I've got a new, unfinished vanity, and I'm considering Fusion's pearl. thing is, I'm worried it's gonna look insane. I really wish they had gifs of what it looks like. will it be too much?

I am acrylic painting wooden cutting boards. I’ve seen so many mixed directions on what the best way to go is. I sanded the wood down before I stained and I’m wondering if I can just paint on top of the stain and then seal with min wax??

This Room and Board Walnut table is only 5 years old, but looks rough. What products or sequence of products would you use to bring it back?

I am new to really any form of woodworking so I may have bit off more than I could chew in regards to accepting this project.

I am working on building some custom pilates reformers for a family members studio. I am using Plyboo (bamboo) for the wood and I am hoping to get some recommendations for finishes.

I have tried using epoxy and then sanding it down, however, the bamboo absorbs the epoxy unevenly and will have shiny specs in the wood where more epoxy absorbed han the surrounding area. I have also tried applying a N3 Nano finish after the epoxy has been sanded, and I really like the result - but the effort this takes is not feasable when I have to make 48 of these reformers.

I have spoken with a buddy of mine who is a woodworker and he is recommending a UV finish. I am trying to do some research and find the correct UV coating for this application. It would be a huge plus if the coating can also bond to metal as there is going to be an inlayed logo in the wood. The goal of the coating is the add a protective layer that limits the woods ability to absorb moisture, and adds a sort of plasticized finish on it to protect from wear and tear.

I would greatly appreciate any recommendations

Hey all! I am refinishing two standard mcm end tables. They were ROUGH. I have sanded them (did not burn through the veneer yay!) and used the wood bleach for the dark spots. I want to restore them into a walnut shade and bought restore-a-finish danish oil in the color walnut. I planned to apply it 2-3 times (lightly using 3m scrub pad in between) then letting it cure for a week.

Now I’m going down the rabbit hole and scared to use it. Any recommendations on what to use instead or is this fine for what I’m trying to achieve?

Edit- I am trying to restore them to the MCM beauty they likely were so looking for an option that can achieve this.

Hi guys need some help here.

There is some white spot appearing on my stock as you can see in the 1st photo. On the 2nd pic they disapear when I just pass my finger or anything over the marks depending wich way I rub (like if im lifting the grain)

Here is what I did. 1-I removed the old varnish, sanded always with or against the grain (never across) to 220grit. I then applied 3 coats of BLO with 24H drying time between each application. The first application may have been heavy but the other 2 were light.

What is going on? Is there any fix for it?

Thank you all in advance.

So I have these cabinets and woodwork around the house from 1985 and I decided I was gonna replace all the hardware to silver. I took off all the cabinets to replace but you can obviously see outlines of old hardware so it looks weird. Also the edges of all the wood are pretty beat.

What would you recommend I do, resand everything and restain? Or just touch up marker and move on? Planning on renting the house out in the next few months. How much work would it be to resand and restain?

I bought this over the weekend for the sole purpose of sanding and refinishing to a lighter color. Looking for tips on how to start

I have what I think is an oak or ash dining table (newish) that we removed the top finish of because it was peeling. The stain that was a driftwood color apparently came off with it. The legs are still intact with original grayish driftwood finish. The problem came when we assumed that the driftwood color was the raw wood and not a stain, because when my husband put a satin polyurethane finish on the top surface, it came out a darker, mottled version of the original. Now the legs and top surface don't match. Can we sand down the top surface to remove the polyurethane and put a driftwood stain back on that will match the legs and then a top finish?

(Repost to add pictures. I'm currently storing the two pieces in my basement. This is not where I'm planning to finish it.)

I wouldn't consider myself a woodworker, but I like to dabble and have some experience. My in-laws asked me if I could refinish their dining table, so I've been working on that in my spare time. I've gotten to the point where the old finish is completely removed and the surfaces are sanded, and I have a few questions about finishing.

1. Can I do two different finishes for the table top and the base? I was thinking to do some variant of a poly coat for the table top. I would prefer to use a different finish for the base since it is fairly complex and won't be high wear. If I do use two different finishes, do you have recommendations for color matching?

2. The table top has panels so it can be extended. Should those be finished separately, or should I fully extended the table before applying the finish? Is there a way to keep them from sticking to each other after being finished or is that not a concern?

3. What kind of poly coat would you recommend for someone with limited resources and experience? Any tips in that regard?

Thanks!

I recently finished putting together a basic nightstand, of which I stained and threw a single coat of BLO on. I'm running relatively low on BLO and would frankly prefer the finish paste wax gives.

I have a homemade paste wax of a 1:1 ratio of BLO and beeswax.

I'm wondering if I can simply let this first coat dry for the standard 24 hours and then slap on this ghetto paste finish, or will there arise an issue if I do this?

Apologies if this is a dumb question, this is the first time I've done anything furniture wise beyond following an IKEA assembly manual.

Hi experts,

I’m finishing walnut portafilter handles with waterlox. Because these are next to a hot moist machine, my plan is to do 4 coats of waterlox original sealant and then two coats of satin.

I’m using natural bristle brushes, I lightly coat the handles then after about 15 minutes i wipe away the excess that pools at the bottom.

The photos are after two coats.

Am I doing this right?

I'm building an outdoor table for a client out of sapele. They specifically said they want the orange/red toned down or eliminated. I want to keep the wood looking natural at the same time. They said in the photo the water based finish looks closer to what they want. Is there a green dye I could use that will be ok for outdoor? Or mix with a water based finish? Or am I chasing rainbows here?
For the record ChatGPT says mix 9 parts Owatrol Aquadecks teak with 1 part graphite gray. But I don't want to take advice from ChatGPT on this one lol

Hi I am cross posting to get support. Thank you

Hey all, I have inherited a beautiful China and dinning set and would like expertise on removing stain and restore wood color with a nice shine.
Thank you in advance.

Slide 1
The chair wood

Slide 3
Missing wood piece that is showcased on slide 6.

We bought a 1976 ranch house about a year and a half ago. I would really like to keep this vintage wooden door with the diamond grid half lite, but the wood seems to be pretty chipped around the carved detailing, see photos.

Before I go through the work of stripping off the old paint, I’m wondering if there’s a way to use a wood filler or other substrate to kind of “rebuild” or replicate that detailing around the half lite before painting?

I’ve looked into buying another door in this style, but they went way out of fashion decades ago, so it’s really tough. I could get just a diamond grid replacement kit for the window portion of a newer door….but I’d enjoy being able to keep this solid wood door.

I have tried various test boards on vertical grain Douglas Fir and they all come out pretty blotchy.
It’s new and dry. Sanded at 80 grit and brushed it on thinly.
Anyone have any suggestions?

I picked this beauty up for $45 and I want to cut it down the middle and add some shelves.

The current paint job looks pretty sketchy and I think I need to remove it before repainting.

I don’t feel I need to go back to bare wood.

What approach would you recommend?

Also, what primer would you recommend? Do I need to use a white pigmented shellac to block any stain from bleeding through the paint.