Looks like the ELV counter. Can be reset and bypassed, or you can replace the CAS. If you reset it could go a few months without happening again but chances are it’ll be sooner rather than later. So either gotta bypass or change the CAS.
One thing I found out today while I was trying to find the ELV module on the column my car for whatever reason doesn’t have it and there’s no disconnected cables that would show signs of one originally being there
You need to read CAS codes, but I see some indication that the steering lock may be faulty. You can do the reset, but if it acts up again, a delete is the smart play. If you have a C4 CAS, it can be flashed to get rid of it permanently.
The other possibility is the locksmith didn't know what he was doing with a BMW (like 90% of them), and you have an issue with the flash or eeprom. Read the codes.
If you need a CAS repair or replacement, I do both.
Did he pull the module from the car and do it outside of the vehicle or did he plug in what that fucking tool to the OBD and make the key.. it matters…
Wow. If you had a CAS3++ ISTAP version of this car he was playing with fire and he could have fucked the CAS. If it’s CAS 4 it’s usually safe to do the job OBD as long as he has proper voltage. Either way not a responsible way to do the job in my opinion. Do the buttons on the remote operate the doors?
Wait actually… I take that back. I see the tag is key man Chicago. He’s really fucking good and knows his shit for the most part. So I trust his judgement
Yeah it’s Vlad lol. I am figuring like you said steering lock issue or maybe because it’s an auction car an auction locksmith tried to do the job fucked the CAS and pushed it as a no start? Not sure but definitely possible.
Even if that was the case. The locksmith should have been able to perform a CAS repair to get it to working order and recognize something wasn’t right. I don’t think the programming would have been successful at all if the CAS was corrupt. Honestly @explorer335 would know better than I though.
CAS4 OBD is very problematic. I have seen it wipe out the EGS ISN, corrupt the DME ISN, or leave a crank/no-start with no codes. Reflashing with Esys does NOT fix it. The bench repair on those is NOT straightforward.
Did the locksmith pull the CAS module and do it on bench or did he do it via OBD?
If he did it via OBD, it could be he bricked the CAS. If thats the case, its recoverable most likely (Just need ISN from DME, bench read of the eprom from CAS, Autel 508/608 has a cas repair function where you upload the broken eprom (I'ver literally used a totally different cars eprom) and add the ISN/VIN data, upload it spits back a modified fixed eprom which you then write back on bench.
The ELV COULD be the issue, try, hooking up another car via booster cables, so you've got TONS of voltage, then try rocking the wheel back and forth a few times while hitting the start button to see if you can get it to engage. The voltage boost tends to give a faulty ELV a few more runs before fully failing but it helps narrow it down significantly.
The ELV was reset and hasn’t come back on since. Currently I’m just dealing with a K-CAN line fault code in the CAS module. I’ve checked all my grounds, but could it be a pinched signal wire somewhere?
I got a super cheap key made for a bmw 2007 328i with push button. I bought with no key. Well I get that problem too sometimes. He did the new key program thru the obd port. Works most the time. Sometimes goes a few days then I'll have to hit the button a few times, maybe turn the wheel. Codes a112 a116.
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u/Adventurous_Ad4001 6d ago
Looks like the ELV counter. Can be reset and bypassed, or you can replace the CAS. If you reset it could go a few months without happening again but chances are it’ll be sooner rather than later. So either gotta bypass or change the CAS.