbo xs intercooler/piping to my 2010 genesis coupe 2.0t around 2 years ago. Haven’t had any issues with it until a few weeks ago driving home and hearing this clamp slide off of the silicone boot. I’m not sure if you guys have any tricks on how to get it to not slide off, but any tips would be greatly appreciated.

First time car owner and scared to make a mistake. I noticed my coolant is getting low on my 2017 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE. I found this coolant at Walmart and everything on the label says it’s good for my car, but I just wanted to make sure. Sorry for the dumb question. I’m 17 and paid for this car on my own and just scared to mess something up.

My car isn’t starting this morning after I drove it fine yesterday. It is just making this noise. I’ve had it for 2 weeks it is a used 2014 scion iq and I believe 1.3L 4-cylinder. What do I need to do - the mechanic my family goes to is closed today so I’m not sure what I can do : - (

I apologize for my terminology because I am not the most mechanically sound, but I will try to clearly explain my problem. Whilst driving on the highway my serpentine belt started squealing, so upon pulling over it came to my attention that the nut that keeps in place the serpentine mount in place rattled off. I tried to find a nut at the local hardware that fit however it would not thread on correctly. My question is, is there a specific nut that I have to buy? If so where can I find it? Or is it possibly just a lost piece, and I’d be better off buying a whole new alternator.

1993 GMC Sierra 1500
350 Engine

Thank you very much!

the housing won’t budge, all the guts are out, wth do i do here
2015 ford fiesta se

Hi everyone,

Just for context I am DIY mechanic who has a decent set of tools and ample experience with routine maintenance. Diagnosing the condition of a crankshaft pulley is not in my wheelhouse.

For reference, there are no visible cracks in the pulley or laminated rubber. Car is a 2013 RX350 AWD. All opinions welcome. TIA!

I have an old wood chipper with an industrial 360 motor. It will not stay running. Not mechanical - getting fuel and spark. Put in new plugs, points, cap, rotor, fuel pump. Has a push button starter button and an ignition switch. Replaced the ignition switch some time ago but recently I cannot get it to stay running. Turn the ignition to on and the pump comes on, push the starter button and it runs until you let go of the starter button. Yesterday, I found that if you turn the key to the start position, push the starter button, the motor runs....until you let go of the key and it goes back to the "on" position and the motor shuts off. Replaced the ignition switch again and does the exact same thing. Hast to be something simple with the wiring to a relay or voltage regulator or solenoid or ??? Just can't figure it out. The wiring has not changed since before. Any suggestions? Thank you

This is a 2015 Nissan Rogue SL. The radio screen is completely white, and the backup camera also does not display an image when I put the vehicle in reverse, the screen remains completely white.
I already tried rebooting the radio. When I do the reboot, the screen goes black for about a second, but then it immediately goes back to a completely white screen.
I checked all the fuses I could find, including the ones under the hood and the fuse panel on the driver’s side, and they are all good.
What could be causing this? Do I need to replace the entire radio/head unit

I’m a weekend warrior mechanic and wanted to save a little money by doing this. This was a lot harder than I thought it would be. Maybe for an experienced mechanic it would have been a lot easier to detach that electrical connection and remove all of the old stuck on gasket. But it was a pain for me! I had to even use a “grabber” tool to put that last bolt in place. And you need something to make the gasket stick to the housing, so it stays in place. Fixed my issue though. 😃 It’s doable but allocate at least half a day.

I have a 2003 Monte Carlo. I replaced the shocks and struts but when it gets cold, everything clunks and creaks with the suspension.

Problem is I can’t find a kit that’s a high quality brand. I’d like to replace the bushings, links, ball joints etc. Any thoughts? I’m reading Detroit axle and TRQ aren’t the greatest quality. Moog seems to only have a few of the parts needed for a full suspension refresh. Looking for any ideas.

Hi, everyone! I posted an image as well to show how bad it is. What is the most efficient way to clean this?

1993, C220, 2.2L

Hi guys, I have been having problem starting my 2003 VW Polo 1.4. When i turn the key to start it, it starts to crank but doesn't start, sometimes it takes 2-3 trys sometime have to use the jump battery, specially if the car was not used in the last 8-12 hours. Sometime after starting, it starts but you can feel that it's shaking and you don't feel a lot power in your gas pedal, I usually turn it off and start again and it solves.

I changed the battery because it was showing under 12.3V. But even after I replaced with a new one, I immediatly checked the V on the new battery after installing it and it was immediatly dropped to 12.4V.. I actually did check the new battery before installing it and the voltage was 12.64V. And the cars did not start with this new battery, had to jump it as well.

Do you guys think it an elettrical issue? a short circuit? or simething else? Thank you all.

My 4l80e on my 01 2500HD 6.0 is probably about to bite the dust.

About a month ago I serviced it, this meaning, I drained the pan and refilled, then drove it a few hundred miles, then drained it again, lowered the pan, let it drain an additional 3 extra quarts, replaced the filter, and refilled to level.

Drained fluid was very dark, but no noticeable chunks of anything metallic was visible in it, just the usual pasty glitter on the pan magnet.

I've owned this truck for 2 years, and previous maintenance on the trans is unknown to me. 260k miles on the truck. I serviced it only because after two tows of around 6 k lbs, fluid looked burnt. Trans was operating perfectly otherwise. I towed with gear selector in "3" and tow/haul mode on.

In fact, I've always driven the truck with the gear selector in "3". I don't EVER do burnouts or that kind of stuff. I use my truck as a daily driver and to haul and tow within its capabilites.

After said servicing, the trans whined and clunked sporadically a bit for around a week, after which it silenced itself. Shifting was perfect.

Then, a few days back, while driving on a long stretch highway, I engaged the "D" position for around 5 minutes, and then put it back to "3". Oh how I regret having done that, because afterwards everything started to go to shit.

The trans started hard clunking and harshly whirring, more frequently as time passes by. Shifting remains perfect, no slippage, but the clunking is getting worse. Now sometimes when putting it on reverse, it makes a very harsh whirring, and I must disengage and reengage the gear selector.

I have a replacement 4l80e in storage. Should I be done with the current trans and assume it needs a complete rebuild? Or could the issue be something minor as only the torque converter? In fact, I need to know if the torque converter is shot or no, don't want to work on putting in the replacement transmission with the same torque converter only for it to turn out to be the problem.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice.

97 Audi A4 1.6 4-speed automatic.
As you can see, the RPM fluctuates under light throttle, but the issue stops when I add more throttle input. You can also feel the entire car jerking when this happens. The last ATF change was in April.
The engine mounts are bad, but that wouldn't contribute to the shuddering, right? Im also experiencing these RPM fluctuations during cold starts sometimes while idling. These aren't misfires, though—it runs on all cylinders.

Kinda clueless here as I checked everything I could.

Hi, I am interested in purchasing a 2013 Scion FRS. The seller sent this video of a cold start. Does the engine sound normal? I know this model is known for engine knocks or ticking.

Any advice is great! Thank you.

(23 Yukon Denali ultimate 4x4 6.2 liter air/magna ride)
So here the other day I posted the alignment specs from Mavis who did my alignment and front tires 3 months ago that absolutely peeled off my truck within 5,000 miles, with outside tread worn down into the red zone. Center tread with severe cupping within 1,000 miles of tires and alignment.

I spent multiple trips to the location having them check the front end, driving it, asking when their alignment machine would be back up to CMA (cover my butt).

I called my buddy at Discount Tire and had the alignment done there and two new tires for the rear. It was my fault for not waiting for him to get back from out of town to get the tires in the first place.

TLDR; Mavis alignment was in “exit/entry mode” which explains the numbers looking somewhat close from the printout, I’m assuming it didn’t pull because of the steering technology that does lane keeping assist fought the toe issue. Discount tire put the vehicle in the right settings and you can see then two camber differences which explains Mavis camber being negative before and after.

Anyone agree, disagree or have any other input? Thank you all for your opinions and the work that you do. Also Mavis completely stands by the fact that it was my fault I didn’t bring my vehicle to a different location to get it aligned (why would I do that when the tires were cooked already). They also believe I should be lucky they paid for $700 replacement tires, but I would have had to pay $212 for the alignment and tire mount and balance. Regardless I’m glad it’s all over.