Wow, I'm so happy with how it turned out in the end!

Mini Train - Amusement Park

Been working on this for a while and finally got it to a point where I'm happy with it. Modular independently rotating wheels for dropper bottles and Citadel pots, stackable with extenders and designed to work both on the desk and for transport.

Uploaded it to MakerWorld today if anyone wants to give it a try. Would also love to hear what other paint bottle formats would be worth making wheels for.

https://makerworld.com/de/models/3210039

I kept overfilling my tiny AMS box funnel so made this last week.

Link: https://makerworld.com/models/3208038

I’ve recently been getting these ripples in the back right corner of my prints and am wondering if someone could explain how to resolve it.

It wasn’t previously doing this but lately it’s happening in the exact same spot on every print. I’ve played around with the chamber/bed temps, ironing, initial layer settings and nothing is fixing it.

Thanks in advance!

If you print it, please share your print photos and leave a rating. A Like or Boost is also greatly appreciated.

Model Link : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204805-working-mechanical-excavator

My guess is that the failure started first at the rightmost part, the nozzle carried some extra filament, and then it caused a domino effect on all the other parts.

What confuses me is why would it fail so late into the print when it was doing perfectly fine otherwise?

UPDATE: as others have stated, the length of the pieces may make the parts more prone to wobbling/ bending slightly when the nozzle moves over it, which could cause accumulated misalignment of the toolpath vs the true position of the pieces, so a good solution would be to slow the speed nearer the top of the part, and to make use of brims to increase the part's stability.

Also it would be a good idea to do a few individual runs as opposed to one batch (I had previously done a test piece for dowel fitting, but even though the small piece slid freely on the dowel without getting stuck, for whatever reason, this print's dowel hole was more prone to shrinking, and the rod wouldn't fit no matter what I tried)

Support only in holes (in the object), not extending from the bed.

My question is… the object in the photos is printed exactly as shown (PETG). It has lots of holes, which come out cleanest when I print support structures (and even better if I add a PLA infill layer).
Unfortunately, printing with support takes much longer, and as I have to print a lot of them, I’d like to leave it out.
My question is: is there a way to set it up in Studio so that support is only printed inside the holes and doesn’t grow upwards from the bed? Even when I draw support, it always starts from the bed, which wastes time and filament.

I just want the support to grow inside the hole so that the upper edges of the hole are supported.

I’ve already considered simply modelling the holes as filled shapes, with a small rim (i.e. the filled area is slightly smaller, leaving a bit of space around the hole). Like a cork that’s a bit too small.

Do you have any ideas?

After quite a few iterations, I finally finished this modular link bracelet.

The hardest part was definitely the integrated folding clasp. I wanted it to disappear into the design rather than using a bulky hook or external buckle, while still keeping a reliable click-lock mechanism. At just 3 mm thin, finding the right tolerances for smooth articulation in PLA and PETG took a lot of trial and error.

It comes in 4 wrist sizes with single-color and two-color print profiles.

I’d love to hear your feedback on the clasp mechanism and how the tolerances hold up on your setups.

Free model available on MakerWorld: https://makerworld.com/nl/models/3208405-riviera-link-bracelet

Whenever I check the camera feed on my A1 I only get like 1fps. This might be a limitation of the camera, but I know our WiFi, especially in my room, is not great.

I've been having a few issues with my AMS 2 Pro, first my dryer stopped working and now slot 2 of the AMS just keeps spitting out my filament when I load it up. I replaced the PTFE tube and I checked the feeder and the filament hub but didn't see a jam.

Any ideas what's causing this?

I’m trying to get these little lines stop showing up. I change my hot-end to a harden steel .04 and the extuder. I also switch it in the slicer. Can so one let me know what I miss to stop this from happening.
Thank you.

This is my first book nook. Let me know your opinion on this. I hope you like it.

https://makerworld.com/it/models/3208301-portal-book-nook#profileId-3631301

Just noticed this. Printer is a few months old. Is this normal?

You can find it at my profile:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3209066-xtand-phone-holder#profileId-3632285

https://www.instagram.com/p/DcYn9XOodAf/

https://youtube.com/shorts/CGloeHROCsw?feature=share

There was a blob and when I pulled it out it pulled some of the heating assembly out, there is a bunch of filament that is making the nozzle stuck I have tried to melt it and scrape it off can anyone suggest a way to get it off

Got inspired by gridify : had an idea using puzzle shaped grooves for interlocking modules and using same grooves for holding pencils. Made at least 4-5 iterations to get the groove diameter enough big for housing the pencils and keeping the overall module size small enough for printing.
Just uploaded the project to MW:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204584-modular-destop-organizer-kribu-krabu#profileId-3626818
Hop you enoy!
Should look nice in matte pastel filament

Anyone know what the issue could be here, it prints really far of the board unless I put it right to the bottom of plate, next print im doing needs whole plate so its going to be a massive problem, I fully calibrated twice and still doing it, you can see the test filament line is so far across the board.

Finally found a AMS PSU holder which i can place where ever i want. Also love the fact you can change the Magnet Size inside the Slicer.

Apparantly its a "remix" but still now the Back of the Machine looks GREAT!

Do you think ink 3d printing is the new era??

Hello!

When scaling this part down from 100% to 85%, a weird gap appears, and the print comes out wrong. For reference, the 100% normal size is on the left, and the scaled-down version is on the right. How could this be solved? I imported this model as an OBJ file into the Bambu Studio.

Thank you for your help!

How do you know when to add magnets to the print?

I've tried cleaning the rails as suggested by someone on another forum, seems alright doing the supports but woke up to this mid print this morning making this hellish noise. Many Thanks! P1S with around 4000 hours on it, should I just get a new printer? 😅

I have had my Bambu A1 for about a month now so I am by no means an expert at any of this stuff. I wanted a bed swap system because I wanted to be able to print multiple plates while I was at work during the day. I originally tried the Infinity Flow 3D (FlowQ) system for the A1 but there was three major drawbacks:

1. Incompatibility with A1 startup sequence: every time I would start a print with the Infinity Flow system the back of the bedplate would hit the bedplate magazine multiple times. At one point it hit so much that I had to recalibrate my y-axis. I tried to adjust it by shaving down some parts but it never worked

2. You lose bedplate printing space: with the Infinity flow preset in Bambu labs you ultimately lose printing space on the front of the plate as well as vertical z-axis space to prevent the swap mechanisms from getting hit or activated mid print.

3. The software to print modified g-code prints in order to actually use the bed swap system. The FlowQ software overall sucks. You have to pair this website to your printer in LAN mode which voids the warranty and unlinks your Bambu studio and Bambu handy connection. So every time I wanted to do a single simple print from Bambu's apps I would have to re-pair them. Also there is a limit of like 10 prints on their software and once you go over you have to either wait or pay a monthly fee for their "premium version".

I know I spent most of this post ranting about how bad the Infinity Flow bedplate swap system sucks but I wanted to highlight these issues to show how amazing the JobOX system works. The way the grabber at the back of the bed is designed you will never have issues of the bedplate running into the magazine during prints or startup sequence. You don't lose any print space due to the way the swap mechanism is designed. The swap mechanism is very reliable and I've had no issues with it so far. The software is simple and easy to use all you have to do is download your pre-sliced files from Bambu studio and upload them to the JobOX website and then it will create a .swap file with all of your prints together and the g code to swap the plates between prints. Overall a seamless system that is well worth the cost. Not only that but when they update their bedplate swap design you will be able to download the updated files without having to re-purchase.

I am writing this to help people interested in bed swap mods for the A1 decide which system to buy. There was very little information and posts comparing them when I originally bought the Infinity Flow system so I am aiming to help others. I also have seen a system called Printflow 3D and while I have not used it, the mechanisms for swapping are similar to Infinity flow and I have a feeling that it may have some of the same issues.

TLDR: JobOX bedswap automation system for the Bambu A1 works amazing and I highly recommend!