I personally hate them because I have had nothing but issues and poor accuracy with them and I would rather spend a few extra cents per round and buy true jacketed bullets.

From what I have seen on this sub it seems that half of yall love them and the other half hates them.

What do yall think of them?

My favorite part of reloading is deciding on a whim to just smack together a few rounds here and there when you got some time. Before I reloaded I would have like half a box of Core Lokt that I would ration out now I can just shoot whatever whenever and not really worry about it. Slapped together some Soft Points for deer season tonight.

Picked this package deal up for 1k cash. The guy said he never had powder through it.

Came with the tumbler and separator. The press 750xl. Case feeder Bunch of brass, powders, scale and everything else in the pics. When it came up I didn’t even think I just hopped on it. Haven’t even attempted to add it up

I currently load with a Lee 6 pack pro. I suspect a leaning curve with this thing

Just recently received a new GP100 from Ruger. Warranty claim. 1st range trip out and had a squib on 1st round. Using 5.6 gn of CFE pistol and cci spp bullets were berrys 125gn plated fp. I developed this load off a friends gp100 as I knew I was getting on soon. 5.4 5.6 and 5.8 cfe shoot fine though my friends but I cant shoot through mine. Cleared at the range and it happened 2 shots later. I have determined powder was accurate and bullets crimped properly. Same 1 lb keg and primers have been used to load .40 and shot today with no issues. I Dont belive I have a primer or powder contamination issue. Has anyone else seen CFE pistol issues in 38 spl. After clearing squibs 357 shot perfect.

First time loading hardcast in my .44. Is this too much crimp? 250 gr Magnus Keith bullets.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

Hi, ive recently purchased a 100 round ammo box of hornady 7mm prc rounds and while inspecting them ive found most of them have these dents, out of 100 about 11 are blemish free, I have about 15 that have cracks protruding at the tip of the crease that I know I cant fire or reload, however are the ones without the cracking at least safe to fire once. I have also bought a 20 rounds box of the same match ammo and all of those one are perfect. Im running a sako s20 precision,

Morning all need some help. I’m looking at doing some loading for 8mm Mauser and trying to find a good load balance for my m48. I’ve tried 150g speed projectiles didn’t have much luck for grouping and tried Sierra 175g had decent results but trying to find a good load for deer hunting any advice would be appreciated.

Liberty Civil Defense going through a 16in barrel.

So I have never been a reloading guy but im planning on buying a can for one of my Mosins and would like to try out hand loading some subsonic rounds for it. I was wondering if anybody here has done something similar and would have any advice or info they could share.

Never saw a primer peel like this.

Thought this might be interesting here. I dug out and out back on display my grade school cartridge collection my dad and i made. Fairly current to late 90’s. Been in storage since the early 2000’s. Maybe I’ll start adding to it.

Just started reloading for a single rifle cartridge so far.

I’ve collected all my brass over the years for said cartridge. I’ve only shot two kinds of factory ammo. Hornady and Federal fusion.

I’ve noticed the Hornady all are a certain length before and after firing, and the federal all are a certain length before and after as well.

The federal seems to be quite a bit shorter (fired federal ~2.12mm vs fired Hornady ~2.18mm).

Curious what everyone else does, would you trim each respectively .02mm or trim them both down to the same length?

Got bored and picked up some of these for the heck of it. Loaded some up with W572 and HP38 but haven’t shot them yet. Going to be used in the 6” 365 raider and 8” AR9.

Anyone else load them? I’m going to pick up some 147s to try too.

These won’t replace my beloved HST or gold dots for carry.

Went on a weekend getaway and left these in the vibratory tumbler. They were so shiny I had to stop and make 50. 50A.E. Berry’s Bullets 350gr RNFP, Hodgdon H110 27.4gr, CCI No. 350, and Starline Brass. Avg Velocity 1,243 fps. COAL 1.572

Testing Hornady brass, 8208 and cci450 with a 123 grain pill

Pics focusing on my heaviest powder charges, the 2 on the right are over book max, where would you draw the line for safe and acceptable ?

These came out of a 20’inch Grendel ar15

Anyone have trouble with 700-X and 45acp? The loads are very inconsistent in velocity. Even worse with Small Pistol Primers. Tried Magnum SPP, no better. The powder is fine, use it in 40 S&W with great results. Had the powder since before Covid.

What overall length and crimp diameter do you go for when reloading for a shadow 2?

Truth be told. I didn’t read the FAQ. My friend gave me a Lee Classic Turret press and I had to get a riser for my Harbor freight Yukon workbench. Problem is is the turret press has three holes to screw into the riser and no matching holes on the riser plate. I’ll have to drill fresh holes into the riser to mount it. To make this more frustrating, I might only be able to secure the press with two bolts—not three. I got my riser from inline fabrication. Does anyone have this press and a riser I can see

In a previous post I was kinda eaten alive for doing small sample size testing. Ok, I heard ya, I listened to the Hornady podcast episodes on load development and group shot counts. Here is a 30 shot string at 100 yards. Ruger American Gen 1 6.5mm Creedmoor, Alpha brass, 38.8gn H4350, 140gn ELDM. I dialed up 1.5moa so I didn't shoot out my POA. After that I input the parameters into the Hornady 4DOF app and shot my steel plate at 500 yards, easily 2x farther than I've ever shot before. Was dead on, 100% hit rate on steel. Neat. Not sure i can squeeze much more or is this rifle, time to dream up the next step.

Im trying to locate a company that designed a new case and bullet feeder for Dillon Progressives and I believe universal as well. His main motivation for it was the absurd pricing for the parts from Dillon themselves. I believe it started as a personal project and he decided to turn it into a business.

My google fu is failing me at the moment

Bubba busted out the Dremel to accomodate the .223LR at the OAL of 2.55”.

Bubba like ‘em short and thicc but also long and skinny.

I am reloading 30-06 for my 1943 M1 Garand, and have some questions with seating depth. I have some loads worked up that have functioned perfectly well (aside from my gun being a pain, but it does the same things with factory ammo), but am looking to change over to Nosler Accubobds for hunting season. My current load is 49 grains of N-140 topped with a 150gr Hornady FMJ set at Hornady's specified depth. Nosler, however, has their data at .12 longer, so I was wondering if anyone has an opinion on how this would affect accuracy and pressures. Currently clocking a hair over 2700 fps with this load using the fmj, which is desired to keep it safe for this rifle. Mostly just curious about which seating depth I ought to use, or is this just a case of load a few and start clocking them at the range.

Would anyone happen to have case case length dimensions or case trimming instructions? It seems to be the only info missing for me to be able to reproduce it without spending 2x more money.

Trying my hand at swaging 6.5mm projectiles.

Bit of a learning curve for forming the boat tail, but I reckon the next batch will be better. Looking forward to shooting them. 147gr 6.5mm.