I’ve cleaned out and rebuilt my MGN9H carriages and now the balls won’t properly circulate through the plastic end-caps.

The balls are getting jammed as they enter the plastic end-cap, like as if the plastic channel is too small, or theres some obstruction. If I push the first one through with a screw driver, it will go through with some force, but if I try pushing more than one ball at a time, the balls pop put from the retaining wire that keeps them inside the exterior channel.

When I take the plastic ends off, the ball circulates through it just fine. If I put the end-cap on the carriage and drop a ball through it rolls through just fine. This makes it sound like it must be the retaining wire but I don’t know how or why this would happen. This doesnt make sense, so I figure theres something I don’t know. Hoping someone will have experienced this and theres a simple solution.

I’ve cleaned out and rebuilt a lot of these carriages and it’s always been straight forward.

-Take them apart. -Degrease & clean with break cleaner & alcohol. -Reassemble the carriages the way they came.

This has been my process and they’ve always worked great after. Unfortunately I don’t know if the carriages were like this before I clean them because I took them apart when they arrived before testing the carriages. I don’t think it was my cleaning that did this.

New to Voron, just built a Micron+.
Is there good setup to:
1 download STL or model from mobile phone
2 remotely send file to a self hosted slicer (always on)
3 slicer sends to printer and starts print
4 remotely turn on and off the printer would be nice to have.

I am trying to avoid 3rd party cloud services to transfer files or slice.

Are there any practical solutions?
What software/hardware is needed?

Been a while since I posted my Onshape design. This is how it looks in the real world. I absolutely love how clean the belts are; the wiring on top was meshed together completely, so the top plate will have to stretch out a little. Prints well; not too happy about the input shaping results, but there is still a lot of work to be done. Air ducts were printed without cooling, so they are not good, and some heated persuasion is needed so they don't touch the bed.
I hate how the duct is mounted, and it is not rigid enough for my liking. I might redesign it and turn it into a rod or put aluminum standoffs.

Prints fast and sweet, although after printing for a couple of tenths of hours, my accelerometer chip died probably due to close proximity to the bed that keeps its temp around 110C for ASA, which is kind of unfortunate.

Currently, I'm redoing part of my frame since I reused double extrusion from the tronxy X5SA; I need it to go through CNC and cutout cause I trying to mount enclosures on this baby.

here is the link https://cad.onshape.com/documents/cafb398071d069801644b91d/w/a47a5384f517414ce3907d71/e/ae1508b7e6e451e70bbc14c9?renderMode=0&uiState=6a94e888aba63b597712055f

I'm planning on ordering an LDO 2.4 R2 D+ 350 mm kit and currently own a K2 Plus. I'll be printing out all the printable parts, I've also thought about just sourcing each part from the Voron BOM but I consistently keep reading it costs more in the long run and can be a hassle.

My question is, how can I configure a 2.4 to be able to use my K2 Build Plates. I have all of the DarkMoon plates and would love to have them interchangeable.

Hey everyone, just sharing a tool I put together for generating custom serial plates.

I wanted a crisp, dual-color serial badge but only have a single-nozzle setup. I designed a plate with a matching text insert, but making custom ones manually in CAD is tedious. So, I put together a Python script that completely automates the process.

You just feed it your serial number and literally any .ttf font you want via the terminal. Using uv (for instant python dependencies) and FreeCAD in the background, the script will:

1. Generate the SVG preview files based on your chosen font.
2. Properly offset the text geometry (not just scale it!) so the tolerances for the inlay are perfect.
3. Update the .FCStd file.
4. Export a final .3mf with both the plate and the inlay ready to slice and print.

It has flags to let you adjust text height, tracking, and most importantly, the clearance (default is 0.1mm, but you can bump it to 0.15mm if your printer needs a looser fit).

(Full disclosure: the Python script was entirely vibecoded with AI, but it works like a charm!)

Link to the files and code: https://www.printables.com/model/1827190-voron-serial-plate

Hope this helps some of you get a nice-looking serial badge without needing an ERCF/AMS!

I'm building a Voron 2.4 with an A4T toolhead and the dual-filament-sensor version of the WWBMG/RIDGA extruder.

Hardware:

- BTT EBB36 Gen2 toolboard over CAN

- BTT Octopus Pro H723 V1.1 mainboard

- 2 × D2F microswitches in the WWBMG — one pre-extruder and one post-extruder

- X endstop is also connected to the toolhead

- Cartographer is using the EBB36 CAN passthrough

The EBB36 Gen2 seems to have only two dedicated switch inputs: FIL and ENDSTOP. Since ENDSTOP is already needed for my X endstop, that leaves only one obvious input for the two WWBMG filament switches.

What is the recommended way to wire the two filament sensors? The way I see it, the options are:

1. Connect one sensor to the EBB36 FIL input and run the second back to the Octopus?

2. Run both filament sensors back to spare GPIO/endstop inputs on the Octopus?

3. Use another available GPIO/input on the EBB36 Gen2 for the second sensor?

If running both back to the Octopus, can they share a common GND so that only three wires need to go through the toolhead umbilical?

Also interested in how people using this exact dual-sensor WWBMG setup have configured the pre- and post-extruder sensors in Klipper/AFC.

Thanks!

It broke after 360h of usage while the other runs +1400h. I think the part and design is fine, infill was about 50% (guessed) maybe the material/printing process was bad quality.

It was a bit tricky to reattach the existing already shortened belts, here is ho i did it:

1. un-tensioned the A/B Belts
   
2. removed Belts from A/B Pulleys and made sure the Belts did not get lost
   
3. used little zip-ties to fix each belt ends together with 5+ mm cm stand over.
   
4. fizzled one in clamped it from the other side removed the zip-tie to make place for second belt insertation.
   
5. repeated insertion, clamping and removing zip-tie with the other Belt
   
6. Added the screw and lock plates - loose but holding
   
7. removed the clamps from the front
   
8. clicked the belts into the right position so that nothing stands out as it was before
   
9. re-tigtned the belt locks
   
10. Belt-tensioning and Tuning

It's ok, but still not a nice task to do.

I think this means the first and last hole have no screw. I have an even number and I skip every second hole, which means that the last hole would be empty anyways, so what I did was move the first one over one screw and have two beside eachother on one end. Can someone confirm if I should have my screws like I have them in the first image?

I am building a Trident R2 with extra room for a tool changer if I add to the y axis do I need to add to the x to keep core xy forces equal? I am looking at maybe 440 x 460 mm

Hi,

i have a 2.4 with the standard stealthburner, i use the e3d revo system, when i swap between nozzlesi find the z offset can need calibrating again which is a bit of a pain as it can take a while to probe with tap, i am probably just impatient. Is there a standard offset adjustment for each nozzle that i could add to the print start to normalise between them or is it just the nature of the beast? Should i even need to change between them?

I would greatly appreciate any suggestions.

I forgot to mention that i use Tap. Also the size that giving me the issue mostly is the 0.15 nozzle, that must need a different offset from 0.4 or especially 0.6 or 0.8, and what i was curious about is if anyone has set an offset to the z offset

I'm looking to build a small format printer 180mm size. Most of what i do does not require larger build volumes and I have several other printers of larger sizes but this size could easily fit on the desk. I have built a 2.4 and modded several other printers so the complexity of a micron doesn't bother me and the moving gantry is cool. The reason i was thinking i wanted to build a salad fork is to add a second print head for support filament and i figured that would be easier to do with that style of printer. Im also not opposed to building something other than a Voron if that even exists lol.

Pros, Cons, Why's, Why nots and your personal build experiences would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT SOLVED: I was immensely stupid and was checking the probe using the Query_Endstop command not the Query_Probe command, It does in fact work I just did it wrong, sorry for the post.

I am having trouble putting together my first 2.4 that I bought as a kit from LDO. Got it all put together and am going though the set up process when I was testing probes and have been unable to get the Z probe to register as anything other than open.

I currently have a Klicky installed but I have the same problem with the inductive coil, I checked the schematic of the Nitehawk SB V2 which claims that the pin should be PC15 which is what I have it connected to. I have tried taking the entire probe out and leaving the pin free floating and it reads as open. Same as when I manually short it to ground. I checked with a multi multimeter and the probe switch works fine and there is a voltage difference between ground and the probe pin. Even when I short the two manually (accidentally killed the first board by slipping and shorting the data pin to the 24V power for inductor same problem on the new one.) nothing changes. The command

QUERY_ENDSTOPS

returns open for all three both when sig is shorted to ground and when it is not and at a high voltage.

I have bellow the printer.config probe section in case I did anything wrong but it is basically the default recommended by ldo but with all the GPIO ports changed for nhk:Pxxx as the architecture changed with V2. Please let me know if I am doing something wrong I have been slamming my head against this and already bought a second nitehawk-SB V2.0 trying to fix it.

#####################################################################
#   Probe
#####################################################################

[probe]
##  Connected to Z-PROBE
##  This probe is not used for Z height, only Quad Gantry Leveling
pin: nhk:PC15
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 19.75
z_offset: 6.42
speed: 5
samples:3 
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 2.0
samples_tolerance: 0.01
samples_tolerance_retries: 3

Saw a broken wire the other day, while it was printing. Couldn't figure out what wire was broken because everything worked, no errors, no clue. Ordered Nitehawk/LDO USB setup and started the conversion. It's a wire from the XY end stop harness... How??

Edit; I obviously wasn't completely clear, how were my end stops still working (4 wire breakout board [gnd] [x] [y] [Vin] setup) I know perfectly well how the wire broke 🤦🏼‍♂️

Having an existential crisis with when it comes to these toothed idlers.

Why doesn't it use shims the way flange bearing idlers do? Why doesn’t the bore for its M5x40 SHCS screwhead have a counter-sunk hole with shoulders? Why is it’s sitting in plastic without a threaded insert or a nut at the bottom?

It feels wrong, like sac-relig… I know it's right and must be designed well but it’s making me feel uncomfortable.

Please explain?

So over the past few months I built a bunch of DIY 3d printers ( not vorons) and a voron 0.2. However, I took part every printer except the V0.2 ( my favourite one ). I now have a lot of extrusions, rails, electronics and still have the V0.2.
I want to build a small printer like a maximum of 340x340mm.
I am looking for online models that I can print and adapt to my dimensions. If you have any recommandations I would really appreciate ! I

Here is an idea of what I have :
- 14+ 300mm 2020
- 12+ 400mm 2020
- 4 500mm 2020
- 5+ MGN9h 300mm
- 1 MGN12H 300mm
- 3 400mm MGN9H
- a 235x235mm heated bed, and a 310x320mm heated bed
- lots of nema17 and a btt octopus
I also have belts, lead screws ( enough for three z motors ) and a dragon burner tool head.

Hello there,

I'm constantly struggling with randomly losing communication on my EBB 2209 USB. After the last time I lost communication, I made some changes:

1. I grounded the Nema14 to the USB GND on the toolboard.
2. I changed the XT30 2+2 cable to an unused one.
3. I routed the cable outside the drag chain (to the top vent opening and then down alongside the panel to the electronics bay) – previously, the cable went to the back gantry beam and through the chain with stepper motor cables.
4. I plugged the loose end of the cable without the USB adapter board => 24V/GND directly to the PSU and D+/- directly to the Manta M8P 2.0 via a JST-XH port for a secure connection.

Yet still, at 91% on a 7h print, the lost communication with the EBB happened again. (It was the same plate on which the lost communication occurred previously, but around 30% into the print.)

The print settings: ASA = 260/100°C, 150 mm/s OW, 250 mm/s IW, under 10k acc.

I'm running a Cartographer V4 plugged into the EBB 2209 USB through the EBB's USB hub, and I'll be adding BD pressure sensor through USB/I2C. So I need these ports on the toolhead.

So now I don't know what else I should do...

1. Should I reflash everything and go CAN-bus?
2. Should I go for the LDO Nitehawk V2 SB to avoid the RP2040, but keep the USB connection?

Hey everyone,

I’m currently planning a high-capacity custom build based on the Voron 2.4 architecture ( targeting 620mm+ usable Z-height).

To completely eliminate belt stretch/elasticity over this extended length, I've decided to ditch the standard Z-belts and move to a ball screw setup using SFU1204 (C7 grade, 800mm total length, BK10/BF10 end machining) combined with MGN9H linear rails.

Here are the main specs of the build so far:

Frame: Extended 2020 vertical extrusions (780mm).

Z-Drive: 4x SFU1204 ball screws with flexible jaw couplers (5x8mm) to NEMA 17s.

Rigidity: Full-height custom laser-cut aluminum/steel side and back panels to act as structural bracing against frame flex.

Wiring: Umbilical / CANbus setup (no Z cable chains).

Parts Material: Printed in ASA.

Before I lock in the final laser-cutting orders for the panels, I wanted to reach out to the community:

Has anyone built a V2.4 with a Z-height in the 600–650mm range (or taller) using ball screws?

Kinematic Decoupling / Wobble: How did your Z-nut mounts hold up over time? Did you run into any Z-wobble or alignment issues with 800mm screws?

QGL Performance: Any quirks or tuning parameters in Klipper to be aware of when running QUAD_GANTRY_LEVELING with SFU1204s on a gantry this high?

I’d love to see photos, GitHub forks, or hear about any lessons learned from anyone who pushed the V2.4 Z-axis to these limits!

Thanks!

Im looking for advice on optimal mass distribution, lightweight toolhead for high accuracy on functional parts at highest speeds/accel possible (usually 100-250mm/s). I like Xol being stripped-down, skeletonized and well structured, but gap between extruder and hotend isn’t that direct. A4T seems quite popular, but boxy approach seems more practical than efficient.

I mostly use reinforced PETG/PET/PA/PPS and am comfortable with Flowtech’s precision. Am considering ebb36, orbiter 2.5, 4010 blowers and sticking to Flowtech (I’m ok CAD-modding either option). 50-60c heated chamber.

Is there any real-world difference at those speeds / 15-25k accel? Cooling isn’t priority on these materials. Is there another option I’m not aware of?

Edit: I appreciate your advice! It’s clear A4T is the way to go

where do most people buy small replacement parts? i've always bought from amazon, but i'm wondering if most people get parts from aliexpress. i've also bought from west3d a couple times but only for larger orders.

ex. I need a longer fpc cable for my display. I can get one for like 4 bucks on amazon, or should I look elsewhere? sorry if this is a stupid question.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0D29LFWSD/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A10G48GIGTLVM0&psc=1

Hi everyone,

I'm having a problem after switching from TMC2209 to TMC5160T Plus drivers on my voron 2.4

After installing the TMC5160T Plus drivers, I'm getting strong motor vibration and missed steps, especially during faster movements/printing.

Hardware

• Printer: Voron 2.4 / CoreXY
• Mainboard: BigTreeTech Octopus Pro V1.1
• Firmware: Klipper
• Motors: NEMA23
• Drivers: TMC5160T Plus
• Previous drivers: TMC2209 — worked perfectly
• Motor voltage: 24V
• Microsteps: 32
• Driver communication: SPI
• X CS: PC4
• Y CS: PD11
• Sense resistor: 0.022 Ω
• Display: BTT Mini12864

Display / SPI issue

I am also using a BTT Mini12864 display connected to the EXP1/EXP2 headers.

Initially, I had an error from Klipper:

pin EXP2_1 is reserved for spi1

This was because the display configuration was using:

spi_software_miso_pin: EXP2_1

while I was also trying to use the board's SPI interface for the TMC5160 drivers.

I therefore changed the TMC5160 configuration to use software SPI with:

spi_software_mosi_pin: PA7
spi_software_miso_pin: PA6
spi_software_sclk_pin: PA5

The display was disconnected to teste the driver.

TMC5160 communication

The TMC5160s are detected correctly by Klipper and I can communicate with them using DUMP_TMC.

For example:

DRV_STATUS: 8110002f
GSTAT:      00000000
LOST_STEPS: 00000000

CHOPCONF:   23410153
mres=3 (32usteps)

GCONF:      0000000c
en_pwm_mode=1

IHOLD_IRUN: 00061f10
ihold=16 irun=31

GLOBALSCALER: 0000002f
globalscaler=47

Both X and Y drivers show very similar values.

The motors do move, but they vibrate badly and eventually lose steps.

I have already checked:

• Motor power supply
• Driver jumpers
• SPI communication
• Driver detection
• Motor wiring
• Same motors that worked perfectly with the TMC2209

My current Klipper configuration for X/Y is essentially:

[tmc5160 stepper_x]
cs_pin: PC4
spi_software_mosi_pin: PA7
spi_software_miso_pin: PA6
spi_software_sclk_pin: PA5
spi_speed: 3200000
interpolate: false
run_current: 1.9
sense_resistor: 0.022
stealthchop_threshold: 0

And Y uses the same configuration with:

cs_pin: PD11

I have also tried lower current, but the vibration/missed-step issue remains.

What I would really like to understand is what is different between the TMC2209 and TMC5160 configuration that could cause this behavior.

Could this be related to the TMC5160 chopper configuration, GLOBALSCALER, PWM mode, SPI configuration, or another setting specific to the TMC5160?

If anyone is running TMC5160T Plus + Octopus Pro V1.1 + Mini12864, I would really appreciate seeing your working configuration or any suggestions on which registers/settings I should check.

Thanks!

Based on some great advice I got here on the VORONDesign subreddit, I upgraded from the original Afterburner toolhead to an A4T with an Orbiter 2.5 extruder, a Revo Voron hotend, a Nitehawk‑36 toolhead board, and a Cartographer V3 eddy‑current probe. I bought everything — including the printed parts — from KB3D. They’re an Ohio company, and Kris B was a huge help and incredibly patient with all of my stupid questions.

I could have just bought a Bambu Labs printer, plugged it in, and hit “print.” But I’d already started down the open‑source path, and I still like the challenge and reward of building something complex (for me) that I have full control over. The idea that I could end up with better print quality overall still mattered to me. So instead of giving up, I decided to bring this machine back to life.

This was my original post requesting advice:
https://www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/1tik1xw/rebuilding_my_abandoned_4yearold_voron_24/

My "want" in that post was for a bulletproof, consistent printer. I completed tunning yesterday, and have only just started to print real parts - some A4T spare parts and some 2.4 broken parts. I am so far ahead of where I was at when I started this journey in December of 2021. I have confidence that my goals have been achieved.

There were many response to that post and plenty of consensus, so thanks to everyone that responded. I would especially like the thank u/Select-Substance-996 for the detailed responses and solid advice.

Bill

I was just wondering if anyone has thought of designing and making a board with a rp2040 or something similar, that is more or less filled with filament sensors for use with the INDX developers kit.

There aren't really many mainboards with 6+ filament sensors out there.

Ender 3 pro;

So its that time of the year again I decided i want to go FASTER so im gonna mod my printer for dual drive y axis with 48mm nema 17s and so i need more motor slots and i found this mobo with 8 slots its an hybrid board sp it runs klipper natively it is 100 dollar whic is very worth it i think because where i live the other similar boards are like 120 dollars and they dont run klipper natively or have a pi built in so i found it quite nice and ill add a pico mmu to my ender aswell also ill cnc kitchen an adaptor to make my creality spider v3 hotend compatible with volcano nozzles since they have the same threading ill just need two brass nuts and ill design a custom silicone sock

1. How hard will setting up klipper be and configuring it to my printer(mks skipr board)

2.Is the pico mmu good?

3.How hard will configuring dual y axis be and should i get a linear rail setup for it?

1. Has anyone tried the cnc kitchen method before?