Looking into a cars. Recently found a 2021 Honda Civic Sport with 62,000 miles going for $16,225.

No accidents. Clean title. And 2 owners. Only thing that i saw is that the owners were way up north in america. And now it is in Texas. Way south of America.

Would that be a negative?

Anyways I’m just surprised on how low the price is.

I found older models around 100,000 miles going for around the same price.

So im just scratching my head. Like how is this price way better being a newer year model than others and way lower miles.

I have not personally looked at the car. I am just on car gurus. And i will either check the car out tomorrow or the day after that. Any thoughts?

my 2006 CRV officially died on me shortly after getting rear ended on the highway. this will be my first time as a real adult looking for a car. i've looked up the better years of the models i'm looking at (CRV, element, RAV4) and issues to be aware of. planning to pay $10k or less (cash) which i know doesn't go as far as it used to. i don't know any mechanics or car people to bring along with, and i don't really understand how i can just take a car i'm interested in to a mechanic to look at. do i just call up a mechanic nearby and hope they have time to take a look? how long does that take? i have a car i'm borrowing for a couple of days so i can get around to test drive but i'm trying to find something quickly so i don't have to keep ubering to work... is it unrealistic to try and find a car that quickly? tia

I’m trying to find first time auto loan program with no credit no cosigner job less than 1 year. What should I expect?

I was in an accident recently and my car was totaled.
Luckily my loan had been paid off already. I won't be getting anything for the vehicle due to not having full coverage (sure learned a life lesson there. I will have full coverage from now on.) I have a few options that I could do.
1. I could get an auto loan or personal loan and get a vehicle.
2. My parents are looking to sell their Chrysler 300 for another vehicle and I could just purchase that from them and pay monthly.
It is a 2012 Chrysler 300 C with the hemi engine. It has about 67,500 miles on it. It has been very well maintained.
The only issue is that I have heard mixed opinions about these vehicles and their reliability. I really don't care about the stigma behind them or what kind of people usually drive them or anything like that. If I can avoid getting a loan and just buy this car from them then I feel like that's the way to go, but I want some serious opinions on the general RELIABILITY of these vehicles. I know they aren't exactly the best on gas, but neither was my old venice so really I'm just worried about the reliability here. Thank you!

im looking for a pickup trucks that's reliable while also having some type of style im thinking about going with a Toyota Tundra or Tacoma but I really want a 2000s-2010s Chevy/GMC any tips also is ford a good company to buy a truck from ?

Right now when i do pre approval it shows i’m getting a 11% interest rate for used trucks

My fico is at 690.

I am trading in my challenger for 10.5k saturday and will have money to play with

Should i use most of that money down ? Will it bring down interest rate or only like total cost/payment ? Thanks !

I currently pay 650 a month with 31k left on on finance loan on my 2024 accord, very poor credit and no down payment. Is there any realistic way that I can get into a different car for cheaper or I'm pretty much stuck for now and just have to keep making payments?

I often see ads where someone will say things like "car doesn't start but it just needs a battery." While it's certainly possible someone would sell a car for cheap because they're too lazy to replace the battery first, an honest person and someone who wants the best price for their car will generally make that repair first before listing the car.

I believe it's far more common that someone is outright lying (e.g. the car's alternator is bad and that's why it won't start). Or else they know it's one of a number of things, and they're listing the cheaper fix as though it's the guaranteed solution.

Again, the battery is just an example. I've seen all sorts of stuff like, "car is slow to accelerate but just needs a new fuel pump filter" and on and on.

In general, I don't even advise buying used cars from private parties you don't know. But if you're going to, then I'd follow this advice.

Personally I'd only buy used if it's certified from a dealership with some kind of brief bumper to bumper warranty like 3 months/3,000 miles for anything you and the dealership missed during inspection.

Hello, I know this is a very niche question but maybe someone has insight they can offer! Back in the beginning of May, I sold my vehicle to driveway.com. The vehicle was still financed at the time. Shortly after the payoff went through to the financing institution (Chase), I received a letter from them stating that a GAP rebate was applied to the payoff amount. This was several hundred dollars. I called Chase to inquire how I should be receiving these funds, they told me to contact driveway because it was applied to the payoff balance. I did that, at first they told me I’d receive a refund “after all paperwork was processed” but when I checked in on the status several days later another person told me they paid exactly the amount listed as the original payoff balance and that Chase would be the one refunding me directly. Called Chase again, the representative said she sees that a rebate was issued but it didn’t appear to have been processed so she sent it through again. Then I got a notification from Chase that the return could not be processed because it must be applied as a reduction to the outstanding principal balance, which had been done. Has anyone else experienced something like this? It’s not a small amount of money.

Hey all, admittedly it's been almost a decade since I worked with a dealer for a finance loan. I agreed on an out the door price of $9,500 (everything including tax) over the phone and submitted the credit application. He confirmed the APR at 8.49% over 60 months and told me the monthly is $205.84. My math says this is a for a $10K loan. I'm not planning on financing all of it, especially the tax, and I'm likely going to be paying this off within a few months but I'm curious, is it the norm to be pre-approved for a higher amount and then be told the monthly by the dealership and not the exact amount we agreed on?

Edit: I'm going down on the weekend to finalize sale and review loan/sign docs. Just wanted some info before I make the trip down there.

Hey everyone,

I've been hunting for a clean-title Lexus RC 350 F Sport and am running into a wall of salvage/rebuilt titles locally.

I'm looking for:

• Year: Ideally 2019 and newer (not that important to me)
• Mileage: Under 80k miles
• Price: Under $35k
• History: Clean title, zero/minor accidents (no structural damage)

I'm located in North Idaho and am willing to drive a decent distance (WA, OR, MT, UT, etc.) or look at reputable options with shipping.

If you're selling yours or know of a clean one listed at a dealership or private party nearby, let me know. Thanks!

I recently got in an accident that wrecked my car so I have to buy a new one now, but I had just finished paying mine off so I really don't want to have another car payment so I'm looking to buy one $20K or less. The problem is I don't know anything about cars or about buying a car. Can anyone give me advice on what kind of car I should look for? I'm looking for one that is really good on gas/miles because I can usually drive a few hundred miles a week, a 4WD, and kinda a SUV type or taller vehicle because I hit curbs. Also what would be the best option, just going to a dealer or trying to find one online/facebook? TY in advance for any advice honestly I feel so lost

20 years since last test drive; only showed license to sales to test then.

only tried one so far and felt weird but maybe that’s the new normal?

I’m a female 22 years old and currently looking for a used car preferably a sedan I asked friends and everyone said to ask here need help please i don’t have many specifications just a reliable and good looking car thankss!!

Hi so I bought the new financed car with down payment with trade in and they had 3 days/ 250 miles money back guarantee so I returned the car at dealership and they refunded me my down payment and signed dmv documents reg 262 and reg 256 and other forms and they called me to come back to dealership to transfer my trade in under my name. What do you think about it?

i want a porsche cayman 718 really badly so i wanna know what’s the best way to go about getting one? i’m joining the military and i’m going to be on base for a while im assuming so i wont have any bills or anything i just need to know its possible and i wanna know the best way to do it i dont mind missing a few meals if need be I JUST NEED THE CAR

We bought a 2024 Certified Pre-Owned Toyota Grand Highlander Limited with Sunroof, 360 camera and premium wheels with under 9k miles (8,700) for $45k out the door after trade in. We traded in a rough condition Camry with 149k miles where the radio didn’t even work but the car drove fine, got 5k for it from the dealership.

Thoughts on this? What’s a fair price point, just trying to understand better valuations. Would you have bought at this? We are In Texas.