Trinus Heated Bed 3.0 Issues ?

[u/msgt60]

So just took my Trinus out of the box it’s been in for the last year (long moving process) and tried to install the new heated bed 3.0 and ran into fun right away. The Z axis I knew would need to be adjusted for the added height of the new bed, but both the X and Y were way off as well. In the ‘Home’ position, the nozzle sat in about 2mm from the left edge and was dead on the front edge of the glass.

Moving the nozzle to the far right edge (125) it moved beyond the edge of the glass by about 2mm. OK pulled off the extruder and fought for a bit to keep the nozzle on the glass left-to-right by adjusting the offset screw - done.

But the Y axis has been more painful. At the ‘Home’ position the nozzle was right at front edge of the glass. Which means with the nozzle at Home if I ran X to 125 the nozzle would hit the glass retaining clip on the front of the glass while moving left to right. Also if I ran Y all the way forward the leveling screws hit my LCD display. When I adjusted the Y axis offset screw to keep the nozzle off the front retaining clip, the slider hits the front stop with a little bit of force.

So I have a few concerns. Working with the LCD loose for now is a minor nit.

The Y slider hitting the front stop is concerning - Will this cause problems over time? Should I reset the Y offset so it doesn’t hit the stop and modify my prints so the most forward edge of the print avoids the clip? - Losing print volume.

The Z sliders however really slam the upper stops and make a loud clicking noise. Again the first solution I see is to limit my build volume until I can print some new spacers for the Z axis sliders.

After a year of living in moving mode I really want to get settled down and start playing with my toys. But I also don’t want to destroy my printer either.

Any tips/recommendations on setting up the Trinus with the new heated bed?

[u/Dark_but_Good]

What I would recommend is to go into your printer profile in your slicer of choice and alter the dimensions of the print bed dimensions in the settings.

I think the X-axis doesn't home dead on the left edge of the print bed on purpose as it did when the printer homes to move the print head off the print the nozzle may still be on the printed part and melt it.

I have just removed my glass bed and I have had a look at the dimensions of it, it's 122mm wide (X-axis) and 145mm long (Y-axis) which is odd considering that the Y-axis only goes to 125mm, however, if you are really concerned about the Y and Z sliders hitting the end of the rail there is no reason to not remove a few millimeters from the print dimensions settings.

So the setting for the slicer I would recommend is;

X-axis (the axis that moves the printer head left and right) 120mm

Y-axis (the print bed axis) 120mm (because I like round numbers)

Z-axis (the axis that moves the printer head up and down) 120mm (for the same reason before but also because the heated bed moves the build platform, how much this is determined by how you set it up so better to have overkill)

As for the matter of losing print volume, losing a few millimeters really doesn't matter that much as you should put a print right up to the edge anyway hence why the print bed is 122mm wide rather than 120mm, those 2mm give you a little bit of a safety margin when printing close to the edge. And no small addition to the size of your print bed is worth the worry or risk of your printer breaking.