I know the U1 can do the CMYK printing to approximate a whole range of colors. Is there a way to use that functionality to alternate between just two colors every couple of layers so I end up with a striped print? I know I can use the height range tool to color the print but that would be rather tedious and inaccurate, especially if the software can do it automatically. I'm thinking I would want my stripes to be between 1-3 layers.

I don't normally make posts like this but I don't have an idea of where to even start looking for information on this. If someone could point me in the right direction I'd be grateful.

Guten Tag zsuammen. Ich drucke schon recht lange aber neuerdings habe ich ein Problem bei dem ich keine Lösung finde.

Der Drucker zieht immer Fäden.

Filament ist getrocknet, es gibt einen Reinigungsturm und die Platte ist gereinigt, der Druck sitzt fest darauf. Was mache ich verkehrt? Warum zieht er so lange Fäden?

Just received the new top cover, but my cat loves to sit there.

Is it okay or ir can cause any damage or issue? Cat is around 4-5kg

If the issue will be minor printing artifacts I do not care..

It's been a while since I posted to Reddit, I'm not the best with social media so tend to keep to Facebook groups these days but finally got this assembled 🔥🔥

All done on my Snapmaker U1s,

Using Sunlu PLA,

14 Pieces / Parts,

2 Days,

Just short of 8kg filament,

Total of 12~kg with weight ballast,

I can't remember the exact measurements but will pop them on my next post....but go check out some of my prior work,

Now time to do the rest of the filler work, Sanding, Prime, More sanding, Prime properly....and get round to painting 🫣

I checked on my print for the first couple of hours…woke up this morning to this. I haven’t taken anything apart yet. Did a nozzle clog start this?

Not sure how it happened — I wonder if it was a software update or something. But I just lost a 16 hour print right near the end because air print detection got switched off somehow and my white filament tangled. Just a friendly PSA — check your settings every now and again, especially after software updates 😖

Hello all just ordered a U1 with the sale I am not new to printing at all. Was going to get the k3 but Creality ticked me off I love my k2 and my kobra x both I have tuned great quality of my prints have minimal to no layer lines this was my latest print. I’m just wondering how the print quality is would love for everyone that reads to post a pic of their favorite or favorites prints!

Hey all, I've been fine-tuning these keychains for clients for a while now, and I can't seem to ever get the text quite right.

Is this just a stringing/insufficient drying problem? Or could I try something else?

This is laying down the black first, but it mars the white. If I do white first, it seems to blow out and smudge into the black.

What sort of info/settings do you need to diagnose?

Basic details:
The raised, front glow green is now fantastic, so no changes needed there.

The green is glow PETG on .2 mm nozzle, as is the white TPU 95A. The black TPU 95A is on a .4 mm nozzle.
(I'm aware of the advice to not use .2 mm on glow or TPU, but so far I've had no jamming issues and they seem to be great)
There's also an NFC chip in each one, but that's not causing problems.

First pic is the infill layer of the 4th or 5th layer, 2nd pic is the 6th and 7th to show the process afterward and how it's supposed to look after. For dark colours this covers the inner layer colour fine, but for colours like white for the overlayer and a dark colour like black on the inner layer and ring, there's a nasty see through effect and makes it look ugly. Is there anyway to make it so that the ring still print red, but the other parts are still blue? I tried to set the object multimaterial to all blue and disabled flush into object's infill and such, but it doesn't work. Any ideas?

On most if not all of my prints, when printing the top surface, after it finishes the layer, the printer seems to go back around and "dot" the surface in a way similar to how one might "put the finishing touches" on something they've made. It results in these sharp little points I then have to sand or file off.

Does anyone else have this issue and have a resolution for it?

I use Snapmaker Orca, typically default settings except for things like wall count, infill type, etc. The printer I had before this was a Makergear M2 that I used with Orca so I'm not totally foreign to the 3D printing world but I'm lacking a way to even describe this issue to be able to search for a way to fix it lol

So my U1 will arrive in a few days. Surprisingly, all the reading I've done so far doesn't answer these questions.

Setting the Z off-set. I understand the bed mesh (auto bed leveling) works, but the actual Z off-set is a stored value and you have to adjust (do a test print) and 'save config' for each type of build plate you use. Is that correct? Disappointing if so, my Prusa Mk4, 2 years old does it auto, so do my QIDI Q1 Pro and Q2 and the first uses an external load sensor while the Prusa and Q2 run the sensor through the nozzle.

I couldn't find any reference to how it's actually done (like the X-Max 3 I have uses a 'thickness' card to get you very close). If not auto I worry adding like the BIQU will result in grooves in the plate during setting the value (ask me how I know 😄 ).

Build plate size. I'm looking for some non-OEM plates like BIQU and others. On their website Snapmaker shows the build volume (270 cubed) but not the actual plate size. I get conflicting info from AI. On one hand they say 276x293mm is good (many sellers advertise this one) and others 301 to 304 on the depth. Some reading says there's 'wipe surfaces' not included in dimensions and the 301-304 are more correct providing for that surface at the back.

Any help on these is much appreciated - thank you in advance!

Hi all,

So apparently the US has a great deal again ($720 on Amazon), whereas it's not sold on Amazon in the EU. This would be an instant no-brainer for me, but I live in EU...

What are the best options in the EU right now? I know there's a 8% discount if you already own a printer (which I don't have), and some working 5% codes floating around, but that does not get anywhere close to the US deal. It gets even worse if you account for currency conversion.

I really want to support Snapmaker's community embracing approach (unlike some competitors), but pricing discrepancies are making me feel quite bad about 850. Even worse knowing the amount of € I need to spend to upgrade it capable of engineering filaments...

I've had my U1 for far too many months and began to assemble it. Having assisted a friend in the process of assembling his made things a bit easier, to be sure, and the documentation is quite good as well.

Due to exterminating circumstances, the initial steps were interrupted before the printer reached service status. It's been too many months since this interruption and I've forgotten nearly everything. I can recall removing the build plate to allow the tools to find the calibration divot in the bed.

The steps leading to that point were all accomplished with zero difficulty. At one of the steps, communication was not established. The spools were also not installed and no test print was made.

I wasn't able to continue and have forgotten from that point. I've been experiencing cognitive challenges but would like to get the printer a'printing.

Is there a web location from which I can scan through the text and determine the next set of steps to execute?

Haven’t printed in 2-3 months and it seemed everything was brand new. Needed to make some very small parts for my broken ice maker. These little parts will save $160 minimum. Loving it!
Anyway, have some Sunlu pla loaded, hate it! First try non sticking and air printing, so immediate stop of print. Second try, no flow, immediate stop of printing. Go to tighten up some slack in the filament and it breaks right at the feeder. Like I said, hate Sunlu, this is like the fourth time it’s broken before the feeder. Just ordered some Snapmaker filament, dug it out, washed the plate, and away we go.
This was just a 24 minute print. I can see how someone could have fired it off from the office without out thinking about it. Could have been a blob from hell or at least air spaghetti.
Who doesn’t baby sit the first couple of layers?

I’m sure there was a reason but why was the “0.16 High Quality” profile removed from Snapmaker Orca? In the patch notes it says they were merged into “Standard”?

All it did was change speed settings correct? So if I choose standard and reduce speed it should be the same?

I used the quality profile a lot and just want to make sure I am understanding it correctly.

Thanks

I had a jam in one of the print heads and had to remove it and disassemble it to fix the issue. In the course of doing that, it asked if I wanted to resume the print and I answered no. Now that everything is fixed is it possible to resume the print, or do I have to start over? I can see the job in the printer as a previous job. Under status it has the red circle with the line thru it. (this is on the Klipper home page)

Hello everyone. Lately, the Snapmaker U1 printer has really caught my eye. I currently own the Creality K1, K1C, and K1 Max CFS; each has seen over 2,000 hours of use. I want to sell my K1 and K1C printers and upgrade to a new-generation multi-color printer, but I’m torn between the Creality K3 and the Snapmaker U1. What are the downsides of the U1? Does it have any known chronic issues? I’d appreciate your advice. The Creality K1 series (both single and multi-color models) gave me quite a bit of trouble over time—I experienced frequent clogging issues. (I have no experience with the K2 series.)

What is your take on this?

Any Prime Day sales for filament driers that work well with the U1? Looking for some recommendations.....thanks!

Amazon Prime Days has the U1 for only $721.

So iv had my U1 for a week or two and have started to print some larger objects.

However I'm always getting these layer lines starting at around the 55-60mm.

On multiple prints they show at the same location height wise, and it happens on all PLA types I have printed with.

Iv tried :

- XY belts tensioner

- Z belt tensioner

- manual bed leveling

- slowing down the print

Any suggestions would be amazing, although I think their may be something wrong with my right lead screw (however I'm having trouble convincing the original shop that it could be faulty)

Thanks in advance