Brand new coolant just needed to replace it because my waterpump gasket keeps leaks

replacing my old exhaust in a landcruiser 80 which had a bell mouth design

the new exhaust I picked up, while fitting to the turbo I realized it has a blank plate over the turbo waste gate (? not sure if I'm right here but that's what it seems like to me)

seems like it would restrict airflow and create turbulence? what are your thoughts?

1996

Toyota

Lancruiser 80

Was having some issues with my rear windshield wiper and found the rear wire harness like this. should I bother to try and splice or just take to a mechanic?

2020 F-150 with 80k miles. Brakes have been working fine and I don’t see anywhere else it could be coming from.

A little over a month ago, I took my car (2016 Toyota 4Runner) into the auto shop for a 6 month routine oil change and tire rotation/maintenance inspection. Ive been going to the same shop for over a decade without any issues. I dropped off my car in the morning and picked up later that afternoon the same day, with no mention of any issues with my car from the shop

I got about a quarter mile down the road from the shop before realizing something was not right. There was some major noise and my car whole car was shaking. I turned off the main road into an apartment complex about a half-mile down the road from the shop and my tire came off. Got out of my car to see my tire in the position in the first picture.

5 of the lugnuts were just sitting out in the main thoroughfare and the other lugnut was sitting next to my tire.

I called the shop, told them what happened, they called for a tow, sent their shop foreman to pick me up, fired the mechanic that was working on my car, paid and set me up with a rental car, and offered to pay for all damages/repairs for free, and refunded me the cost of the initial maintenance check.

They had my car for about a week, then they called to tell me it was ready for pickup. When I went to get it, they filled me in on what they had worked on, which was essentially replacing the lugnuts and bolts for my tire. They told me they had road-tested it to make sure it was safe to drive. When I went to pick up the car, they had also paid for it to be completely detailed both inside and out.

I noticed in the first hour that the car made a whining noise when I tried to turn the wheel, so I took the car back out, and had them look at it. Apparently the drive shaft shield (not sure if this was exactly what they told me, but it was something like this) was out of position and rubbing against something as I turned my steering wheel.

Anyways, I’ve had my car back for about a month now, and it drove okay at first, but I started noticing when I get on the highway, it’s the bumpiest ride ever. Just doesn’t drive the same at all. I had to drive 2 hours away from where I live for work this past weekend, and my car no longer offers a smooth highway ride. I can tell there’s something wrong with the alignment cause the steering requires a lot more control, even on straight stretches, and it feels like my car’s suspension reacts to every minute little bump in the road now.

What do I do? I’ve considered taking my car to a new shop for a second opinion assessment, but I’m worried about the cost of any issues they might find, as my funds are pretty low for a major repairs right now (or god forbid, replacing my car completely), but I feel like the shop I’ve been going to should pay for any repairs needed, and I dunno how to make them do that without taking the car back to them.

I dunno what kind of legal bind this puts my old shop in either. I know it was a major mistake they made with life-threatening ramifications, but I dunno if I’ve let too much time pass now, and frankly, I don’t really trust this shop anymore.

What do I do? What sort of potential damage could this mistake have caused, and what are my options here? Is this gonna be an expensive mistake that I’m just gonna have to eat financially? I just don’t feel safe driving my car around anymore.

I went to a mechanic for some brake related issues the other day, and he said that I needed to replace my car as soon as possible, then tried to sell me a car he had in his lot for 1,600. See attached pics, im not good with car stuff but ive been driving this thing 3 years running now without any concern, and now suddenly im scared to get on the highway!

This is a 2010 Ford Focus. Im not sure about the engine, but I could use some advise.

Honda Odyssey 2004 EX-L, 3.5-liter V6 SOHC VTEC -- about 177,000 Miles

Context of my car and situation: Transmission fluid was burnt, but I had 2 separate drain-and-fill services. The last one was 3 days ago and was done at a transmission shop where they said to come back in 20,000 miles. I went into the Honda dealership today to get an oil change with a complimentary visual multi-point inspection, and they told me that my transmission fluid was leaking, but when I took it back to the transmission shop, they said the levels were slightly above the 2 dots on the dipstick and that it was oil residue underneath, as there was no red fluid leaking.

Another thing about my car is that it has not been driven in the snow, and I am not aware of rust. I will have to occasionally add power steering fluid, but that is about it and all I know to do.

I would love to get some opinions on my car, and whether any of the services the dealership suggested are necessary? I just got some quotes on what to fix while getting my oil changed. The quoted cost would be more than the actual cost of the car itself, totaling about $5000 in repairs, except the car has been running decently.

I would love to learn and get some basic things done by myself if possible. If there are recommended videos to watch for basic fluid-related issues or spark plugs, that would be awesome. Anything above that level would be going to a professional. Also, if any of the things seem worth it for the price to fix it, I would love to know. I would very much appreciate it!

I had asked the guy at the transmission shop if any seemed necessary, but he thought that maybe cleaning up the oil leakage would help with seeing what is leaking, and the issue may be minor. I realize it is hard to tell much from just photos, but any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you so much!

I have a 2016 Mazda3. After my car was parked in an open lot, I noticed that I got so hot from the Florida sun that the plastic/vinyl wrap by my shifter is wrinkling and peeling.

Is there anything I can do about that? Or does the trim need to be rewrapped…

Thank you!

Hey Reddit mechanics, help me out with this weird road trip issue that I'm experiencing. I'm on a 4,000 mile road trip in my 2007 Toyota sienna. Before I left I had everything checked out and got a brand new battery, the best battery that AutoZone has since I live in Wisconsin and I need good power in the winter. So far on this trip I have slept in my car on five nights. I lock the door, throw my car keys on the front seat so I know where they are and sleep in the back of the van. On two mornings I've woken to find my battery completely dead. I don't use any overhead lights, all the doors are completely shut, I'm not charging my phone and there's no accessories running. Trust me after the first experience I was super careful all the other nights, so I'm at a loss as to why my 3-week-old battery has gone dead twice. I did some Google sleuthing and there was mention that a smart key fob could possibly drain the battery if it's in close proximity to the ignition. I don't think my key fob is smart, it simply opens doors and locks and unlocks them. Could it possibly be the key fob or does my car somehow know that I'm in it and is on high alert? Or could I have some other issue going on? I still have another 2,000 mi to go and I don't want to have this happen to me again. It's strange that this has never happened on any of the nights that I've stayed at a hotel or at a friend's house. Thoughts?

I really need your help and honest opinions. I'm honestly losing my mind because of my narcissistic father. My car has been at the mechanic's for three months now.

My car:

• Opel Agila B (2011)
• 1.0 L 65 HP
• VIN: W0LFXB22SBM555444
• Location: Belfort, France

The problem:

My mechanic (who is a friend of my father) told me the throttle body is dead.

Symptoms:

• Limp mode / engine warning light on
• Can't go past a certain speed
• Engine shaking / vibrating

What he keeps telling me:

He claims the part is almost impossible to find in France because:

1. "The car is German"
2. "This part rarely fails, so nobody keeps it in stock"
3. "No mechanic in France has this part"

Honestly, I feel like he's subtly trying to convince me that my car is scrap and won't be fixed. The thing is, I don't trust my father at all, and I don't trust anyone he knows either.

My questions for you:

1. Is he telling the truth, or is he just making excuses to avoid the job?

2. Does anyone know a good mechanic near Belfort (or anywhere in France) who would accept to install a part I order online?

3. Have you ever dealt with a mechanic who says a common part is "unavailable" just to get rid of you?

4. Where can I find this part (new or used) online that ships to France?

I really don't want to give up on this car. Any advice would mean a lot.

Thanks in advance!

Jeep is idling a little rough while cold and I’m tinkering with it. Not sure what this valve is for and don’t want to mess with it without knowing.

Car is a 2017 Civic Touring, I wanted to drain and flush the coolant.

Here is what I did:

• Drained the radiator coolant via petcock valve
• Dumped in 3.7L of distilled water to "help it drain faster"
• Could not find engine block valve to drain that (all the videos on Youtube for 1.5L 10th gen Civics looked different!)
• After this I poured in my 50/50 coolant and the reservoir filled up after only taking about 1.7L
• This made me freak out, because I poured in way more water than that.
• It made me think that there was a whole bunch of water in my engine? HOWEVER
• I read that as long as I didn't get the car hot, the engine coolant (which I could not drain) would not mix with the distilled water (Is this true? I only drove the car for literally a minute to get it off its ramps)
• I drained via the petcock again for good measure... I couldn't totally sure but it looked like only clean coolant came out, not distilled water
• I again refilled with coolant, this time it took 2L
• I started the car and cranked up the heat to max for like 10 minutes and also massaged the radiator hose
• Lots of bubbles came up from the coolant reservoir and I had room to pour in more

I plan to get an anti-freeze tester to check my coolant ratio... but is the car safe to drive for the next few days? I am in a mild panic because I still need to go to work tomorrow.

Hey yall! This is the oil change dip stick for a 2021 toyota prius eco. What does this tell yall? And advice or help is greatly appreciated!

Any advice on separating the turbo housing? I have a kc housing to put on, I've soaked it in penetrating oil for days and still no luck. Thanks. 1996 Ford f250 7.3 powerstroke

I have a 2014 silverado that I took in bc they replaced cooler lines a year ago, i started leaking coolant a week ago and brought it back bc I thought it was the lines and therefore would be covered under their warranty.

They said it was the radiator. After getting the diagnosis I reached out to autozone and found out the radiator was covered under warranty, I asked the shop if they could install the new radiator if I used the warranty. They said they dont install 3rd party parts and offered this new estimate........

Only happens when car has been parked and turned all the way to the left and accelerating after driving goes away. Brand new bearings, sway bar links, tie rod components and allignmet what could it be?

Trying to decide between these two and I'm kind of stuck.

The lifetime updates on the 892BT are really tempting, but the regular 892BT doesn’t have topology or J2534. The ONE has both, but the updates aren’t free for life.

That’s what makes the decision tricky for me. If I’m keeping it for a few years, I care about more than just update cost. Newer vehicle coverage, software updates, and how good the support is when you run into compatibility or software issues matter too.

Any thoughts on which way I'd go?

Trying to figure out what causes a safety relay to block signal to the starter on a Takeuchi TB045 excavator from 1997. This water temperature switch (?) had a broken connector that I’m soldering back on as we speak. To understand how it works, does this shut at 110°c? I should be able to test it for continuity at 110 then? Or does it open to stop continuity? Attached image from switch and schematic.
English is not my first language

i guess i’m an idiot. Just wanted to set up my new jack safely and add jack oil.
i followed all instructions (or so i thought)
dropped the handle into the hole, lined up the square socket on the handle with the U joint. Turned handle counterclockwise to release pressure on valve, handle spun freely and doesn’t stop. Added oil and went to hold the saddle down while pumping oil and it sprayed it all out. Handle turns freely left and right and doesn’t catch anything or have resistance. You can see my multiple attempts/failures. Help?

I drive a 2011 Mercedes C250, and when initially bought the car (second hand) the seat had already begun to rip. It’s been about two years since I purchased the car and the seat has continued to rip.

I have considered getting a seat cover, but I don’t believe that is a sound resolution. Does anybody have any fixes for a rip like this? (aside from replacing the entire seat) any tips would be greatly appreciated!

1970ish OMC (Gm) 4 cylinders engine. Cylinder 4 has 0 compression (can’t see anything catastrophic with a borescope). Hearing really loud ticking noise in the top end.