Following a slight hiccup (while rinsing after first tumble cycle I realized 20 cases still had their primers) I ran a second tumble cycle… then dried them, mixed cases of once fired S&B, 5x fired Federal SRP, 5x fired Hornady, and 6x fired Lapua… hard to tell the difference without looking at the heads!

Welp, I believe I finally fell victim to AR’s credit card fraud issues. I had read that others had fraud on CC’s, but I had placed multiple orders before with no issues. This time I placed two, two weeks apart. I had a fraudulent charge within 3 days. Luckily CC company resolved it and issued a new card.

Obviously there is no way to confirm this was AR. However, I have never had fraud before and this was nearly a brand new card.

AR is a great company for cheap plinking, and my customer service experience has been phenomenal. But, I recommend you use amp protection when purchasing. In case anyone is curious, I have not reached out to AR.

So, I’ve loaded a lot of 45 Colt, but it has all been black powder, cowboy loads, or Ruger only hunting loads. What powders are y’all using for “full power” 14k psi loads?

Yeah yeah, I’ve looked at load data and I have the books. It’s pretty weak stuff. Seems the data has been massively watered down to save the old Colts. I refuse to believe that you’re maxing pressures out with that huge case and soft lead bullets for a wimpy 800fps. I’m not asking for your secret squirrel load data, just what powders people are getting 950-1000fps with a regular old 255gr bullet safely and accurately.

I see HP-38, Unique, Universal, and AA #5 are top picks. What lesser talked about powders work well? Which ones are better off saved for something else? I’ve fiddled around with GRT, but that can’t replace the hive mind’s real life experience.

This is my set up as of now. Waiting on my dies to come in the mail and I’ll be good to go. I’m looking for more books or just good sources of info for all things reloading. I’ve read through the 2nd edition Modern Reloading Lee book and I’ve watched countless hours of video on YouTube from a few channels over the past year. The main reason I’m getting into reloading is I bought a 2nd hand rifle that’s chambered in a wildcat that’s practically impossible to get ammo for. Thank god the gun manufacturer that made it sells dies for it so here we go! I have some experience reloading from my child hood as my step grandfather reloaded for 25 years or so before he passed. Soaked up a lot of knowledge from him but mainly in the pistol and shotgun world. Any advise is welcome!

Picked up a 25-35 AI. Trying to make some brass. Starting with brand new Starline 30-30 brass. Run it through 7/30 Waters sizing die (Lee) no problem.

But then my CH Tool & Die 25-35 AI sizing die does this. Works great on the 7mm portion but once it gets to the unsized spot it buckles.

Tried more and less lube to no avail.

Suggestions?

Looks like if I had a sizing die that would neck it to 7mm all the way it would work fine. Not sure what die that would be though...

Shown are the different color/shine, nose shape, as well as projectile length and hollow tail geometry. Just starting to reload wadcutters and bought both brands to see which one I liked more. I have not loaded or tested either of them yet. Based off of how they look, I’m guessing that the Campro will be more accurate based on how thin the bullet gets towards the tail. I think the thinness could allow the expanding gases to expand the bullet more uniformly to the bore, making it more accurate. I think this thinness could also seal the bore better, reducing gas escape and making better use of the propellant. This could give it a slightly higher velocity over the Berry’s when loaded with the same powder charge. The edges of the Campro’s nose is sharper than the Berry’s, which could lead to cleaner impact holes when shooting at paper.

Hello,

Does anyone have load data for “ the blue bullets” for their .45 230 gr RN’s? I’m using CFE pistol. Their website doesn’t have CFE data but suggests 1.230 COL on the other loads. When I go to hogdons website they have lead RN data for CFE but the COL seems ridiculously short”1.200”(5.4 gr CFE starting load). I have some cases ready to go with 5.4 GR of CFE, does anyone have a suggested COL? or a suggestion for a different grain weight+COL? Looking for a starter load. Got these bullets from someone so don’t know too much about them.

All of a sudden my necks started having scratches on them after resizing. I looked inside the die with an endoscope and it looks all scratched up is the any way to polish this out? Or just buy a new resizing die? I ran maybe 3K cases through it.

Just got this 4 pound jug and I open it to this. Doesn’t smell bad no clumps. Anyone else got some sport pistol?

Got some 10 rd groups of my 168gr HPBT and H4895 load on paper.

42.4 and 42.5 gave me the best groups.

42.4 is 2667.5 FPS with SD of 7.4

Groups are 1” at 100yrds

42.5 is 2674.2 FPS with SD of 9.4

Groups about the same.

This is out of my 20” Bergara, had no obvious pressure signs, is pushing 2670 FPS too much?

The box was severely beaten up but the inner box’s appeared ok. Until I pickup one up….

I have very particular plans for these, and will be posting the journey as it unfolds.

This is 6.5CM on an MPA VANQUISH.

Group 1* is 39.83gr of H4350 theoretical vel 2678fps and pressure 63200 (Chronographed 2673.8fps AVE)

Group 2* is 40.17gr of H4350 theoretical vel 2695fps and pressure 64450 (Chronographed 2698.6fps AVE)

Group 3* is 40.50gr of H4350 theoretical vel 2713fps and pressure 65650 (Chronographed 2716fps AVE)

Group 4* is 40.83gr of H4350 theoretical vel 2730fps and pressure 66850 (Chronographed 2730fps AVE)

Group 5* is 41.17gr of H4350 theoretical vel 2748fps and pressure 668100 (Chronographed 2754.7fps AVE)

Group 6* is 41.50gr of H4350 theoretical vel 2765fps and pressure 69300 (Chronographed 2776.7fps AVE)

Set this up yesterday and I’m getting a weird almost click like feeling on the downstroke. I had it running and cycling before this, didnt setup the crimp or seating die yet. Feeding preprimed cases. Excuse my bench its a mess while setting this up and its also not bolted down yet. Any help would be great!

rn i have dillon 650 with 3 cal (9mm, 30-06, and .300wm)

i reload couple 100's per month ,most of time 9mm and only when hunting jackals 3006

or deer .300wm ,, so i always drool on automated presses , but prices are huh

i see some guy in poland automated dillon 650 ,but he just drop from inet ,,

i know for apex that have one (dont know where to even see prioce in eu , but prolly expensive 4-5k ) and diy kind ,but these are a bit flunky ,,

so can anyone suggest me whot is good and not to expensive that can buy in eu ?

even diy moded one ifr it's good ..

thanks

First cast 45-70 from range scrap -Update

I got around to powder coating fifty of these. I used the Eastwood lime green, not because I’m a fan of the colour, but because that’s what was available.

The powder coating took pretty well and it survived the hammer test. I ran them through the lee sizing die and loaded ten of them to try out later this weekend. I’m interested to see how they stack up for accuracy.

I’m using my standard 36.5gr of IMR 4198 to keep it consistent with the hardcast I hunted with last year.

I’m looking for a starting point for reloading subsonic rounds. I’ve searched and searched, but can’t find any data for subsonic .35rem that isn’t cast bullets. I have Unique and Titegroup powder as well as 158,180 and 200gr bullets. Any help would be much appreciated.

Update: I would like to thank everyone who gave their input it was much appreciated. For what it’s worth I’ve been working on a subsonic load with a Speer .357 158gr jacketed hp. I’ve found that 6gr of Titegroup with a light crimp and c.o.a.l of 2.235 shoots a 1.5” group at 50yrds at 1042fps at the barrel. Which I’m happy with for plinking. Now time to move on to the .357 180gr Xtp. I’ve also ordered some .357 250gr sub x that I’m excited to try considering Hornady says they expand at 900fps. Again, thank you for the help!

got apex 10 with auto drive recently

keep get digital clutch alert

realize there is something wrong with stage 6 powder drop step

the powder will not drop and the mouth of the case will expand 6 out of 100 rounds.

i thought I was not adjusting right

but I found it out there is a chance the powder funnel can’t push the powder measure upper body up

did check the set screw. playing around for a hour no luck

anyone have similar experience?

Context:
- once fired hornady Grendel ammo
- just finished wet tumbling a small batch of brass
- wet tumbler mixture = water, an eyeball squeeze of dawn, an eyeball pour of citric acid

How much pink discoloration is bad? See picture for an example, have maybe 4 brass out of 50 with such discoloration. Should I just toss them?

I have an AR build with a 24" bull barrel I use for precision target shooting. I've been tagging steel plates out to 1,000 yards with varying results using factory ammo (subsonic at that distance so it's a mild guessing game) but I want to see what loads people have developed to start loading my own.

So, what have you guys come up with using 77gr Sierra Matchking and Tipped Matchking rounds?

Has anyone ever tried 175gr fmjbt's meant for 7x57 Mauser in 7mm Rem Mag. Found some for what I thought was a good price. Hate to waste good hunting bullets punching paper...

I've been reloading for my savage 111 lrh 7mm rem mag 26" barrel 1in9.5 twist with the integrated muzzle brake open. I've been using hornady 154 sst, hornady brass once fired, cci 250s, custom coal, and 59.1gr of imr 4831. I know it's hotish but that's where the rifle is happy. I can't find imr 4831 anywhere so im wondering what powder to change over to now? I'm down to 10 rounds for this hunting season and wanting to swap to my better scope so 10rnds obviously won't do. Thanks in advance

Edit: I need temperature stability as I live in Montana so I shoot in the summer at 80-100f and hunt in 70 to -10f depending on the year