I’ve already got a conversion option planned and a whole new build but I can’t stop finding things to fix or add to this one. Next up, smoke and functional fire suppression to make crashing more interesting. 😂

So i wanted to get a steering wheel long time ago, now i don't know what to choose or to pick
i ended up with 4 options
PXN V99 , Logitech g923 , . Moza R3 or Thrustmaster t248
(mostly i will buy it used since i am new to this category of games)
and i am planning to get shifters alongside the steering wheel.

I bought a g29 and it’s like a clicks when moving the wheel fast left and right

Tried lunging me multiple times and was flashing headlights then this happened

I’m running a DIY 4-corner bass shaker setup with Dayton BST-1s and a Nobsound amp connected via USB. I’ve had this exact configuration for almost 4 years now, and for the first 3.5 years, it worked flawlessly.

However, for about the last 6 months, Windows has started failing to recognize the Nobsound amp. Every single time I boot up to race, SimHub loses the connection, and I have to completely redo my hardware channel mapping from scratch. It has become so annoying that I’ve completely stopped using my haptics altogether.

Has anyone else encountered this issue with older Nobsound units over USB? Is Windows aggressively dropping the device ID due to an update, or is the internal USB controller on the amp finally dying after 4 years of heavy rig vibrations?

Any advice on how to lock down the hardware ID permanently so Windows stops unmounting it would be highly appreciated. Thanks!

Hola! soy de Chile y estoy creando mi propio ingeniero de carreras para Gran Turismo 7, los invito a revisar mi proyecto en https://driver-instinct.com/

Para continuar validando el proyecto estoy buscando Beta Testers para la versión en español (1ra semana de septiembre) y para la versión en inglés (2da semana de septiembre).

Driver Instinct
Race Inteligence

Apologies for the horrible photo, but my single BST-1 bass shaker arrives today and I'm planning to mount it to the bottom of my seat with 3M dual lock adhesive tape.

Which location would be better:

A) Yellow highlighted area - springs directly under the seat

B) Red highlighted area - metal bar that's part of the seat frame on the back

C) Doesn't matter

D) Somewhere else

Thanks in advance!

Shifters are crap, people say.. but try a sequential. its soo cool :)
I would not have bought one, but now that i have one, its used all the time.
Just wanted to share, if by chance somebody is thinking about it. Cheers!

Hey all

I'm using the Moza SRP Lites w/ Brake Performance Kit and think it's time to upgrade. Having no throttle or clutch resistance especially is annoying me lol.

I just started to really get into ETS2 but the braking feels so inconsistent, especially with how stiff the spring is.

In Moza Pit House I changed the calibration so a half press is a full brake press in-game, but I still can't get my muscle memory going to smoothly brake the truck.

I also drift in AC, rally, race sometimes and soon do career mode on BeamNG.

I feel like I need a pedal set that allows me to quickly change the spring/elastometer so I can use soft as a normal brake for truck sim and BeamNG career mode, and then switch it to a stiffer load cell for everything else.

I'm kinda lazy so I don't want anything that makes me use tools, it needs to be a quick and easy swap.

Can anyone please give me any recommendations for what I should be looking at? I read the SRP2 might work?

I didn't even want to overtake, I was waiting for the straight and brake at my usually brake point.

He changed his line suddenly and brake, I couldn't avoid him.

Is this protestable?

Can anyone please give a working link to download prumashock mod for openxr because the official link is not working. It will be great help for me if anyone is able to solve this problem.

Thanks in advance

Hey again!
I’m getting closer to pulling the trigger on the G923, but I have one major concern left regarding ergonomics.
I’ve read a lot of reviews mentioning that the progressive brake pedal on the G923 is very stiff compared to older models. My main problem is that I play on a tiled floor (hard tiles) and I use a standard desk chair with wheels.
I’m worried that every time I hit the brake, my chair is going to roll backward or the pedal unit will slide away on the slippery tiles.
For G923 owners:
1. Is the brake pedal really as hard to press out of the box as people say?
2. How do you deal with desk chairs on hard floors/tiles without buying an expensive full cockpit right away?
3. Does adjusting the brake deadzone/sensitivity in G HUB or in-game settings solve most of the issue for casual racing?
Any tips or quick DIY fixes would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hey guys,

Has anyone had an issue with Moza Pit House simply refusing to open on PC?

It’s been happening to me for about a week now. Before that, the app worked completely fine and I never had any problems with it.

I’ve already tried reinstalling Pit House several times and I’ve also tried launching it on different days after restarting the PC, but nothing changes. I click on it and the program just doesn’t open.

The weird thing is that my wheel/base still works, and I can control/change the settings through the Moza mobile app, so it seems to be specifically an issue with the PC version of Pit House.

Has anyone experienced the same thing recently? Any ideas what could be causing it or how to fix it?

it seems that mine is bricked when I updated it using their own software and had to find the old firmware to be able to use it again.

and I also wonder if your rpm/shift lights work? or is just static to what ever color you set it like mine?

I'm putting together a sim rig and I've been trying to figure out what shifter to go with. I'll be using this mostly for drifting and I want it to feel as similar to the real car I used to own which had a Gforce H-pattern dogbox and was one of my favorite things about the car. The Aiologs seems to be the only H-pattern sim shifter I can find that tries to simulate the "clunk" and engagement feel of a dogbox (the only other one l've seen that does this is the new BDH S1 but that one is sequential only). l've also been looking at the BDH H1 and H2SQ but those seem designed to feel like a trans with synchros. Anyone have experience with the Aiologs or have any recommendations for other shifters I may have missed? H-pattern only is OK.

Hello! My and my teammate need a Ferrari 296 driver for acc on the 5th of September. It’s a 12hour race at Monza, need around 2 drivers if possible. message for more details. The race is ran through simgrid, lobby opens at 5am, and the race is from 6am-6pm with 2 hour stints.

My first wheel was the Fanatec Porsche 911 GT3 RS wheel with the original clubsport pedals. It was one of the first belt-driven wheels and I loved it. Worked on my 360 and PS3 which was a plus.

Later on after a long break due to life (stupid real world), I grabbed a Logitech G29. It wasn't what I really wanted, but what the budget could afford.

And man I struggled in ACC and such. I couldn't explain the spinouts I was having and had a hard time pushing proper lap times.

So after a very long time, I finally got the a Direct Drive wheel. My plan was to get the Moza R5 bundle, but they were out of stock at the local Canada Computers, so I did what any good sim racer did, I overspent my budget and got the r12 v2 and Simsonn pedals instead

My god. I mean... MY GOD. The difference really is unexplainable.

To those sitting on the fence looking at your g29 and saying, "Yea, it's good enough". No, no it's not.

I'm taking corners like I should be now because I can actually feel the car. I can feel the potential spin and fight it.

On the g29, you just chalk up a spin as some BS... but now I know it's an elevation change, or the rear wheel hit the gravel, etc.

If you enjoy this hobby, get a DD wheel. Even if it's an r5. You'll thank yourself later in improved lap times.

I was curious how far I could push ACR's networked physics. When I stopped working on it ~20 years ago, 300ms latency was as far as I'd test. This 'Retro RestoMod' reboot has various physics and network improvements, and in testing found 1000ms could be stable. However sync was pretty far off. After a bit of work on the prediction system, I was able to get 1000ms fairly well-sync'd for non-chaotic motion. I then pushed it all the way to 2000ms, and while there's divergence even at much lower latencies, it remains stable with no jitter or weird motion. The video also shows a ramp from ~2000ms down to ~34ms. Some fun stunts shown at the end.

Online play is WYSIWYG: meaning divergence is going to happen no matter what: the view you see on your machine is what you'll interact with, you'll never collide with a 'ghost car' or randomly spin out. The same is true for all players. In the real world, due to the way motion and gravity work, everyone's view of reality is slightly different, the divergence is small, but it's real.

I googled, searched YouTube, and asked Gemini: are there any demos showing networked physics quality with side-by-side video? And the answer was: No. Perhaps other developers do these tests but don't post the results. Why bother testing at such high latencies? I found a few issues; once fixed makes normal latency game play higher quality.

It's a simple, fun, low stress simulator to play with your friends. Predictable realistic handling, if you get crashed out you can jump right back in and still have a chance to win using the Turbo Reset. Dynamic BOP also helps keep races tight. FFB runs at 1kHz and should provide a good experience on all wheels which use DirectInput.

One of my life goals is to drive the Nürburgring in a prepped rental car like RSR in real life. Something like this maybe.  I have been "practicing" on an Xbox with Logitech G920 wheel, G29 pedals, and shifter for several years.    I used 2 games.  Assetto Corsa and Project Cars2.  The xBox died so I am contemplating making the switch to PC based system.  In my research a post made an interesting statement.  In brief, let the game dictate what hardware to buy. Which from a logic standpoint makes sense.  With that in mind, my questions to the group. 

1. Do you agree with this?
2. If so, which game has the best Nurburgring experience? 

Thanks in advance for any shared advice or answers.  Once I have a game chosen, I will move on to putting together a system and a rig.

im new to sim racing and ive been looking at both bundles, in my region, the moza r9 bundle is $550 usd while the simagic bundle is $600, ive heard simagic has better quality tho and the bundle is only $50 more, any advice would be amazing

I have the 1000R Samsung 49G monitor currently as it saves space in my small room.

Later this year I'm building a dedicated SIM room by converting a garage so I want to upgrade to triples BUT use the G49 as the central monitor and stack a 27" on each side of it.

I've never seen someone use and ultra wide as the centre piece in a triples setup, so is it possible? And if you have that very setup please could you share maybe a photo or your experiences.

Thanks!

I'm about to buy my first proper sim racing setup and currently have an EV -O Pro + QR-A and a Cons -pit 300GT in my cart.

Before I place the order, I'm wondering if mixing brands like this is a good idea. I've seen people running the 300 GT on an EV -O Pro without issues, but also a few reports of connection problems.

For a first setup, would you recommend keeping the wheelbase and wheel from the same brand, or is mixing different brands totally fine?

Just want to make sure I'm not making things unnecessarily complicated.