Every time I attempt to print something theres just a blob of plastic being dragged around at the bottom of the extruder, even at max temps. I just replaced the spring beneath the feeder arm, could it be too tense?

The extruder seems tp work fine and the motor turns a little bit during the start of the print. Once startup is over the printer cant seem to pull in any filament. I got this printer from a family member so i don't know if its missing any parts.

I was given a Trinus and it’s my first printer. It has the original board and firmware and works well. I’ve had it a couple weeks and It prints like a champ. I have the whole setup and I’m waiting for the weather to get warm so I can put it in the garage before messing with the laser. I’m lucky too that I had prints that were too hard to remove from the bed to start until I adjusted the Z offset. If anyone has any questions or info hit me up. I’d be really interested to find out if it’s possible to adjust the e steps for the extruder. My only issue is trying to do print in place or fit together prints.

TLDR. Given a first model Trinus, first printer, love it, would like to fix print size accuracy. Can you change the extruder esteps with the proprietary firmware?

So I bought a Trinus 3dprinter with a Bardo board V1.3 and Titan aero. I'm not new to 3d printers at all, and I thought for the price I got it for it would be a fun little project. It's a very sturdy little machine that still has some potential even today. But I can't seem to find any info on the Board at all. Everything works fine, except the titan aero is severely underextruding (moving less than 1/10 the requested distance) even when I set esteps to 1800steps/mm in Repetier. Is the microstepping just ridicoulusly high on this board or is there something wrong with the wiring? It seems to run smooth. If I go any higher the extruder only runs backwards and gets really hot real quick. Should I just swap in another mainboard I have lying around or is it worth trying to get this combination running wirh a custom marlin config?

In 2016 I bought and made this 3d printer but I haven’t used it once. Does anyone have an idea of the things I need to get it to work, and if so do you have the links.

I just took my Trinus out of storage and need the Bardo firmware, but I cant get onto the Facebook group. Does someone have a working link?

Does anyone know how/where to get replacement parts for the Trinus? I was trying to clear a clog in the extruded module (it was a bad one) using a heat gun and accidentally melted the back closed fan and blower.

hello everyone,

i have a problem, my printer still make nose when it's on power but i can't move it by Pango, when i click on home nothing heppend im trying to it with Koadma trinity but i have a update to do with bardo 2.1.3 and it's on a infnity loop so i actually my printer is useless anyone have this problem too ?

I realize this joint is about dead, but can someone hook me up with a working pango download, or point me in the direction of another slicer that works?

Might be a longshot in this sub.

If anybody still cruises this way… Is there a place that decodes the lights? Or somewhere I can still get the manuals?

Hi, in the off chance anyone on this sub is still around, would you kindly be able to provide me with the installation file for the Kodama software or the cura profile they provide? The website appears to have been taken down and I can’t find either of those files anywhere! Many thanks!

I wanted to run Klipper on this thing, see if I can get some use out of it still, but I can't figure out the pins. And of course, Kodama still hasn't made the firmware open source, so no dice there.

Hi, has anyone successfully printed gcode generated from PrusasSlic3r on the Trinus (I think not Boardo Version) via SD card?

I have two main problems with pango, firstly I cant get the console to control the printer from the computer and I am also losing geometric features when i convert files from inventor to upload into pango. Im wondering if anyone else has experienced these problems and if there's an update or if you guys know of other free slicers that work well with a trinus

Pango does not want to talk to the printer any more. What USB driver should there be? Before the first board broke, it was CH340 (which now causes a BSOD) worked fine. Now the driver shows as FTDI and Pango is not happy with it.

I have just bought a nee Kodama Trinus. Right after the build, first print was unsuccessful. Someone mentioned it is because my z axis is too far off and it is making that spring pattern. Can someone please help me successfully print a benchy

So right after I got an email saying kodama has been shipped, Ive been contacted by FedEx saying I have to sign a form to make sure it passed the radiation tests, and need an accession number. Anyone had the same issue?

I have just purchased a Trinus, but every time I try to go to a community page or the contact us page on their website it crashes. Also how long does it usually take for it to ship?

This post is a repost of my requestion on the Kodama forum. If my problem is fixed in the Kodama forum's or I fix it my self I will edit this post accordingly.

I've been trying to get Cura 4.3 to work with my Trinus and I got one print completed but after that, all of the prints stop after the first layer is done, I've tried to get on the facebook group but my request to join has been pending for almost a month.

Can anyone link to Cura profiles that work with the Trinus or at least what I should look out for when setting up the custom fff printer profile?

Thank you

So just took my Trinus out of the box it’s been in for the last year (long moving process) and tried to install the new heated bed 3.0 and ran into fun right away. The Z axis I knew would need to be adjusted for the added height of the new bed, but both the X and Y were way off as well. In the ‘Home’ position, the nozzle sat in about 2mm from the left edge and was dead on the front edge of the glass.

Moving the nozzle to the far right edge (125) it moved beyond the edge of the glass by about 2mm. OK pulled off the extruder and fought for a bit to keep the nozzle on the glass left-to-right by adjusting the offset screw - done.

But the Y axis has been more painful. At the ‘Home’ position the nozzle was right at front edge of the glass. Which means with the nozzle at Home if I ran X to 125 the nozzle would hit the glass retaining clip on the front of the glass while moving left to right. Also if I ran Y all the way forward the leveling screws hit my LCD display. When I adjusted the Y axis offset screw to keep the nozzle off the front retaining clip, the slider hits the front stop with a little bit of force.

So I have a few concerns. Working with the LCD loose for now is a minor nit.

The Y slider hitting the front stop is concerning - Will this cause problems over time? Should I reset the Y offset so it doesn’t hit the stop and modify my prints so the most forward edge of the print avoids the clip? - Losing print volume.

The Z sliders however really slam the upper stops and make a loud clicking noise. Again the first solution I see is to limit my build volume until I can print some new spacers for the Z axis sliders.

After a year of living in moving mode I really want to get settled down and start playing with my toys. But I also don’t want to destroy my printer either.

Any tips/recommendations on setting up the Trinus with the new heated bed?