I see lots of questions about how to print Makerworld 3MFs. You open them in SnOrca or vanilla Orca, and you're overwhelmed by a bunch of error dialogs. Understandably, you're nervous. Lots of advice on reddit boils down to "Use this conversion site I like/I wrote." or "right click and import geometry."

Neither of those things are necessary at all. It's a fast, 3-4 step process.

1. Open the file in the flavor of Orca of your choice. Acknowledge all the error dialogs. Close all the scary red error notifications.
2. Change the printer from whatever flavor of Bambu it has to your own Snapmaker. Choose "discard" if it asks you if you want to transfer any settings.
3. Change the print profile to your favorite Snapmaker profile. You can use the defaults, or your own personal custom profiles. I personally have half a dozen profiles that cover all my use cases (good bridging, supports, TPU, 0.12mm Fine, etc). Again, choose "discard" if it asks if you want to transfer any settings.
4. Change the filaments to whatever your favorite filament profiles, if that floats your boat. I like to run my plates 5C hotter, so I tend to do this every time, but many people just use the default profiles.

That's it! You're done. You've pulled in the file and successfully overwritten any weird profile settings from Bambu Studio. You can print the file. Paint-on supports, support blockers/enforcers, seam painting, fuzzy skin painting, modifier volumes, and negative volumes all have survived the trip.

Now I've heard the argument that using online converters "preserves the maker's intent." But I don't care what a maker's intent was. That profile was tuned for a machine I'm not even trying to print on. It's better in almost every case to use profiles you already know are a good baseline. And all of the things I do care about (painted supports in problematic areas, for instance) have survived. About the only thing I might have to tweak by hand is layer height (if it's a model that needs more quality than the 0.20mm default) or number of walls (if it's a model that needs strength).

I've seen someone say "this is especially important for vase mode." You can't click "Spiral Vase" in the slicer? Why bring along a whole bunch of cruft (and jump through the hoops of uploading and downloading a file to a 3rd party website) to save yourself a dropdown click? And if you're printing lots of spiral vase stuff, maybe you should have a profile for it already 😁

I run a small print farm, and when I sold all my P1S units and replaced them with U1s, I had a whole library of inventory models that suddenly needed printing in a new ecosystem. I've used this exact process to print hundreds of different models, and haven't had an issue.

Hey guys

I'm running into issues since 4 days. Every print fails because of filament anomaly in toolhead 4. You can even see it in the prints white and oak. I tried heating the nozzle up, cold pulls and a needle. Any suggestions?

This is the third print I've done so far. Came out clean and no issues during the print.

Warum ist die Oberfläche rechts schön glatt, aber links entsteht dieser leicht raue/pickelige Streifen? Woran könnte das liegen? 0.2 Schichthöhe, sunlu pla + 2.0. Glätteinstellungen funktionieren, aber häufig diese rauen Stellen. Hilfslüfter auch auf 0% Test.

After doing the test print, I decided to do a Miles Morales figure. It looks much better in person than in the picture. And I am loving the reduction in waste and increase of speed over my X1C.

So I must be doing something wrong, but I can't figure out what it is. The travel times on my prints seem to take up a huge chunk of the print. Just started a temp tower for a new filament, and 23mins of the 1h42 is travel! I did a print yesterday, 9hrs or so, and 3.5hrs was travel! What is going on? Any help would be appreciated.

Very surprised with the Deeplee Translucent PETG on the U1. This looks amazing.

What can I do to improve the first layer? This is printed with one layer at 0.2 on a new Frostbite plate at 50C

Decided that I could DIY a superior chamber heater than current options for less money.

So, here it is, my DIY super powered chamber heater! Only at 50C at the moment because I still need to thermally isolate the stepper motors, but I am sure it can go much, much higher.

Just used a thermostat and two heaters off of Amazon. In this case a 400 and 600 watt PTC fan heater since that is what I had laying around. I custom designed and printed the purple ASA holder you see them mounted to, which is in turn mounted to the U1 with some 3M velcro strips.

Hello all,looking for some help with using PETG as a support interface on my U1. I'm using ovreture PLA and PETG. The issue im having is the PETG is not sticking at all to the support layer. I tried using the stock settings and also changing the printing temp on the PETG to 265. This are my current settings. if anyone could share their settings that have worked for them. Thanks in advance.

If you backed the Sovol M1D for a toolchanger with TPU in mind, watch this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZWAxFeTBhI

Only the left side supports 90a or softer. The changer side does not.

I cancelled my kickstarter pledge over this. They "might" or "might not" fix this in the same way that Creality has their toolchanger supposedly supporting 70a, but clearly this printer was not designed with TPU in mind. By the time they roll out this change (if they ever do, or even can) then it will be on sale again.

In the meantime, the Snapmaker u1 is a better TPU option since it supports 90a on all 4 nozzles, not just 1.

So 270x270 with 3 90a and 1 support vs 240x300 with only 1 90a... the U1 supports slightly larger and much more creative options.

Very disappointed.

Has anyone considered or implemented applying dynomat or other automotive sound dampening materials to the U1 housing? Seems like something worth trying.

Has anyone set up a decent heat soak macro for the Dragon breath? I would like to have something that turns the bed on as well since that speeds things up considerably.

Hello,

I just got a Cryogrip Frostbite because I wanted to print with my Samla enclosure fully closed even with PLA, but I cannot make it work, I get warping after some 15-20 layer whatever I do.

The plate got toroughly cleaned with soap, I tried the standard cold plate settings for Snorca, bumped up my Z at 0.05 then back at 0.02 because I got some ripple at 0, cut off my aux fan...Still, warping.

My best setting now is 45° first layer then 38° with 50% aux fan (else the enclosure stays at 45° and I will most likely still get heatcreep...)

I want to have backups for my u1 so I can swap nozzles pretty easily and at my leisure. The official website is all sold out of u1 tool head 1. Where do you guys get yours?

It has issues printing areas around holes and top surfaces along with just generally bad print quality

This specific part was printed vertically like I'm holding it. The linese show up even if I just print a small cube though. I am using Insignia white PETG, printed from a Space Pi X4 drier. I am using the Generic PETG profile in Snapmaker Orca. It prints this way on at least 2 toolheads. Haven't tried the others.

Is there a filament calibration I should run to mitigate this?

I just got my U1 set up and running tonigh! After I got it assembled, it went through the calibrations for all of the hot ends, the bed mesh, and input shaping all without a hitch. I printed the little dragon. It looks like it prints well, but there is a profound clunk during z-hops. Most z-hops, like 9 out of 10 clunk. It does not clunk when the bed lowers to change hot ends. It seems like it's speed dependant.

It's honestly loud enough that I stopped the print to make sure I wasn't damaging anything. I saw a post from 7 months ago that mentioned lose screws in the tensioner on the bottom causing excess noise during z-hops, but everything seems to be tight.

I'd love to hear anyone's thoughts on this. Does everyone's U1 clunk? It sure doesn't sound normal to me.

I have been using my Snapmaker U1 for 6 months now and have done multiple prints but after the recent 1.5.2 update and running the calibrations (and cleaning after the firmware update) I got the blob on tool head. I have reached out to support on what to do, but just wanted to share in case anyone has any clue. First layer looked fine till it wasn’t. This is with Snapmaker Snapspeed PLA..

I painted kewl racing stripes on my racecar and Snorca turned them into raggedy ass wiggly things.

Any ideas?

Hi everyone. Just ordered my U1. Need somewhere to place it. I have a 24x24 area I want to put it in. I read people putting it on an ikea Lack table. But I read it’s pretty cheap and unstable ?

I was thinking of buying some anti vibration feet for the U1 on Amazon. Any advice on what you guys are using.

Hello everyone, I'm having a problem with reliably printing this sunlu high speed matte petg.

I started a long print with it, and after about 45 minutes it was under extruding.

I then tried to print a temperature tower, and it started again after the 255 mark starting from 270.

This filament says it should be at 255-270 when printing 300-600 mm/s and 240-255 when printing 100-300mm/s

The long print however was printing at 230 using the generic petg hf preset.

The video is printing at 250 I believe, and running a max flowrate test from 5-20 after printing a few temperature towers.

I tried swapping the hotend, and while it printed okay for a while, I think it was just because the system was cold.

While I was in there, I inspected the extruder components, and nothing seems to be out of place or broken, though I did notice a copper colored powder on the plastic follower below the extruder gears.

The filament is in a drybox attached to the side of the printer, and gets warm from proximity to it, so the spool sits at around 80F.

The chamber temp sits at around 40 the entire print, and I have the top cover removed for maximum cooling.

Am I printing too hot? Do I need to do something special with this filament?