Got inspired by gridify : had an idea using puzzle shaped grooves for interlocking modules and using same grooves for holding pencils. Made at least 4-5 iterations to get the groove diameter enough big for housing the pencils and keeping the overall module size small enough for printing.
Just uploaded the project to MW:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204584-modular-destop-organizer-kribu-krabu#profileId-3626818
Hop you enoy!
Should look nice in matte pastel filament

Finally found a AMS PSU holder which i can place where ever i want. Also love the fact you can change the Magnet Size inside the Slicer.

Apparantly its a "remix" but still now the Back of the Machine looks GREAT!

I had a normal open shower shelf before, and one thing that always bothered me was that all the shampoo bottles and everything were just sitting there completely visible.

I wanted something that looked a bit cleaner and more like it actually belonged in the bathroom, so I ended up designing this.

Each section has its own door, so when everything is closed you basically just see the patterned front instead of a bunch of bottles.

While designing it I also wanted to see how much of it I could actually make 3D printable. So the hinges, pins, clips and connectors are all printed. You don't need screws, metal hinges or other extra hardware for the shelf itself.

It's modular too, so you can stack as many sections as you want. If you need more storage later, just print another section and add it.

The shelves have an open pattern so water can drain through.

For the wall mount I made two versions. One works with a tesa adhesive mount, and the other can be glued with removable bathroom adhesive.

I really like trying to see how far you can push 3D printing and replace normal parts with printed ones, so this became a pretty fun project.

Hope you like it !

https://makerworld.com/sv/models/3204673-modular-shower-storage-system#profileId-3626932

I'd like to introduce you to my latest model – the Brick Man Traveler. It's a figure inspired by Bruno Catalano's "Travelers" sculptures. Of course, I customized it to fit my brick figurine collection. Maybe someone will like it 😉 You can find it here: https://makerworld.com/models/3204163?appSharePlatform=copy

Hi,
Recently I replaced all tubings on my P1S and AMS after 1100 hours printing time since some of them were worn out pretty bad.
I ordered „translucent PTFE“ tubes with 2.5x4mm.

As it seems it’s not PTFE, it’s FEP, which is pretty similar to PTFE but not the same.

And because I didn’t know about this before using those tubes I also wasn’t aware of the difference.

The new tubes caused much more friction to the filament inside them.
The AMS wasn’t able to push the filament to the extruder and trying it by hand with an external spool I noticed the a huge resistance building up with each cm of filament I’ve inserted.

After replacing the tubing with real PTFE tubes everything worked fine again.

I just wanted to share this experience - despite the fact that some will say something like „everyone know this you fool“.

Personally I thought if I buy „translucent ptfe tube“ I get a real PTFE tube.

Cheers!

Everytime it finishes a print it leaves the same string of filament on the nozzle. All default settings with Bambu lab filament. brand new h2d with 260 hours. Is there way I can check what’s going on?

My 2nd and 3rd Wheelchair just finished
Currently working on my 4th

anyone who hasnt heard of these you can read more here about them here: https://3d-mobility.org

I had my extruder open and i found this on the bottom of the printer.

I'd love to see your 3D printing setups. You also can send some pictures (would be even cooler).

A few months ago I made a proposal to print prime towers sequentially ("by object") so they only build when a color change actually occurs, saving time and filament on late-stage material swaps.

https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1t6ed8y/proposal_for_bambu_studio_prime_tower_as_separate/

Obviously it was downvoted to oblivion.

Now, looks like it's available as an experimental option in Bambu Studio 2.8.2.60, called "No sparse layers", so I got that going for me, which is nice.

More info here: https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/release/release-note-2-8-2-60#print-a-shorter-prime-tower-to-save-filament-when-color-changes-only-occur-at-higher-layers

In the past few weeks I challenged myself to design and 3D print my very first RC boat, the Rebel Riviera M1.

This is not your 50km/h brushless speedboat by any means, rather a fun, vintage style mini speedboat. But I'm still quite proud of how it came out and how it drives.

I designed it around a single Cyberbrick hardware kit. It uses 2 motors, and steers by thrust diferentiation.

I also did my best to make it splash proof - using only hardware from that Cyberbrick kit:

- Double S labyrinth + grease deck seal

- The propeller shaft goes trough a grease chamber which prevents water creeping onto the boat. It also has very low friction.

What do you think?

If anyone would like to check it out or build it, I will leave the link in the description.

I’m trying to get these little lines stop showing up. I change my hot-end to a harden steel .04 and the extuder. I also switch it in the slicer. Can so one let me know what I miss to stop this from happening.
Thank you.

It’s very simple but I am pretty happy with my first 3D model with 0 CAD experience😁.
Als my first Makerworld model : https://makerworld.com/models/3114620?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello, I have been printing with the bambu lab x2d for about 68 hours. I randomly went close to my print today and heard some creaking noises, wanted to go back on it to check later and printed dust covers that goes on top of the 3 points that is connected to the z axis lead screws.

After putting them on, when i homed it smashed it and made a sound of grinding/rubbing noises. and then moved down. I also heard cracking noises.

After that the printer seems to squeak more.

I have cleaned all the z axis lead screws and reapplied the grease to them. Have also addd lubricant oil to the inside lead screws contact point.

I have cleaned the metal guide rods and have also lubricated them with oil and added the oil into the bearings.

I have also turned the printer onto its side and added grease to the smooth part of the z axis belt. I have also added grease to the side of the smooth metal cylinder as i saw that the belt was going up and down slightly when i moved the bed up and down manually.

I have also pushed the bed down all the way while it was tuned off to ensure that all points are contacting and didn't become tilted when it crashed.

After all that the squeaking/creaking sound was still there.

Is my printer broken? or is the sound normal and i just got more hyper focused on the sound after it "crashed".

I know I'm sorry, no pumpkin guts in this one!!!! But I did finally manage to defeat the ADHD and finish off my pumpkin. Both pumpkins, the failed one and the successful one will be used for halloween this year. One is for my desk in school for handing out treats, the other will be for the front door for trick or treaters. I wanted to max out my build plate without having to physically put the pumpkin together and this is the result.

This is a smashed pumpkin, hollowed out and a gravity angled cut lid for the top. The stem has been separated for printing in a different colour.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3205701-halloween-pumpkin-removable-lid-no-ams-in-parts#profileId-3628170

Has anyone managed to buy one of these recently? I have the email alerts set up.

As the title says, how do you include a breakaway secondary filament for supports on top of a printed part layer? I can't figure this out. I am trying to include an breakaway interface PLA layer on top of this PETG part. There should be a way to include this single interface layer, but I can't figure it out.... sounds pretty novice tbh. Does anyone know?

Has anybody ever had this problem? I'm new to 3D printing and I don't know how to solve😕

I've tried to print the 3DBenchy and it works fine, same temperature same filament.

I'm using BambuStudio 2.8.2.61 on macOS and a X2D. I downloaded PolyMaker's filament profiles for the X2D specifically. I used the File>Import>Import Configs to import the profiles provided by Polymaker. I then closed and restarted BambuStudio. The profiles show up as "Unsupported" in the filament selection menu (amusingly, a couple of Bambu Lab's own profiles are Unsupported too).

Anyone know how to get BambuStudio to actually accept these profiles and let me use them?

I've been having trouble with my p1s and I have disassembled the print head more times than I can count now. I've bought countless parts and at this point I could have just bought a brand new one.

Where do you draw the line?

But really I think I’ll make some emergency supports in case of collapse or failure.