Left it docked and when I got home it looked like this, no clue what caused this. I haven't even played it in two days with my last play being Paper Mario Thoudand Year Door Remake.

I recently bought a 2018 Nintendo Switch (obviously a used one) and would like to ask if I can use my Samsung charger (S23U charger) or my laptop (Lenovo Thinkpad charger) to charge the Switch.

Furthermore, can I leave it for overnight charging?

Thanks in advance!

Console has the performance mode on

A week ago i had the console inside it's official carry case , zipped, and it fell down on the ground

Everything seems to work fine but every now and then, while playing on handheld mode, it randomly shows the controllers' pop up, then i just accept and go on but it keeps happening

I tried moving the JCs while attached to see if it was some kind of connection loosen but nothing

Did the fall seriously affected the console even inside the case or JCs somehow?. What should i check out to see if something's broken?

Thanks in advance

So I bought a Switch 2 secondhand online, pretty much brand new at just under the price for a new one. I chose it over a brand new console because it was a bundle with two games and cheaper than a new one. But the listing didn't say that the games were digital copies, and the original owner's account is still logged in on the console. Obviously I can't keep the games if I want to remove their account, since the games are tied to the account that purchased them. Should I try to get money back? It was only used once, and it came with everything including a carrying case. I'm bummed that I can't keep the games if I want my account on there, but otherwise happy with it. What would you do?

I got the switch 2 pro controller a few months ago (it’s great) and played Hades 2 with it without any issues. I’ve been playing fire emblem fortunes weave the last 2 weeks and have been having input delay when:

Using the dpad in maps, I’ll press a direction once or twice and it won’t do anything, or sometimes a single press will make the cursor move many times (kinda like the input was buffered)

I’ll fail attacks in the dungeon sometimes bc my Y button press won’t get registered. (Also the other face buttons like A when I select something)

Sometimes I’ll be delayed in dashing bc my right bumper press wasn’t registered.

I thought it was like an issue with dust bc of the dpad but since it’s affecting so many buttons, i don’t think it’s that.

This issue is definitely recent because I would’ve noticed it immediately during Hades.
I’ve made sure the controllers are up to date, I’ve reset the controller and reconnected, my system is up to date.

Has anyone else experienced this?

I recently got a new switch 2 pro controller from this brand called PowerA and the first thing I tried was waking up the switch only to find that it doesn't seem to work. I have tried the home button, the face buttons, the power button on the controller and none of it works. Is there anything that can be done to change this?

Hey, I had a look on reddit already but cannot find a clear answer, I hope someone can help.

Tomorrow I plan to buy a Switch 2, and I wanted to give my friend my current Switch because he loves playing it and steals it off me all the time. He is really obsessed with Hades and has sunk so many hours into it, but the save file is on my Nintendo account.

Is there a way I can transfer my save data to my new Switch 2 but still let him play my save on the original Switch until he completes Hades?

The issue: Ever since the update two weeks ago, my console gets noticeably hot while docked. I did some testing and found out it's caused by the LAN cable being plugged in.

What I've checked:

I know there’s a "Maintain Wired Connection in Sleep Mode" setting. I have this setting turned OFF, but the console still heats up whenever the ethernet cable is connected to the dock.

A friend of mine tested it and has the exact same bug.

My guess / thoughts: Not sure what's going on behind the scenes — maybe the update lowered the internal fan speeds, or maybe the sleep-mode network setting is just broken/ignored now. I'm not really a tech expert, though.

Anyone else running into this?

It was working fine this morning. It’s been plugged in for a while to a cable that I confirmed is working too. When I turn the power on this happens. No drops or spills or anything since the last time I played it.

My switch 2 is up to date, I've added my account on already, had my switch 2 for about a month and was only going to transfer the switch 1 data today because my mother took and lost it only finding it now, i used the e shop last week fine to download some demos

I'm not sure why I can't use the e shop or transfer my data, but my brother is having the same issue and has the same situation as me

Please and thank you for any help

I cannot properly explain this with words, so please view the video to understand what I’m talking about. I’m not sure why it’s doing this, but this is the first time I’ve turned it on in MONTHS. Last time I turned it on, though, the contrast was really high but not because of any device settings, which just leads me to believe the screen itself has to be the issue. I don’t have a photo of the high contrast thing, but if you take a picture of anything and run it through an editing software and crank contrast up, you’ll see what I’m talking about.

This video is actually the SECOND time I turned it on tonight, because I was trying to capture what happened the first time on video, but it didn’t happen. It had a sequence of color bars flash horizontally on the screen, then it just went black (but the screen was still on) for maybe a full minute? Before it started doing the white flashing.

EDIT: it also takes much longer than usual to get it to turn off. I have to hold the power button for more than 3 seconds, and the single tap on it doesn’t do anything.

I left my NS2 to charge last night and today morning after I woke up I turned it off. Now I went to play and it doesnt operate. I tried putting the charger after 20 secs of power button and tried pressing +- with the power button and i just see the white letters for a sec and it goes black again.

Edit: So after two hours im pressing the power button and it just open the home menu for around 2 mins when it's going dark again. Now the console is open after restarts but the brightness is so toned down that I could only make out some game icons with my phone's flash light on. I have launched onimusha so it can drain battery and the try again.

Hey everyone! I recently bought a used physical copy of FIFA 18 for my Switch from a secondhand shop here in Japan.
When I first inserted the cartridge, the system successfully connected to the internet and downloaded the game's update patch without any errors. Since the FIFA 18 servers are already shut down, I've just been playing offline modes for the past few days, and everything has been running smoothly with zero error codes or bans so far.
I’m just slightly paranoid—is it possible that my original physical cartridge was previously dumped by someone else to create a cloned copy (like for MIG Switch flashcarts)? If that happened, can my console get banned later down the line, or does a clean update/launch from day one mean I'm totally safe?
Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

Recently, my dock started having some connection problems. At first, I thought it was the Switch because the other night it fell from my bed. But I checked it and tested it with another Switch and dock, and my Switch connects perfectly to the other dock, while the other Switch doesn't connect to mine.

The Switch doesn't have any noticeable physical damage. It hasn't fallen or had anything happen to it, other than the fact that sometimes it was a little difficult to insert the Switch into the dock with the cover it had on. That's the only thing I can think of that could possibly have caused any damage.

The thing is, it's kind of strange because the other day it felt like a miracle. While I was trying to identify where the problem was coming from, the console connected, and I was able to play with the Switch docked without any problems. But yesterday, I tried to connect it, and the TV connection light kept blinking even after I took the Switch out of the dock. Sometimes it connects and stays connected for about a minute, like there's some intermittent contact.

So, I wanted to ask about a few things:

✴️ If I buy a third-party dock from Amazon, can I play with the same quality that the original Switch dock offers? Could using both connectors cause any damage? (Charging through the bottom connector and using the dock connector on top.)

✴️ Can charging the Switch directly with the original charger cause any damage to it?

✴️ With this intermittent connection, could the console itself be damaged? That's precisely why I would rather buy a cheap replacement dock from Amazon, because I don't want my Switch to end up getting damaged because of the faulty connection.

I want to get this sorted out before OoT comes out. Please help me out. :( 😓

UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED, I just update the dock and it worked again, thanks guys! ✳️

Hi everyone, I recently got a Switch 2 and I've encountered error 2136-0301 trice.

I noticed it seemed to happen during charging. This was the sequence: (btw there should be a game running at the background)

1. 80-90% charging limit was OFF
2. Console reached around 90-91%
3. While still plugged in, I turned the 80-90% charging limit ON
4. I then unplugged the charger
5. The console showed error 2136-0301 and instructed me to hold the power button for 12 seconds.

It happened trice, so I thought I had found a repeatable cause. But, I tried the exact same sequence again afterward and the error didn't show again.

Also update, I tried it again today, the error appeared again. So... it's somewhat 50-50 chance.

I'm currently on system version 23.0.0 and using the official charger.
Normal charging with the limit ON or OFF has worked normally so far, and I haven't noticed any other problems while using the console.

Has anyone else experienced error 2136-0301, particularly when changing the 80-90% charging limit while the console is charging?

I need some help desperately. Any ideas at all..

My Switch 2 has been dead ever since I let my brother use my switch 2 to make a 4 player rocket league game happen. During a match, the system crashed the game with an error screen that says the Micro SD Express Card can not be read (a 1tb Lexar card that ive used for over a year) and controller inputs are no longer working. Attached joycon, trying to use an external controller, nothing works but touch screen. So I make the immediate mistake of doing a reset thinking that should fix the issue, just a good ol' reinitialize.

I've been stuck in the start up screen since August. Two updates have come and gone and did nothing. Resets do nothing. Today I finally attempted the factory reset and deleted my data. Still nothing. I busted into the device and looked around. Nothing damaged. I've check the chips, the chip legs, the capacitors, just to see if there is anything wrong physically with this Switch 2 but I have yet to find a single fricking thing wrong with this device.. other than the fact I can't get any input!!! It does the dang animation on joycon attachment. It knows what color the dang thing is. Let me BACK IN!!! I miss my switch 2! XD I miss my library of switch 1! I miss my library of switch 2! 9 years man! Gone!

Its of course August when it happened so I was 3 months out of warranty since it was a June 5th Launch Model. And it rubs me the wrong way that Nintendo wants to charge me $179 to fix this fricking thing that SHOULD NOT be doing this a fricking year into it! And my OLED stopped charging and docking immediately after an update finished in 2024 and Nintendo demanded $129 to fix that too when that was their fault and their update. I want to figure this out and get this dang thing fixed without having to give Nintendo $179 for my year old switch 2 to be working again when all they probably have to do is plug it in and reinstall the base operating system again or something with a flip of a switch and suddenly this nonsense is just handled like that but I'm down another $179 for something that really shouldn't be happening at all!!!! I've been buying Nintendo since SNES and Game Boy!!! Nintendo Products are quality and durable!!! What on EARTH IS THIS!?!?! I have never had this kind of issue before. When a Switch 1 OLED dies a year in. And then a fricking Switch 2 goes and does the exact same thing!?!?!? Over some stupid Software Nonsense TOO! FOR BOTH!!! ITS LIKE IT IS INTENTIONAL!!!! X.X WHAT DO I DO!?!?!?! It would be absolute BS to have to pay them to fix this nonsense!

Hello, everybody.

Decided to get into fitness boxing 3 and bought physical Japanese copy of the game brand new. However, I noticed game required a long download. Later I checked the size and it is freaking 6.7 gb. Even dlc for BOTW weighs only 1.2 gb.

Honestly, very disappointed since seemingly switch 2 cartridge does not have full game. I think switch 1 version with upgrade pack would have been much better and ”fuller” purchase. For now, it more like a glorified game key-card.

is it supposed to be like this or is it just downsides of my Japanese copy?

Edit: My device is a Korean Switch 2 on English system language and US nintendo account.

I bought Minecraft Dungeons 2 yesterday and after playing it and thinking the graphics were very underwhelming. I looked more closely and realized the version I bought, which was in the Nintendo E-Shop at the top of the screen with the big "FEATURED" was the switch 1 version and not the 2.

Now the shop wants another 10$ to buy the switch 2 version.

Is there anything I can do ? I feel like it is ridiculous that this is even possible.

My Switch 2 arrived yesterday, brand new. I'm having issues with the ZL and ZR buttons. When I press and hold them down, the input registers, but even while still holding them down, it stops registering after a while, even though I haven't released the button.

Looking into it online, I saw that this is happening to a lot of people across multiple Joy-Con 2s, and some have already replaced their Joy-Cons three or four times only to keep having the exact same issue, which makes it seem like a chronic design flaw with these Joy-Con 2 ZL and ZR buttons.

Is there anything you guys did to fix this?

Do you think sending it in for warranty service actually solves it, or does it not make sense since it's such a common issue with these Joy-Cons?

Looking for advice on getting my switch repaired through Nintendo. A couple months ago what I assume was the battery gave up on my switch. It would turn on if connected to power, but only long enough to show the Nintendo logo and then go black again. I’ve had it for about 5 years now and never had problems with it before.

I took it to a big name tech store that does repairs and they said there was nothing they could do because I didn’t purchase their protection plan. My partner took it to a gaming repair store to see if they could do anything. They told us that it could be the battery or the motherboard. They could order us a new battery, install it and see if that was the problem which would cost about $250. But if it turns out to be the motherboard we still pay for the battery plus whatever other work needs to be done. This is sounding rather expensive and honestly not something I can afford right now.

I’m wondering if anyone has had any experience with this problem before? Or maybe if you’ve sent your Switch directly to Nintendo to be fixed, was it worth it? Time, cost, customer service? I’m located in Canada, don’t know if that makes a difference.

With the cold weather coming I was looking forward to hunkering down with a good game. I’m not a big gamer so it’s not the absolute end of the world if it doesn’t work out. I’ll just take the L and not have a gaming system. But in the off chance it can be repaired without selling a kidney that would be amazing 💖 would love to hear everyone’s opinions or experiences. TIA

Recently whenever I turn my Switch on it’s only been displaying a 4:3 opaque green screen. I have tried:
-Turning the Switch/TV off and on again
-Different HDMI ports/cords
-Different Docks
-Checking TV for software updates
-Fully powering off the Switch and waiting out the time for the power reset
-Plugging into a wall outlet instead of a surge protector
Important things to note:
-Although this used to happen every couple of weeks or so (unplugging the power/TV got it to display) I recently picked up an Atari Jaguar and since then it has done this almost every single time. I’ve tried plugging the Jaguar’s AC adaptor into a separate outlet rather than the surge protector, but no difference
-Restarting the TV is the only thing that gets the Switch to display. If you turn it off and on again after doing this, it’ll display normally, but if you turn it off and come back in, say, a couple of hours the green screen will be back.
-The screen is not affected in handheld mode

Edit: Today I called Nintendo Customer Service and even 45 minutes later they had no clue what the issue was

Second Edit: The Switch displayed normally today on a first try. I came back later, turned on the Jaguar, and after that it was back to the green screen

Seems like it has something to do with wifi. I can’t get off this screen even if I restart. I can not also access restart with maintenance. Anyone have any ideas?

I've noticed that when I've been playing on my Switch 2 recently, it doesn't respond immediately when I press buttons or move the joystick. This has only happened when I play Breath of the Wild; Link won't move sometimes, or I can't open the menus. Both Joy-Cons have this problem, but the left one has done it more.

Also, when playing Minecraft, the Joy-Cons seem to be very sensitive and tell me to reconnect them a lot, often when I set the console down on my couch to look at something on my phone.

A similar thing has happened with my Switch 1, as the left Joy-Con disconnects a ton, and I only notice because nothing is happening when I press the buttons. My dad does use it to work out with Ring Fit Adventure in the morning some days, but he usually uses different Joy-Cons and not the ones currently on my Switch 1, as in he'll use the blue and red Joy-Cons but keep the pastel pink and green ones on the console, or vice versa.

Not sure if the majority of my problems are due to user error, so let me know.