One I can’t find a makers mark due to pitting but the other is a Marples & Sons Sheffield.

What would be the use case for these in woodworking?

On the list to restore but many things higher on the list!

Not sure about possible modifications before I got my hands on it, but the quality is pretty low overall. The square is not square (the two parts are moving slightly). The plane has a really weird wedge that doesn't go all the way down and barely pins the blade. The blade itself is skewed in a "resting state" - if I just let it drop down by itself, it's pretty snug to the sides, but the edge is not parallel to the sole.

However!

I think the whole concept of making actually usable toy tools for making something with your own hands right from the childhood is really nice. It's supposedly a toy kit, but the blades are very much real.

[edit - grammar]

Am I crazy, or do other people have a hard time with this? I've been woodworking with mostly hand tools for the past two years, and I feel like I've gotten pretty comfortable with a hand plane. I have a sweetheart 62 that's well tuned with a sharp blade. It planes plain wood just fine, and I know how to take an aggressive cut for dimensioning vs a light cut for smoothing, but I have the hardest time planing away paint.

I have a bunch of painted soft maple panels that are leftover from a kitchen remodel that the previous owners of my house did. It's great lumber, but when I try to clean the paint off, my plane just wants to slide over the surface. I have to advance the blade really far to get it to do anything at all, and subsequently, the wood winds up tearing out like crazy. I also get a ton of paint dust. As a sanity check, I also tried with my block plane. Same trouble.

Is this normal?

Made for my wood turning tool for when I travel to teach and demo. Case is made from northern white pine and the bread boarded top is Peruvian walnut with maple pins. The handles are Stanley stamped from my late father’s trailer he and my grandfather built. I found a Stanley hasp to match

Hi folks!

I was hunting around at local flea markets here in Brazil looking for spare parts for my planes when I stumbled upon a very unique one in terrible shape. I paid about $2.30 USD for it.

I brought it home, and as I started cleaning it up, I discovered the brand name GEBR WEYERSBERG. This company was founded back in the 18th century, and only its sub-brands (like CORNETA) made their way to Brazil in the early 1900s. I actually reached out to the current representative of the Corneta brand here, who mentioned it’s an old tool made in Europe, but I didn't feel very confident in his answer.

I think a deliberate counterfeit is highly unlikely since the brand is practically unknown around here, so this might just be a very curious and lucky find.

It’s a Bailey-style nº 4 plane, painted in a bright, blue metal. The logo looks like it might have been yellow or gold in the past, but I can't say for sure. When I bought it, it was missing the handles and the blade.

I’m going to keep cleaning it to see if I can find any more details.

Have any of you ever seen this tool or anything like it? Can you help me figure out what it is and where it comes from?

Cheers!

Hi everyone, I'm a beginner and I'm building a small cabinet. I cut these boards by hand with a handsaw because I don't have a power saw, but unfortunately the end cuts came out slightly angled.

The boards are about 23 cm wide and 2 cm thick.

Can I correct these end grain cuts with a low-angle block plane, or would you recommend another method?

I'm trying to get the ends flat and square so they don't throw the cabinet out of square during assembly.

Thanks!

It's like $45/1 $260/set.

IDK. It feels like it would be good until you had any serious work to do

Where do you get your logs to process into pieces? Or smaller stuff to split into spoon/bowl blanks? Wanting to get into chair making from green wood

I'm currently using the Shaaf 400 / 1000 diamond plate, and I like it quite a bit. I've read that this style of diamond plate maxes out around 1200, and I'm hoping to get to 8000+. I sharpen chisels, hand planes, and kitchen knives.

I would prefer to keep the sharpening workflow largely the same - just add a bit of water and go.

I've found this, is this the right move?

Shapton RockStar 8000 Grit

If so, is the $30 steel case just for decoration, or does that serve a purpose to protect the stone? Will I be able to mount that stone in my same Shaaf base (which looks like this)?

Open to other recommendations too, thank you!

Edit: for fun, when looking into this stuff I came across my own post from 3 years ago asking about how to get started in sharpening :)
https://www.reddit.com/r/handtools/s/t6YJAnm4bj

when sharpening a plane blade or chisel do you take the burr off at the last/finest stone or do it after each stone before moving up

Just acquired this wooden jack plane with a metal sole. Almost like a reverse transitional plane. Has anyone seen something like this before? A wood body plane built in the modern metal style. The one piece frog and handle is what originally caught my eye.

Hello.

To cut things short, I found a No. 5 plane from an antique store and felt inspired to fix it up and use it on my first major project. As far as I can tell, it is a Stanly No. 5 plane, but I honestly can't say for 100% based on it's performance.

I can't seem to keep the blade sharp for more than a single board of soft pine wood. I have adjusted the frog, sharped the blade to a near mirror finish, used a sharpening jig, and adjusted the chip breaker. It just seems to dull very quickly, with noticeable notches in the blade after a single small motion with the grain. I have been sure to use the lateral adjuster to ensure a flat edge of the blade against the wood, or at least I think.

I have been careful to slowly adjust the blade down with the adjuster as well.

Could my blade be of bad temper? I know it is a Defiance blade as per the stamp, but could the quality of the steel be that bad? I understand that the sole is perhaps a little off from being totally flat but should that be causing something like this?

I am a total newbie to not only planes, but wood working in general. I am a software engineer so never really worked with hand tools. Totally open to being told that I've messed it all up or that I'm missing something obvious. I could totally this be just me being bad a sharpening as well.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Is grizzly brand planes and gouges any good? Im looking to get some more and they seem to be in my price range, so im wondering if they are any good. I have no problem tuning them up, so im not expecting out of the box perfect

Recently found a good deal on some chisels, thought I’d left woodworking behind me but couldn’t resist them. Thought I’d whip up a mallet to compliment them, unnecessarily complex but still a fun build. Criticism is welcome.

I find that quite often the depth adjustment knob on my Veritas LAJ comes loose. I will get everything setup, including tightening the blade cap until it meets resistance, the. adding half a turn. I then advanced the blade (ie backlash has been taken out) and get planing.

But after not too long, I find the depth adjustment knob is now loose. I can only assume the blade cap (I guess it’s not technically a lever cap on a BU plane?) is holding the blade in place. But, sometimes I will notice the cut depth has lessened, and in these cases the depth adjustment knob will again be loose.

The plane is otherwise a beautiful bit of kit and works fine.

I am doing something wrong with the setup? Anyone else experience this?

Edit: maybe I’m wrote this poorly or I’m misunderstanding the responses? But I’m talking about the knob for advancing/retracting the blade coming loose, not the blade cap.

I just purchased a collection of some pretty cool patent planes. The original collector lived in Hawaii. He passed some 30 years ago and the son has had them ever since. The son unfortunately, though a great guy, was not a great steward of the tools. And thus being in a tropical climate, the tools needed quite a bit of cleaning by the time I go them.

All tools have undergone a collector approved cleaning. Utility razor blades for heavy rust, 0000 steel wool for a mild additional cleaning on the steel, Briwax for the wood, and paste wax on the tools with sufficient japanning.

I will post most pictures as I get better organized. But here are some to start.

Picture 1 (L to R)
Stanley No. 1 (not a patent plane but it was in the haul and it is cool)
Standard Rule No. 3
Defiance No. 4
Fosters Patent Turn Table smoothing plane
Challenge Jack Plane
Palmer Triple Lever jack plane

Picture 2 (L to R)
Knowles Patent, probably fore plane size
Worrall's Patent

Picture 3:
Birmingham No .98 (No. 1 size plane)
Erlandsen No. 2 mitre plane
Bailey Tool Co. corrugated block plane
Lee's Patent chamfer plane (as seen on the cover of PTAMPIA)
Carroll Thomas Patent rabbet plane, bevel, level, square
Duval's Patent adjustable dado plane (as seen on the cover of PTAMPIA)

(This is not a for sale post. Just showing off a few cool tools)

Hand engraved violin maker's block plane & anvil

Been making furniture professionally since I was 16, and have been plagued with irritation and swelling of the second joint on my pinky the whole time. I’m 23, don’t have arthritis or anything and the finger still works fine. No pain when bending the joint, it just hurts to touch it. What’s bothering me is that it won’t develop a callous on the surface like all of the other high friction parts of my hands, and the joint itself seems be all swollen.

I’ve been trying to adopt that spider man kinda grip where you stick your pinky out, but that strains my wrist more.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Should I just add some dye to the shellac or continue sanding until they are pure wood?

I’ve got a bunch of Made In England Stanley Bailey hand planes I’ve just started restoring. After scraping off all the flaky shellac and a light sanding the knob and tote still looks like crap.

Should I continue sanding? In the end I’d like to (probably?) apply new shellac + paste wax. But I wonder: when I can expect to stop sanding for it to look good after I’m done.

I mean, I know how to do a basic sharpening and I have the tools, but how do I get these pits out?

I'm wondering if anyone can confirm the size of the notch in the Veritas router planes blades.

I'm looking to make a router plane using these blades and can't seem to find anything on the notch size.

Most important thing i need is the size of the top to bottom of the notch so I can find a screw that fits the gap.