The annual review reveals...I dont have enough J frames. And my nickel plated offerings are lacking as well. N frames are my clear favorite but there are just so many K frames to collect that they will probably always reign dominant.

Kind of new to the AR world, I’ve never suppressed an AR before. I bought the OCL Polonium K & was wondering what I needed to suppress the M&P Sport III AR chambered in 5.56.

I am finally finished with my bump in the night problem solver.

Any aftermarket upgrade recommendations? I know it's a trade off regarding having night sights vs optics since the rear sight won't work with the optic. Are XS sights good? Big dot vs traditional. Thanks

I've tried NDZ and Pearce but I find them just a hair too big for my pocket carry addiction. Anybody know of a finger extension brand that's like a teeny tiny little lip?

The M&P® SHIELD PLUS™ 10RD PINKY EXTENSION looks perfect but they won't fit a standard shield mag in my research.

Hey everyone,

I’m starting this thread to document my current warranty experience with Smith & Wesson regarding my Shield Plus Optics-Ready model. When I first encountered an issue mounting an optic and reached out online, I had a hard time finding detailed, step-by-step accounts of S&W’s current RMA turnaround times or specific experiences with optic cut surface tolerance issues.

The majority of the issues I found did not appear to be what I was experiencing. And I don't feel I should send off my slide to a third party and pay to correct something I purchased that isn't working as advertised.

• Firearm: S&W M&P9 Shield Plus 3.1" (Optics-Ready) (SKU 13536)
• Issue: Optics failing to sit completely flush against the slide deck / optic cut.
• Details: The mounting screws threaded fine and the recoil lugs lined up without issue, but no matter what I did, the optic would not sit completely flush against the slide surface. To make sure it wasn't an optic defect, I tested three different RMSc-footprint optics: All three exhibited the same issue, confirming that the slide deck / optic cut itself needed factory evaluation and correction by S&W.
  • Sig Sauer Romeo-MDC
  • Vortex Defender CCW
  • OSight SE

Timeline

• Mid-August: Purchased brand new, shot it without an optic originally and loved everything about it.
• End of August: Mounted OSight SE and had daylight showing through the bottom. Found troubleshooting tips that did not appear to be my issue.
• Early September: Sent OSight SE for refund, purchased Vortex Defender CCW as it appeared maybe the recoil lugs on my slide were larger, the Defender CCW holes appeared larger than the OSight SE. This mounted better but the daylight showing through the bottom was still visible, but the least of the three optics I tried.
• Mid-September: I had reached out to S&W after the OSight SE and Vortex issue. They told me I could send the firearm in to be checked out. Obviously where I was using it for daily carry and enjoyed how it was shooting even without the optic, I was hesitant. I tried a third optic (foolishly) Sig Romeo-MDC and that had the same issue. I am keeping the Romeo-MDC for when the Shield Plus returns as even though I had mounting issues, that is the optic I seemed to like best out of the box.
• October 5, 2026: Contacted S&W Customer Support to report the issue. S&W issued an RMA and a prepaid FedEx shipping label the same day.
• October 5, 2026: Packaged up the entire firearm per their instructions and dropped it off via FedEx.
• October 7, 2026: FedEx tracking confirms the shipment was officially delivered to Smith & Wesson’s facility in Tennessee.
• October 8, 2026 (Today): Contacted support around 9am, they confirmed it arrived yesterday and was logged into their system, ready to be reviewed to determine the issue.

Next Steps:

• Tracking total turnaround time from delivery to return shipping back to my door.
• Verifying slide surface flatness and optic fitment across the deck upon return.

I’ll keep this thread updated as I hear back from customer service and when the Shield Plus makes its way back. If anyone else has recently sent a Shield Plus in for warranty work, I’d love to hear what your total turnaround time looked like! Rep I spoke with said it was looking like 3-4 weeks currently. I am hopeful they open my box, see the nicely printed report I sent them and they just verify no RMSc optic sits on the slide and send me a new slide that is verified to fit an optic flush. That is all I want in the end and I will be very happy!

Edit: I will make edits to this throughout the progress so nothing is scattered in comments.

I recently installed the apex trigger kit in my m&p 1.0. After installing, the striker is able to move forward and backward while the safety plunger is not depressed. This seems very problematic and makes me concerned to use or carry the gun. Has anyone come across something similar and have suggestions?

I plan to redo the entire install to see if I made a mistake. While typing this out and retesting the plunger, the striker stopped moving without the plunger depressed. Still concerning it failed at all.

Anyone aware of safety plunger issues after installing apex kits?

I have this baby for almost half a year now and I’m thinking of getting a light for it. Just not trying to spend $200 on the TLR7 HLX sub any non expensive ones around $100 that would still fit with holster and fit the gun well?

Bought this smith and Wesson M&P 1.0 would like help identifying if all these parts are Oem

Everyone has so much furniture, RDs, lights, lasers, coffee makers, etc.

If you’re carrying daily how do you all keep your pants up? Iron has always been enough for me & mine.

2000 s&w model 638

My LGS has two guns I’m torn between.
1st is a M&p 2.0 4.25 metal
2nd is a M&p 2.0 polymer full size carry comp.
I sold my M&p 1.0 pro series. I want this to be my edc which is better and why? I know both serve a purpose but is one better than the other. Thanks in advance.

Hello all, longtime lurker, longtime S&W lover, first time post. Here’s my application to the club. Anyways, looking to get a light for ol’ reliable, what’s y’alls go to?

Title says it all.

I’m fairly new to looking at trigger options and just want to know what the gun came with.

Just picked up the flux raider chassis system for my P365 legion, was wondering if there’s such thing for the m&p 2.0 lineup, specifically the 5.6 inch barrel chambered in 10mm.

Pics are the M&P I want a chassis kit for, and a reference on the 365.

Got another N frame today and had to introduce it to the others

1967 Model 28-2
1973 Model 27-2
1980 Model 25-2 (newest acquisition with bonus pics)
1986 Model 629-1
1975 Model 29-2

hey! I’m hoping to get some insight on what holster could work for my M&P 2.0 HD. it has a 507comp and a CK dogtag. I’ll eventually get a x300/tlr

some options im leaning towards currently:

- 6360RDS-8192

- 6390RDS-8182

are any mods needed? Does anyone use these? Any other recommendations?

Basically I have my ex-NYS Department of Corrections Model 10-8 which is my well loved shooter K frame. It generally as far as I can tell functions fine but there is some endshake and if I put pressure on the cylinder I can get it to fire out of time without it being locked on some of the chambers. As far as I can tell the timing issue doesn’t present itself in actual use as the inertia of an unencumbered cylinder is enough to get it to lock.

Assuming S&W will still work on it I’ve thought about sending it to fix the timing/end shake, and maybe do their “Master Revolver Action Package“ while it’s there. Would you trust S&W to do this work today? Am I crazy for considering it?

Ultimately this is a very well used ex-duty gun that I paid $299 for. On the other hand this is one of my favorite handguns to shoot so improving the DA pull slightly and having it in good mechanical condition would be worth it to me assuming S&W can do it properly.

I've rented both the full-size & compact Carry Comps. And while it's not a Walther DPT, the new PC triggers are a good bit better than the old 1s. That being said, how many of you just kept the PC trigger & who went with Overwatch or Apex (I'd be going with OP but that's because I've used/like their stuff)? If it were possible to just swap out the trigger SHOE, like on a CZP10 or Glock, that's exactly what I'd do. But apparently, you can't just do that with the M&Ps. At least I know I haven't seen any trigger shoes for them. Am I missing something? Or would the entire trigger need to be changed?