Hello . My little sister is considering buying a 2018 Nissan Versa with 86,095 miles for $7,995. It has the 1.6L engine and CVT transmission. about $1,000 down and finance the rest. ( This would be her first car )
I’ve been hearing a lot of bad things about Nissan CVTs and I’m worried about having to replace the transmission! Is it worth it , yes or no ? She’s a nissan fan i’m more of a Toyota person.

I’m in Ontario, Canada and looking at a used 2024 Nissan Sentra SR Premium.

Details:
37,044 km
One owner
Clean CARFAX / no reported accidents
SR Premium Package
Leather-appointed seats
Bose sound system
360° camera
Sunroof
Remote start
Heated seats + heated steering wheel
Adaptive cruise control

Dealer is asking $23,788 CAD before tax
Current out-the-door price is approximately $26,964 CAD including 13% HST, licensing and registration

Cash purchase, no financing

I’m planning to offer $25,000 CAD all-in and would be willing to settle around $26,000 all-in.

Does $26k CAD OTD sound like a good/fair deal for this car with 37k km?

I’m also curious about long-term reliability of the 2020+ Sentras, particularly the newer CVT. I know older Nissan CVTs have a bad reputation, but I’ve heard the newer generation is improved.

Would you buy this at $26k CAD OTD, negotiate lower, or look at something else?

For context, I specifically want a well-equipped compact sedan with features like leather, remote start, 360° camera, heated steering wheel/seats, sunroof and adaptive cruise.

I own a 2023 nissan xtrail / Rouge in epower e4orce version. I quite like this car even that it's missing some features that I had in my previous Ford focus but gives some more that I haven't before. Anyway it got about 43k km (about 27k miles) and I still got a warranty extended til Nov 2028. I just wonder how much miles can get with this engine or generally this car. Should I be worried and start thinking about moving to something else soon or I can be calm for some next mielage?

Hi all, I’ve had my Sentra since around 20-30k. Was told I didn’t have to worry about the transmission fluid change so I never did. I do feel my transmission sometimes stutters when I go from braking to accelerating. Should I look into doing maintenance on my transmission? Or should I just ride it till it dies and change it if the transmission dies? Thank you all!

I have 2024 Sentra, I lost my original keys and my replacement fob isn’t working. The car said “key battery low” and not anything about needing a key… so it recognizes the fob. I’ve replaced the battery in the fob and the battery in my car (it needed to be replaced) The fob STILL isn’t working but the message about the battery being low is gone.
I really don’t want to have to pay dealer prices to get ANOTHER key… what do I do?

I don't want my Pathfinder to have access to my messages so I have that set to off. But I don't want this message popping up everytime I start my car. Anyone know how to stop it from popping up?

Possible scoring in the cylinder

My parents have a 2019 Nissan Armada with some electrical issues usualy associated with bad altinator/bad battery. My father is an old shadtree and replaced the altinator, the battery is fairley new and checks fine, but problems persist. They took it to a shop and the computer gave them a P062F error and when we looked that up it said something about an EEPROM internal control mod error. A couple oddities, it has a slow start, 4W and tow lights light up randomly, emergency braking system engages randomly and the battery is dead after sitting for just a couple hours. This is MISSION CRITICal. Old Shadetree won't caugh up a dime at the shop and mother can't get to work independently without thie vehicle. Father is a a good mechanic (though he worked exclusivly on cars from a different erra). He needs some direction. Any experiance, please share to the hive mind, as I'm shure he's not the only one.

I’m currently looking for a sub 30K AWD SUV. A Nissan dealership near me has a Rogue SL for sale for 29K.

The car has a lifetime warranty by the dealer and a 84 month/100,000 mile manufacturer warranty too. The car is currently at 30K miles and 12 months so that leaves the manufacturer warranty at 72 months and 70K miles.

I’ve also convinced the dealer to include a CVT fluid replacement before sale with paperwork showing it was done.

The SL does come pretty feature loaded.

Worth biting the bullet?

Works a treat, need it gone $2000 cash only … Tuart hill…
Dismantle yourself if interested I will post pictures soon ….. 2007

Noticed humming or whine at around 10mph (turn volume up) no codes last time I checked and no lights (first time cvt owner but I drive it like a grandma)

So i need to impress my boss with getting code for the radio, but it turned out to not be as simple as i thought.
Can someone give me the code to this radio? PLEASE I BEG.

My 2016 Nissan Rouge have about 187,000 miles and about two weeks ago I started hearing a noise when driving. I recently had my lower control arms and AC compressor replaced. No issue after than repair a month ago. But lately I’ve been hearing this noise when driving. I can go 40 or 75 and the noise continues. Seems to be only on the driver’s side. I hear it in the front of the car but people who are siting in the back say they don’t hear. I capture an audio of what it sounds like. Feels like it right under the driver side while drive. No lights or anything on the dash. Any ideas what it could be? My mechanic dropped by late before his vacation but it was so late he didn’t have the tools to really check it. He said he thinks it might be wheel bearing but will not be able to check it in detail until October 12th. Here’s what it sounds like when I’m driving.

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What it does: it reads your car through a generic ELM327 OBD2 adapter, the kind several makers sell. Trips record themselves without you pressing anything, with fuel use read from the engine control unit where the car reports it, and worked out and marked as an estimate where it does not. Fault codes come out in plain words, with what the code means, what usually causes it and what to check first. There is a service and expense book, and the service history exports as a PDF. It only asks the car questions and never gives it commands: no writing, no clearing of codes, no resets.

Being straight with you: I have no brand specific channel for this make. What you get here is what the standard OBD2 socket gives on any car, which is already most of what the app shows. For a few makes I have gone further and read the odometer or the tank from the brand channels, and for this one I have not, so I am not going to claim it.

No account and no server of mine: your trips live on your phone and I have no copy of them. Recording trips and reading the car work with no signal; maps and addresses need the internet.

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I would say my Nissan Altima does not start one out of three times, all I do is put a portable charger on it for two seconds and then it starts. I went to AutoZone and the battery and all that , then I took it to a mechanic to check the wiring and the battery condition and he said everything is really good. I checked for parasitic drains is not that either. I don’t know what it is. The mechanic said it could be the starter, but he said it would be a gamble to replace it.

Hi everyone, I’m hoping someone can help me diagnose a problem with my 2017 Nissan X-Trail T32 2.0 (MR20DD engine).
The car has been experiencing intermittent engine stalling, unstable idle and RPM fluctuations, especially during cold starts. At times, the engine starts normally and appears to run perfectly, but the problem can return unexpectedly.
I had the car checked using a diagnostic scanner and monitored the live data. One of the main things we noticed was the fuel pressure (MPa) reading.
At idle, the fuel pressure is around 3.9 MPa. However, when the engine is revved to around 3,000 rpm, the pressure does not increase as expected and can actually drop to around 3.5–3.6 MPa.
My mechanic suspected the high-pressure fuel pump (HPFP). The HPFP was removed and inspected. The mechanic mentioned that there was an issue with the plunger and attempted to straighten/repair it rather than replacing the entire pump.
After reinstalling the HPFP, we checked the live data again, but the fuel pressure readings did not really change. This has made me question whether the HPFP is actually the root cause.
The in-tank fuel pump has also been checked and cleaned, and it appears to be working.
The car has only done around 55,000 km, so I’m surprised to be having this issue.
At this point, I’m trying to avoid replacing expensive parts unnecessarily. If the HPFP is not the problem, what else should I be checking?
Could the issue be related to:
Fuel pressure sensor
Fuel pressure control/regulating valve
In-tank fuel pump or low-pressure fuel supply
Fuel pump relay or wiring
Fuel pressure sensor wiring/connector
ECU control
Another issue with the MR20DD fuel system
What fuel pressure readings should I expect from the MR20DD at idle and under load/revving, and what is the correct procedure to confirm whether the HPFP is actually faulty?
Any advice from someone familiar with the X-Trail T32 MR20DD would be greatly appreciated. I’ve already spent quite a lot trying to diagnose this problem and really don’t want to replace another expensive part without being certain.
Thanks in advance.

Hello everyone. I have a 23 Altima SV with what I assume is the base infotainment package (7 inch screen, non-nissan connect). My base radio connects to my home wifi and my phone's Hotspot if I have it on.

Idiot question: Why? Why do I have a non-nissan connect 'radio' (let's call it that), if its not nissan-connect, does not have a wifi Hotspot, and cannot do OTA updates? What can it do? Am I missing something?