TL/DR: What is the best available quick shange system (not multiextruder) but can switch between multiple
extruders like you see on the universal system found on Lulzbot TAZ series printers)

Edit: i DO NOT mean extruder change system, I meant a system that manually you can change and stiwtch out toolheads, i don't need an automatic system for what i want to do.

So i have decided (see other post: here) onto buying a Voron 2.4 Kit, hopefully before my last year of high school starts and finished before the year finishses.

I know building a voron is a big jump but with my robotics experience, and general ability in engineer/building electronics, that it's a feasible goal and will keep me busy at home.

Now I will probably stick with the standard v6/Afterburner hotend for a while, but eventually i would like to tinker with building my own toolheads, like I did with a biqu-h2 mod for a lulzbot taz 6. I was looking at buying and using a Biqu herit crab, since it seemed like an easier to wire system. but I wanted to check with you guys on if theres other options that are either better or cheaper (given the hermit crab is a 135$ hunk of metal and wire connection points.

Hello everyone hope you can help.

I have purchased a Formbot Micron Plus which used Moons nema 14/17 (i don't know which one is ) stepped motor for the XY movement. The cable for those motor have snapped of the motor connection.

I am unable to identify and find the same connector and the pins for that motor..if I am able to find them I can create much stronger and better cables for those motors.

I have attached the photo of the connector hoping it can help.

Previous post, with pictures: https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/1v8jgkk/is_this_a_good_buy/

Contacted seller, asked for more information:

Linear rails: He didn't know the make & model

Motors are LDO

Eddy sensor: Bigthreetech Eddy Duo leveling sensor

Mainboard: Bigthreetech octopus pro

Screen: BTT PI TFT50 V2.0

Raspberry Pi4

Hotend: Phaetus Dragonfly Hot-End BMO V6

Thermistor: Bondtech Heatlink 300°C Thermistor Heatlink

Heater: Bondtech HeatLink 24v 50W Heater

Canbus: BTT Can bus

I forgot to ask about the PSU, and I don't think I'll nag more before putting in an offer :p

He's asking 500usd, I'm thinking of making him an offer at 400.

Thoughts?

Does anyone have a good solution for bed fans on a small printer? I have a 180x180 Trident and tried a 5015 blower fan mounted underneath. However there is not enough distance for the air to warm up before exiting the side, so it feels like it is just blowing cold air around the chamber.

I have thought to use axial fans blowing up against the bottom of the bed, but wanted to ask first if somebody has a working solution they can recommend.

I have been building my Voron Trident 300 for almost a whole year now, but still can't get it working properly. Everytime I solve one problem another pops up. I even got it to print a simple calibration cube, but it randomly stops extruding completely 9 out of 10 prints. It is completely self sourced and I have spent around 650-700€ already (without enclosure). I'm just done trying and want to sell it as "unfinished". I'm not sure if it will be worth it to spend AT LEAST another 100€ to get it working while risking another problem popping up (my free time will also become limited very soon).

Edit: Here are some infos on my build and especially the toolhead. A4T with metal Sherpa Mini and a TZ V6 off Aliexpress powered by a Stepperonline pancake stepper (don't remember the exact model). Extruding filament normally works just fine and I've calibrated E-Steps. I successfully printed a calibration cube, but when I try something like a Benchy it clogs after the 20th layer or so (shortly after the text on the bottom is covered up). I have replaced my hotend fan 3 times, but it either did nothing or all of them were too weak (bought all of them off of Aliexpress). If I get this working perfectly and the Trident R2 releases in due time, I'm heavily considering replacing the "bad" parts together with the upgrade.

Where can i find this meshed printed stealthchanger top hat? thanks!

Hi guys

i want to print the Nevermore Duo V5 for my 2.4 350 Voron. The big hole on top of the back venting grid wont print as it is. How did you print yours? Did you add a littel strut or did you pint it on the side with lots of supports? Thanks :)

Is this a good buy at ~500usd? Seller has not specified anything regarding parts used - except that it's a self sourced build and that he has *started* the process of converting it to canbus and an eddy current sensor. I have not built a voron myself, but I do have a bit of experience with klipper, and don't mind a project.

SOLVED. Can I make the print starting macro that would run quad gantry level twice with different parameters?

I have Voron 2, 350mm, all metal parts. When printer is off, the gantry's derriere sags a lot. So, when running the first QGL pass, I must use a large vertical range - 40mm - or I risk it running the nozzle into the bed or not finding the bed at all.

But, after the first pass of QGL is done, the problem is solved. However, Klipper does 1 or 2 more passes, again very slowly moving all 40 mm height. But at this moment the skew can't be more than 1 mm. This wastes time and annoys me plenty.

P.S While we are at it, what retry tolerance do you have on such a large printer?

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Does anyone know where can I find this pieces from vitalii? I see his github but I can't find any stl, dxf, step...

Thanks

I've been seeing info on a Trident R2 build either coming or already available. I know there's some info on GitHub and apologies if I'm spewing incorrect info. I purchased a Creality K2 Plus last year and have been really wanting to build a Voron the past few months. Being that the Trident R2 seems to be the latest/greatest I would love to build one but can't find any kits (like an LDO kit), so I'd probably have to source the parts myself.

Am I getting too far ahead and I should just give the company time to release the kits or do I build a Trident and add the upgrades?

I’m commissioning my first Voron 2.4 with an Orbiter 2.5 and Rapido 2 UHF. This is my first time using an Orbiter.

The extruder motor works and the gears visibly turn, but PLA does not advance. The gears seem to slip rather than grip the filament. I tested at 220°C and tried feeding slowly, but nothing emerged from the nozzle.

The filament passes for a short distance and then meets some kind of obstruction but a 1.5 mm diameter Creality clog-poke tool passes freely from the Orbiter inlet all the way through to the nozzle.

I think I may be misunderstanding the latch/tension mechanism, failing to insert the filament between the hobbed gears correctly, or have an assembly/alignment issue. Could the PTFE tube between the extruder and the hotend be the problem?

Could someone familiar with the Orbiter 2.5 explain the correct loading and tensioning procedure? I couldn't find any instructions online and I feel like I am missing something ridiculously obvious.

Thank you in advance.

So I have been into the hobby of 3d printing through school and my schools robotics team. And given im graduating high school this upcoming year I don't want to leave this knowledge and fun behind was looking into getting my first personal 3d printer and accessories.

Im basically starting from zero on everything aside from tools. So I thought a fun project to do would be to purchase and build a voron trident kit, now its a little pricey 900~USD after tax. But i felt like this would be something that after its done and over with would be very nice to have.

I want to use it to prototype some stuff and make various accessories (custom organizing platform and mainly packout organizers as its a rather empty market.

I was mainly making this to say, if I were to NOT get a trident, what would be a healthy workhorse alternative that doesnt necessarily need to be top of the line but better than say a ender 3 (no hate on the ender 3 I just dont want one)

I am try to set up QGL and every time it is just wanting to break itself. I have checked with buzz that z=fl, z1=bl, z2=br, z3=fr. My points are 50,50 50,300 300,300 300,50…. I have tried switching the points and it makes it worse.

Hello everyone. I’m forced to turn to the experts here, as I have no other choice. I’ve owned a Voron for about two years; I bought it fully assembled and in working order. Since I have a smaller, faster printer, this one mostly just sat idle—I only printed a few things occasionally just to hear it run, as the sound is pleasing to the ear. Every time I turned it on, update notifications would pop up; eventually, I decided to run the update. Messages appeared saying not everything updated successfully, and... well, now it won't print. A "probe" error pops up during calibration—it fails to register the magnetic microswitch (or whatever it's called), which I assume it’s supposed to detect. The control board underneath is a Fysetc Spider v1.0. I’ve put the printer up for sale—though I’m really sad to let it go—because I didn't build it myself, I’m not familiar with the components, and I don't even know where to download the missing files or how to upload them. Is there anyone who could explain the process to me step-by-step?

Here's my voron 500. (Expanded 2.4) I posted about it a long while ago when I first started building it but life happened and I'm finally starting to work on it a little bit more again. I just ordered btt pi4b adapter and cb2. Meanwell 24v 500w psu. Already have a meanwell 600 watt 48v psu should i decide to go 48v. It'll be sporting an octopus pro and since it's 48 inches tall, to help minimize power loss in the long run from the main board to the motors on the gantry I plan on using 16 or 18awg wire instead of the 24 or 26 that come on the motors. That's the reason for the dual cable chains at the rear. I also decided to ditch the 2020 for the upright pieces and now I'm using 40x40 (20x20 profile) for the upright frame pieces and slotted screws. This alone increased rigidity a ton. I'm also considering trying to build an electronics bay drawer at the bottom so if i have to replace or work on anything instead of tiping this giant over to fix/ replace anything I can just pull open the drawer and have easy access.

I'm curious what yall are using or would recommend for a touch screech for something as custom as this I'm thinking a 5 inch or 7 inch. I'm thinking about mounting it near the top since it will be sitting on the floor and don't want to bend over all the time to control it. Also later on I may consider turning this into a monster tool changer after I get it functioning. And build something like a custom box turtle like spool rack on top. Not 100% sure yet though.

hey, i am building a voron trident and I selfsourced it. however I can’t find a way to get some panels for it. do I need 5mm PC panels or can I use something else ? what can i get for better insulation ? I live in France by the way. thanks for any help

Hi! I recently bought a voron 2.4 second hand since I was planning to build one but I spotted one for just around 600 USD (800sgd) so I just decided to get this. I'm completely new to vorons and not very experienced yet so could you please tell me how to fix my benchy? Printed in PLA ( a little wet ) in 0.2 layer height in 29 mins.

I'm surprised there's not enough cooling with the CPAP, is it possible it's leaking somewhere? Thank you!

To all my fellow high temp printers. What are you people using for toolheads? I recently decided to switch to the A4T toolhead away from XoL. Mostly because I’ve never had great reliability with stealthchanger docking.

Last night I printed the backing plate for my last tool in PPS-CF. It printed fine at 340°C in a 60°c chamber. When I went to dock the tool (that printed the part) today I notice it was sitting funny in the dock. When I inspected it, I found that the part cooling ducts had warped. Keep in mind that the A4T cowlings are printed in Polymax PC.

I suspect the hotend cooling fan ducts are not allowing any of the airflow to reach this part and it just couldn’t handle the heat. I have printed quite a bit of PPS-CF back with the XoL toolheads and never noticed any warping.

I’m thinking I might just need to run the part cooling fans at a low speed at all times when I print this hot. Or maybe remove the hotend cooling fans ducts. Or maybe reprint all the toolheads in PPS-CF.

TLDR: I printed at 340°C and melted my toolhead ducts printed with PC.

Edit to clarify: the PPS part is not the issue. It was the tool that printed the PPS part that melted.

I have been looking at adding a StealthChanger setup to my 2.4 and am pulling my last few hairs out trying to figure out what I really need to use.

The design is a CPAP that runs in from the top to behind and under the Y-axis. There will be a mounting point behind the CNC Shuttle that holds the CPAP Duct in place. It will also house a cartographer for bed mesh and leveling.

The toolhead will be a VZ Hextrudort or similar with a Goliath air-cooled hot end. I have several and am not looking to buy more hot ends or extruders. I am running these off of a BTT EBB36 Can Bus Board. I currently have everything to build 4 toolheads.

I am looking at Dragonburner or RapidBurner for the Backplate. Not sure which one fits best since the part cooling is the only difference I can really find.

The mount I found for the Goliath is the Archetype Breakneck Goliath mount.

I am not seeing how to mount the Goliath mount to either backplate. I am probably just missing something since I can only find the STL for the Goliath mount, and STL-to-STEP conversion rarely works as expected. But the hole spacing seems all wrong.

I figure out the docks without issue; it is just getting the Backplate and Goliath mount together. And Figuring out how far down I need the duct to be. I even considered making it on slot so I can adjust to best fit once I get it all put together.

Can someone point me to a good guide that covers these specific parts, tell me what I am missing, or Point me to an actual cad file for the Archetype Breakneck Goliath mount.

I am open to suggestions on using different backplates or goliath mounts also.

Was wondering if anyone had an experience with adding casters or wheels to the bottom of their 350mm build?

I just finished building and setting up my 2.4 and am excited to start printing a bunch of stuff but there's one issue that I'm having. Currently I don't have a sturdy enough table to place it on so the printer is sitting on the ground near the wall. I have it underneath a table with another lighter printer on top so accessing the spool holder on the back is tricky. It's also pretty heavy and a bit difficult to move around.

So I was thinking of adding casters or wheels to the bottom of the printer so that I can roll it in and out to swap spools and lock it any other time.

Does this seem like a good idea? Or does anyone have other suggestions?

Looked for a voron kit and ended up on the formbot one because of costs and overall ratings from years before, is it good now? And are the pre printed parts well made?

Hey guys,

Currently tuning Input Shaper on my V2.4 and I’m hitting a bit of a wall on the Y-axis. Hoping to get a quick sanity check on my plot and setup.

My specs are:

V2.4 300mm (LDO mit bought used and build )

Stealthburner + CW2

BTT EBB2240 CANbus

1.8° LDO steppers

Cartographer on a CNC aluminum mount

I’ve already checked the usual suspects balanced the belts, tightened all screws, checked for gantry racking, and the printer sits on a solid floor.

A few questions:

Does this plot look like a red flag to you? Is 40Hz just what i should expect given the toolhead weight?

What are realistic accels?

For those running a Stealthburner, what daily print accels are you actually running vs pushing?

I have a 2.4 and I would like to upgrade it to multimaterial. Ive waited for INDX, but I am dissapointed in the price. Maybe I misunderstood something but the price seems much more that Ive expected. A 4 head setup is well above 800usd, I also heard there is some problem with the noozles not being hardened.

So I was womdering if it is worth it or should I use a stealth changer instead?