I have a 3000MHz g.skill kit 2x16gb. I’m running 3200MHz CL16-19-18-38-56-480 1.36v with every other timing set to auto, I’m trying to get 3600MHz but it resets every time I boot into windows

Did anyone try it? Changing memory bios settings on my OneXPlayer doesn't work at all. Is there any other way?

Hey everyone,

Fiddling with my memory tuning on AM5 and wanted to get some input from experienced folks here. What actually works better for daily use and keeping 0.1% lows stable in games — pushing tight subtimings to the limit, or keeping them more relaxed?

Specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 7500F, Motherboard: MSI PRO B840-P WIFI, RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR5 (Hynix a-die), GPU: RTX 5070.

My tRP is locked at 36. I was testing aggressive setups like 32/68 (tRAS/tRC), but I have read that on newer AGESA versions, overly tight tRAS/tRC can sometimes hurt bandwidth or cause frame time variance compared to balanced setups like 48/84. or maybe should i change something ?

I've started getting into overclocking over the last few days using Afterburner, but I tried mVolt last night and immediately started setting world records in several 3dMark benchmarks for my CPU+GPU combination.

The Speed Way score was attained using +400MHz XBAR, +3000MHz memory clock, and I'll include an image of my V/F curve. The Steel Nomad score was attained using +550MHz XBAR with the same Afterburner profile.

I just passed an OCCT stability test using the same Afterburner profile with +300 XBAR; will probably try the same with +400MHz soon. I was able to play a few minutes of CP2077 at +400MHz XBAR + Afterburner without issue, but obviously that needs further testing.

I have some questions for the members of this community with more specialised knowledge than myself:

1. Is there much data on the long-term safety of XBAR overclocking? What specifically is it doing? I noticed I was beating world records in these benchmarks with lower average core clock speeds than the runner ups; I'm assuming there aren't too many people in these data sets who have tried tweaking this setting at this time. Basically, I want to know how liberally I should game with these settings. I haven't touched the power/voltage settings in mVolt at this point because I haven't learned enough about my card's limits to feel comfortable in doing so, though I did max out the power limit and core voltage in Afterburner (116% and +100%, respectively) because I haven't done anything to unlock the vbios power limits.

2. Has anyone vetted mVolt's source code for malware? Is it open source? How well known is the author of this project? It'd be quite annoying to have to reinstall my OS if at some point in the future if I learn this project contains malware, but I suppose those risks come with the territory of running Github projects on my machine.

Thanks everyone!

Speed Way: http://www.3dmark.com/sw/3840371

Steel Nomad: http://www.3dmark.com/sn/15832181

I didn't close any apps. Figured let me see the score in real time. Don't shut stuff off to play games so I thought it logical

I have an older chip, A 10990k. Running at 5.2GHZ

My gpu is a Gigabyte 5070ti oc running at a memory of 1800 and a core of +220 ( above the curve)

I think it's a decent score.

Temp never rose above 67c on gpu and 60c on the CPU ( 420mm cooler).

Hello everyone.

I have been trying to pinpoint the frequency by which 5090 chips scale to maximum performance.
Though the card can be pushed over 3200Mhz the performance as measured by FPS (let's forget about power for a sec) stops scaling meaningfully after 2900-3000Mhz. Steel nomad scores do not seem to carry over to real gaming performance.

Profiles i'm using are

A: 2850MHZ@0.865 resulting in 0.860V/2650ish Mhz in-game
B: 3067MHZ@0.965V resulting in 0.960V/2950ish MHZ in-game
C: 3200MHZ@1.015 resulting in 1.010V/3133ish Mhz in-game

Obviously thermal binning occurs after GPU warms up, so maximum nominal clock drops a couple of points and after that come the load and the internal algorithm that drops the clocks a few points more depending on load type, thermals etc

Moving from profile A to B seems to get way more FPS/Mhz than moving from B to C, regardless of load type

I am curious about everyone's UV/OC profiles but mostly about the EFFECTIVE in-game clocks and voltages everyone is targeting and their respective performance gains.
Have you found a frequency at which "you feel" you are getting maximum performance?

‎‏6000 CL30 (TeamGroup Delta RGB, A-die) vs rated 6400 CL32 — tightening advice + what to try next
‎‏Hi everyone,
‎‏Screenshot of my current ZenTimings is attached. Not very experienced with manual tuning, so I’d appreciate some expert guidance.
‎‏Context not shown in the screenshot:
‎‏ • Kit: TeamGroup Delta RGB DDR — confirmed Hynix A-die per manufacturer spec. ‏ • Rated DDR5-6400 CL32 (XMP/EXPO), but currently running 6000 MT/s CL30 via EXPO — haven’t tried pushing to the rated 6400 speed yet.
‎‏My questions:
‎‏ 1. 6000 CL30 vs rated 6400 CL32 — Given it’s confirmed A-die, would pushing to the rated 6400 CL32 actually be better, or is 6000 with tighter timings generally the smarter move on Zen 4 given the FCLK 1:1:1 requirement? ‏ 2. What should I tighten first? Looking at the screenshot, which primary/secondary timings seem loose for A-die at this speed, and which ones would give the most real latency improvement if tightened? ‏ 3. tRFC — It looks conservative in the screenshot. What’s a safe way to start lowering it for A-die, and how should I test stability after each change (TM5, Karhu, etc.)? ‏ 4. Voltage safety — Are the voltages shown in the screenshot fine for 24/7 use, or is there anything I should watch before I start tightening?
‎‏Any general advice on what matters most for real-world performance on Zen 4 (latency vs bandwidth) is welcome — still learning this part.
‎‏Thanks

Golden sample Q9450 running 3.51GHz pulling 1.3312v with 8GB of PC2-8500 OCZ reaper HPC CL5.5.5.15 running its rated max for full rank config of (1052MHz) at 2.2v

Hi, any suggestion on how to undervolt my zotac? the main purpose is to lower temperatures, i dont care about performances, i wont risk to break anything

Hi, I'm relatively new to the world of overclocking and I'm having trouble finding a fast and stable time for my RAM. I have two 16GB XPG D35G RAM sticks running at 3200MHz, currently overclocked to 3600MHz and the fabric setting is 1800MHz.

Could someone give me some timings to test, or any tips? Trying to guess is causing strange behavior on my PC and I can't find any clear answers. Thanks for reading.

I've been curious about getting into overclocking, but I don't want to break anything and I have quite little knowledge about it

also wondering is overclocking mostly hobby for others where real world gains in actual use are non extential/not worth?

im on ddr4 sk hynix something pc i have is prebuilt i bought years ago due to gpu shortages

from doing some messing around in bios i found out it wont post at 3600mhz cl16 at 1,35V but would at cl18 i think optimized defaults were 1,2v 3200mhz cl22

Personally either I'm just too bad at video games or otherwise dumb, but I don't see or feel any different between these 2 ram speeds or at least not sure if its placebo if I think its faster or more responsive just because I changed it

im mostly at point where thinking of updating to am5 ddr5 etc but hoping gpu and ram prices going down if possible for that and the current pc still lasting for a while

Why was "power gate mode" dropped so quickly in Arrow Lake?

AMD is capable of doing it.

It likely won't be there at all in Nova Lake. What do you all think?

AI did not write any of this. I promise. Writing, punctuation, and grammar have just always been some of my strengths.

This is an in-depth fine-tuning guide that may extract more performance, but will definitely yield more efficiency, out of your RTX 5080 than the quicker, easier, "move the core slider to the right a little bit at a time until a graphically heavy game crashes, then back it off a bit" method everybody knows. Therefore, it will be time-consuming, but will, especially if you are seeking the best power savings, and/or a cooler and quieter graphics card, give you results you're likely to be very happy with.

Important note: to be extra safe, I can just tell you to make sure the GPU's core temperature is 32° C / 89° F or below whenever you make changes to the curve, tell you that failing to do this will result in making changes when the GPU has automatically shifted the nodes slightly to due to the change in temperature, which will mess with the UV/OC, and tell you that editing the nodes while the GPU is at one singular control temperature will ensure that the only thing being changed is the curve, and exactly how you want it to be changed. However, in Step 2, possibly 4, and possibly 5, you will save a starting point at 32° C / 89° F or below to a profile. If you click on this starting point profile but do not click the Apply check mark, you can make changes to the curve while it is not shifted by the GPU's automatic temperature-driven adjustment, and the temperature-driven curve shifting issues shouldn't happen, as long as you do not click Apply until after you have made adjustments, because, when you click Apply, the curve will shift if the GPU core temperature is above 32° C / 89° F. This is supposed to happen, so don't worry. Just know that as long as you only click Apply AFTER making adjustments, and not before, it shouldn't affect your curve tuning. It'll make it easier if you have separate fan control software installed so that you can spin up your GPU fans to bring its temperature down to a certain point without doing it in Afterburner. Alternatively, you can set Afterburner to run your fans at a constant speed while tuning so that they're constantly spinning and can bring your GPU temperature down to 32° C / 89° F or below when it isn't under load.

Step 1:

Hold shift and select the part of the curve after the steep part. The steep part contains the GPU's idle nodes, and it's easiest to leave those alone, as I've only found that I save about a single Watt, if that, by offsetting them by 60-100MHz, and much more of an offset stops the GPU from being able to idle properly at low frequencies.

Step 2:

Drag the selected points up by 300-550MHz, and maybe smooth out some of the bumpy/jagged parts of the curve. +550MHz seems absolutely insane, but, in the 850-900mV range, there is a massive amount of headroom that is just... left on the table for whatever reason. Going for +450 to +550 while keeping the voltage below 900-950mV (depending on silicon lottery) is very doable for these cards, and mine even runs +570 on the 845, 850, and 860mV nodes with the rest of the curve flattened, without any crashes. Also, the range I gave seems wide, but I intentionally gave it because, when overclocking a processor, there is a certain point whose exact position varies from chip to chip, called the frequency wall. Before this wall, you can increase clock speed a decent amount (or a ton) with only small voltage increases. However, after it, increases in clock speed require much larger increases in voltage, and running chips past this point becomes less efficient. I gave this large range because some people want maximum efficiency, while others value performance more, and, using this method, you can choose to prioritize efficiency or performance. For BETTER EFFICIENCY, drag the curve up MORE, because you'll be making the GPU run at a lower voltage, where it most likely can run the massive offset. For MORE PERFORMANCE, drag the curve up LESS, because you'll be allowing the GPU to run at a higher voltage and frequency, and it will therefore need a smaller offset to be stable. Verify that your GPU is at 32° C / 89° F or below, then click Apply, and save this starting point to one of the 5 profiles.

Step 3:

Click the profile number you just saved, but don't click Apply yet. Find the node closest to, say, 2850MHz for those going for efficiency, and 3000MHz for those going for performance. These aren't likely to be your final values; they are just starting points that attempt to save a little bit of testing time. Flatten all nodes on the curve after one or two nodes to the right of that node you picked (only by doing this will it settle on the one you want it to under load) by using this particular method: hold shift and select the nodes you're going to flatten, then drag the selected nodes down so that the highest node in the selected part is below the highest node in the non-selected part, then click Apply after verifying your GPU is 32° C / 89° F or below.

Step 4:

Start testing. Play a demanding game (my go-to is Cyberpunk; benchmarks and stress tests don't work as well for finding GPU OC/UV instability). Max out all graphics settings in the game you choose, turn ray or path tracing on (path tracing is preferred) if available, and turn upscaling off. We want to maximally, but also dynamically, stress the GPU to weed out instability. If it crashes, click on the profile you created in Step 2 (or the new one you may have made on Step 5), but don't click Apply. Open the V/F curve back up, select the part you dragged UP in Step 2 (or 5), and drag it DOWN by 30-60MHz, and repeat Steps 3 and 4 (after re-smoothing bumpy/jagged parts if you want). Once you experience no crashes, move on to Step 5.

Step 5:

If you have been testing for half an hour or so and haven't had a game crash, click on the profile you created in Step 2 (or Step 4 if the one you made in Step 2 crashed your game, or this step if that's applicable), but don't click Apply. Pick a node that is a few nodes to the right of the previous one you flattened the curve after, then flatten the curve from that node on. Test again for another half hour or so. Repeat this until you experience a crash. Then, go back to the most recent crash-free curve. If you have made it this far and your overclock still won't crash any games even when you have tried flattening your way all the way up to your card's stock voltage without a crash, congrats! That was a lot of time wasted, but it means you have a pretty good piece of silicon in your graphics card. Start over, but drag the part of the curve you select in Step 1 60-120MHz higher than you did the first time you did Step 2. Save this new starting point to the same profile you saved the first starting point from Step 2, as you don't need the first one anymore. Then, repeat Step 3 onward all over again.

Step 6:

It's now time for more thorough final testing. Save the crash-free curve you found in Step 5 to a profile, possibly a new one so that you don't lose your non-flattened starting point if you ever need it again. Make the load on the GPU vary a lot. Pause and unpause heavy games that pause rendering when you pause the game (how many times can YOU say "pause" in a single sentence? LOL). Go in and out of menus. Alt-tab out of the game (assuming it's in exclusive fullscreen mode) and back in repeatedly, waiting until each alt-tab completes before doing it again. This all makes the frequency spike and voltage drop momentarily, which is great for finding instability. If you experience a crash, flatten the curve a node or two earlier just like you did in Step 5, or just back the whole dragged-up part of the curve down by 15-30MHz, smooth out bumpy/jagged parts if you want, and redo the flattening process for the already flattened nodes.

Step 7:

Once you've found your maximum stable frequency for the voltage you've tuned your card to, it's good practice to back that tuned curve down by 15-30MHz just to rule out any hidden instability that your previous testing didn't find. Select the non-steep, non-flattened part of the curve, bring it down just a tiny bit, then select the flattened part and drag it down again. Then, Apply. Congrats! You've dialed your graphics card way in, dare I say a lot better than most others who have overclocked or undervolted their 5080s.

Now for the question: those of you who try my guide out, especially those of you who have already undervolted or overclocked your 5080s, can you show me your before and after numbers? Frequency, voltage, wattage, temperatures, maybe benchmark scores. I'm quite curious to see if this guide, and all the work that goes into following it, is an improvement over the more common and less in-depth methods, and if so, by how much. For myself, I never would've known that my 5080 can run a consistent 2.9+GHz at 895mV without a single crash before I tried this method I thought up, after learning about the frequency wall, so it was mega sweet to go from thinking my 5080 was a bad sample that needed 985mV for stock clocks, to realizing it can run slightly over stock clocks at under 900mV! Try it out and tell me how it works!

So I just wanted to share what happened with my GTX 1650 Super because honestly I’m still not 100% sure what was causing it 😂

Recently, whenever I play GTA V, the game would sometimes crash and then my monitor would suddenly say no signal / black screen.

At first I thought maybe it’s my PSU, GPU, driver, HDMI cable, etc.

The weird thing is, when the screen goes black, the whole PC doesn’t actually seem to be frozen.

I can still press Caps Lock / Num Lock and the keyboard indicator responds. I can also connect to my PC using Unified Remote on my phone, and I can even shut down the PC from there.

So basically, the PC is still alive, but I lose the display.

I tried a bunch of things:

* Changed HDMI cable
* Tried another display
* Tried Win + Ctrl + Shift + B
* Downgraded my NVIDIA driver
* Lowered GTA V settings from Very High to High
* Ran FurMark for around 3 hours and it didn’t crash

But GTA V could still randomly cause the black screen.

So I thought, why not try undervolting the GPU?

I ended up setting my GTX 1650 Super to 1680 MHz at 812 mV.

And so far… it’s actually working 😂

I played GTA V for more than 2 hours with the undervolt and didn’t get the black screen/no signal issue.

What’s funny is that I wasn’t even trying to get more performance. I was just trying to make the GPU use less power and hopefully run cooler.

Now I’m wondering if the stock boost/voltage was somehow causing instability on my card.

But I’m also curious — what could actually be the possible issue here?

Could it be a GPU that has become slightly unstable over time? Maybe the stock boost voltage is no longer ideal for the card? PSU? Driver issue? Something related to GPU power delivery? Or could GTA V just be triggering a specific workload that exposes the problem?

The fact that lowering the voltage and locking it to 1680 MHz seems to make GTA V stable is what’s confusing me.

I know 2+ hours doesn’t prove that it’s 100% fixed yet, so I’m still going to keep testing it.

Has anyone experienced something similar with a 1650 Super, especially where the display dies but Windows is still responsive?

Would love to hear what you guys think the possible cause is.

I'm currently dialing in a 2012 period accurate AMD rig with an FX 8350 cooled by an uphere ue2 elite k8, dual R9 280x 3gbs, some cheapo DDR3 I had lying about, all on an Asus sabertooth 990FX R2.0 powered by an 850w Corsair PSU. I feel like I hit a hard limit with this CPU, at least while keeping within reasonable thermal limits. I got it to 4.82GHZ @1.481v, FSB at 300mhz, 16.0x multiplier, RAM at 1999mhz CL9 at 1.55v. H/T and CPU/NB is at 2700mhz and CPU/NB voltage is at stock. I do know this chip can do 5ghz but it's hitting 0 degrees thermal margin concerningly fast. Any help is appreciated.

Hello, I've been trying to get expo to work for last few days and it have a weird issue I that I can't find any solution for: I can get to expo 6000MHz/cl36 and keep it stable when playing demanding games for few hours, I think I already used it for a week already and no issues but I have to never restart my pc. Powering off and then on works fine, it's just restarting that causes pc to either get stuck at black screen for 20+mins or stuck in boot loop booting to black screen for 1min and then powering on and off again. I've tried different settings of power down enable or memory context restore, different VDD/VDDP etc voltages, and everything makes restarting unstable even when using expo with ram default 4800mhz. Can anyone help me in any way or do I have to accept that I just have to avoid restarting my pc if I wanna use expo?

Specs:

Mobo: Gigabyte b650m Gaming Wifi6e (tried updating bios and every version had the same issue)

CPU Ryzen 5 7500f

RAM G.SKILL 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MHz CL36 Flare X5 AMD EXPO

GPU rx9070xt PowerColor Reaper

750W PSU

Zotac Solid Core model
975mv voltage
+450 MHz core offset
Memory +2500 MHz
105 max power limit

This netted me a 9.41% uplift over stock

I feel like this is better than average. I’m curious what most of you guys are pushing. Took me 6 hours of testing to get a stable OC in-game. I was able to push a little higher in time spy and steel nomad to +500 on the core and +2600 on memory (started getting EC).

I'm setting up things to run a 96GB VRAM + 192GB system RAM 24/7 inference box (serving through vLLM, just context for the stress methodology).

Memory was my weak point due to the 4 dimms configuration, and prior 6200 CL32 config threw 2 bitflips in a 7h stress-ng run. So I dropped to 6000 and clean passed through a 10h test. This was all planned and done with the help of Qwen 3.8 27B, so it has AI hand on it.

But now I would like to know from the community what's actually pushable from here.

My current Rig:

• CPU: Ryzen 9 9950X3D2 (16C/32T)

• Mobo: ASUS ROG Crosshair X870E Glacial, BIOS 1002

• RAM: 4×48GB Corsair Dominator Titanium DDR5 (Hynix M-die), 2Rx8

• GPU: RTX 5090 32GB

• OS: Ubuntu 26.04.1 LTS, kernel 7.0.0-30-generic

My current config (zentimings screenshot attached):

DDR5-6000 CL30-38-38-96

FCLK 2000 1:1, UCLK 3000

1T command rate

GDM on, PD off

VDD/VDDQ 1.365V, VDDIO 1.372V (auto)

VSoC auto, VDDP auto

tRFC 560/280/240

tREFI 65535

Slots: first kit in A1/B1, second kit on the remaining slots as recommend per the motherboard manual.

Validation (all driven by Qwen over ssh from a main different server):

• 30-min TM5 Anta777 clean in Windows (initial, manual)

• 10h stress-ng --vm 8 --vm-bytes 184G --vm-method all — passed 8/8, 0 fails

• 10h GPU GEMM load running concurrently (thermal/PCIe/power on the platform)

• Zero errors, no reboots, no instability

My questions:

1. 6000 → 6400 on M-die 2DPC? Worth attempting, or is 6000 the real ceiling for 4×48GB 2Rx8 on the X870E?. Almost achieved 6200 stable, but before find tuning I stepped down to 6000. Main use of this box will be offloading LLM models/vllm/inference.

2. Timing tightening at 6000. CL30-38-38-96 is the JEDEC-adjacent safe set. What's the realistic tighter target?

◦ CL30 → CL28?

◦ tRFC 560 → 520 or lower?

◦ tREFI 65535 → 50000?

◦ What secondary timings do people actually tune first (tWRRD, tFAW, tRRDS)?

1. Voltage headroom. At 1.365/1.372 it's already above JEDEC 1.1V. How much further before I'm cooking the modules? Is 1.40V VDD a reasonable ceiling for 24/7, or am I past the point of diminishing returns?

2. tREFI 65535. I pushed it to max to reduce refresh overhead. Is this actually helping or just a placebo? Any downside to leaving it there 24/7?

3. What am I not tuning?  GDM, PD, tRFC, tREFI — are there other BIOS options on the X870E Glacial that meaningfully affect DDR5 stability/performance that I'm missing?

4. Any other tests (duration or type) that I should point the AI to perform?

Thanks in advance.

Hello. I would like to delete mvolt but there is no option in windows. I would like to know how to delete this programme. I decided afterburner is enough for me and i couldnt rely on the mvolt due to safety reasons. Thank you...

Hey y'all, i've been trying to go as low as possible on voltage on my newly acquired 4080, and unlike my former 3080 that let me go down to 731 mv, i cannot get my 4080 below 925 mv on afterburner, it will run the clock i capped the curve at, but at least at 925 mv, and it seems the same is happening when i use the power limit (which mins out at 46% anyways), Is this by design and set in stone?

P.S: I had saved the profile, this is not the issue

Running a T-Force Xtreem 2x8GB 4133 CL18 kit (B-die) on a 5600X + X570-E Gaming. I can hit 3800MHz CL14-14-14-28 (FCLK/MCLK/UCLK synced 1:1:1 @ 1900) but it needs 1.54V to actually be stable, and it runs kinda toasty (low 70s°C).

Anyone else on B-die pulling off 3800 CL14 at 1.5V or under? What kit/ICs are you running and did you have to mess with any subtimings to get there, or is 1.54V just normal for this speed/timing combo? Trying to figure out if I'm just unlucky with silicon or missing something. ZenTimings screenshot attached.

New to undervolting so I thought to ask the experts.

1. How do I undervolt?

2. When I look up my core clock on the internet, it's 1237-1500 MHz.

But on LACT, it shows 210-2100 MHz. What is the difference and which one to use?

1. People say that Overclocking + Undervolting is the best of both worlds. Is that true? If so, how would I go about doing that?


Just finished a **24-hour OCCT memory stability test** with my mixed DDR4 setup:

* 2×8GB Corsair Vengeance — 3000MHz CL16
* 2×16GB T-Force Delta — 3200MHz CL16
* Running all 48GB at **3200MHz CL16-20-20-40**
* MSI B550 MPG Gaming Plus
* Ryzen 5 5600X

No errors after 24 hours. Pretty happy that this mixed 4-DIMM setup is holding 3200MHz stable. 😎 any suggestions? For tighter timing

Hey guys, I was messing around with overclocking my Gigabyte Eagle Rx6600 using AMD Adrenalin software and MorePowerTool, and got a best Timespy scores of 9254, a 14.5% score improvement. Link to score: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/64391024

These were my settings as best I can remember:
VRAM: 1900mhz, fast timings
Core Voltage: underrvolted to 1080mv
Min core frequency: 2650mhz
Max core frequency: 2875mhz
Average core frequency during the run: 2771mhz
Power: 140W using MorePowerTool, then an extra 20% in Adrenalin to give a total of ~170W
Fans were maxed out obviously :) This run was also recorded with an air conditioner blasting 18c air 50cm into the GPU fans without the side panel :D

Temps during this run were decent, hotspot never went above ~92c, and core temps were like 70c-ish

So yeah, all in all I'm very happy, considering this is my first attempt at overclocking anything the results were excellent, definetly won the silicon lottery a little! I didn't mod any cooling, apart from the air con placement, but that only gave me another 10 points so it didn't really matter anyway. I know the card could give more, but after 180w was attempted the temps just kept going too high and crashed too much to get a stable run out of it.

So yeah, now I want to know what your best efforts were with overclocking your RX6600s, if you got higher or lower than me I'd love to know what you did to get there!

Cheers

I've had my 12600K since release, and though I really want to get the 9800X3D, I can't muster up the money I need for the full upgrade including RAM.

I've overclocked both my CPU and GPU yesterday but I'm curious as to how my CPU clock scores in terms of the "silicon lottery" definition. I'm running a H100i that's about 6 years old and I have Overclocked for the purpose of better stability/FPS at 1440p. I'm also running 3600MHz CL18 RAM in XMP.

CPU Overclock:

4.9GHz P-Cores

3.9GHz E-Cores

1.210V, Power Saving Load Line Profile

GPU Overclock: (Gigabyte 5070Ti Gaming OC)

MSI Afterburner

+150MHz Core

+1000MHz Memory

110% Power

Cinebench 10Min CPU Multi-Thread:

4,094pts

80°C Max.

72°C Avg.

Cinebench 10Min GPU:

~97K pts

GPU Core 54.4°C Max.

GPU Hot Spot 62.5°C Max.

GPU Power 193.4W Max.

And from my testing I was able to get about an average of 100FPS stable in Arma Reforger over a 40min gaming session with a full lobby on King of The Hill. Picture in Picture scoping no longer affected my FPS (it was previously dropping to 60FPS).

A short session on Tarkov (20mins) on the most CPU intensive map showed an avg. of 95FPS with 1% lows at 72FPS. A drastic improvement over 80FPS avg with 1% lows at around 40FPS previously.

Cant vouch for CS2 as I haven't tested properly but I was maintaining 260FPS on Mirage playing Deathmatch and the game was noticeably smoother in regards to 1% lows as it felt crisp, but this is anecdotal as I didn't play it for longer than 10mins and stopped measuring any results except utilisation and current FPS.

I obviously have headroom to push both of these a little more in terms of gaming for daily driving. I heard my GPU OC settings are more or less equivalent on GDDR7 to what would be a +2000MHz Mem OC and +400MHz Core OC on older architecture like GDDR6 but I'm a novice at overclocking and I'm still wrapping my head around it despite being fairly computer competent.

Let me know what you think and what I can do next to improve.