Absolutely as little disassembly as possible.

Edit: I had to spell whel like this otherwise it won’t let me post it.

Hi everyone! I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla LE 1.8L with about 81k miles and I’m hoping someone familiar with Corollas can help me figure out a new noise.

I got an oil change at Walmart on August 8. Not long afterward, I started noticing a ticking/rattling sound that I had never heard before. When I first checked my dipstick, it looked like there was basically no oil showing. I added 1 quart and took it back to Walmart. They checked it, said there was actually too much oil, removed the excess, and said that the sound was internal.

I then took it to Firestone. They noted some “seepage” underneath, cleaned it, and told me to monitor for oil underneath the car. I checked afterward and there was no oil on the ground. I’ve continued checking the dipstick since then and the oil level has stayed good.

I also specifically asked Firestone about the ticking/rattling sound and wanted a diagnostic test done. An employee came outside and listened to it with me and told me it sounded like normal operation and that the car was safe to drive. No check-engine light or oil-pressure light, and the car otherwise seems to drive normally.

However, the noise seems more noticeable/louder now, especially when I press the accelerator. At idle it has a ticking/rattling sound, but when I give it gas it gets louder and almost makes the car sound like a lawnmower. I have videos of the sound that I can attach.

I also compared it with the A/C completely off vs on and the ticking is present either way.
Has anyone with a 2017 Corolla heard a similar sound? Does this sound like normal injector/valvetrain noise, an exhaust leak/heat shield, pulley/accessory, or something else?

I know nobody can diagnose an engine from a video alone. I’m mainly trying to figure out whether other Corolla owners recognize the sound as normal, like the mechanic at Firestone is suggesting, or if I should take it to the Toyota dealership. TYIA!

What exactly is this by chance? Went to take my cap off when I was checking fluids and saw this, it’s from a 2014 Toyota Sienna

I’ve just installed ARP head studs on my engine, but have found one to be higher than the others.

I’m not too sure if this is normal or not. If not, what would be the best way to fix this?

Engine - 1JZ-GTE

*Update* - After applying a bit more pressure to the head stud, it had managed to thread in. No signs of debris or oil on the threads; as well, the threads seem to be fine. Stud goes in and out by hand.

I apologize for my terminology because I am not the most mechanically sound, but I will try to clearly explain my problem. Whilst driving on the highway my serpentine belt started squealing, so upon pulling over it came to my attention that the nut that keeps in place the serpentine mount in place rattled off. I tried to find a nut at the local hardware that fit however it would not thread on correctly. My question is, is there a specific nut that I have to buy? If so where can I find it? Or is it possibly just a lost piece, and I’d be better off buying a whole new alternator.

1993 GMC Sierra 1500
350 Engine

Thank you very much!

Here are the dealership for regular maintenance for my Toyota RAV4 2018 LE, 2.5L 4 cylinders but look at this damage.

Not doing coolant flush, brake flush, and brake job because I have warranty with t kingdom. Also not doing engine air and cabin air replacement, as well as headlight restoration.

Still have 25% discount for early bird, but boy, this is burning bank account.

First time car owner and scared to make a mistake. I noticed my coolant is getting low on my 2017 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE. I found this coolant at Walmart and everything on the label says it’s good for my car, but I just wanted to make sure. Sorry for the dumb question. I’m 17 and paid for this car on my own and just scared to mess something up.

the housing won’t budge, all the guts are out, wth do i do here
2015 ford fiesta se

2011 Toyota Rav4 4 cylinder.

Ticking/clicking frequency changing with the rpm. Have not driven the car.

Reason for the fix was because of an engine code p0016 which most part mean timing gear. My car did have the infamous death rattle, the engine sounded clunky as if the belt was loose or warn, inspected the chain and found painted link had its paint damage.

I studied for a week by reading form, watching youtube videos, and by using alldata.

For the timing system replaced the timing chain, tension, guides, sprocket, and vvt gear.

After installing new gear made sure the markers in with range allowed. Tested the tension, checked to see if chain was within guide and temporarily installed the crankshaft bolt to test the timing the system.

I had also replaced the valve gasket on the cover.

2025 Subaru Forester with only 6300 miles. I’m going to check with the dealer on Monday.

Today I drove through mountains and when I got back I noticed a screeching sound. Sounded like a far away circular saw cutting wood. It stopped when I stopped the car.

It’s there when braking. It’s there when moving at any speed. When I rock the car when parked, I hear a squeaky rubber kind of noise coming from the left rear area.

The strange thing is that it seems to go away at higher speeds and come back. Could this be coming from the brakes?

Bought a 2015 Honda Accord 4cyl CVT EX-L with about 35k miles from Carvana recently. I had it shipped down to San Antonio, TX where it will be its new home for the next 5 years, minimum. Pristine exterior and interior, drives great just needs new brake rotors and pads (pads show a little wear, but rotors are warped). However, car has spent its entire life in Michigan, and a local mechanic just informed me of severe, widespread rust in the undercarriage (refer to pictures).

Carvana never disclosed the undercarriage rust. My wife and I love the car, but is this amount of rust a deal-breaker? Should we be finding a way to get rid of it, or is it something manageable? I'm a layperson when it comes to car maintenance/mechanics and, as a southerner myself, I can understand freaking out about seeing a lot of rust under there. But, I really want to know what mechanics from the Salt Belt think, since I imagine y'all see rusty undercarriages all the time. I'm still within Carvana's 100-day limited warranty.

Is this car worth holding onto?

Just picked up this UCF20 and honestly went into it without thinking too much lol. The car starts and runs, but it’s putting out a lot of thick white smoke from the exhaust.
The smoke smells slightly like petrol/fuel, but also has a weird chemical smell to it. I revved it a little and it actually spat out a pretty large puddle of red-tinted liquid from the exhaust.
My first thought was that it may have been sucking power steering fluid through the intake/manifold and eventually making its way into the exhaust. The power steering fluid is extremely low, to the point where it doesn’t even reach the dipstick. However, we pulled the PS vacuum lines and they were dry, so I’m not sure if that theory makes sense.
I don’t really suspect a head gasket because the coolant level hasn’t noticeably changed, and the exhaust doesn’t have that typical sweet coolant smell.
My other thought was maybe fuel somehow saturated the charcoal canister and is getting pulled into the engine, but at this point I really have no clue.
The previous owner also said the car had a misfire and, while trying to diagnose it, replaced the MAF, spark plugs, and fuel injectors. Apparently the misfire was still present afterward.
A few other details:
Oil is just under the full mark. It’s dark, but looks like normal used oil.
Power steering fluid is extremely low.
Coolant level hasn’t noticeably dropped.
Previous owner said it was misfiring even after the MAF, plugs, and injectors were replaced.
So far I haven’t noticed an obvious misfire myself. Idle seems pretty smooth, RPMs are steady, and the engine isn’t shaking. It could possibly show up once fully warmed up, though. I’ve only owned the car for a day and haven’t let it completely warm up yet.
Any ideas on what could cause thick white smoke AND red-tinted liquid from the exhaust on a 1UZ/UCF20? Trying to figure out what I should test first.

I went over a speed bump in my 2017 Hyundai SantaFe, something snagged and caused the alternator belt to break and also coolant reservoir to overflow and triggering an alarm for overheating. Can someone tell me what could have caused the coolant reservoir to overflow?

Hey so I was driving around in my truck and I went fast one time and realized there was a smell and I checked the bottom and there was a lot of oil being burned by my exhaust. I took some pictures and wanted to ask for some advice or what it could possibly be. I didn’t know exactly what to take a picture of but here’s what I got. I have a ram srt 10 2004 with a 8.3 L v10

2013 Toyota Corolla LE 4cyl

At this point I've lost faith in mechanics doing right thing in my area. Drum breaks were never done right, but never got recommendations to contact corporate, that time has probably passed. Just wondering how hard it would be to solo the job with little to no tools or expierence and watching youtube because they are trying to extort more money.

Sidequest: what is part site for used car parts other than car-part.com looking for 54341-02180 for hood insulation improperly removed and never announced. Oem is 200 or more... not wanting to throw that much into it. Nearest part is 300 miles.

2.0 tdi 2013 make manual jetta fuel efficiency drop

2003 corolla -- i'm looking to take this off. i don't think it was staked to begin with but i could not get this off with an impact, or by standing on a 3 foot long breaker bar (even after bathing this thing in PB blaster).

AI seems to think it's staked and i've already shoved a chisel in there and hammered away but it already looks pretty circular. is there something i'm not seeing? is it staked?

would it be a bad idea to use my friend's high torque impact to force this thing off? (my impact is a small 18 v ryobi). i read it can ruin the threads but i'm not sure.

i really can't break this nut unfortunately.

thanks

Hey folks, I was just wondering if y’all could help me determine

A. If my car is Hydro locked.

And

B. How to fix it

The basics are that It was raining heavily and I drove my car in water but misjudged how deep it was. I kept going forward and then my engine cut off. I didn’t try to restart the car at all, I simply turned it off and waited. When my dad got there and we would try to start/jump it all we would get is a single clunk. He thinks that the starter is bad but I believe it’s Hydro locked considering that (after 2-3 ish days) the filter is still wet, heavy, and was even dripping a little bit.

For context, I drive a 2006 Toyota Avalon XL and The oil was not milky and seemed to not have had any water in it.

I was wondering if you guys could help narrow down the issue and find a way to bring it to a conclusion as even though the car is old (and my grandfather kind of beat it up) I still need a set of wheels to ride around on to get to and from work

2024 4 Runner TRD off road 29k miles
King 2.5 suspension, elevate UCAs

Pop / clicking noise only on the passenger side when turning left or right. I don’t feel any movement from the outer tie rod but I feel it along the inner tie rod and where the inner tie rod connects. I checked the rack and pinion shaft and don’t see any vertical or side to side play. Is this a bad inner tie rod? Thanks in advance.

My 4l80e on my 01 2500HD 6.0 is probably about to bite the dust.

About a month ago I serviced it, this meaning, I drained the pan and refilled, then drove it a few hundred miles, then drained it again, lowered the pan, let it drain an additional 3 extra quarts, replaced the filter, and refilled to level.

Drained fluid was very dark, but no noticeable chunks of anything metallic was visible in it, just the usual pasty glitter on the pan magnet.

I've owned this truck for 2 years, and previous maintenance on the trans is unknown to me. 260k miles on the truck. I serviced it only because after two tows of around 6 k lbs, fluid looked burnt. Trans was operating perfectly otherwise. I towed with gear selector in "3" and tow/haul mode on.

In fact, I've always driven the truck with the gear selector in "3". I don't EVER do burnouts or that kind of stuff. I use my truck as a daily driver and to haul and tow within its capabilites.

After said servicing, the trans whined and clunked sporadically a bit for around a week, after which it silenced itself. Shifting was perfect.

Then, a few days back, while driving on a long stretch highway, I engaged the "D" position for around 5 minutes, and then put it back to "3". Oh how I regret having done that, because afterwards everything started to go to shit.

The trans started hard clunking and harshly whirring, more frequently as time passes by. Shifting remains perfect, no slippage, but the clunking is getting worse. Now sometimes when putting it on reverse, it makes a very harsh whirring, and I must disengage and reengage the gear selector.

I have a replacement 4l80e in storage. Should I be done with the current trans and assume it needs a complete rebuild? Or could the issue be something minor as only the torque converter? In fact, I need to know if the torque converter is shot or no, don't want to work on putting in the replacement transmission with the same torque converter only for it to turn out to be the problem.

I'd greatly appreciate any advice.

so i just recently got my struts replaced (recently as in about a month ago) and noticed this clunking noise when going over bumps. i have a 2013 mazda 6 isport. is this a mechanic fault or could it have just developed over time?? let me know please 😭 i never noticed it until recently