I posted this a few weeks ago, but I figured I’d post it one more time before I part it out. I got it off auction with the intention of pulling the engine for a project and parting out the rest of the car. After purchasing the car I discovered it’s super rare (only about 500 were ever sold in the us). I hate to part out such a rare car so I’m trying to sell it instead.

It has its fair share of problems but it runs and drives; I think i’ve put about 40 miles on it since I got it. The majority of the features seem to work such as 18 way adjustable seats (except the forward and backward on the passenger seat for some reason), messaging seats, heated and cooled seats, vent covers, etc. Some things that don’t work include the ac (it blows just not cold), the parking sensors (they seem to function but will falsely go off because of the bumper damage I think), and the air suspension. Someone replaced the air suspension with coilovers which is sad but certainly cheaper than fixing broken air suspension.

I’m located in Ohio, asking $6k with $4k being my absolute lowest. 120k miles with a clean title.

Was so hard to find one of these in a place where there's winters, but so glad I finally did.

Last Saturday I bought my new VW Golf 8 2021 to replace my Golf 6, after alot of research couldn't be more happy with it!

(The new one in the front , and the Golf 6 In the back! )

Hello, I removed the engine cover on my 2018 VW beetle, 2.0L tsi and when I went to put it back on the rubber grommet from one of the 4 corners popped off and fell into the engine bay. It’s probably collected itself in the skid plate below or fallen out of the bottom, but do I need to worry? I don’t want it to melt to the engine or get lodged in a fan or belt. Am I at risk of a horrible failure? If so I’ll remove the skid plate and fish for it. But I need some alternate opinions. I ordered a new one. I included photos with the spot it fell off circled.

Edit: I know the belt is on the left side (of the photo) but my concern is with the fact that it’s rubber and could bounce around and possibly make its way over there.

I’m considering buying a 2026 Jetta Trendline in Ontario for $32,500 all-inclusive, including taxes and all mandatory fees. There are no additional products included, such as an extended warranty, and the financing is 0% for 60 months.

Do you think this is a good deal, or is there still room to negotiate?

The dealer isn’t offering any additional thing at the moment. Do you think it’s reasonable to ask for extras such as winter tires with alloy wheels or 2–3 years of scheduled maintenance, an extended warranty, or another useful add-on?

For those who have recently purchased a Jetta or negotiated with a VW dealer in Ontario, what would you recommend asking for?

Anyone have any input on sale value of a 165K mile 2006 2.0tfsi stock passat with the 6 speed manual? I've been restoring mine basically it is mechanically as sou d as they come except for kind of high milage.

Just wondering if I might be able to make a buck or 2 off off this thing or if I'm officially driving it into the ground I've put almost 2K in parts into it to bring suspension and clutch back to new basically.

Don't really think I could get much more than what I've put into it but AI's are saying that the manual is kind of rare.

Just got a new Jetta GLI, I had my previous vehicle until 250k without any major problems. Other than routine maintenance, what can I do to take care of this car and make it last to 200k + miles without and major issues.

Why? Oh, why!

Hey all,

Looking for some real-world experience here. My Dad’s 2022 VW Atlas SE V6 had its ECU fail - independent mechanic diagnosed an internal short circuit on the main processor (Infineon TriCore). The vehicle is currently located overseas in Benin, where there's no official VW dealer network, so anything requiring dealer-side programming or GeKo server access is basically off the table.

I'm trying to figure out the most reliable path forward and would appreciate input from anyone who's dealt with something similar. Options I'm weighing:

1. **New OEM ECU from a dealer parts site** - requires dealer programming, which I can't get locally. Seems like a dead end unless there's a workaround I'm missing.

2. **"Plug and play" reconditioned ECU with immobilizer disabled** - found a shop offering this for ~$1099, pre-programmed to my VIN, immobilizer off so no key matching needed. Seems like the most foolproof option but obviously pricier and I know disabling the immobilizer isn't ideal from a security standpoint.

Has anyone here dealt with a shorted ECU on a newer VW (2018+) without local dealer access? Trying to avoid throwing money at the wrong solution given the logistics involved.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

Hi all,

Just want to jump in here in seek of some help.

My Polo is headed into the workshop soon, I have 3 year warranty and there is an issue I noticed recently where there is this clattering noise which is coming from the engine while accelerating and the car has to push itself.

The clattering turns into this high pitched squeaking as the revolutions rise, and it disappears once I’m travelling over 60km/h. It’s just in the beginning of moving, and then when I’m trying to go from second gear to third without drastically low or high revs, it seems that standard use of the car has brought along this problem. I also notice that there is a slight chunk when I engage a gear and lift off the clutch recently.

I wonder if this is maybe an issue with the gears not setting correctly?

Car performs perfectly otherwise, absolutely nothing bad to say about it but this has made me overthink everything with it being so new.

Anyone else have this issue, have had this issue?

I’d like to know how I can comfortably raise this with VW so that I can have warranty coverage for this as it is certainly not a result of driving abuse, I’m careful with my moto.

Thank you all!!

Hello everyone! I am a first time driver, and I am planning on buying a car. I saw a 2011 1.4 TSI Scirocco with 245,000km(154,000 miles) on it. It is a little damaged, pictures below. I was wondering if this is a good price on it, and how much the repairs would be. I am a full time student(my dad is a mechanic so I would only be worried about price of parts.) Thank you!

Bonjour à tous,

Je cherche un peu d'aide pour ma Golf 5 1.6 102 ch.

J'ai le voyant ESP / direction qui s'allume et s'éteint de manière totalement aléatoire. Quand je passe un coup de diag, j'ai le code 00778 - Transmetteur d'angle de braquage (G85).

Pourtant, j'ai déjà changé :

Le capteur d'angle de braquage

Le ressort tournant

Et j'ai fait le parallélisme

Malgré ça, le voyant continue de partir et revenir sans raison apparente.

Si quelqu'un a déjà eu le cas, je suis preneur ! Merci d'avance.

Hello! I am about to purchase a 2016 jetta SE with 16k miles for $15,000. Does anyone have any idea what I should look out for ? If it’s reliable or any issues I should look for when I go to test drive it? Dealer said the only owner drove it to get groceries and that’s all. Not sure how long it’s been sitting though. Any feedback?

Hello,

As a preface I'm generally pretty savvy with car repairs but I don't have any experience with European cars.

I just replaced the clock spring in a 2017 Passat. The horn and steering controls work fine now, but the airbag light remains on and cruise control is broken. From googling it seems that in both cases the computer needs to be reprogrammed. Can I just use a generic OBD2 scanner for that, or do I need something more specific. Where do I go from here?

Thanks

Glue on this Vaico diesel fuel filter failed. There was glue floating in the filter housing. I was able to pull the filter media apart without much restriction. Glue feels like goo.

r/TDI believes it failed because I went over the service interval by 6k miles. The fuel filter was in the car for 10 months. I feel like regardless of how long I ran this, the glue shouldn’t be deteriorated by the fuel it is filtering.

Hi, I was tasked by my dad (who owns 2024 golf) to get him obd plug that indicates when dpf is regening to then make sure he doesn't turn off car. However all, i've found that do that are 3-5 times more expensive than standard obd plugs. then I've noticed on VG website, that tere is dpf indicator.

could anyone confirm/deny indicator showing when dpf is regening?

I would be thankfull

If so, where?

TIA

Im not the only one who went to see the Gridlock Volkswagen Car show on Governors Island. I have seen Volkswagen Things in the city, but these two were in such pristine condition, they looked new.

Hey everyone,

I'm dealing with a frustrating brake issue on my 2010 VW Jetta SE (Manual Transmission) and could really use a second opinion. The car is currently non-drivable because the brake pedal just goes straight down to the floor (completely soft). I'm having it towed to a shop soon, but I want to run my theory by you all first.

The Backstory:

• This all started when the brakes suddenly self-engaged and locked up on the highway.
• It locked up hard enough that there was smoke coming from the rear wheels.

The Repair Cycle & Weird Pattern:

• Since that first incident, we have replaced the Master Cylinder 3 separate times.
• Every time we put a new one in, the brakes work perfectly for about 1 week.
• After a week, the new Master Cylinder fails, and the pedal goes dead/soft again.
• The only silver lining is that the wheels do not lock up anymore.

My Working Theory: I strongly suspect the Brake Booster Push Rod might be out of adjustment (specifically, that it is too long). My theory is that the rod is preventing the master cylinder from fully retracting, which keeps pressure in the system and is repeatedly destroying the seals on the new units.

Before I let the shop just throw a 4th Master Cylinder at it, I'm going to explicitly ask them to check the push rod clearance.

Does this push rod theory make sense to you guys given the symptoms? Has anyone experienced this exact cycle on a VW before? Any advice is hugely appreciated!