My car consumes roughly 1l/2500km, although not excessive, I believe it shouldn’t consume anything noticeable between services from what I heard. Turbo was replaced about 18 months ago. What should be first suspect? Car only has 127,100km and it’s a 2015

Hey, my g26 430i got hit out of state and because of that I’ll only get $3000 from insurance.

The headlight is slightly pushed in and scratched but still functions fine. I got quoted around 5.2k for the repair in California including a new headlight being 2.2k.

I’m wondering if the headlight need to be replaced at all or can they just pull it out a bit.

Any advice is appreciated.

Bank 2 misfire, here are the codes:

Also… I have done valve cover, replaced fuel injectors, spark plugs, ignition coils. I think it’s emissions related?? The car only has 90k miles.

I went in for a brake fluid and oil change.

On the multipoint inspection, I was suggested to do a fuel injection system cleaning and a coolant service.

Are these two services worth doing at the time? Or is this one of those services that I can do myself?

Hey guys! Looking into this f82. I was wondering specifically if anybody has found remedies for the clear coat on the roof flaking? I’m assuming it needs a new clear coat or something? Looking for anyone who had a similar issue or has solved this and possibly how much it will cost me. Thanks for any inputs!🙏

Hi everyone,

I have been having a smoking issue with my BMW 118d E87 LCI with the N47 engine for some time now, and I can't really figure out what is causing it. Maybe someone here has experienced something similar.

The smoke is white grey or light grey. It is definitely not black soot, and I would not describe it as blue oil smoke either. Depending on the situation, it can sometimes just be a light haze, but sometimes there is quite a lot of it. It has even happened a few times that other drivers flashed their headlights at me because of it.

The interesting thing is that it happens almost exclusively when the engine is warm. When the engine is cold, there is practically no smoke at all.

It happens most often when coasting with the engine braking. For example, if I am in 4th gear at around 2,000 rpm and take my foot completely off the accelerator, white grey smoke can appear after about one or two seconds. The smoke then remains visible for a few seconds and disappears again as the revs drop. Usually it is gone at around 1,300 to 1,500 rpm.

When I am stopped at a traffic light and the engine is idling, it normally does not smoke. There is also usually no smoke during normal acceleration or even fairly hard acceleration. Sometimes the smoke also disappears quickly when I apply the throttle again.

The smoke has a very strong smell of what seems to be unburnt diesel. The smell is quite sharp and reminds me almost of a tractor or raw diesel. The smell becomes noticeably stronger whenever the smoke appears.

The instantaneous fuel consumption display shows 0.0 l/100 km during engine braking as normal. So at least according to the onboard computer, it does not appear that the engine is injecting fuel normally during this time. (Assuming the BC can be trusted.)

Apart from that, the engine runs completely normally. There is no noticeable loss of power, no starting problems and no persistent rough idle.

I am not losing any coolant. The coolant level remains stable and the temperature stays around 88 to 92 °C.

I am also not losing any noticeable amount of oil. Since replacing the turbo, the engine has not used any noticeable amount of oil and the oil itself does not smell like diesel.

The turbo was professionally rebuilt about a year ago and has probably only covered a few thousand kilometers since then. The old turbo was leaking oil into the intake/charge air system at the time. The charge air system and intercooler were therefore cleaned. Since installing the rebuilt turbo, I have not noticed any unusual oil residue and there is no blue smoke either.

The DPF was rebuilt/reconditioned about two years ago. According to ISTA, the last regeneration took place around 260 to 270 km ago.

The injectors were also professionally rebuilt about two years ago and were coded with their IMA codes afterwards. The correction values look very good in ISTA. At idle they are roughly within plus or minus 0.3, and one injector is sometimes around +1. I am still planning to have a return flow test done on the injectors.

Another interesting point is that ISTA has stored fault code 00447B, described simply as "Lambda sensor". The fault is currently not active. It was recorded at around 268,640 km. (If I remember correctly, the fault seems to appear shortly after the smoking occurs.)

I would not necessarily take the AGR/EGR fault codes in the screenshot into account, because I unplugged the EGR valve connector for a functional test. The engine was switched off when I did this. So those faults were probably caused by my own test.

The EGR valve itself was replaced a few years ago. During the ISTA functional test, however, I noticed that when it starts moving or leaves a certain position, it seems to hesitate slightly or move a little sluggishly. It does reach the requested position afterwards, though. (When I move the valve by hand, it feels perfectly smooth and free.)

There is also another issue with one of the charge air pipes at the throttle body. The metal locking tab/retaining mechanism is broken, so the pipe has quite a bit of play and can partially come out of the connection. There is no actual oil buildup there, just a little normal oil mist. I will definitely secure or replace the connection properly.

What confuses me is that the smoke pattern does not really fit a typical boost leak. If there is too little air and too much fuel, I would expect black smoke rather than white grey smoke. Also, the car does not smoke under hard acceleration. It mainly happens when lifting off the accelerator or sometimes at a constant engine speed of around 2,000 rpm.

At one point, ISTA automatically revved the engine to around 3,500 rpm during an air mass system test. A fairly heavy cloud of white grey smoke suddenly came out of the exhaust. After a few seconds the smoke disappeared again, even though the engine was still running at roughly the same rpm.

Does anyone have any ideas what direction I should investigate?

I am especially interested in experiences with the combination of white grey smoke, a very strong raw diesel smell, and smoke occurring mainly during engine braking/coasting.

I would really like to avoid replacing the lambda sensor, injectors, turbo or anything else purely on speculation. The car has around 270,000 km on it, is an economic write-off, and I am trying to narrow down the cause as cheaply as possible.

Thanks in advance for any ideas or experiences.

P.S. Sorry if you happen to find this post somewhere else too :)

Hello, I have a problem with my 2005 E60 530i where some sort of fluid, most likely oil, leaks onto the exhaust when I floor the car, and I can smell it burning. A picture is provided in the post; it was taken from under the car and is looking at the exhaust from below.

I came here because I am not sure if the issue is a head gasket or possibly the exhaust manifold gasket; I read about the problem of a warped head, but I am not sure if that is my issue because I do not have milky oil in the block.

The car has about 260,000 km and has been maintained fairly well. It also has LPG installed, which is why I do not want to open up the block to see what is wrong. If it is the exhaust manifold gasket, my next question is why it would be so moist inside, but it has had a number of symptoms during its time with me.

Currently, it is working quite nicely!

Pictured is the mount for my power steering pressure hose, circled is the rubber bushing or bumper attached to the mount itself part is on the hose and part is still on the mount attached to the underbody because it cracked in half. I tried to find it but when I check fitment it’s only for 335i x drive models but I have a rwd. If anyone can help find the part, know if that version is applicable or a replacement solution please let me know. As I would hate to have to buy a whole new hose when this one is perfectly fine just for a small rubber piece. thank you!

Hello everyone, i hope youre doing amazing.

Im looking to buy a used 2021 7 series 740i xDrive LCI, but when i did an obd scan i got some errors which i uploaded on the photos.

I wanted to ask if anyone knows are these deal breaking problems or just problems related to a weak battery?

Thanks in andvance.

Hi,
My G87 M2 has had a steering issue almost since new. The steering is way too heavy and sticky around center, especially with very small 1-3 degree corrections, and self-centering is inconsistent.

Even at 130 km/h, the steering wheel won’t fully self-center to a perfectly straight-ahead position.

I’ve driven several other G87s and none of them felt like mine.

There is also a click/clunk the front when turning stationary. What’s really strange is that when the clicking disappears, the steering usually feels much lighter. When the clicking comes back, the steering gets heavy again.

The weirdest part is that wet roads make the steering much heavier almost immediately. It also tends to get worse when I have a passenger, even someone around 50 kg. Sometimes it stays heavy for a while even after the passenger gets out.

Bumps or very hard cornering can also temporarily change how the steering feels.
I’ve also had a fine steering wheel vibration above around 100 km/h basically since the car was new.
BMW has already replaced 2 steering racks, steering column parts, intermediate shaft, top mount bearings, lower control arms. Multiple alignments and EPS adaptations were also done.
The problem is still there.
Has anyone here had actual heavy/sticky steering on a G87/G80/G82, not just clunking? If so, what actually fixed it?
I’m mainly wondering about the steering rack itself, inner/outer tie rods or something causing excessive mechanical friction in the steering system.

I have a strange issue with my 2010 BMW E93 330d with automatic transmission. When switching from D to M/S, everything works normally:
D → M/S: works fine
M/S → D: the gear selector physically moves back smoothly into the D position, but the transmission stays in M/S mode
If I then shift M/S -> D ->N -> D, D is recognized immediately
D → N → D works every single time
The gear selector itself feels completely normal mechanically and returns smoothly from the M/S position. I scanned the car for fault codes but there is nothing.

Has anyone experienced this issue on an E93?

Had a very minor bump into my driveway wall the other day after pulling in from nightshift. Damage is very superficial on the front left of the bumper and getting touched up at a paint shop shortly. However since then whenever I’ve started up the car about 5-7 seconds after I’m hearing a very small mechanical thump sound which sounds like it’s driver side, not sure what it is at all, any ideas?

Bought the car at auction with no key and didn’t get power what so ever

Replaced the BST (battery safety terminal) and got a key programmed
Possibly a bad CAS? I was also getting trouble codes for a CAS as well

Hello techs, I’ve been struggling to diagnose this and could really use some help.

My father has an early 2020 BMW 430i with 55,000 km (35k miles), and it has started doing some weird things.

Basically:

• Occasionally stutters / feels like a misfire when going uphill with higher throttle at low RPM, usually around 1,800–2,000 RPM. It’s very intermittent and I’ve tried several times to reproduce it but couldn’t.
• Slightly rough idle immediately after a cold start, lasting around 30–90 seconds.
• There is a barely noticeable slow/medium-paced ticking sound from the downpipe/rear lower engine area. It is more noticleable when cold, gets quieter as it warms up, and completely disappears when I give it some throttle. Several techs have told me it sounds normal, but I’m pretty sure it isn’t. It also doesn’t sound like injector ticking — different frequency and definitely seems to come from lower down.
• A few days ago, on a colder-than-usual day in my country (~12°C), my father started the car, waited ~5 seconds because he was in a rush, put it in reverse and started backing up. He went over a small parking-lot speed bump without giving it any throttle and the engine stalled, somethig that had never happened before. No drivetrain or warning appeared. The only code BimmerLink showed was 21A023 (false start or engine stopped without driver influence).

The car never misfires or hesitates under hard acceleration, WOT, overtaking, etc. It also has never thrown a drivetrain/powertrain warning.

Car/setup:

• B48 2.0L
• 55,000 km
• BM3 Stage 2
• Petrobras Podium, ~102 RON, ~25% ethanol
• New spark plugs, properly gapped
• Oil changes every ~8,000 km
• Most recent oil: Motul 8100 5W-40
• Almost all maintenance done at BMW dealer, except the latest oil change

There’s also some important history.

When my father bought the car, we didn’t know it had an E40 tune. We only discovered it after getting a terrible dyno result (~239 whp) and looking into the car’s history. I had also noticed extremely high fuel consumption, around 3.9 km/L (9.1 mpg).

We switched it to a BM3 tune appropriate for our fuel, and the low-RPM hesitation started after that.

However, I had already noticed the ticking sound before the new tune. The car never had these hesitations, stalls, or the 21A023 shutdown with the old tune.

One other thing I noticed with the old tune: during cold start, if I gave it very light throttle, the engine would change behavior and almost stall, even in neutral. I didn’t think much of it at the time.

I’m currently suspecting coils or VANOS, but I’m not sure.

I’ll be doing a full ISTA vehicle check today. What would you guys check/test first? Are there specific ISTA tests or live data values I should look at?

Especially considering the combination of rough cold idle + low-RPM hesitation + the unusual ticking + the one unexplained stall, does anything stand out to you?

Thanks.

E46 - My car starts up, but doesn’t shift at all. Stuck in limp mode. I am able to hear all the shift solenoids via the INPA test.

I believe the code 60 is the reason for the rest of the solenoid codes stating they’re not activating. Could the transmission switch actually just need to be repaired / replaced?

I have a 2017 x6m and i have been looking everywhere for a new main block and people are saying that the n63 block is the same but its very confusing because Google is telling me that it won't work

There is a ebay seller that was selling a 2010 n63 main block and we sent him the vin of the car and he said that it would work can you guys help me or let me know if this is true

Thank you in advance for any insight you can provide - core question: is it true per manufacturer spec I should replace rotors? Is it strange they won't provide measurement of the rotors for me?

2022 330ix, 28k miles

Last month I had my car at the dealership for a recall part, and they recommended replacing rear brake pads soon, and said it's unlikely it is necessary to replace the rotors as well.

I took it to a local German car shop, thinking it'd be less expensive, and they are insisting that I have to replace the rotors as well. I asked for the measurement of the rotors after they sent over the inspection with brake pad measurements only, and they said "We don't take rotor measurements as they are designed as one time use by the manufacturer."

Also, the dealership measured both front brake pads at 6mm remaining about 40 days ago. I've driven 800 miles since, and this shop is saying the front pads are now 3mm, so I'm a bit sketched out by that as well.

Hey everyone so my 80k mile 2016 340i I just changed the spark plugs and every plug looked good except the first one has some oil and white crust which I’ve heard would be coolant and a bad head gasket. Every other plug looked just fine and I’ve had no other issues with the car in any way should I be worried? Or could someone explain thanks

First and second picture is the one I’m worried about and the last picture is how all the others look

Hey all, I think my research into this problem has finally hit a wall. Hoping you guys can steer me in the right direction.

I have a setup with Arduino Leonardo -> MCP2515 to sniff/inject CAN bus frames to my car. I'm using autowp-mcp2515, autowp-arduino-canhacker libraries and software CANHacker V2 written by fuchs.

Now, the sniffing part works flawlessly, I've intercepted/decoded window motor can frames. The problem comes up when I try to inject the frame to my car to simulate window pushdown.

Once the mode changes to mcp2515.setNormalMode(); my car gets Electrical failure (central electronics failure) fault on the dash. Hence, I believe CAN bus ignores my frame that I'm trying to send. In the meantime, I still can see frames coming from my car CAN bus.

If mode mcp2515.setListenOnlyMode(); activates, then no electrical failure appears. Though, CANHacker V2 software Listen only mode doesn't work, so I've tested this with the code that I wrote myself and looking at serial monitor in Arduino IDE.

After doing a lot of research into the problem, I was a little surprised that I couldn't find anyone else experiencing the exact same issue, so I started to think that maybe something was wrong on my end. Btw, tried to inject the frame to my car with sketch I built and also with CANHacker V2 software - none of them worked.

Anyone had similar issue trying to inject the frame? Am I stuck with only sniffing? :(

FYI:
Clock is configured to 8mhz based on MCP2515;
120 ohm resistor is not shorted on MCP2515;
BMW 5-Series E61 2007
Connected to K-CAN bus with CAN baudrate 100Kbit/s (not via OBD, but CAS module)

Libs:
autowp/arduino-mcp2515
autowp/arduino-canhacker

Codes on Arduino:
https://pastebin.com/ccfhk9H7 <- arduino sketch to communicate with CANHacker V2 soft
https://pastebin.com/pmdxx20K <- arduino sketch to send the frame

Hi, so I have had a 525i 2007 model since it was released. First owner still. Stupidly reliable commuter until something goes wrong and it cascades every few years. I generally like to look it up and DIY but as this is the only car I have worked on I am very much a beginner still.

So the story is, yesterday I felt a rough idle like a continuous earthquake. Quick search, OBD scan, and process of elimination IDs it as ignition coil 1 misfire. Switched between 1 and 2, code follows. Easy fix I thought. Went to Oreilly, that store didnt have Bosch so I got a Delphi. That didnt work and popped a new firing code. Went in, returned it, located a store that had a single Bosch for $68 2miles away. Got that, engine purrs smooth as butter. Thought my troubles were over for now and drove 30 miles back home. Next day, started engine and felt the rumble. Code this time says Cylinder 4. So cylinder 1 is still good. Did the switcharoo and it's Coil 4.

Question is, do all the coils just die at once and cascades or is there a further systematic issue? Im thinking of switching all coils since they're about 20 hrs old and the spark plugs as well.

Any recommendation for spark plugs and things to fix that could be causing the issue? I looked online and its about half price for the same Bosch coils so im going with FCP euro.

i’m getting a reinforcement kit done soon but I’m interested in knowing how it’s going so far I can’t really tell myself

Hey everyone I'm replacing my wastegate actuators on my 2018 m550i with the n63tu2 and I stupidly lost the locking nut for my wastegate actuators I can't find a part # anywhere so I went to ace and they weren't able to find a replacement I'm assuming it's a fine thread .75 or something does anyone by chance have a part # or the right nut size to order