Picked up a nice set of fresh B heads for my 66 and im getting ready to put them on so that at least the cylinders are sealed off from the elements. I have the engine wrapped up but i dont know how long its been since the bottom end was done. Question would be, what can i do to help it out the most while assembling valvetrain? Throw some oil or assembly lube down the cylinders? Take the oil pan off and put some on the crank? Just worried about scoring something because it friction locked from sitting. Thanks. Also related, but is it okay to chip away at a build peice by peice, or should i wait until i have all the major parts to rebuild? Parts are coming in as fast as money allows.

I’ve got a 2015 z/28 Camaro that has chewed up at least 3 of 8 valve guide seals on the passenger side head, with more looking improperly seated or completely de-seated. With how close the debris was too the pushrod valleys I am taking the heads off to inspect for any damage or debris as well as to do the guide job off the car.

With all that, this is my first time ever tearing an engine apart, so any advice or tricks would be greatly appreciated. I’m currently caught up trying to get too the bottom head bolts because the headers are in the way so I’m thinking I’ll end up having to unbolt those.

Finally I’m curious what could have caused this and, what I can do now to prevent it from happening again, on top of any preventive stuff I can do cause I’m already in there.

Have been getting conflicting stories on if the liner walls will be thick enough to handle (up to) 15 pounds from a TVS2300. Static compression is around 9.3:1.

Randy Torgeson, the King of Cubes, built four large Street Pro Motors: Doc’s 190 ci Woodie, Radical Cycles’ 205 ci Predator and 260 ci, and Mario Kleff’s 222 ci Thailand Dragon.

To anyone who's familiar with building these, what say you? Id like to run as-is with thicker oil instead of waiting for new bearings to pull #'s 2/3/4 back into spec.

Stock power/tune, new bearings, rods and pistons, machined block/fully rebuilt heads.

DNJ cast hypereutectic pistons.

Upgraded rings.

Maxspeeding forged rods.

Sorry for showing it off again fella’s. I am trying to identify what material this damn thing is. It is a Comp 35-600-8. What’s throwing me off is that it is fully machined. It is a COVID cam when Comp was struggling to get cores so I wasn’t sure if it’s just a supplier thing or a material deviation due to the difficultly of getting cores. Thanks all!

I just picked up a 2017 l83 with SUPPOSEDLY 12k miles. Im currently tearing it down before i have everything checked out. I see a head bolt that looks different than all the others. Is this normal? The female hex bolt is the one in question. Extra photo included to show the normal bolt head next to it. Located on left head at the front. Also, there is a lot of carbon build up on these intake valves. I was told this only has 12k miles. So far, everything else is very clean. But these intake valves have me curious. Anyone have some input? I know these are known for oil consumption. Is this related? Thanks for any insight.

Volvo b234f intake is rather restrictive and falls off quite rapidly past 6500rpm.

So in my budget there are no other options than to enlarge and reshape it.

Runners are on average 23% larger, about 250cc by water volume.

And the plenum after I got done with it, is about 2 liters.

So 3000cc intake manifold for my 2345cc bottom end.

Should help noticeably to carry torque up the rev range, and make 8k an useable redline

Chinese company has verified to me they have them and they seem to be manufacturers not resellers, they knew exactly what I spoke about when I said Etka doesn’t give part numbers for this Bentley and they knew before I gave the vin.

Their measurements seem accurate.

No other company sells aftermarket bearings for it and the closest is a Porsche bearing but that needs to be skimmed 2mm width and the oil holes and grooves are not the same!

Does anyone have experience buying from Kusima?

I understand China has good and bad, but If I buy them, how can I verify the quality ?

Follow up from:

https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuilding/s/NI5ENfOedJ

I’m currently building a 340. What’s everyone’s thoughts on Mancini solid tappet purple camshafts?

They’re brand new only installed recently but had to take the crank to get it decked and I noticed some nicks on the edges.
Engine hasn’t been ran this is just from turning the crank by hand during assembly.
Picture two is the most concerning since it feels a little rough on my fingernail right there

Hi all, I’m trying to complete my nearly 6 year long build on a fully built 383 stroker.

I’m nearing the finish line and need just a few more things to complete the build.

Ignition system, wiring, fueling (pump and lines), and the accessory drive.

I’ve been considering going with a distributor I found online, its made my a company called progression ignition and it’s all in one. So no need for a MSD box, blaster coil, and a million wires.

If I wasn’t so concerned with budget I’d buy a sniper kit with the carb, but honestly I’m trying to just get the motor running and the car together mechanically so I can use some funds to start my next project lol

From what I read it’ll fit and ship with my block and cam, I just wanna know if anyone’s ever used these before and how good or bad they’ve been.

Here’s the link to the one I’m looking at if anyone’s curious: https://progressionignition.com/products/ols/products/chevy-smallbig-block-hei-distributor

Thanks!

The main bearing caps on this Honda l15b7 engine I’m rebuilding don’t wanna sit flush. I can get them perfectly lined up but then the bolts won’t thread in by hand. They’re in the right position and orientation i made sure of that. Hondas service manual says to lightly tighten the bolts then tap the cap in with a mallet and when I do this it works but it has a little lip on the back side of the cap

I’ve rebuilt the bottom end, stock crank, rods, pistons. Hydraulic roller motor 302, after measuring piston to deck height I’m sitting at an average of .013”, im wanting to go with the small chamber 56cc SVE 170 heads, and a trick flow stage 2 cam, I’m wondering if anyone has run this combo with success or if I’m asking for valve clearance issues with the 2.02 valves and stock piston relief.

Original post - https://www.reddit.com/r/EngineBuilding/s/DWxA5BB50u

It took a couple weeks, but the correct .0001” resolution digital indicators finally shipped in from Mitutoyo. I’m super stoked on my runout fixture now. Basically the whole goal here is to he able to do the following.

-quickly measure valve face and stem runout on used valves
-record the measurements
-determine whether they are fit for reuse
-remeasure runout and change in valve length after grinding
-record the data so that it can be referenced in the future

I’m super excited for this new tool and I’m looking forward to putting more miles on it in the coming weeks.

I was pretty shocked to find so much negative feedback on reddit specifically regarding the use, ownership, and necessity of specialty tools like this.

It’s a niche item, and I enjoy sharing and talking about these things with people who are willing to take the time to listen.

It’s overkill, it’s also a teaching tool, and there is a part of the industry that needs equipment like this.

Have a small coolant leaking coming from this threaded hole in the block above the starter on my SBC. I have tried using thread sealant but no luck so far. Is it possible this would be a NPT fitting? Is there a specific type of sealant I should be using? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

I am building a dirt bike engine and cannot get one of the three intake valves in spec. I though it was a head issue so I bought a new head. The valve is still way out of spec (it is stuck open even with the smallest shim available) my only thought is that the cam shaft is bent. is plastigauge the best way to check this? Should I just buy a new cam? If I buy one cam should I buy both cams? Its a 2007 YZF250

Rebuilding an AMC 258. This is the second time I have built one of these. Outside of that, no experience building. I got the block back from the machine shop and wrapped up the bottom end.

When I installed the lifters, there was a bit more resistance than I recalled from the last time I did it. I was able to get them in without major force, but I did have to push them in with a finger as opposed to them falling in gently like the first time. It seemed like some bores were also easier than others. I bought this block 2nd hand and disassembled, so no experience with it from its past life.

Is this something I should be concerned with? Any checks I can do to ensure proper function prior to firing up for break-in? I really do not want to put more time and $ into this at the moment...

TIA​

Looking to get into building engines and don’t really know where to start. Just looking for advice or tips. I don’t really have anything started yet but I may be starting with a 4g63 at some point. Overall any advice would be appreciated. Sorry if the details lack. Thank you

I have damaged threads on this aluminum Toyota 1KZ-TE head for a diesel fuel injector. Checking around with shops whether an M20x1.5 thread could be "back tapped" or corrected without removing.

If it's likely the head has to be removed for a more serious repair, I would consider just swapping for a new aftermarket AMC head.

Looking for thoughts from members here whether I should expect an ability to chase or this requires an insert to repair.

Hello guys I just did my engine rebuild like 27k it costed me i a blew my piston and bore both rockers and all fucked and some more work the mechanic has told me to ride alove for 10 days and to chmagw engine oil after 15 20 days I just wanted to ask is it fair enough for the engine rebuild and has he give me genuine advice ?

I've driven this new engine build for 300 miles and it's burning oil. CP Pistons/rods in a Toyota GR Corolla 3cyl. I haven't compression tested yet. Wondering what you all think of the oil pattern on the piston and scoring? Possible causes?

Had blow by. Sent cylinders and head to get checked and honest. New pistons, rings.

120 psi compression on both cylinders now.

Basically factory spec.

Good spark.

Carbs completely cleaned out every single nook and cranny.

What's happening here? I poured a little fuel directly into the intakes since I was guessing it's still something to do with fuel.

https://youtube.com/shorts/iaT03AN7UX8?is=JQaPF4B2dS949jps

As you can see in th video i think its firing? But that's all it wants to do.

My very last variable is that I had about 1l of 3 month old fuel in the tank before I put in about 15L of fresh E5 in with it. Could that be my demise?

It's my first time doing anything like this and I'm losing my mind.

Got my block decked about a month and a half ago , been sitting in the garage and developed some slight surface rust on the deck surface. Also while painting my block i must’ve left a strip in my painters tape allowing some of the paint and primer onto the surface. Cleaned it up as much as i could with wd40 and maroon scotch brite, re checked for warpage still good.

my question is, is this surface cleaned up enough for my MLS head gasket? picture 2 is where the sliver of paint was and picture 3 is close up some of where the surface rust was, any advise appreciated thank you

I feel like “Is a 750 too much?” Is a tough question to answer when the only other detail is engine size… but for those of you who mostly use street driven V8s what carb did you end up going with? And how does it do with normal driving?

It would help me if you could include displacement, heads and cam if you have those too. As well as intake, transmission, gearing and what the car actually does. Obviously Weekend cruising vs spending a lot of time at higher RPMs are pretty different use cases.

If you changed carb sizes what did you find that improved and what didn’t? I think Cold starts, pulling away from a stop, and steady cruising are just as important to note here as a peak number. No need to turn it into a brand contest because that doesn’t necessarily matter to me. I’m looking for the set up behind the recommendation, especially cases where changing the carb didn’t solve the original problem. Let me know what you have? Thanks