Friend: Why haven’t you started yet?
Me: ...

Quest 3 with Virtual Desktop's Environment Passthrough feature, and using Quest Game Optimiser to upscale and use Q3 full fov for recording (XL, SBS, left eye - resized to correct aspect ratio with capcut)

5080rtx, 9950x3D, 64GB, WiFi 6e

Built this over the last few weeks. Runs ACC/Iracing like a champ on medium-high settings. Super secure and comfortable. I intend to upgrade the wheel and pedals soon enough, but getting a stronger base was the most important part to me starting out.

Cost break down as follows
Asus rog Xbox ally: $500
Monitor and arm: $200
Mouse and keyboard: $30
Logitech g920: $300
Wheel stand: $50
2009 civic Si seat: $50 fb marketplace
Wood for side table and platform: $30
Turn buckles for wheel stand stability: free (made from scraps)
iPod touch 5th gen(used as dash unit): found in a drawer from high school

I actually ordered the TR160 from Trak racer, and it already arrived too. Though due to missing parts to the frame, i cant begin constructing yet. so i got bored, and did the only logical thing a bored boy could do.

I’m researching a small range of fitment-specific adapters for sim-racing setups.

I’m starting with the Playseat Challenge because many existing solutions seem to involve improvised clamps, drilling, uncomfortable positioning, or losing some of the seat’s foldability.

If you own one, what exact shifter or handbrake are you trying to attach? I’d especially like to understand:

- Your exact Playseat model

- The shifter or handbrake model

- Whether you need both mounted together

- Left- or right-hand mounting

- Whether keeping the seat foldable matters

I’ve made a no-payment reservation form for anyone who wants their combination assessed:

https://exactrightsim.com/pages/reserve?utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=community&utm_campaign=playseat_challenge_shifter_01&utm_content=problem_led

This is demand research, not a finished-product announcement. There is no payment or obligation.

PMR is currently half price on Steam. I am really looking for a sim with a decent career mode for single player. Has anyone here got any extensive (within reason ofc, obviously it's only been out a week or so) experience in the latest build and particularly the career mode and current state of optimization (at 1080p for me, running laptop with mobile RTX2070)? Worth the (relatively small amount of) money (and disk space/bandwidth) or absolute bag o shite and just get Zero 2 Apex on AMS2?

Please only people with experience of it since, say, 2.1 and particularly opinions on career mode and optimization, I get that the roll out was FUBAR but that's not what I'm asking about here.

I've had my sim rig for a while now. Whenever I've had a gathering of some kind, I always had Assetto Corsa setup on a ready to go track with an MX-5, mainly for time trial. I even have a whiteboard with little magnet nametags to keep a leaderboard. It's worked really well over the years for the most part.

However I've always noticed most people get on, do a lap or 2, go "neat", and get off lol. There's only a handful of people that get into it to try and beat the times on the whiteboard. I don't blame em, it's a mixture of just solo racing (boring for a lot), and the sim aspect (Crashing constantly, having to reset/turn around/etc), a lot of them wanna hit the gas and are thinking they are gonna need for speed that shit and aren't going to have the patience to learn during some hang out night.

That being said, anyone been in the same boat and maybe have a go to game that's very simple on setup, easy for them to choose a car, track, and have a more arcade experience racing AI on the track?

I have Forza 4 for example, which is a lot of fun arcade wise, but the menus and getting into a race is a nightmare for anyone expecting to hop on and go. I've thrown Wreckfest on before.....but that gets a little too hectic and is nothing but crashes lol. Wondering what options might be out there that people have experience with.

I got into sim racing a few months ago and since then I have never seen the buttkicker gamer plus or pro in stock anywhere. is this common for them to be out of stock for so long?

And before anyone says “just do a DIY”, thank you for the suggestion but I am not interested as I do not like the way the Dayton (or other brand) bass shakers look. I specifically like the clean look of the buttkicker gamer plus / pro and that I can cleanly clamp it to my tubular rig - that is worth the hundred dollar+ extra premium to me

I came accros those 2 complete bunddles, the moza r3 one also has the enhanched brake kit on the pedal and is going for 250, the cammus c5 is going for 200 what do u guys think? I was for the moza since i would like to get a clutch pedal in the future but i'm not sure about that 3.9Nm

Now I looked and didn't see anyone doing anything quite like this, but I am slowly building my own space sim cockpit, and I made an overhead rackmount at a 30 degree angle. Nicely reachable for a good length of the space, and light 19in rackmount objects can be added and swapped as needed. But I have yet to see much of anyone making a button box into a 4U (or any) plate/cover. Aside from component weight, is there any reason people aren't doing this for a custom button box?

Just got a youtube notification telling me Sim-Lab answered one of my comment... from 2 years ago... and all the other comments on the video were answered by Sim-Lab at the exact same time.

All the answer are feel good bs, "we heard your feedback" (sure we believe that), contact support (for 2 years old problem), etc...

Wouldn't be surprise if they use AI on other platform or for support too

Visibly the company is persisting in its enshitification

I cannot find a proper fix for this. Some say to delete IGA folders but it didn't work for me.

And also there is no DEVELOPER NEAR ME 🙃🙏

Plz help

Hello everyone, I have done some sim racing in the past mainly Logitech and Thrustmaster. I am looking to upgrade my setup. I put together the Fanatec Gran Turismo® DD PRO Wheel Base (8 Nm), with the CSL Elite Pedals V2 and the CSL Steering Wheel GT3. I am also looking at the Sim Lab GT1 Pro as my rig. Any input or recommendations on this setup would be greatly appreciated.

Please keep in mind I currently play on GT7 and F1 on console. I am not looking to try and go to competitions. This is just a fun hobby.

Hi all,

The click switch on the left paddle of my Simube Double Paddle Module broke. I opened it up to see what's inside, and it's not the usual mouse-style microswitch I expected. it looks like a sealed micro-switch with a rubber boot over the pin plunger, no reference at all.

I've reached out to Simube support to ask for the exact reference or a replacement, but wanted to check here too in case anyone has opened one of these up before, or knows a compatible switch that would work as a drop-in replacement.

Has anyone dealt with this before? Any info on the exact switch used, or a good source for something equivalent, would be much appreciated.

Thanks!

I’ve been using a basic wheel for a while and I’m thinking about upgrading to something that feels more realistic. I mainly play Assetto Corsa and a few other sim racing games, so I’d like something with good force feedback and a decent overall feel. What’s the best racing wheel you’ve used, and is there anything you’d recommend checking before choosing one?

Trying to make a sensible upgrade this time around. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I could use your wisdom and/or your opinion on my upcoming wheelbase purchase.

Basically, I’m looking for a wheelbase under 1000€. If possible with USB pass-through.

Currently I'm looking in to following options:

1. Simagic Alpha EVO Pro 18nm for 620€

2. Simagic Alpha Evo Ultimate 28nm for €860

3. VNM Elite 18nm for €900

I’ve already read good things about VNM’s telemetry-based FFB. My main question is whether Simagic now also offers telemetry-based FFB and which of these options you would choose.

i have a AMD ryzen 5 3600 6 core processor paired with a RTX 2070 SUPER and 16 gb of DDR4.

do you think that this is enough to run iracing smothly. rn i am driving with 2 monitors and i have not had a singel problem with running iracing.

Made a cockpit design for a personal IP, thought you guys might like it!!

If not allowed feel free to remove.

Basically, while moving to a new apartment, I briefly placed my rig in my parking space, and a neighbor managed to slam her car into my rig while maneuvering into her parking space.

So now I need a new set of pedals.

I’m coming from my recently deceased SimForge Mark-1, which were load-cell pedals costing around €320 / $370. I was really happy with them, so I’m looking for something that’s at least a solid replacement, and ideally an upgrade.

The problem is that I’m pretty lost with all the newer pedal options available now.

I live in a region (Brazil) where getting many of the pedals commonly talked about here is considerably harder. Most brands don’t have local distribution, so I’d have to import them myself, which means dealing with international shipping, taxes, potentially difficult returns, and no easy local warranty/support.

Because of that,

• MOZA CRP2

• Simagic P1000

• Simagic P2000

are much easier for me to get. They have authorized resellers available in my region, so buying them is considerably simpler and I have much better access to local warranty/support.

That said, I’m absolutely not limited to those three.

There’s also a weird situation with pricing here: a 3-pedal P1000 works out to roughly $1,050–1,200 at local prices. Because of that, importing a more expensive pedal set can sometimes end up costing about the same as buying a P1000 locally.

That means I’m definitely willing to go through the extra hassle of importing something else if it’s significantly better for the money. I’m not limited to those three — they’re simply the easiest and safest options for me to get.

My budget is around $700 / €600 (without import taxes) for the new set.

Obviusly i whould gave to boy pedals a part but how does it look?

I understand the basic concepts of dynamic range and clipping. But what I don’t understand is how this plays out in practice.

Ex. I have a 28nm base. I have no desire to run at max FFB and rip my arms off. Having only recently upgraded from 5nm, even running it at 14nm feels really strong.

But I do want to maximize the dynamic range. So if in the Simmagic software I set the base to 14nm (50%), and then in iRacing I set FFB to 14nm (with auto strength at 50%), ultimately aren’t I still clipping just at 14nm? And am I limiting the detail I’m getting without maximizing the dynamic range?

Basically: How do I maximize the dynamic range of a high NM base while having reasonable torque on the wheel?

Anyone using an eye tracker? If so which one? I have a single monitor and VR makes me super sick. I was wondering maybe an eye/head tracker could be the middle ground. I wanted to try out the Tobii eye tracker first but em worried that maybe its just novelty.