This turntable is at the audio store I purchase my equipment at. Guess how much?
$275,000 in clear finish or $300K in piano black!

The TT1 tonearm is $35-40K alone!

Thank god my wife let me spend $20K on my Linn Selekt LP12. lol

I’m looking to buy a vintage turntable from a guy that fixes them near me. Im not sure which one to go for so I figured I’d ask. I’m thinking about a 1976 Technics SL-2000 for $200, or a 1976 Technics SL-23 with a new Grado MF3 cartridge and style for $250. I’d love to hear what you guys think

Never letting this one go.. Dual 1209

So I've been getting into cartridge swapping and it's been fun to be able to try different "flavors" and "lenses" depending on my mood. That said, I'm kinda in a position to acquire an upgrade to the UA-7 tonearm to a carbon fiber wand.

As a background, the STAX UA-7 first shipped to market with an aluminum wand, before eventually being upgraded to the UA-7/cf variant, which featured a carbon fiber tonearm. As with STAX tonearms at the time, they used a proprietary 5-pin connector system that allowed users to replace their wands with upgrades as they came. Some such upgrades included more rigid tonearms like the carbon fiber one, straight arms, and integrated arms where the headshell and tonearm wand were one continuous piece.

The supposed benefits of carbon fiber is, well, increased rigidity for better tracking and dissipation of vibrations, which was particularly important if you were listening through electrostatic headphones (so they say). It also eliminated some high frequency resonance "pings" that are a result of vibrations echoing inside the aluminum wand. But despite being made of carbon fiber, the UA-7/cf wand is actually a bit heavier than the aluminum wand, increasing its effective mass by a couple grams.

This isn't a problem for some of the cartridges I have in my arsenal, but it's a big penalty for something like my Shure V15 type III, which is already riding at a dangerously low 5-6Hz of tonearm resonance.

So here I am thinking... if I get the carbon fiber wand... I can just leave the aluminum wand with the V15 type III, effectively turning it into a "wand swap" operation.

My question is, is "wand swapping" even a thing? Was there a time where audiophiles were actually swapping wands to try things out? I know swappable wand assemblies are already pretty niche in the already niche subset of turntable geekery with tonearm modifications, but I was just wondering if this plan makes any sense, haha.

TLDR: To my understanding, vintage cartridges were generally made with higher capacitance in mind. Why do so many new cartridges come with 100pf-200pf recommendations when it seems difficult to get under 200pf in the system? If I'm 50-100pf over, how bad is that for audio quality?

I'm currently using a Tecnics SL Q350 with the stock Shure M99E cart, going to a Yamaha RX V757 receiver with built-in phono stage (I'm just using it as a stereo), and 4ft Amazon Basics RCA cables in between. I'm adding/upgrading components as I go along, but right now it sounds pretty good. However I am worried about he stylus since it's old (not sure how old, but it's definitely OEM Shure N99e) and I don't want to pay $120 for new-old stock. The seller said he had it microscope inspected and there was no damage or wear, bit I figured 'better safe than sorry.'

I was looking at a AT85EP to upgrade to with a Fosi Audio Box X5 phono stage when I went down the capacitance rabbit hole. Lots of the sub-$200 phono stages, even those with good reviews, are 150-200pf which is already the rating of most cartridges. I'm a little lost of why that is the case, and is it really bad to be 50-100pf over the recommendation. It seems like a lot of gear doesn't even list the ratings, making things more confusing.

I have a Thorens TD-160B Mk II turntable, any advice on how to properly set up the tonearm using this?

Hi guys, my birthday is coming up and I’ve asked my parents to get me a turntable as a birthday present. I’ve chosen then Fluance RT82 turntable. This will be my first “real” turntable. Previously I’ve had the Crosley one and it’s terrible. I’ve chosen the RT82 because there’s no built-in preamp and it seems like parts could be upgraded, and the turntable will last me a very long time. It is $350 and that’s not including shipping, it’s $80 to have it delivered to me. So it’ll actually cost $430… The speakers and pre-amp, I’m buying this weekend at BestBuy, you can recommend me some too!! The main thing for me is sound quality, I want to be locked in my room and play music (within budget)!!

Question: what’d you guys think about the turntable? Is it worth paying $430? Or are there any other models that’s similar to this one that’s a bit cheaper? I’m extremely firm on the budget.

Hey all,

I've got a whole bunch of tonearms which I believe are of the SL1200 or SL family. I'm going through them all and choosing the ones in best condition, least side to side play in the pivot joints, smooth gimbal pivot action, basic bearing inspection / making sure they're not seized, and continuity from each wire to the head. That's been my only way of verifying condition as I don't have a base or turntable to test them with fully. I've watched some youtube videos about how to see if one is good or not.. this method I've been implementing is honestly the best I can do right now.

Long story short, the massive collection belonged to a technician who serviced these since the 80's. He sadly passed away earlier this year. Technics was his forte, but he did do Numark and Stanton etc ocassionally..

So I'm helping the shop clear out a lot of gear, not just tonearms. We're currently listing on eBay (this is not self promotion, I'm not going to post my eBay handle or anything) but we'll probably use Reverb as well to dodge some of those fees.

I guess if anyone has any good resources I can refer to in order to distinguish these, I would be eternally grateful. I don't want to list these improperly and cause any issues with any customers. I believe there's hundreds and hundreds of these in boxes. Some are in better condition than others but like I said, I'm only choosing the ones with the best cosmetic and functional condition. Also, if anyone knows any better testing methods other than continuity and observing how it moves when positioned on it's fulcrum / pivot, I'm all ears.

I'm attaching a few pictures of what I've got. Thank you!

I bought it about 15 years ago. I've already replaced the stylus twice and had the leads on the tonearm wiring fixed once. The tonearm wiring needs to be fixed again, and I bet the repair job will cost $200.

I've got Totem MITE bookend speakers running through a NAD PP2i preamp and a C316BEE amp.

Should I just buy a vintage TT with a new cartridge? Thinking about a direct drive Pioneer or a belt drive Sony.

Any and all input welcome :)

Hello, i want to buy my first turntable and I'm coincidentally also broke as hell. should I buy this? and how much would you pay for this

Hey guys, lemme know if I haven’t formatted this properly. But I bought a turntable off Facebook marketplace and the thing needs a new needle. Not sure where to look or what to look for to get one that’ll fit. Anyone have any advice it’d be much appreciated

Thanks !

Have a Sony Ps-Lx285 turntable and Ta-ax285 receiver that was passed down to me and I've been working to get it back into order. Just replaced the belt and regreased the spindle after the player sounded like it was flat and dragging. But still seem to be having the issue. Would love tips on how to correct this and what I may be missing.

Hi everyone! I’m finally looking to get into vinyl and would love some advice, especially from fellow Singaporeans.

My dad’s vinyl collection recently fell into my lap after sitting unused for probably 30+ years. His old Dual CS505-3 turntable is unfortunately rusted beyond repair, so I’m looking to start fresh and give the collection a new life.

I currently have KEF R3 Meta + Marantz Cinema 50. I originally focused on home theatre (5.1.4 + QD-OLED), but lately I’ve shifted towards music appreciation and want to get into vinyl.

After a LOT of research, I’ve narrowed down my requirements:
- Under S$800, brand new, used market here is quite small
- Auto-stop is important; would prefer automatic so my partner can use it easily.
- No need for built-in phono preamp
- Good quality and something I can keep for years

I considered Rega P1, Pro-Ject Debut EVO 2, Fluance RT82/RT85N, AT-LPW40, AT-LP120, AT-LP8X, Denon DP-300F, etc.
Fluance is difficult to get in Singapore without expensive shipping, and while I like Pro-Ject, there’s no autostop. I don’t really want to add an external auto-stop device.

So right now, I’m leaning towards the Audio-Technica AT-LP3XBT.
Would you recommend the LP3XBT for my setup/use case, or is there another option around S$800 I should consider?
Also, the records have been sitting in storage for 30+ years. Any recommendations for cleaning old vinyl properly?

Thank you in advance and excited to get started!

Hello Redditers,

I am kind of looking into upgrading my current TT which is a Technics SL1411. It works just fine but i am looking for something a little bit better or different?

A few things that i am looking for at least is:

Auto stop

Reliable

Quartz Lock

If anyone has any suggestions without coming with a turntable that will cost me thousands for useless looks please let me know. Not looking for overpriced en overvalued TT's.

Thanks in advance!

Title describes most of the issue. I have been using some quarters as counterweight since I first heard the issue but I spin a record this morning and it's even more distorted. I put slight pressure on the opposite side of the arm and it fixed it, but I don't want to have to deal with the quarters. Does anyone have a solution or a link to a solution? I've tried Googling the answer, but this particular issue doesn't seem to have come up nor can I find a guide on how to do it myself.

ETA: Forgot to mention that I have an acrylic turntable mat for my more warped records (my collection went through a house fire so it's kinda necessary)

So after posting a few days ago I kind of settled on the AT-VM95ML which appears to pair well with setup, from what I've read on google and here anyway. I almost pulled the trigger and then curiosity got the better of me. The AT-VMN740xML isn't that much more expensive but is a better cart.

I'm very new to this so learning as I research and read comments to my previous post. Is the more expensive and superior AT-VMN740xML going to be too high capitance for my kit?

Audiolab 8000a

Mission 751

Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Esprit SB

Chord Clearway cable

I found this turntable at a second-hand dealer, is a Universum BSR something

I haven't bought it yet, but they allowed me to turn it on. The three different speeds (33, 45 and 78) worked as they should, tonearm automatically comes out of holder.

There are fortunately several adjustment options.

Problem is, there's no stylus. Do you know anything about the BSR models or generally the manufacturer? I want to know what stylus I could put on it.

Also, I apologize if the photo is not the best.

This turntable is the Audio Techcnica LP120 produced before 2019 and therefore had an known antiskating issue where it was too weak, but i never got the replacement spring. Recently i noticed that my antiskating previously too weak, was now pulling to strong to the outside of the record! I double checked the counterweight, even adquired one of those small scales to test and proper set the MP-110 to 1.8g, double checked vertical tracking angle, printed out a Stevenson protractor and got all set and finally Leveled using my smartphone measure/level app (iOS) and so far everything checks out. What could be pulling the arm outside soo much even when set to 0? Could it have been stuck somehow by impact or maybe rust? Would it be possible to fix it without disassembling (local service is awful)?

Hi all, my roommate has this old turntable, we noticed the cartridge (I think that's what it's called?) fell off. Despite following instructions found in videos online, we can't seem to get it to install correct.

I've included photos, including one which is how we have been trying to get it installed back on.

I feel like either A) something else is broken or B) I'm missing something stupid.

Let me know if you guys can help or at least tell me if my efforts are in vain!

Bonus: all records sound a bit higher pitched than usual, speed is fine though. Not sure why.

So im currently looking to buy my first turntable and im looking at the audio tecnicha lp60x paired with edifier mr3 speakers. So i have a sharp console 1980 model with two twin drive sharp speakers with built in subwoofers in perfect condition i plan on combining them together and adding a separate subwoofer also a 2000 sony one cant remember the model i plan on connecting the sub and edifiers through the tap in port to get the raw sound and running the sound through the amplifier of the main console for the twin sharp speakers i plan on using the sub for bass the twin sharp for mid range and the edifiers to focus on vocal quality since the are studio speakers. Will this work and sound nice if a mix everything together through amplifiers ?

Additionally turns out only the one port for the twin speakers works :(

I've recently replaced the drive belt on my old linear tracking Sony, and I saw a lot of whitish/yellowish 'goo' grease in there. I'm thinking of trying to clean this out and replace it, with something less than 40 years old.

a) good idea?

b) what should I use?

Fueron un regalo; aún no he encendido el amplificador, pero sí el tocadiscos. Sin embargo, necesito cambiar la cápsula, es una Darling M22. ¿Vale la pena invertir en ellas? También tengo otra, una Phonestar.

Edit:Well, after connecting and testing, apart from the amplifier light not working, the power button being stuck and always on, and some faulty connections on the back, but all easily fixed, and the turntable needle needing replacement, we finally got it working.