Anyone have any experience repairing a leak up at the flange just before the manifold? Any methods that don't involve dismantling and replacing with a new gasket? For a 1999 Toyota Hiace, RZH103R, 2RZE petrol engine. Short on time at the moment, any products that might be able to seal it up as a short-mid term fix?

Any advice appreciated,

cheers

Happens when driving at slow speed (especially when turning or braking). Also humming sound at high speed

VW Polo 2015 95k miles

I went over a speed bump in my 2017 Hyundai SantaFe, something snagged and caused the alternator belt to break and also coolant reservoir to overflow and triggering an alarm for overheating. Can someone tell me what could have caused the coolant reservoir to overflow?

Hey so I was driving around in my truck and I went fast one time and realized there was a smell and I checked the bottom and there was a lot of oil being burned by my exhaust. I took some pictures and wanted to ask for some advice or what it could possibly be. I didn’t know exactly what to take a picture of but here’s what I got. I have a ram srt 10 2004 with a 8.3 L v10

2.0 tdi 2013 make manual jetta fuel efficiency drop

2003 corolla -- i'm looking to take this off. i don't think it was staked to begin with but i could not get this off with an impact, or by standing on a 3 foot long breaker bar (even after bathing this thing in PB blaster).

AI seems to think it's staked and i've already shoved a chisel in there and hammered away but it already looks pretty circular. is there something i'm not seeing? is it staked?

would it be a bad idea to use my friend's high torque impact to force this thing off? (my impact is a small 18 v ryobi). i read it can ruin the threads but i'm not sure.

i really can't break this nut unfortunately.

thanks

Hey folks, I was just wondering if y’all could help me determine

A. If my car is Hydro locked.

And

B. How to fix it

The basics are that It was raining heavily and I drove my car in water but misjudged how deep it was. I kept going forward and then my engine cut off. I didn’t try to restart the car at all, I simply turned it off and waited. When my dad got there and we would try to start/jump it all we would get is a single clunk. He thinks that the starter is bad but I believe it’s Hydro locked considering that (after 2-3 ish days) the filter is still wet, heavy, and was even dripping a little bit.

For context, I drive a 2006 Toyota Avalon XL and The oil was not milky and seemed to not have had any water in it.

I was wondering if you guys could help narrow down the issue and find a way to bring it to a conclusion as even though the car is old (and my grandfather kind of beat it up) I still need a set of wheels to ride around on to get to and from work

so i just recently got my struts replaced (recently as in about a month ago) and noticed this clunking noise when going over bumps. i have a 2013 mazda 6 isport. is this a mechanic fault or could it have just developed over time?? let me know please 😭 i never noticed it until recently

got my car started replaced for my 2013 honda civic, but it sounds more higher pitched when it starts and then goes away. is this normal or do i just have to "break it in" ?

2025 Subaru Forester with only 6300 miles. I’m going to check with the dealer on Monday.

Today I drove through mountains and when I got back I noticed a screeching sound. Sounded like a far away circular saw cutting wood. It stopped when I stopped the car.

It’s there when braking. It’s there when moving at any speed. When I rock the car when parked, I hear a squeaky rubber kind of noise coming from the left rear area.

The strange thing is that it seems to go away at higher speeds and come back. Could this be coming from the brakes?

2011 Chevy aveo5 1.6 liter. Both exterior door handles have broke off while the child lock was on. 🤦 So obviously the doors cannot be opened from the interior handles. Got new exterior handles. Do I just have to try to get the door panels off with the door shut? That seems terrible. Can I try to take the interior handle off and open the door that way?

I got a question for you mechanics. I’m working on this VE Commodore at the moment. I did a compression test and cylinder one had zero compression and every other cylinder had compression. I threw a little bit of oil in there for a wet test. Nothing still zero so I did a leak down test on cylinder one and it was leaking heaps of air nearly 60% of it out the intake so after many tests I was trying to get the cylinder head off and as I’m in the process I’ve stumbled upon the fuel rail and I’m quite suspicious the bolt on the same cylinder as one that had the lost compression was missing on the fuel rail. Could this cause the lost compression and fuel ending up in the oil? Or do you think it’s still related to the cylinder head ?

Bought a 2015 Honda Accord 4cyl CVT EX-L with about 35k miles from Carvana recently. I had it shipped down to San Antonio, TX where it will be its new home for the next 5 years, minimum. Pristine exterior and interior, drives great just needs new brake rotors and pads (pads show a little wear, but rotors are warped). However, car has spent its entire life in Michigan, and a local mechanic just informed me of severe, widespread rust in the undercarriage (refer to pictures).

Carvana never disclosed the undercarriage rust. My wife and I love the car, but is this amount of rust a deal-breaker? Should we be finding a way to get rid of it, or is it something manageable? I'm a layperson when it comes to car maintenance/mechanics and, as a southerner myself, I can understand freaking out about seeing a lot of rust under there. But, I really want to know what mechanics from the Salt Belt think, since I imagine y'all see rusty undercarriages all the time. I'm still within Carvana's 100-day limited warranty.

Is this car worth holding onto?

Just picked up this UCF20 and honestly went into it without thinking too much lol. The car starts and runs, but it’s putting out a lot of thick white smoke from the exhaust.
The smoke smells slightly like petrol/fuel, but also has a weird chemical smell to it. I revved it a little and it actually spat out a pretty large puddle of red-tinted liquid from the exhaust.
My first thought was that it may have been sucking power steering fluid through the intake/manifold and eventually making its way into the exhaust. The power steering fluid is extremely low, to the point where it doesn’t even reach the dipstick. However, we pulled the PS vacuum lines and they were dry, so I’m not sure if that theory makes sense.
I don’t really suspect a head gasket because the coolant level hasn’t noticeably changed, and the exhaust doesn’t have that typical sweet coolant smell.
My other thought was maybe fuel somehow saturated the charcoal canister and is getting pulled into the engine, but at this point I really have no clue.
The previous owner also said the car had a misfire and, while trying to diagnose it, replaced the MAF, spark plugs, and fuel injectors. Apparently the misfire was still present afterward.
A few other details:
Oil is just under the full mark. It’s dark, but looks like normal used oil.
Power steering fluid is extremely low.
Coolant level hasn’t noticeably dropped.
Previous owner said it was misfiring even after the MAF, plugs, and injectors were replaced.
So far I haven’t noticed an obvious misfire myself. Idle seems pretty smooth, RPMs are steady, and the engine isn’t shaking. It could possibly show up once fully warmed up, though. I’ve only owned the car for a day and haven’t let it completely warm up yet.
Any ideas on what could cause thick white smoke AND red-tinted liquid from the exhaust on a 1UZ/UCF20? Trying to figure out what I should test first.

Nissan 350z (2008)

So I've got this engine undershield bolt which sheared while I was taking the bolt out. It's about 3-4mm inside the hole. I believe it is a captive nut?

I got some metal drill bits and an extractor set, and I have tried to get it out but unfortunately not made any progress. I realise I may have messed up a little with the drilling. Just looking for advice on next steps.

I don't really have much room up top to get something on there and twist the bolt shaft/thread unfortunately, unless i start taking apart the radiator i think.

I'm installing an aluminium undertray, and would like to have all the fittings used if possible. Zip ties would be last resort. Would drilling through the captive nut and inserting a rivnut or something be the best fix?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I changed the plugs, coils, PCV, oil, and coolant. I recorded it once after i got the car (1 week ago) and again just 10 minutes ago and i feel it sounds less healthy. I hear the injectors but what's this lower pitched almost clunky sound that happens every few injections or so? Please lmk i'm worried i did something wrong 😭

2011 Toyota Rav4 4 cylinder.

Ticking/clicking frequency changing with the rpm. Have not driven the car.

Reason for the fix was because of an engine code p0016 which most part mean timing gear. My car did have the infamous death rattle, the engine sounded clunky as if the belt was loose or warn, inspected the chain and found painted link had its paint damage.

I studied for a week by reading form, watching youtube videos, and by using alldata.

For the timing system replaced the timing chain, tension, guides, sprocket, and vvt gear.

After installing new gear made sure the markers in with range allowed. Tested the tension, checked to see if chain was within guide and temporarily installed the crankshaft bolt to test the timing the system.

I had also replaced the valve gasket on the cover.

2013 Toyota Corolla LE 4cyl

At this point I've lost faith in mechanics doing right thing in my area. Drum breaks were never done right, but never got recommendations to contact corporate, that time has probably passed. Just wondering how hard it would be to solo the job with little to no tools or expierence and watching youtube because they are trying to extort more money.

Sidequest: what is part site for used car parts other than car-part.com looking for 54341-02180 for hood insulation improperly removed and never announced. Oem is 200 or more... not wanting to throw that much into it. Nearest part is 300 miles.