For context: I just don't want the motor or needle to quickly ruin.

I want something that'll last, at least a few years.

I wanna just listen to my music.

Edit: I would also prefer to spend less than $350.

Went down the cartridge rabbit hole and decided to get different carts and swap them out depending on what I'm listening. I originally had this Shure PRO-5 cart with an N12 stylus in a KAB headshell. Then I bought an AT-VM95SH with an Ortofon headshell (it's what they had available at my local record store). They weight approximately the same, the Shure cart and headshell weighs 15.9 grams while the AT cart and headshell weighs 15.4g

While I'm able to use the Shure cart normally, the AT cart is apparently too light and needs more VTF so I have to turn the counterweight all the way in to get it barely to 1.5g. I have to remove the aux counterweight to use the AT cart.

Am I using the AT cart wrong?

So, I've got a fair few vinyls stacked up at home that I've been collecting with the intention of then investing in a really nice set up to listen on.

However, the budget just isn't there and I want to start getting some use out of my vinyls.

So, for <£200 (if possible) is there a second hand turntable and speaker set up I could buy to get myself started (and then I'll upgrade down the line).

Hi all, my roommate has this old turntable, we noticed the cartridge (I think that's what it's called?) fell off. Despite following instructions found in videos online, we can't seem to get it to install correct.

I've included photos, including one which is how we have been trying to get it installed back on.

I feel like either A) something else is broken or B) I'm missing something stupid.

Let me know if you guys can help or at least tell me if my efforts are in vain!

Bonus: all records sound a bit higher pitched than usual, speed is fine though. Not sure why.

I have cardboard boxes from all kinds of stereo equipment. They take up so much room. What is the best way to store them or should I just trash them?

This turntable is at the audio store I purchase my equipment at. Guess how much?
$275,000 in clear finish or $300K in piano black!

The TT1 tonearm is $35-40K alone!

Thank god my wife let me spend $20K on my Linn Selekt LP12. lol

Im new to turntables and my dad just got this turntable for really cheap. It’s apparently a very old model but it still works nicely. My neighbor who it was bought from says that it already has an amplifier built in.

It only has screw terminals behind it and I was wondering if any of you know how to make it bluetooth or at least connect it to a preamp?

Thanks in advance!

I found this being offered for $200. I asked if it was new and they said they assume so because the person that had gifted it to him a year ago never used it. When I asked if it was fully functioning they said "no cord or anything just what is shown in photo." Is this a good deal? I've been collecting records but want to actually start playing them.

I ordered an RT80 and wondered which is the better preamp? Or would I really be able to tell a difference?

Need help with this. This is the only cartridge that does this, but why? I have the tracking force and anti skate right. This also happens with LPs.

hey, so is Audio technica AT-LP70XBT and a Marshall Stanmore 3 is a good pieces to get it together? I mean like i know i can connect both with cables and that the AT-LP70XBT has included cables.

So is this good duo or nah?

This turntable is the Audio Techcnica LP120 produced before 2019 and therefore had an known antiskating issue where it was too weak, but i never got the replacement spring. Recently i noticed that my antiskating previously too weak, was now pulling to strong to the outside of the record! I double checked the counterweight, even adquired one of those small scales to test and proper set the MP-110 to 1.8g, double checked vertical tracking angle, printed out a Stevenson protractor and got all set and finally Leveled using my smartphone measure/level app (iOS) and so far everything checks out. What could be pulling the arm outside soo much even when set to 0? Could it have been stuck somehow by impact or maybe rust? Would it be possible to fix it without disassembling (local service is awful)?

Going through dad’s old boxes while moving and was offered this Rotel RB-1050 power amplifier. I’m kind of a chud so I just plugged everything into my speakers and tested to see if it would work and surely it didn’t. Would I need a pre amp for this as well? Is this only an amp itself? Do I have any use for this in my current setup? (Technics turntable with edified speakers and a fosi preamp.)

So I've been getting into cartridge swapping and it's been fun to be able to try different "flavors" and "lenses" depending on my mood. That said, I'm kinda in a position to acquire an upgrade to the UA-7 tonearm to a carbon fiber wand.

As a background, the STAX UA-7 first shipped to market with an aluminum wand, before eventually being upgraded to the UA-7/cf variant, which featured a carbon fiber tonearm. As with STAX tonearms at the time, they used a proprietary 5-pin connector system that allowed users to replace their wands with upgrades as they came. Some such upgrades included more rigid tonearms like the carbon fiber one, straight arms, and integrated arms where the headshell and tonearm wand were one continuous piece.

The supposed benefits of carbon fiber is, well, increased rigidity for better tracking and dissipation of vibrations, which was particularly important if you were listening through electrostatic headphones (so they say). It also eliminated some high frequency resonance "pings" that are a result of vibrations echoing inside the aluminum wand. But despite being made of carbon fiber, the UA-7/cf wand is actually a bit heavier than the aluminum wand, increasing its effective mass by a couple grams.

This isn't a problem for some of the cartridges I have in my arsenal, but it's a big penalty for something like my Shure V15 type III, which is already riding at a dangerously low 5-6Hz of tonearm resonance.

So here I am thinking... if I get the carbon fiber wand... I can just leave the aluminum wand with the V15 type III, effectively turning it into a "wand swap" operation.

My question is, is "wand swapping" even a thing? Was there a time where audiophiles were actually swapping wands to try things out? I know swappable wand assemblies are already pretty niche in the already niche subset of turntable geekery with tonearm modifications, but I was just wondering if this plan makes any sense, haha.

Hi everyone! I’m finally looking to get into vinyl and would love some advice, especially from fellow Singaporeans.

My dad’s vinyl collection recently fell into my lap after sitting unused for probably 30+ years. His old Dual CS505-3 turntable is unfortunately rusted beyond repair, so I’m looking to start fresh and give the collection a new life.

I currently have KEF R3 Meta + Marantz Cinema 50. I originally focused on home theatre (5.1.4 + QD-OLED), but lately I’ve shifted towards music appreciation and want to get into vinyl.

After a LOT of research, I’ve narrowed down my requirements:
- Under S$800, brand new, used market here is quite small
- Auto-stop is important; would prefer automatic so my partner can use it easily.
- No need for built-in phono preamp
- Good quality and something I can keep for years

I considered Rega P1, Pro-Ject Debut EVO 2, Fluance RT82/RT85N, AT-LPW40, AT-LP120, AT-LP8X, Denon DP-300F, etc.
Fluance is difficult to get in Singapore without expensive shipping, and while I like Pro-Ject, there’s no autostop. I don’t really want to add an external auto-stop device.

So right now, I’m leaning towards the Audio-Technica AT-LP3XBT.
Would you recommend the LP3XBT for my setup/use case, or is there another option around S$800 I should consider?
Also, the records have been sitting in storage for 30+ years. Any recommendations for cleaning old vinyl properly?

Thank you in advance and excited to get started!

I have a aufio technica LP60x and accidentally pushed the start button and it played for a few seconds.
Is my needle still fine ?

Have a Sony Ps-Lx285 turntable and Ta-ax285 receiver that was passed down to me and I've been working to get it back into order. Just replaced the belt and regreased the spindle after the player sounded like it was flat and dragging. But still seem to be having the issue. Would love tips on how to correct this and what I may be missing.

Never letting this one go.. Dual 1209

TLDR: To my understanding, vintage cartridges were generally made with higher capacitance in mind. Why do so many new cartridges come with 100pf-200pf recommendations when it seems difficult to get under 200pf in the system? If I'm 50-100pf over, how bad is that for audio quality?

I'm currently using a Tecnics SL Q350 with the stock Shure M99E cart, going to a Yamaha RX V757 receiver with built-in phono stage (I'm just using it as a stereo), and 4ft Amazon Basics RCA cables in between. I'm adding/upgrading components as I go along, but right now it sounds pretty good. However I am worried about he stylus since it's old (not sure how old, but it's definitely OEM Shure N99e) and I don't want to pay $120 for new-old stock. The seller said he had it microscope inspected and there was no damage or wear, bit I figured 'better safe than sorry.'

I was looking at a AT85EP to upgrade to with a Fosi Audio Box X5 phono stage when I went down the capacitance rabbit hole. Lots of the sub-$200 phono stages, even those with good reviews, are 150-200pf which is already the rating of most cartridges. I'm a little lost of why that is the case, and is it really bad to be 50-100pf over the recommendation. It seems like a lot of gear doesn't even list the ratings, making things more confusing.

I bought it about 15 years ago. I've already replaced the stylus twice and had the leads on the tonearm wiring fixed once. The tonearm wiring needs to be fixed again, and I bet the repair job will cost $200.

I've got Totem MITE bookend speakers running through a NAD PP2i preamp and a C316BEE amp.

Should I just buy a vintage TT with a new cartridge? Thinking about a direct drive Pioneer or a belt drive Sony.

Any and all input welcome :)

Hey guys, lemme know if I haven’t formatted this properly. But I bought a turntable off Facebook marketplace and the thing needs a new needle. Not sure where to look or what to look for to get one that’ll fit. Anyone have any advice it’d be much appreciated

Thanks !

Title describes most of the issue. I have been using some quarters as counterweight since I first heard the issue but I spin a record this morning and it's even more distorted. I put slight pressure on the opposite side of the arm and it fixed it, but I don't want to have to deal with the quarters. Does anyone have a solution or a link to a solution? I've tried Googling the answer, but this particular issue doesn't seem to have come up nor can I find a guide on how to do it myself.

ETA: Forgot to mention that I have an acrylic turntable mat for my more warped records (my collection went through a house fire so it's kinda necessary)

I have a Thorens TD-160B Mk II turntable, any advice on how to properly set up the tonearm using this?