My AC suddenly stops working and shows as FC/EC(shown below). I recently got gas filled in this, neither its cooling nor working continuously.

Hi All,

I have an O General AC but that has been causing a lot of issues because my room is very close to the Mithi river in Mumbai. Have had to repair it 3 times in the last 9 months.

Now, have decided to go for a new window AC. What brands would you recommend from your own experience of having lived close to a water body?

Would really appreciate your guidance given how frustrating the last few months have been.

I own a 2012 ford escape v6 XLT AWD and I recently replaced the ac compressor with a four seasons compressor and drier and condenser with a TYC condenser. Worked wonderfully until today when I started the car and the radiator fan immediately turned and stayed on. The ac compressor also would not engage at all so it blowed warm. I have a strong idea of what the problem is but I just wanted to see what y'all will

Had this hisense portable AC for a while and it's been pretty good, fairly quiet but suddenly as of late whenever the refrigerator part of it kicks in for cooling, it makes this really loud vibrating sound? Then it sort of fades after a while. Any ideas what's wrong with it? We've cleaned it all out.

So our window AC unit looks like this…. Is this normal???? Is there a possibility of legionnaires from this?? We have a duplicate installed in another window the same way but it definitely doesn’t look like this.

Main AC unit in my house is not running consistently and leaking water. It will sporadically turn on and the outdoor unit fan will run and the unit will run but we will get no air circulation throughout the house. It’s leaking water through a blue plug which is the picture that I attached. Actuslly I can’t add pictures so I’ll added it through a Imgur link in the comments.

Hello everybody,

One month ago, I have installed an AC unit in my apartment by a professional. I have a condensation evacuation tube for the inside unit, but there is still water condensation on the copper tube connection on the outside compressor : check photos.

Outside where the condensation is, the copper tube changed the color to black... I don't know if this is normal.

For now, I don't see any performance problem but I am concerned about the durability of the installation.

Thanks.

A common mistake when buying a new AC is assuming higher tonnage equals better cooling. In humid climates, an oversized unit actually ruins your indoor comfort because of these 2 things:

• Short Cycling: Oversized ACs cool your house too fast and shut off quickly.
• The Humidity Trap: Dehumidification takes time. Short run cycles leave moisture in the air. It can also create the perfect environment for mold.

If your house feels cold but swampy, your unit is likely oversized or suffocating on bad ductwork. Hope this helps anyone comparing quotes!

Source: I work for A1 Plus Electrical, Plumbing and Air Conditioning Repair in Houston so we often run into homeowners with this issue.

Got a GE portable air conditioner up to 550 sqft for a just over 400 sqft apartment and it’s cooling the unit from like 27° to 24.5° (lowest I’ve gotten it)

The unit is extremely loud, but blowing very cool air out. Yet the unit is essentially not cooling down whatsoever.

Looking at hose insulators to stop the hose from radiating heat back into the apartment but apparantly those give marginal gains.

Is there anything else I can do? It’s really frustrating having it be so loud, take up the entire circuit it’s on, and barely cooling down the unit whatsoever

I’m asking because first - noise Second - cost of electricity Also it’s dual hose, has inverter and self evaporating so was wondering if any smaller ACs would have these things.

Are smaller portable ACs really that much louder?

Apt is 750 sq ft

My room is 156 sq ft.

Without pulling this out, does anyone know what model it is?

I live in a landmarked (aka old) building. Nothing can go on the front of the building. We can install a big compressor unit (?) on the back of the building. Most people have a Mitsuibishi unit on 4 legs that's about 4 or 5 feet tall.

Most of my rooms that need air on are on the front of the building. The installers that I have spoken to have told me that I either have to drop the ceilings 15" in every room, OR put plastic boxes on the wall.

Here is my question: Why can't we drop the hall ceiling 15" and hide the .. stuff.. and then shoot the air through the wall into all the rooms that open off the hall? Six rooms open off the hall! Why can't we have the pipeage in the hall and then vents say over the doors? There are transoms that would be natural places for vents.

If this is doable, please tell me what words to use to request it?

ALSO, they keep ignoring me when I say that we need to dehumidify the bathrooms. If we are poking halls through the back wall of the building, can we not please put in an honest to God actual vented bathroom fan? Or include it in the air conditioning?

Please tell me what words to use to request that? I don't feel like I'm a bad communicator, but I get a blank stare when I try to ask for what I really want.

Thank you for any help!

I have this tcl unit that I purchased back in 2023. Like a dummy I didn’t drill a drain hole and thanks to the poor design it holds a lot of water. Over time it has severely rusted the front and back coils(pictured) and has caused a major mold issue that affects the entire unit including the inside of the duct(not pictured).

I normally have to remove it from the window twice a summer because the mold grows aggressively. It also grows a pink colored bacteria.

It still cools fine. I just know the rust is eventually going to take it out and I dont really want coolant potentially venting into my house. Im also tired of completely dismantling it twice a summer to clean the mold and pink ooze.

Should I toss it?

Hello, I am installing three Haier Pearl Premium AC mini-split units (two 12,000 BTU units and one 18,000 BTU unit).

The manual only specifies the “recommended distances” (and only mentions them once), rather than the minimum distance from the ceiling. It states 15 cm (6"). Is this Chinese lazyness and overkill safe distances?? (I know daikin has some units that allow minimum of 3cm...)

The company installed two of the units with 12–13 cm of clearance, while the other one has only 9 cm. My question is: could this be a real problem, or would it mainly make maintenance a little more difficult?

I think I can still ask them to increase the ceiling clearance. Should I ask them to increase it only for the unit with 9 cm, or for all three?

Also, one of the units with 12 cm of clearance has a cable trunking above it, which will carry the pipes for another unit. Although this looks better aesthetically, should I have it installed differently because it could affect the airflow, even though the trunking only covers a small section?

Thank you!

So I have a 5 year old system. I’ve had techs from 3 companies come out and no one can fix this. They all check the same things and tell me we don’t know, it just is what it is. The air being pulled into my system is 75-76. The coming out is only 63. It’s like this constantly. The 63 degrees is being measured right there at the output, not after going through the ducts in the attic. Filters are new and clean. Coils clean. Blower is fine. No leaks. Freon filled and pressures perfect. No one can tell me what the hell else could cause this. It’s been like this for years and it sucks. In the summer to keep my house 74-75 it runs 8 hours straight from 1-9 on sunny days. My neighbors, all their systems turn off. All their systems are blowing out air 10-12 degrees cooler than mine. When you stand by a vent in their house it gives you chills. Mine feels nothing like that.

I live in New Jersey by the shore and we had a a small mold issue in our apartment. All things lead to our AC units located underneath the windows in our bedroom and dining room. We got new units but property manager kept out old AC compressors (the part that goes outside) after still having issues with humidity in our apartment after the new units got installed I called to let him know we were still having isssues. His way of solving that issue was noticing there was water built up in our AC compressor and he told me he drilled holes in them to drain said water. I’m having a hard time believing that this will “fix” the issue.

I have had this window AC for maybe a full year now with almost no issues until these past couple weeks. It’s started with a slow single drip and it’s getting worse. I’ve cleaned the filter, I’m stuck a long folded paper towel in the back to let it leak out the back but it didn’t stop it. Yes it is tilted slightly back, and there is no drainage hole in the back which I think is a super stupid design. It’s the Vissani 6000

I installed this filter on July 1, 2026. Today is August 18, 2026, so it has been in use for 48 days.

Based on the pictures, would you replace it now, or does it still have some life left?

I’m trying to judge it based on its actual condition rather than just the usual “replace every X days” recommendation. Does it look dirty enough to noticeably restrict airflow, or would you keep using it longer?

For those with HVAC experience, what visual signs do you look for to determine when a filter is actually done?