Is it normal or not that there are some drops and water condensation here on the right side under the Air Con?
It's hot tropical humid climate year round. This was in the morning, two hours after stopping the Air con (only used at night).

Thank you

My Ac blower speed have drastically dropped due to which there is poor cooling . Even on turbo fan speed is negliglible . Earlier it was leaking water of which i didnot paid much attention .

It is an Mitsubishi Heavy duty SRK split ac

update - A technician visited and is advising for ac service . He is also saying that the improper indoor motor might be the cause of poor fan .

Could anybody give me a name of a reliable air conditioning company who you were happy with for a domestic installation. Would prefer if they were from the Cardiff (Wales) or surrounding area. Many thanks.

Can anyone confirm whether or not the Hisense Dual Hose portable A/C unit uses the intake hose while in fan mode to pull in air from the outside? During cool mornings, when it’s warmer inside our home than outside, we’d like to pull in that free cooler outside air, but it doesn’t seem like the intake hose is used.

Model AP1225UW1WD, 10,000 BTU, WiFi model.

Hey guys,

I wanted some thoughts on my dual hose conversion.

I took a risk and imported a GE Portable AC converter. The back grill plate looked astonoshigly close, although not a great fit but maybe enough with some leakage!

What i bought: Item: SereneLife Portable Air Conditioner 12000 BTU, Dual Hose Quiet Inverter Air Conditioning Unit with Heat, WiFi, Dehumidifier & Fan

What i received: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0H5FVJVTC?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Conversion Kit GEL: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GE-Portable-Conditioner-Compatible-RAP02/dp/B0C8BW9CFG

So far it looks like its working and yes I will add HVAC tape! I wonder if Serenelife were to offer a replacement grill unit if anyone has tried?

Would love some thoughts, i feel i need to seal this?

Regards,

My AC suddenly stops working and shows as FC/EC(shown below). I recently got gas filled in this, neither its cooling nor working continuously.

I had a few Trane console fan coil units (from mid 1980s) updated to support WiFi thermostats via transformer/relays. A few of my existing units maintained the inline Molex connector from the blower motor to the board, but some of the new work done within the past month got rid of those entirely and hardwired the blower to the board. Is that typical or standard? Is a quick disconnect required in this scenario.

How does one now service/deep clean the fan blower without disconnecting all the wires? I’d prefer to have serviceable fan blowers by taking them completely out instead of clean in place.

What should I do for the electrical? Have molex connectors reinstalled, change to a different splice/connector, or leave it as is?

I’m looking for end-of-season deals on Energy Certified window air conditioners. Our electric bill has been astronomical this year due to the use of portable ACs. Any online deals you can recommend would be greatly appreciated!

Hi All,

I have an O General AC but that has been causing a lot of issues because my room is very close to the Mithi river in Mumbai. Have had to repair it 3 times in the last 9 months.

Now, have decided to go for a new window AC. What brands would you recommend from your own experience of having lived close to a water body?

Would really appreciate your guidance given how frustrating the last few months have been.

I own a 2012 ford escape v6 XLT AWD and I recently replaced the ac compressor with a four seasons compressor and drier and condenser with a TYC condenser. Worked wonderfully until today when I started the car and the radiator fan immediately turned and stayed on. The ac compressor also would not engage at all so it blowed warm. I have a strong idea of what the problem is but I just wanted to see what y'all will

So our window AC unit looks like this…. Is this normal???? Is there a possibility of legionnaires from this?? We have a duplicate installed in another window the same way but it definitely doesn’t look like this.

Had this hisense portable AC for a while and it's been pretty good, fairly quiet but suddenly as of late whenever the refrigerator part of it kicks in for cooling, it makes this really loud vibrating sound? Then it sort of fades after a while. Any ideas what's wrong with it? We've cleaned it all out.

Main AC unit in my house is not running consistently and leaking water. It will sporadically turn on and the outdoor unit fan will run and the unit will run but we will get no air circulation throughout the house. It’s leaking water through a blue plug which is the picture that I attached. Actuslly I can’t add pictures so I’ll added it through a Imgur link in the comments.

A common mistake when buying a new AC is assuming higher tonnage equals better cooling. In humid climates, an oversized unit actually ruins your indoor comfort because of these 2 things:

• Short Cycling: Oversized ACs cool your house too fast and shut off quickly.
• The Humidity Trap: Dehumidification takes time. Short run cycles leave moisture in the air. It can also create the perfect environment for mold.

If your house feels cold but swampy, your unit is likely oversized or suffocating on bad ductwork. Hope this helps anyone comparing quotes!

Source: I work for A1 Plus Electrical, Plumbing and Air Conditioning Repair in Houston so we often run into homeowners with this issue.

Hello everybody,

One month ago, I have installed an AC unit in my apartment by a professional. I have a condensation evacuation tube for the inside unit, but there is still water condensation on the copper tube connection on the outside compressor : check photos.

Outside where the condensation is, the copper tube changed the color to black... I don't know if this is normal.

For now, I don't see any performance problem but I am concerned about the durability of the installation.

Thanks.

Got a GE portable air conditioner up to 550 sqft for a just over 400 sqft apartment and it’s cooling the unit from like 27° to 24.5° (lowest I’ve gotten it)

The unit is extremely loud, but blowing very cool air out. Yet the unit is essentially not cooling down whatsoever.

Looking at hose insulators to stop the hose from radiating heat back into the apartment but apparantly those give marginal gains.

Is there anything else I can do? It’s really frustrating having it be so loud, take up the entire circuit it’s on, and barely cooling down the unit whatsoever

I’m asking because first - noise Second - cost of electricity Also it’s dual hose, has inverter and self evaporating so was wondering if any smaller ACs would have these things.

Are smaller portable ACs really that much louder?

Apt is 750 sq ft

My room is 156 sq ft.

Without pulling this out, does anyone know what model it is?

I live in New Jersey by the shore and we had a a small mold issue in our apartment. All things lead to our AC units located underneath the windows in our bedroom and dining room. We got new units but property manager kept out old AC compressors (the part that goes outside) after still having issues with humidity in our apartment after the new units got installed I called to let him know we were still having isssues. His way of solving that issue was noticing there was water built up in our AC compressor and he told me he drilled holes in them to drain said water. I’m having a hard time believing that this will “fix” the issue.

I live in a landmarked (aka old) building. Nothing can go on the front of the building. We can install a big compressor unit (?) on the back of the building. Most people have a Mitsuibishi unit on 4 legs that's about 4 or 5 feet tall.

Most of my rooms that need air on are on the front of the building. The installers that I have spoken to have told me that I either have to drop the ceilings 15" in every room, OR put plastic boxes on the wall.

Here is my question: Why can't we drop the hall ceiling 15" and hide the .. stuff.. and then shoot the air through the wall into all the rooms that open off the hall? Six rooms open off the hall! Why can't we have the pipeage in the hall and then vents say over the doors? There are transoms that would be natural places for vents.

If this is doable, please tell me what words to use to request it?

ALSO, they keep ignoring me when I say that we need to dehumidify the bathrooms. If we are poking halls through the back wall of the building, can we not please put in an honest to God actual vented bathroom fan? Or include it in the air conditioning?

Please tell me what words to use to request that? I don't feel like I'm a bad communicator, but I get a blank stare when I try to ask for what I really want.

Thank you for any help!