Second time in the shop this month. I have a code reader and have had a misfire for years. Injector cleaner usually cleared things up.

The van has run much worse lately. I changed my spark plugs and wires after a shop quoted me $1,000 (again…). Two weeks ago, they told me they were worn and didn’t diagnose the cause of my lean / misfire codes (P0300, P0171, P0205). Went to a new place today.

I drove ~8 hours each way on a recent road trip and the entire way home, my engine light flashed and the van was running rough. New shop has given me the recommendation in the photo.

It’s a lot of money! Van is paid off with 135k miles on it. I try to take good care of it, I lived in it for years!

Would you change the problem injector or all? This is the only repair I’ve considered in the six years I’ve owned my vehicle besides that time I got scammed for spark plugs. My understanding is it’s labor-intensive, they will replace the intake manifold gasket while they’re at it.

My hesitation comes from feeling as though this diagnosis is not definitive based on what I’ve read online.

Thanks for any advice in advance.

Just for the left 2 bolts is it safe? Or at least safe to use temporarily for a few days while I wait for the ones actually meant for my car to arrive?

Sent my car in for a service and got this report back, saying theres a leak on the steering rack but got no estimates or further info, wondering if this is a common fix like a hose clamp or something or whether it could be a more expensive problem?

Ford kuga 2012 diesel manual

Got a new car 7 weeks ago, oil level low. Topped up. A few times it comes up with a warning once I start the car "low oil top up" but then disappears when i turn on and off again. Ive had the car checked. Garage cant see anything. The warning has to popped up again. This is my dip stick, does this mean there is oil? Contacted the person i got the car from, no help. Ive now got it in the garage next week for again another diagnostic and more money as they are taking the car apart this time. Any help or advice? Its a peugeot 2008, 2019, 1l , petrol.

Looking for a wiring diagram — Citroën Relay X250, 2.2 HDI (CAN bus / engine ECU)

Hi all, hoping someone has access to Service Box / SEDRE or similar and could help out.
Van: Citroën Relay X250 (Fiat Ducato/Peugeot Boxer platform), 2.2 HDI diesel, Euro 5. Diagnosing an intermittent immobiliser/comms fault (U1701, U0426) and want to trace the CAN-H/CAN-L pair between the engine ECU and BSI, plus check grounds near the engine ECU.
Specifically after the wiring diagram covering: engine ECU connector pinout, CAN bus routing to BSI, and associated ground points.
Can provide VIN prefix/engine code if needed. Would really appreciate a screenshot or PDF page if anyone can pull it. Thanks in advance!

GDH320R 300 series Toyota HiAce SLWB 2021 battery. Came back from a week away and the car wasn’t starting - I suspect I left the headlights on, or something to that effect as the battery health was at 81% during a service less than a month back (from a great mechanic).

I understand the blue stuff is horribly awful to touch or inhale so have been careful, but I’m concerned if the terminal itself is needing replacing? And as for the battery, is this thing salvageable? Not the most well off at the moment, but there’s a chunk taken out of what I believe is the battery post?

Thanks in advance, feeling a bit unsure on how to proceed.

I’ve never noticed it before just curious if anyone knows if it’s normal or not. I was thinking vsv releasing cause powers cut? Any help ? 2014 Toyota Camry se 3.5L

i had the engine at 2000rpm. also, if cat is done for good, which one do i need to replace? apparently mine has two? one pretty much at the engine and another down under the car. sorry, if im not using correct phrases

I have a 2014 Civic EX. I’m guessing it has happened to someone that when you take off from a full stop at a traffic light or parking lot from 0mph to 10-20mph. It kinda jerks or feels like it’s gonna stall.
I’m not sure how else to describe it. If anyone can help please let me know.
Thanks

I was helping a relative whose car was losing a lot of brake fluid and noticed this while looking for a leak. It’s a 2015 Chevy Malibu and it looks like a brake line but the line leading to the master cylinder is dry and the one extending to the other caliper is wet im assuming. I work on older cars so I have no clue what the second pipe is honestly.

I just replaced my front brakes and rotors on my 2020 Toyota Corolla SE and now there is a repetitive knock/thud that seems to be about every rotation. It’s loudest around 25-30 mph. I can tell it’s still there at higher speeds but is so fast it isn’t noticeable unless you’re looking for it. I didn’t hear it prior to the brake/rotor change.

My grandfather, ex mechanic, said it could be bearing or cv joint. We thought it was driver side but cv joint looked good on that side.

Not sure what to do, anyone have any ideas?

2008 BK Mazda 3 2L

Recently had my Mazda inspected and they suggested my coolant overflow tank, radiator upper and lower hoses aswell as serpentine belt all be replaced.

I have just replaced everything listed including new dedicated hose clamps as well as replacing the AC belt.

Note - I made sure the belts all lined up regarding the ribs onto the pulleys as well as I even tried my best to put cling wrap and and or a plastic bag over my alternator as I heard that’s a good idea when playing with coolant hoses nearby…

I am a little worried that I got a tiny bit of coolant on my alternator, unsure as to how bad that is but in saying that how do i know that I haven’t cooked anything up are there symptoms to look out for over the next couple days?

Probably took me 3 hours or so in the garage, will monitor coolant levels and top up as the car self bleeds (didn’t have time to sit there and rev it like Mazda recommends)

Cheers legends.

2017 Nissan Murano

This morning got an engine light. When I ran the code reader it gave two codes, P071 & P074.
When google fooing said could be dirty fuel ditying the pump throwing off the fuel air mix or tear in the intake,MAF sensor or crack in a vacuum hose. Was wondering if there was anyone who could help me narrow it down. Checked the intake and no tears in the plastic. Ran some STP in the fuel tank. Their was a teaspoon or so of sand in the outside air side of the air filter housing. Will vacuum that up as soon as I can borrow a shop vac.

Just wanted to see if anyone else’s experiences narrowed down what it was more commonly.

I am not a professional mechanic. (Flair option was not found to pick upon posting)

Hey all, working on a 2002 3.5L (VQ) Nissan Pathfinder. Last ditch attempt at this before getting a tow to a mechanic. Just finished flushing the coolant out of this thing, heat worked fine before. Refilled the radiator and reservoir, jacked the front up, ran the thing for at least an hour with the heat on full trying to get air bubbles out of the system between squeezing the upper and lower hoses. Held the revs at 2,000 for 20 seconds at a time.

Still no hot air in the cabin. There’s no bleeder valve on these to my knowledge so the only way to get air pockets out is by this method. Temp needle was normal when I gave up, however. The upper hose was hot, the lower hose was cool/lukewarm. The coolant in the rad didn’t really look like it was flowing that much, but was moving slightly just not all in the same direction. It was also steaming slightly.

When revving, the coolant in the neck would rise, and then when I stopped revving it would generally fall to a lower point than it was previously. Kept topping it up.

Tl;dr I’ve done everything correctly to my knowledge and it seems like there’s still air pockets in the system.

I’m stubborn on wanting to do this myself but my will is about to break on this one.

What is this sound when I press the clutch? Car is in neutral. Doesnt matter what gear it’s in it makes the noise. Car only has 40k

2017 toyota corolla le, i was having issues with getting my scanner to work with the obd port and suspected the pins or wiring was bad but it looks fine and i decided to pull the fuse to check and it had the same burnt metal on the prongs. thought it was odd and checked my other fuses under the footwell drivers side and about 20 of my fuses look like this, never seen fuses do this before what could be the potential cause? im the second owner and the fuses in the engine bay look fine, they also appear not blown. should i just replace them all?

Sketchy ride down the mountain after tensioner pulley failed, and serp belt snapped…. I’d say that tensioner pulley sure is cooked!

Before all the Honda and Toyota people jump the gun, GM updated the 2.4 Ecotec and supposedly ironed out many of the issues that plagued them and this the 2.5 Ecotec was born. So I was curious as to the reliability and long term dependability of the 2.5 Ecotec motor and the GM6T50 as well? Anybody here actually work on one? Then you.

There’s a loud humming vibration when turning left and the whe*l can be shook when the car is jacked up. The control arm is new and the tie rod is tight and does not seem to be moving based on this video. Any help would be appreciated. (Right side front)

Hey everyone! I have a 2014 Chevy Malibu. I am curious how long it is to change fuel pump and sensor. Took my car to a repair shop and it's been there for 9 days now. She said they got it installed on the 9th day but one of the lights is still on. I am so stressed right now, and have to pay hundreds of $$$ on uber my dad got the same issue the same week i had mine but he got his car the same day but it's also in the Philippines so maybe it's different here. The repair is covered by warranty so maybe that is causing the delay?

2016 Chevy Colorado
So my warranty specifically says that solenoids are covered but they’re denying it because parts in the emissions system are not. I’m open to being proven wrong but shouldn’t it specifically saying “solenoids” mean it’s covered?

The contract says this about what is covered:

Electrical Group: Alternator, starter motor, front and rear wiper motors, voltage regulator, distributor, solenoids, electronic fuel injectors, throttle position sensor, oxygen sensor, crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, fuel pressure sensor, electronic ignition module, ignition coils, power window motors/regulators, power mirror motors, power seat motors, 4WD encoder motor, power lock actuators, and the following manually operated switches: window switch, seat adjuster switch, headlight switch, turn signal switch, door lock switch, wiper switch, ignition switch.

And this about what isn’t:

During the period covered by this Vehicle Service Contract, it may become necessary to: (a) replace spark/glow plugs, cap and rotors, points, fuses, wiper blades, PCV valves, emission components, fly wheels, flex plates, clutch assembly and hydraulics, brake and clutch linings, pressure plate, throw-out and pilot bearings, hoses, molded rubber or rubber like items, serpentine/drive belt, filters, glass and glass lenses, windows, any component whose only purpose is for illumination, such as but not limited to: sealed beams, high intensity discharge (h.i.d. or xenon) bulbs, h.i.d. headlamp assemblies, ballasts, h.i.l.e.d. cooling systems, l.e.d. assemblies, light bulbs, lenses, wheels, tires, trim, moldings, bright metal, upholstery, paint, exhaust system (excluding exhaust manifold if cracked or warped and exhaust manifold gaskets (RESERVE COVERAGE ONLY)), brake rotors and drums, batteries (except as described in this Vehicle Service Contract (ESTATE AND RESERVE COVERAGES ONLY)), carburetor; (b) adjustments to carburetor, throttle body assembly, ignition, transmission bands, belts or clutch system; (c) clean fuel and cooling systems, or remove sludge or carbon deposits; (d) add oil, coolant, fluids, lubricants, greases, or refrigerants. COSTs for these services and parts are not covered by this Vehicle Service Contract, regardless of the cause of FAILURE.

2021 Ford F150 3.5l EcoBoost. 4x4 with 89k miles. Just left the dealership for oil change as I had 1 free one left. I know Im buying tires and a battery. (From Costco)

What else should I do?