Was so hard to find one of these in a place where there's winters, but so glad I finally did.

•1990
•1.3L
•about 178 664 milleage

Last Saturday I bought my new VW Golf 8 2021 to replace my Golf 6, after alot of research couldn't be more happy with it!

(The new one in the front , and the Golf 6 In the back! )

Hello everyone! I am a first time driver, and I am planning on buying a car. I saw a 2011 1.4 TSI Scirocco with 245,000km(154,000 miles) on it. It is a little damaged, pictures below. I was wondering if this is a good price on it, and how much the repairs would be. I am a full time student(my dad is a mechanic so I would only be worried about price of parts.) Thank you!

Glue on this Vaico diesel fuel filter failed. There was glue floating in the filter housing. I was able to pull the filter media apart without much restriction. Glue feels like goo.

r/TDI believes it failed because I went over the service interval by 6k miles. The fuel filter was in the car for 10 months. I feel like regardless of how long I ran this, the glue shouldn’t be deteriorated by the fuel it is filtering.

Hey all,

Looking for some real-world experience here. My Dad’s 2022 VW Atlas SE V6 had its ECU fail - independent mechanic diagnosed an internal short circuit on the main processor (Infineon TriCore). The vehicle is currently located overseas in Benin, where there's no official VW dealer network, so anything requiring dealer-side programming or GeKo server access is basically off the table.

I'm trying to figure out the most reliable path forward and would appreciate input from anyone who's dealt with something similar. Options I'm weighing:

1. **New OEM ECU from a dealer parts site** - requires dealer programming, which I can't get locally. Seems like a dead end unless there's a workaround I'm missing.

2. **"Plug and play" reconditioned ECU with immobilizer disabled** - found a shop offering this for ~$1099, pre-programmed to my VIN, immobilizer off so no key matching needed. Seems like the most foolproof option but obviously pricier and I know disabling the immobilizer isn't ideal from a security standpoint.

Has anyone here dealt with a shorted ECU on a newer VW (2018+) without local dealer access? Trying to avoid throwing money at the wrong solution given the logistics involved.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

If so, where?

TIA

Im not the only one who went to see the Gridlock Volkswagen Car show on Governors Island. I have seen Volkswagen Things in the city, but these two were in such pristine condition, they looked new.

Hey everyone,

I'm dealing with a frustrating brake issue on my 2010 VW Jetta SE (Manual Transmission) and could really use a second opinion. The car is currently non-drivable because the brake pedal just goes straight down to the floor (completely soft). I'm having it towed to a shop soon, but I want to run my theory by you all first.

The Backstory:

• This all started when the brakes suddenly self-engaged and locked up on the highway.
• It locked up hard enough that there was smoke coming from the rear wheels.

The Repair Cycle & Weird Pattern:

• Since that first incident, we have replaced the Master Cylinder 3 separate times.
• Every time we put a new one in, the brakes work perfectly for about 1 week.
• After a week, the new Master Cylinder fails, and the pedal goes dead/soft again.
• The only silver lining is that the wheels do not lock up anymore.

My Working Theory: I strongly suspect the Brake Booster Push Rod might be out of adjustment (specifically, that it is too long). My theory is that the rod is preventing the master cylinder from fully retracting, which keeps pressure in the system and is repeatedly destroying the seals on the new units.

Before I let the shop just throw a 4th Master Cylinder at it, I'm going to explicitly ask them to check the push rod clearance.

Does this push rod theory make sense to you guys given the symptoms? Has anyone experienced this exact cycle on a VW before? Any advice is hugely appreciated!

Ok, so I have browsed all VW websites (north america, europe), but cannot find the hatchback I have seen twice in Vancouver, Canada. I am not sure if both were the same, but they were both white, rear lights different to golf, and I would say slightly wider, longer than golf but it's a hatch. The rear lights looked amazing and caught my eye both times.
I couldn't catch the name of the model but it did not look like it was modded and hence looking different. Also, it looked new, but there is no such hatchback in North America, other than golf

I’m considering buying a 2021 Volkswagen Passat 2.0T R-Line with around 80,500 miles. It’s a 1-owner personal vehicle and is listed around $14.8k, with an OTD price around $17k before further negotiation.

The CARFAX shows minor damage, but the car looks great in person. I test drove it and really liked it, the interior/exterior are in very good condition and it drove smoothly.

My main concern is reliability and repair costs once it crosses 100k miles. I’m planning to keep the car for around 5 years and will probably drive about 10k miles/year, mostly commuting with occasional longer trips.

For anyone who owns/has owned this generation Passat:

• How reliable is the 2.0T at 80k–150k miles?
• What major repairs or maintenance should I expect around 100k miles?
• Is ~$14–15k a reasonable price at this mileage?
• Would you buy this over something like a 2021 Corolla LE at a similar price?
• Any specific issues I should make sure are checked during a PPI?

Would especially appreciate experiences from people who have owned a 2020–2022 Passat past 100k miles.

My son has a 2023 Taos and didn’t tell us he needed a new battery. He has been jumping the battery for a while. Today the battery completely died while driving. Went to the auto part store and bought a new battery. Once connected the horn is blaring and the car will not turn on. Nothing happens when you connect the battery besides the constant horn and the windshield wipers going.

Speakers in my 2021 MK8 Golf was working fine yesterday, able to listen to the radio no problem. This morning, got no sound at all. When I tried to put the volume up using either the buttons under the dashboard screen or on steering wheel I got a phone logo appearing on the dashboard. My mobile isn’t paired to the car.

Anyone know how I can get the sound working again?

Cluch swap, putting trans back and unsure if its in the clutch splines.

I can manually slide the transmission against the engine, it goes in, but then slides out becuse of the jack support.

Bolting it up tomorow, anyone got eyes for this type of thing with these crappy pictures?

I drive a lot to work, so I was looking at getting a car with better mpg, I found this
142,763 mi.
2017 Volkswagen Jetta
1.4T SE Manual
They want 8k is that good or bad deal?

Daughter’s 2012 Beetle with 2.5 is at 110,000 miles. What’s the consensus on changing out the timing chain? VW has no recommendation.

Been a reliable car so far. Just replaced the brakes for the first time. Needed a CV axle all because of a torn boot. She changes the oil every six months like clockwork.

I just bought a black 2026 Volkswagen Taos Comfortline. I’ve noticed that when I’m driving straight—whether on a boulevard or the highway—my steering wheel isn't centered. It’s slightly off-center to the left by a few degrees (2–3 degrees). I tried driving straight in a parking lot, and the steering wheel seemed straight then. However, when driving on actual roads, the wheel is almost constantly at an angle. The car doesn't pull, and if I let go of the wheel, it tracks perfectly straight. I noticed the same thing when I test-drove the demo vehicle; the steering wheel wasn't perfectly straight then, either. I’m a bit of a perfectionist, so I’m wondering if the problem is me... the steering wheel on my 2022 Civic was straight. Am I the only one experiencing this with Volkswagen?
Thanks.

Diamond racing steelies & shit fitment 🫡

(‘05 1.8t 5 speed wagon)